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JANUARY, 1812.


No. 1 --PROMENADE COSTUME. with a narrow border of light green ribband, An high dress of tartan plaid, made of and trimmed at each point with a small green sarsnet or Merino crape, trimmed round the

tassel. Petticoat of white satin, spangled bottom with white swansdown, and two rows with gold ; trimmed at the bottom with narof the same down the front, alternately re row lace, and a border of green ribband. Small lieved by a narrow silk cord in loops, and || Angouleme tippet, surrounded with a full buttons of a bright nakara colour, with a belt plaiting of fine net. The sleeves short, with to correspond. A mantle of dark Clarence || points from the cymar to correspond wi the blue Merino clotb, made with half-sleeves of drapery of the skirt. The hair tastefully dress. sarsnet, lined with amber sursnet, and trim ed in ringlets round the face, confined by a med with swansdown ; Scottish cap of the || broad plait, above wbich is gracefully twisted same, with a trimming of swansdown next the a white lace handkerchief, d-la-Turque, emface, and a full puffing of plaid ribband, to an broidered with gold, and brought down in two swer the dress, above it. A plume of Clarence points, ornamented with tassels of gold on the blue feathers tipped with amber. Gloves of left side. A full blown damask rose in front. York tan, and half-boots of Clarence blue kid, Diamond earrings in the form of a cresceut; laced with nakara.

white kid gloves ; wbite satin slippers, bound

with green, and green rosettes. Over this No. 2-EVENING COSTUME.

dress is sometimes worn a slight drapery of the A white or pearl colour gossamer satin gown,

shawl kind, of white and amber, drawn carewith a demi-train; fancy apron of the same;

lessly through the cestus, which is of black the bottom of the gown and round the apron velvet, clasped with gold. trimmed with a rich gold fringe of the Bran. denburgh kind. A cap in the Persian form,

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS of white satin, with ornaments of gold to cor

ON respond with the dress; two gold tassels de

FASHION AND DRESS. pending over the left ear, and the same side the head is adorned with a plume of white

To supply the place of Summer's flowery ostrich feathers, and one light gold sprig. I tribes, now entirely faded, Fashion spreads Small earrings of pearl, with a solitaire neck her variegated mantle of brilliant hue over the lace of the same: the sleeves very short, fas

sombre garb of Winter; and the eye, dazzled tened up in front, with gold button and loop: by its refulgent versatility, is often at a loss to the belt the same colour as the gown, with a

decide which colour or form is most prevalent. superb gold ornament in front. White and London, the grand focus which attracts the gold fan; kid gloves; and white satin Italian

votaries of this changeful power, is peculiarly slippers fringed with gold.

indebted to short days, keen frosts, and fogs,

for her presence, who, ever attendant on beauNo.3FANCY BALL DRESS.

ty, flies after her from the cheerless view of A willow-green satin cymar, made close to the shivering heath, the bare trees stretching the shape, and hanging in pointed drapery out their withered arms towards the relentless over a three quarters dress of white crape, em. heavens, and the blooming treasures of Flora broidered with small sprigs of green and gold; leveled with the dust. bottom of the crape dress trimmed with a Like the uncertainty of our climate, so are broad vandyke lace; each division ornamented the laws of fashion; and every month affords

dress ;

something new in our records. But we are bebiud, in the slip style. Silk gowns are much glad to see that those sensible pelisses made worn with velvet bodies; and trains or demi. close in the wr:pping kind, seem again to be trains are worn at all eveuing parties. Embroi. very prevalent; though they are different from dered crape is now a favourite article for full those worn last winter, by the addition of a and a few fancy balls bave, according to tasteful cape, trimmed with a rich tassel the example of the elegancies of Phænix Park, fringe : this kind of pelisse is made of fine been given in this country; nothing can so add Merino cloth, chiefly of faou colour, aud to the brilliant coup æil of a ball room, as trimmed with purple velvet or swansdown. seeing every lady dressed by the tasteful hand Equally in favour with these, for out-door of fancy; thus the splendour and variety of the costume, is the Geramb mantle, with an under Dublin balls will ever be superior to ours; for spenser of the same; this manile is of various there, at a fancy ball, every lady appears in a colours, in velvet or fine Merino cloth : the different character; some in the ancient cos. most prevailing are black velvet or scarlet tuine of Persepolis, others as fairies, without cloth; but they should be invariably trimmed having their native beauty concealed by a with tine sable, and work crossed over the mask. We have given a specimen of one of bosom on one side, and the other thrown these elegant fancy dresses in this Number, gracefully over the shoulder.

which seems intended for the Grace Aglaia. Muffs of all kinds seem to be universal; but White crape, with embroidery of silver lilies i he most elegant are those of fine swansdown, round the bottom, and white satin body trimchinchilla, and the pale fox. Pellerines are now med with fine lace round the bosom, is an ele. getting, by their generality, almost 100 com- l gant article for young ladies, and has been mon for the refined taste of our elegantes of adopted in a few of the higher circles ; by the high ton, and the round tippet of swans more mature, black velvet is much worv, with down or chinchilla is much more in favour. coral or cornelian ornaments ; and a bunch of

Tbe Persian cap, chiefly of a lead colour, / winter cherries made of coral, placed on one with gold band and tassel, is much worn by side the head; black satin also is adopied by our dashing belles of equestrian notoriety, and those who can make a rich display of diaappears to be almost universally adopted as monds, and the gown is made iu the Mary the barouch tte and curricle costume. Much Queen of Scots' style, trimmed round the more becoming and feminine is the Walla. breast with a broad white Vandyke lace. For chian cap, made of dark sable, with a round receiving parties at home, Merino cloth, tippet of the same ; and ruby velvet pelisse | Merino crape, and Irish poplin, seem most trimmed with the same costly and warm ma prevalent ; but few are made quite high in the terial : this dress bids fair to be a reigning fa- | neck, except for merely family parties. The vourite this winter, and is peculiarly becom. | moroing dresses are chiefly made of corded ing a good complexion; and where shall we muslin in cambric. Some ladies wear scarlet find a finer association of red and white cloth dresses, trimmed with gold, with a loose than that which animates the countenance of sacerdotal sleeve of white satin; but white a lovely Englisbwoman? The modest straw and gold is the most chaste and elegant coshat is still worn by those who are fond of tume now in reqnisiton. walking, and who wish to make a retired ap There is but little alteration in articles of pearance; a simple geranium, a damask rose, jewellery this month, only that brooches scem or a fine clove carnation, generally of the to be losing favour. The higher circles wear variegated kind, is just apparent underneath, much the Maltese cross, made of brilliants, as and a veil of the richest texture, either black an ornament for the neck; and all diamonds, or white, is tbrowa over the whole.

to add to their brilliancy, should now be woro The gowns, except for full dress, are made | irradiated.-Such are the ordinances of Fa. extremely plain. Silks and coloured maslins | sbion! She is said to be the sister of Luxury; bave succeeded to white (which is now scarcely but she enriches the artist, she encourages bis ever worn but on a morning); they are laced ! invention; and we may venture to say, that

more are fed and clothed in her service, thap in bed is a swan, with a silver collar, holding up any other in the world: let us then never with bis bill a canopied curtain, embroidered depreciate so munificent a power! Macao with white roses and half shut poppies. stoves seem again coming in favour ; they will be prized for their scarcity; and they are THE MIRROR OF FASHION. a chaste and modest ornament,when worn with

In a series of Letters from a Gentleman of rank ibe favourite Vanilla brown dress.

and taste, to a Lady of Quality. Caps of various kinds have made their ap

LETTER VI. pearance ibis winter, chiefly of satin, or satin interwoven with crape ; the favourite forms are MY DEAR MADAM!-A certain English the Persian and the Mary Queen of Scots ; the hero said, “ Give me the writing of all the former ornameuted with gold and feathers; the ballads for the people of England, and let who other more simple ; with a fine narrow border will be their lawgiver!"-In the same spirit I of lace, or a row of beads. Some caps of very

would say, “Let me introduce what foreign costly texture, but yet of the most simple kind fashions I please amongst the gentry of any are also worn in half-dress; some of them kingdom, and let who will be their general, I bave very high sounding titles; as the Arethu will subdue, and make them my subjects." sian mob, the Nuremberg night-cap, and the Experience will give full proof of my inilucSicilian handkerchief ; but as it totally depends | tion. Will your Ladyship pardon a political on the taste of the lady who wears them in remark in a treatise on fashion ?-Yes, because putting on these nondescript articles, we can it lays before the feet of that charning idol of not pretend to judge whether they are univer the fair, not only thenselves, but princes, sally becoming or not; we prefer the head- kings, and empires! Tbere is comfort in dress of native hair for youth, which is still vassalage, when such a goodly company conworn in an elegant and simple style, and as it sent to wear the same chains.-But to my is the ornament of nature, so it will never proof. cease to please.

The complete subversion of the Saxon goDark winter flowers, with gossamer feathers, | vernment, which almost immediately followed were the prevailing ornaments for the head; the establishment of the Normans in England, and for an healthy juvenile complexion, a would not have been so easily effected, bad group of variegated geranium leaves, made to not an idea of a certain superiority in the fall lightly over each other, without the Normaus been facilitated by the innovations Howers, are a very becoming ornament, and || previously introduced by Edward the Conhighly appropriate to the season.

fessor. During the long sojurn of that prince Half bools of various coloured kid, laced in Normandy, he imbibed a great partiality in with a ribband to suit the colour of the boot, | favour of the dress and manners of that counbut not of ihe same, are universally worn of try; and upon bis accession to the throne of a morning: the Roman sandal of an evening | England, he assumed them himself. His exis exploded for the more elegant little slipper, ample was followed by the nobility: and as of the Italian kiud, with the heel entirely flat :

the fashions of the great are usually adopted these are of white satin plaid, and Vanilla by the lower ranks, the people became Nor. brown silk, with white bugle, or other fancy mans in dress and manners, before they were rosettes.

so by conquest. They put on the livery of The prevailing colours are slate-colour, wil the tyrant, and it is not to be wondered at low-green, amber, geranium, Vanilla-brown, that he came to claim his slaves. and tartan plaid.

But we will forget the rugged part of the Amongst some elegant arrangements making || scene, and turn to the gayer prospect. The at a very great boust, we bear there is a bed || splendour of victory, the graces and fashions of a most superb description; it is ornamented of its heroesand heroines of course, in the with gilt and bronze cameos, representing se right spirit of gallantry, I must add. veral allegorical subjects : on the roof of the The Normans, who were the military con.

querors, and the Flemings, their assis'ants by, and finely worked with wrought silks. Then the arts of science, who accompanied the came the surcuat, of the finest materials, with triumphant William into England, are said, by | sbort sleeves, and a train that swept the ancient historians, to have been remarkable ground. This robe was fastened round the for the beauty and elegance of their persons. middle by the girdle. And this appendage to This striking exterior, they rendered still more the dress was sometimes of sufficient costliimposing by an extraordinary study at the ness to ruin a poor husband. toilet, and magnificence of dress.

The mantle was of a variety of shapes; long, The men, in the succeeding reign, forgetting short, oval, square, &c. but in all it was loaded that their fathers had gained the kingdom by | with; and often trailed so far on subjecting their bodies to the rougb attire of the ground that it was necessary for one or helmet and coat of mail, affected a miucing two little boys to be always in attendance, to gail, and Aowing embroider d raiment; and raise it from the earth, and prevent injury to seemed to pride themselves in nothing so its fine or gorgeous fabric. much as an effeminate air and habit. At least The hair of the ladies was worn parted in such is the testimony of old Malmesbury; and front, in the Madona style, but depending to he knew them well enough not to be an un. a vast length bebiud, where it is coiled in two faithful witness.

Chinese plaits d-la-Chinois, terminated by a The ladies would not be left in the sbade, | clustre of curls. The head ornaments were while their Anglo-Norman beaux were costly diadems, circles of gold, and tiaras of hausted by all the caprices of fashion, and a gems and embroidery. These were not us. few hints will shew your Ladyship a pretty frequently half obscured by the veil, which, in shining specimen of their excursive fancy. some instances, was open in frout so as to

Their under garment was the only part of || discover not only the head tire, but the emthe Saxon habit they retained in its pristine broidered colours of the gown and mantle. At simplicity. The gown (which was the next other times it concealed the neck, with the covering to the under-garment,) was upper part of the bosom; and again bung lox wide, more flowing, and more decorated with on the one side, with the other thrown back embroidery and precious stones, than ever had on the shoulder. Thus was the most snowy been known in the preceding reigns. The bosom, the most faultless form, entirely consleeves were very ample, and terminating at cealed from the prying eye of admiration. the bottom in a kind of pocket; was as ele And having veiled the beauties of my lovely gant, and much resembled the sleeve of a

Anglo-Norman, I will leave her tete-a-tete with Turkish caftan.

her sister vestals; and thus, fairest of ber Some of the sprucest of the belles confined descendants! I take a temporary leave of you their gown to their waists by means of a bolh.--Your devoted bodice; something like the French stays of

PARIS, tbe last century. It was laced in the front,





of Cooke to America. The progress of a Man

of the World is conducted pretty much upon COVENT-GARDEN.

the same level of morality in every quarter of The Man of the World -On Dec. 6, a gentle the globe; and we bave little doubt but Cooke's man of the name of Grant undertook the part Sir Pertinax has been as warmly applauded in of Sir Pertinax Macsycophant, in the comedy of America as in London. With respect to this The Man of the World.—This character has play, divested of Cooke's acting, it is perfectly heen laid upon the shelf since the departure I contemptible-It is a coarse vulgar libel upon


Courts and Ministers; There is no gaiety in its ,ing face. His accent is very good, and his abuse, aor strength in its invective. The shaft voice powerful; but he bas lite merriment is not launched from a vigorous arm, but the or laugh-the dialogue will not tell without venom eats its way, and prevails by the mere the actor, and where the dialogue does not asdint of its malignity. It has been often ob- || sist him, Mr. Grant can do little to assist bimserved, lbat it is easy to gain attention, when a self; the gaiety and mirth of Cooke gave a man goes about to tell the people they are ill point to th humour, and a bustle to the part, governed, and to complain of Courts and Mini- || which kept up a constant attention the very sters- Is it not very much so with this play? | wardness and rigour of bis manner were bere It is full of sauciness and scurrility, which of use; it gave a bitterness to bis sarcasm, some people mistake for satire. Being ad- and an edge to his sneer; it served to do play dressed, however, to the bad passions, and the insincerity of his cringe, and the violence set off in the language of abuse (which all can done to a domineering nature, when be supunderstand, and most can write) it prevails || plicated for the interests of his pride.-Mr. without the assistance of elegance and wit, Grant was too dry; he wanted both force and and is a favourite with all who enjoy a momen

mellowness; he was not jocular por overbeartary triumph at the degradation, even in a ing; he could not smile like a sycophant, nor play, of those whom the just order of things laugh with condescension. lo a word, he has set above their heads. With respect to may be a good actor, and he seems a map of public men, and public life, the field is ample, talent, but Sir Pertinax must keep till Cooke's the target is of wide margin and a broad circumference, and a writer, of moderate aim, who can emancipate himself from decency,

HAYMARKET. though he may not hit the bull's eye, will ne SINGULARITIES OF MR. COATES. --Tbis ver wholly miss his mark.

extraordinary genius on Moud.y, Dec. 9, exhiCooke's performance of Sir Pertinar, in which bited himself fir the entertainmnt of the all the rau cour of its author was concocted, || Cockneys, at the Haymarket Theatre. His bad every excellence of which the character

name did not appear in the bills, but the was capable.—The Scotch accent bad a breadtb | descrip ion gived of bim, as the Amateur of and depth in his pronunciation which we ue. Fashion who played Romeo at Richinond, was ver saw in any other performer. There was a sufficiently well understood, and at an early matchless dissimulation in bis sycophancy, hour the Theatre was crowded in every part. aud a stern impudence in his pride. His self There were comparatively very few Ladies in ish sneer, the timid warmila of his ambition, the house, and most of the Gentlemen who coiling round the eminence which it did yot gave their attendance on this occasion, gave dare openly to aspire to; the inflexible cold early proofs of their beieg possessed of tolerness of his feelings; and the jealous caution | ably good lungs. They exerted themselves in of his wordly policy; and, above every thing, a variety of ways before the commencement of the overacted cordiality, the uncandid smile, ll the performance, to the infinite amusement of and the boisterous insincerity of bis laugh; each oti er; an unusual display of mirth perthe patient servility, and all prevailing bow: valed the whole Theatre, which, by the bye, -such were the distinctions of Cooke's Sir seemeii rather indicative of good spirits, than Pertinax, which made it stand alone, a fini bea of good nature, as ve never saw to our lives an piece, not capable of improvement : the thing audience more d posed to laugh at any thing had been done once, and done well by hin, and ihat might come before them, or more bearty could never be done again.

Mr. Grani,

in the cause of a quiz. The play was the tra therefore, had to pilch bis tent on ground

gedy of the Fair Penitent. The great Mr. already covered in ; for though Couke was Coates at length in de lus appearance in the gove, his fame still filled the character ; under

gallant gay Lothario." Tinis Gentleman's such disadvantages any stavd was créditable. eck has the app a

nce of having been twiat. Mr. Grant has a good figure ; but an unmcan

ed, as he swings his head round with won

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