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Ah, well, we won't laugh at these two to us ; so we beckon them to come into poor bears, with their sorrows before ; our carriage. After a quick flash of they will be mightily changed in a recognition from the four blue eyes, year's time, or I am mistaken!

guard is beckoned up to open the door. There is a group much more pleasant The saddles are taken up, and the two to contemplate. Two lanky, brown- brothers prepare to enter.

Guard obfaced, good-looking youths—the eldest jects that the saddles must go in the about eighteen, and evidently brothers luggage-van. Guard's suggestion is re-are standing side by side, alike in face, ceived with lofty scorn. Elder brother figure, and dress; one is an inch longer demands of guard whether he (guard) than the other, but it is impossible to thinks him such a fool as to shy a thirtell them apart.

They are not bad teen-guinea saddle into the luggage-van, specimens of Australian youth before and have everybody else's luggage piled the flood (of gold); and, as being charac- atop of it. Younger brother suggests teristic, I will take notice of them in that they shall go in the luggage-van lieu of giving you statistics about the themselves, and take care of their returns per share of the railway ; about saddlery. Guard submits that the sadwhich the less that is said the better. dles will annoy the other passengers. They are dressed in breeches and boots, His honour, the judge, without raising in brilliant-patterned flannel shirts of his eyes from the foolscap sheet he is the same pattern, in white coats of ex- reading at the other end of the carriage, pensive material, with loosely-tied blue says, in a throaty voice, as if he was handkerchiefs round their necks, and summing up, that if the young gentlecabbage-tree hats on their heads. Each men don't bring their saddles in he one has in his hand a stock-whip, some shall leave the carriage. So the valufourteen feet long, and there lies at the able property is stowed away somehow, feet of each a saddle and bridle. They and we are once more locked up. stand side by side silent. They have All this waiting about is altered now. that patient, stolid look, which arises Then there was but one line of rails, from an utter absence of care, and from, and an accident every day; now the let us say, not too much education. trains run, I understand, with wonderLook at the contrast they make to that ful punctuality. At this time we waited lawyer, fuming up and down the plat- nearly an hour altogether; but, being form, audibly cross-examining imaginary men of contented disposition, did not witnesses as to when the dawdling, get very much bored. The lawyer aforejolter-headed idiots, are going to start mentioned was enough to amuse one this lumbering train of theirs. Would for a time. This leading counsel and all the gold in Ballarat induce him to M.L.C. grew more impatient as the stand as quiet and unheeding as those time went on, and at last, having drawn two lads have done for half an hour ? the station-master out of his private He could not do it. But our two bro- office as a terrier draws a badger, he so thers, they are in no hurry, bless you. bullied and aggravated that peaceable They ain't hungry or thirsty, or too hot man that he retired into his house in or too cold, or tired with standing ; they high wrath, sending this Parthian arrow have plenty of money, and an easy at the lawyer: “If I thought there round of duties, easily performed. They “ were half-a-dozen such aggravating would as soon be there as elsewhere. chaps as you in the train, I'd start They have never-oh, my pale friends, “ her immediately, and have you all who are going into the schools next “ smashed to punk ashes against the term to try for a first- they have "goods before you'd gone ten miles.” never tasted of the tree of knowledge. A train comes sliding in alongside of Think and say, would you change with us, and then off we go. Past the battery them ?

and the lighthouse, away on to the “The plain is grassy, wild and bare, tumble on board as fast as we can, and Wide and wild, and open to the air." find that our driver is inclined to attri

bute the lateness of the train to a morbid On every side a wide stretch of grey wish on the part of his passengers to grass, with here and there a belt of dark make themselves disagreeable to their timber, seen miles off, making capes and driver. This very much embittered the islands in the sea of herbage. A piece relations between the ten passengers of country quite unlike anything one can on the one hand, and the driver on the see in England. Here and there is a other. The latter, indeed, was the most lonely station, apparently built for the conceited and sulky I ever met among accommodation of the one public-house his very sulky and conceited class. which stands about one hundred yards At length all was ready, the horses off, the only house in sight. Here two were standing immoveable, the driver farmers get out (one of whom has lost settled himself firmly, and said—“Ho !” his luggage), and two get in (one of With one mad bound the four horses whom is drunk, through having waited sprang forward together, one of the too long at the public-house for the leaders fairly standing on his hind legs. train). Here also the station-master Three more fierce plunges, and the coach holds a conversation with the guard on was fairly under weigh, and the four the most personal and private matters, bays were cantering through the shabby every word of which is perfectly audible suburbs of the town. to the whole train, and highly interest- One remarks principally that the ing. And then on we go again.

houses are of one storey, of wood and A pretty blue peaked mountain right iron, and that the population don't comb before us; the mountain grows bigger their hair, and keep many goats, who and bigger, and at length, racing along have no visible means of subsistence. under its hanging woods and granite Now the streets get handsomer, and the crags, we find that the long-drawn bay shops exhibit more plate glass ; now on our left is narrowing up, and that passing through a handsome street, with the end of our journey is near. Then some fine stone houses, and seeing we see a great town (thirty thousand glimpses of the bright blue sea down inhabitants) built of wood, painted white, lanes, we pull up suddenly in a handof red brick and grey stone, with one or some enough market square, with a sintwo spires, and a great iron clock-tower. gularly pretty clock-tower in the centre. Then the train stops ; we have come There is a pause for a moment at the thirty miles, and we are in Geelong. post-office; and then, before we have

There was no time then to notice time to think of where we are, we are what we had been enabled to notice on up the street, up the hill, on to the former occasions—that the Geelong ter- breezy down, with a long black road minus was a handsome and commodious stretching indefinitely before us. building, in a suburb of the second There is a noble view beneath us city in Victoria, in the port of Great now. As we look back, a circular bay, Ballarat; no time for that now. There intensely blue, with a shore of white stands before the gateway of the station sand ; a white town, pretty enough at a coach like a cricket-drag, with an this distance; two piers with shipping, awning of black leather, and curtains of and a peaked mountain rising from the the same. It holds about ten people, is sea on the left—as like, I suspect, to drawn by four splendid horses, and is Naples and Vesuvius as two peas. The driven by a very large, very fresh- myrtle-like shrubs which fringe the

a coloured, and very handsome Yankee, shore, and the trim white villas peeping who is now standing up on his box, and out from among them, carry out the idea roaring in a voice half sulky, half frantic, amazingly, until the eye catches a tall “Now then here, now then, all aboard for red chimney-stack or two, and watches a Ballarat. All aboard for Ballarat.” We little cloud of steam flying above the


line miles away, and then we know that and his neighbour the Irishman kept us we are not, indeed, looking at a scene alive for a mile or two by various antics, of Italian laziness, but on a good, honest, while a Scotchman looked on approvthriving, busy English town.

ingly, and took snuff, and a German Now the whole scene has dipped down smoked and dozed. below the hill, and we are looking in- Such were our companions. As for land over some wooded hills, with a the scenery we were passing through, noble, vast stretch of corn-land, dairy- or the road we were travelling on, the farm, and vineyards on the left. The less that is said of either the better. It road goes straight as a line, apparently is hard for an Englishman to imagine without a break; and we think it looks a forest which is in every respect dreary level enough until we come to a grand and hideous; yet such is the case with precipitous ravine, about five hundred the stunted belt of honeysuckle forest feet deep, and at the bottom a little river, which generally makes its appearance fringed with green trees, and a pretty between the sea and the mountains, village, with a public-house or two, and which must be crossed before one gets a blacksmith's shop.

into the beautiful glades and valleys We travelled fast, and were soon up among the quartz ranges. Travellers the hill, through the wood, and away are very apt to condemn Australian over the plains again-long weary yellow woods wholesale, by their first impresstretches of grass, bounded by dull sions of them from the dreary she-oaks she-oak woods, with one shabby inn by and honeysuckles near the coast-forthe roadside, visible for miles—the ex- getting that afterwards, they saw a little ternal prospect being so dull that we farther in the interior forests more turned to look at our fellow passengers. majestic, ay, and more beautiful in their There were six in our compartment ; way, though thin in foliage, than it let us see what they were like. A tole- will be easy to find in more than a few rably cosmopolitan collection, upon my

places in England. But whoever says word. My vis-à-vis was a Chinaman, with that a honeysuckle forest is beautiful a round, smooth, beardless face, display- deserves to live in one for the rest of ing no trace of human emotion or in- his life. It consists of mile beyond telligence—not unlike a cocoa-nut from mile of miserable clay-land, far too rotwhich the hair has been removed. He ten and uneven to walk over with comwas dressed in the height of European fort. Its only herbage is sparse worthdandyism, save that he wore over all a less tussock-grass ; its only timber very tunic of sky-blue watered silk. He like unhappy old apple-trees after a gale goggled his eyes, and looked at no- of wind. thing. He did not look out of the And the road through this aforesaid window, or at me, or at the bottom of honeysuckle forest? Well, it is a rethe carriage-he looked nowhere. He markable provision of nature that the had just come back from some villanous road (unless macadamised) is so unutterexpedition in town, and I have no doubt ably bad that it quite takes off your had a cool hundred or two stowed about attention from the scenery around you him for travelling expenses,

Next to —one continual bump, thump, crash; him sat a big-chested, black-haired, crash, thump, bump. Every instant you handsome man, whom we knew. He are lifted off the seat four inches, and was a French baker on a large scale ; let down again (no cushions, mind you), and his mission seemed to be to make as if you were playing at see-saw, and himself agreeable-which he did, setting the other boy had slid off just when you us all talking to one another, save the were at your highest. Your head is surly driver and the Chinaman. He shaken till you fear fracture of the base tried his hand on coachman too; but, of the skull. The creak, jump, jolt of only getting an oath for his pains, he the vehicle begins to form itself into a desisted, with a shrug ; after which, he tune from its monotony (say the Bay of


Biscay or Old Robin Grey), until some ment, and are returning. As I speak, more agonising crash than usual makes we meet a wool-dray, piled to a danyou wickedly hope for an upset, that gerous height with the wool-bales, and you may get a quiet walk in peace for a threatening each instant to topple over, mile or two.

which threat it religiously fulfils about No such luck; the driver goes head

every fifty miles. long forward, with whip, and voice-a Now we overtake a long file of Chinaman of one idea—to do it as quickly as men, just landed, all in their native possible. “Jerry, Jerry, jo; snap (from dress, dusky-looking blue smocks, loose the whip). Jerry, hi. Snap, snap. Blank, drawers of the same, and hats like Indian blank, your blank, blank.” This last to pagodas. They are carrying their worldly his horses. I cannot render it here. goods over their shoulders, on bamboos, Then snap, snap again. A dead fix, and as in the willow-pattern plate; and as we dream foolishly of getting out and they pass, to my astonishment, my walking. Nnnioi. He is only gathering goggle-eyed Chinese vis-à-vis wakes up, his horses together for a rush. Then puts his head out of where the window the original Ho! and we are all right should be, and makes a noise like a door again, going along at full gallop.

with rusty hinges, but ten times as loud. The horrible discomfort of our pre- He is replied to by the head man of the sent mode of transit would render it travelling Chinamen in a sound as totally impossible for any one who had though one were playing a hurdy-gurdy not been this road before to make any ob- under the bed-clothes. Our Chinaman servations, whether general or particular, draws his head back, and looks round on the immense amount and variety of upon his fellow-travellers with the air traffic which we are meeting and over- of one who has said something rather taking. We, however, who have in clever, he believes ; and before I have times heretofore, jogged leisurely along time to ask him, angrily, what the deuce the road on horseback—we, I say, can he means by making that noise before a give some sort of idea of what this gentleman, I see something which puts hideous phantasmagoria of men, horses, Chinamen, out of my head altogether. drays, women, and children, which, to A dray is upset by the roadside, us, in our headlong course, appear to evidently the dray of a newly-arrived be tumbling head over heels and mak- emigrant, and all the poor little houseing faces at us, would appear to some hold gods are scattered about in the happier traveller who has not bartered dirt. Poor old granny is sitting by the comfort, safety, and money for mere roadside, looking scared and wringing speed.

her hands, while the young mother is In one place a string of empty drays engaged half in watching her husband passes us going towards the town, each

among the struggling horses, and half drawn by two horses, very similar in in trying to soothe the baby by her breed and make to inferior English breast. She has had a sad cut, poor hunters (for your heavy dray-horse, your soul, I can see by her crumpled bonnet; Barclay and Perkins, would soon bog and she looks pale and wild, but brave himself in these heavy roads). Then, withal. A girl about fourteen is nursagain, we overtake a long caravan of ing and quieting a child of six, while a loaded horse-drays toiling wearily up boy of ten helps his father. There is country with loads of all conceivable the bonnet-box, crushed flat by the hair sorts of merchandise ; and immediately trunk. Alas ! for the poor Sunday bonafterwards, a caravan of bullock-drays, net inside, brought with such proud each drawn by eight oxen apiece, going care so many miles, the last memento of the same way with ourselves, yet empty. happy summer church-goings in EngHow is this? say you, why thus. These land. Poor bonnet ! becoming poetical bullock-drays belong to the settlers, and only in thy destruction! There, too, the have been carrying down wool for ship- box with the few poor books has burst

Two or


open, and “The Iarmer of Englewood But at a place called Burat-bridge, I Forest” and “Fatherless Fanny” are in woke

up for good; for in that place the the mud with their old friend and com- plank road begins, and from that place panion, the fiddle. God speed you, my the troubles of the traveller into Ballarat poor friends ;

be brave and careful, and end. The road is of wooden planks, the worst will soon be over. A twelve- laid crosswise, and the coach runs as month hence you shall be sitting by the on a railway. This is an Ameriean infireside laughing at all these mishaps vention. Let me do the Americans and annoyances, bitter as they are now, full justice. In spite of the bad and

If this purgatory of jolting continues “ wooden nutmeg” quality of ninemuch longer, a crisis must supervene

tenths of their importations, they have death, probably, or insanity.

taught the Victorians one invaluable three thousand years ago, as near as I

lesson-how to travel with speed over can compute, there was a short cessation rough bush roads. Their double-ended of it—a dream, as of being taken into Collins' picks, too, are more useful and an inn and having a dinner, and seeing handy than any imported from home. the Chinaman eat with his knife and his We dash on through the darkening fingers, dismissing his fork from office glades of a beautiful forest, the topmost without pension ; but since then things boughs overhead growing more and more have been worse than ever; and now a golden under the slanting rays of the change is coming over me. I must be sinking sun. As the tallest feathery bough going mad. That Chinaman's head is begins to lose the light, and the magpie, no more fixed on his shoulders than

most glorious of song-birds, croons out King Charles the First's. He has got a his

vespers, I lean out of the coach to joint in his neck like those nodding feast my eyes on a sight which, though papier maché mandarins we used to often


has never palled upon mehave at home. How I should like to one of the most beautiful mountains in knock his head off, only I am so sleepy. the world, Mount Buninyong. It is the Ah! that is it; before I have time to extreme southern lip of a great volcanic think about it, I am asleep.

crater, which runs up suddenly near a I woke whenever we changed horses thousand feet above the road, covered at a country township, and saw the same from the dark base to where the topsight everywhere,--two or three large most trees stand, feathering up against wooden hotels, with a few travellers the crimson west, with some of the loitering about in the verandahs, un- largest timber in the world. Northwilling to shoulder their heavy bundles wards, and towards Ballarat, the lava has and proceed. A drunken man dragged burst down the rim of the cup on all out and lying prone by the door, with sides, pouring in bands from forty to his patient dog waiting till he should sixty feet thick over the gold-beds, to arouse himself and come home. The the everlasting confusion of miners; but blacksmith's shop, with its lot of gossip- at the south end it stands up still as ing idlers. The store, or village shop, abrupt and lofty as it did when all the with the proprietor at his door, with his fertile country was a fiery desert—when hands in his pockets ; half-a-dozen houses the internal fires were vitrifying every around, little wooden farmhouses like seam in the slate-rock, and sublimating toys, standing just inside the three- its vapour into gold. railed fence, which inclosed the 80, Buninyong. Three large hotels, and 160, or 640 acre lots belonging to them; a blacksmith's shop. A stoppage. A and around and beyond all the forest, drunken man, who is anxious to fight now composed of Eucalypti (box and any man in the coach for half-a-crown. stringy bark here), and infinitely more The return gold escort from Geelong ; heautiful than the miserable Banksia ten troopers, in scarlet shirts, white forest on which we poured the vials of breeches, and helmets ; two carts, driven our wrath,

tandem, and an officer in a blue cloak,

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