FASHIONS

FOR

OCTOBER, 1811.

EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION.

No. 1. EVENING DRESS.

A sea-green crape dress, vandyked round the petticoat, and ornamented with large beads; || a full drapery over the shoulders, and confined in to the back with a pearl band, ornamented round the neck and down the back with beads. A full turban fillet tapered, worn on the head. Pearl necklace, white kid gloves and shoes.

No. 2. BALL DRESS.

some measure her own artist; thus her cap is not only adapted to her figure and features, but eveu to the air and humour she puts on for the day; she has nothing to do but to look well, and no matter in what.

For the promenade, an elegant mantlet is formed with a square of yellow crape, bound with satin ribband of the same colour; it is turned over from the neck, so as to form a sort of cape, the corners ornamented with small elegant silk tassels. White satin spensers, with a white silk scarf thrown over them, are well adapted to the season, and have a fascinating appearance. Satin tippets lined, and edged with swansdown, or spensers, will be well suited to the latter end of the present month. The pelisse of lace or crape, if still

A faucy dress of undressed white crape, worn over a satin slip; the waist of the dress in the boddice form, scolioped and bound with pink satin ribband; the bottom of the dress scolloped in a similar manner, and caught up with small bunches of artificial flowers, the centre bunch of au increased size. The hem of the petticoat trimmed with twist-retained, will shortly require the addition of ed satin and beads. Short Spanish sleeves a scarf in conformity to the season. Short composed of satin and lace; the back and pelisses of rich twilled sarsnet are much worn should rs of the dress trimmed with vanover a dress trimmed with a full cambric

dyke lace; a bouquet of artificial flowers edging. Satin and lace Grecian or cottage

worn much on one side. The hair ornamented with a fillet of twisted satin and pearls, placed twice round the head, and left to fall in a tassel, finished with beads. Pearl necklaces and earrings. White kid gloves and shoes, with small pink and silver roses.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

ON

FASHION AND DRESS.

During the last month, we have observed

caps, are the prevailing mode of head-dress. Feathers seem less worn for the promenade, and have consequently appeared in greater numbers in the drawing-room.

Morning Dresses are frequently made in the pelisse style, buttoned down the front with small raised buttons, and trimmed round the bottom, the collar, and down the front, with a full cambric frill, delicately plaited. This style of dress is very fashionably prevailing; it gives us that idea of neatness, delicacy, and innocence, always interesting in a female; neatness is most bewitching, not merely as a

Beveral little elegant triffes, but nothing strik-pleasing quality in itself, but as a certain iningly new, or decidedly prevailing. Whoever can display most taste in transforming a handkerchief into a mantle, or a shawl or veil into a becoming head-dress, is entitled to the palm of taste and elegance. Less seems to depend on the skill of the milliner than on the fancy of the individual; every lady is ip

dication of many others; a well regulated wardrobe is not unfrequently a mark of a well regulated mind; of a conduct marked with propriety, and "thoughts void of of fence." It is a never failing sign of economy, and of all those qualities so requisite for the well arrangement of a family.

For dinner or bome dresses, Merino crapes, ornamented with coloured satin, fancifully Opera nets, sarsuets, and cambrics are most displayed in sprigs and wreath patterns, or in request. They have not varied at all in for full dress, in silver foil or spangles, are their make. The waists remain much shorter considered of the very first order of dress. than at the commencement of the summer; The hair is worn curled in full round curls they are made entirely plain, to fit the shape.round the face; the hair behind turned looseTrains are considered fashionable, but it isly up without any twist, and left to fall in a fashion which, except in full dress, is in irregular ringlet curls in the neck; no ornaa great measure superseded by convenience. ment worn in the front of the hair; a full Cloth dresses have already appeared, but blown rose placed much on one side a-lathese we cannot help considering as prema Phoebe, seems to have many admirers; as has ture. Velvets are very numerous; in fact, a knot of white or coloured ribband, mixed there is scarcely any season at which velvet negligently with the falling ringlets in the may not with propriety be worn, warm as it neck. may appear, it has the sanction of custom, which no one ventures to arraign.

For full or evening dress, figured gauze, white satin, coloured crapes, short lace dresses, and gossamer nets are considered the most elegant. Fine India muslins, with satin bodies and short satin sleeves, with a loose lace sleeve, brooched with diamonds worn over, and satin slips, are likewise very elegant. Coloured satin bodies are not so much worn, but will probably be more approved at a more advanced season; they give an appearance of dress, and contribute to the variety of the drawing-room, very pleasing at a less genial

season.

We have observed no very new devices in jewellery; pearl necklaces with a diamond clasp, without either locket or brooch are the most prevailing; necklaces in emeralds and amber, are considered very fashionable; the short sleeves have again introduced that elegant and becoming ornament the bracelet.

The prevailing colours for the season, are jonquille, violet, amber, celestial blue, autumnal yellow, and rose.

It is from good authority we announce the present assortment of superb India shawls, gold and silver muslins, the admired Angola and Arabian shawls, together with the It is imagined that soft India mull choicest India muslins, and all the new muslins, wrought in small sprigs, with co- articles for ladies' autumn dress, now on sale loured cruels, will be found in great request at the house of Millard, in the city, far exfor the end of autumn and winter; they may ceeds even that of any former season; and, not be probably considered to belong to full || although we understand there is to be no sale dress. Silver turbans are a very prevailing this autumn at the India house for India mushead-dress; satin caps, blended with lace, and lins, yet the immense stock of that house will ornamented with the Highland plume, are still afford a rich treat to the lovers of that also much approved. Pearl cords and tassels truly valuable article, where they are regularly are extremely elegant; beads are more worn obtained by the piece, or demy, at the first than during the last month. Crape dresses price.

MONTHLY MISCELLANY,

INCLUDING VARIETIES, CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL.

for the season. A few years since there was a kind of poets in England who were denominated the water-poets; a sub-division, we be

PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS. LYCEUM-The managers of this theatre are entitled to the praise of great industry and great taste in providing for the popular amuse-lieve, of pastoral poets, the former dealing in ment, during the inactivity of the summer descriptions of water, fountains, rivers, &c. as months, and in giving them a kind of amuse-the latter preferred the terra firma, the fields,; ment, which is in a manner singularly suitedwoods, groves, and meadows. Now if we might

characters some probability.It is a mere pretty imbecility. If we were asked for an idea of Mr. Moore's Muse, and to give it from this piece, and two or three others, we should say, a pretty face, a pretty voice, but there you must stop -Expect nothing farther.

give a name to the authors who write for the Lyceum, and to Mr. Moore amongst them, we should not hesitate to characterize them as summer poets; they do not fatigue the reason or the imagination with too much sense or wit. They may be heard, even in the dogdays, without over-burthening us. They come in, in short, as a suitable auxiliary to the zephyrs, bees, and burning sun, and induce that sweet sleep, that serene composure, which are usually ascribed to music. We do Lover, and other popular Romances, bas in

mas.

WORKS IN THE PRESS,

Miss Palmer, author of the Husband and

the press a Novel entitled the Sons of Altring

ham.

Mr. Parkes, keeping pace with the rapid discoveries in chemical science, has in the press a new and improved edition of his Chemical Catechism.

The Booksellers are printing a new edition of Jarvis's translation of Don Quixote, in the same neat and convenient size as Mrs. Bar

not say this in any contempt of these dramas;
we have often entered the summer theatres fa-
tigued and exhausted, and have experienced
a very considerable refreshment in these dra-
When Shakespeare would have annoyed
us, and Congreve have fatigued us, Anacreon
Moore has waved his rosy wand, and we have
sunk into a sleep as fast as the Lady in Comus.
Mr. Moore's Comic Opera of M. P. or The
Blue Stocking, is so exactly of this description, bauld's collection of British Novels.
that we should lose time to criticise heavily
what seems to have been so very lightly writ
ten. The plot is the ordinary plot of novels
and comic Operas. Mr. Moore, we should
have thought, might have made a better over
his breakfast cup. There is really no excuse
for these absurdities in men that can do better,
and in circumstances in which they ought to
do better; either he should not have written
at all, or he should at least have written in
sense and nature. The poetry of the play is
that of Mr. Moore. Its versification is more
singular and pleasing than its thoughts or
images. There is too much rose-water, how-
ever, there is too much cant about fountains,
and Cupids, and streams. In plain words, it
is only raised above namby-pamby by having
some elegance in its melody, and more turns
of diction. But why should not Mr. Moore
have afforded some sense as well as some har-
mony? Why does he concur in the experi-
ment, how far a series of pretty lines may in-
demnify for a perfect absence of all sense, or at
least, of all energy? An English audience are
not to be pleased in the same way as the Lady
Marys and Carolines. To sum up our own
opinion of this musical piece, it might have
been better, it ought to have been better. The
poetry should have had some meaning, the
plot should have had some nature, and the

The new edition of Tusser's Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry, will be published in October.

Mr. Walker has set to Music for three Voices, with a Forte-piano and Flute accompaniment, Montgomery's exquisite translation of "Ranz des Vaches;" or, "The Swiss Cowherd's Song." It will be published in a few days.

Mr. Nichols has nearly completed his very laborious work on Leicestershire; also his extended edition of Anecdotes of Bowyer, which will be in six octavo volumes.

Dr. Thomas Jameson, of Cheltenham, will shortly publish, Essays on the Changes of the Human Body, at its different Ages; the Diseases to which it is predisposed in each period of life, and the leading principles of its Lon. gevity.

Dr. Titford is preparing for publication, Sketches toward a Hortus Botanicus Americanus, with coloured plates, collected and 2010 iled during his residence in the West Indies.

Dr. Aikin will speedily publish, in an octavo volume, the Lives of John Seldon, Esq. aud Archbishop Usher, with notices of the English literary characters with whom they were connected.

Mr. James Gillman, surgeon, Highgate, will shortly publish an Essay on the Bite of a Rabid Animal; being the substance of an Essay that received a prize from the Royal College of Surgeons.

Mr. John Thelwall, author of the Vestibule of Eloquence, will shortly publish, in an octavo volume, Elements of English Rhythmus; with an Analysis of the Science and Practice of Elocution.

159

| Urga Minor, neзr the tail. Its position on the 10th was considerably near to the more southerly of the two lower stars of the square. When first seen here, 21st August, ten minutes past eight in the evening, it had the appearance of a large Nebula nearly circular, and of about one degree in extent, with a central light like that of Andromeda, resembled a hazy star of the fourth or fifth nagnitude. It had then R.A. 149 or 50 N.D. nearly 36. Cloudy weather prevented its being again seen till the evening of the 5th, when it appeared like a fixed star of about the second magnitude, with a thin Dr. Gregory, of the Royal Military Academy, pale train of about 4 deg. min. at about half will publish next month, a Series of Letters past eight; on the 6th it was brighter very to a Friend, in vindication of the evidences, considerably, its train then, viewed with a good doctrines, and duties of the Christian Religion.four-foot and a half refractor of Dolland, and a

A translation of Chateaubriand's Travels in Greece, Palestine, Egypt, and Barbary, in 1806-7, is printing in two octavo volumes.

Mr. W. Jones, author of an Essay on the Life and Writings of Mr. Ab. Booth, proposes to publish by subscription, in an octavo volume, the History of the Churches of the ValJies of Piedmont, commonly called the Waldenses and Albigense,

Mr. Holstein will shortly publish the Modern State, or a husband perplexed.

very good night glass adapted for use by Nairne and Blunt, was evidently divided by a darkish shade near the farther extremity. It was very conspicuous even to the naked eye. The head, which had appeared like Saturn in his aphelion, now appeared much more round, like Jupiter at his meridian. Last night, with R. A. of about 262, N. D. of about 42, still advancing toward the square, it appeared even brighter than on Friday, the head a yellowish light pretty well defined; the train (which when most apparent was that and the former night about 6 degrees in length and nearly 4 at its farther extremity) a thin, white splendour like Mr. Henry Card has in the press, Beauford, the head (including diffused Coma), about 40, the coyliest part of the milky way. Breadth of or Views in High Life.

Mr. Andrew Duncau, printer to the Univer sity of Glasgow, has in the press a new edition of Xenophon's Cyropædeia, with the Greek, Latin, and notes on each page, and corrected from the edition superintended by Mr. Hutchinson.

or about 1-4th or 1-5th of the Moon's apparent diameter. From its slow motion and the di

that it will be visible three or four months longer. It is a noble confirmation of the Newtonian and Halleian theory, having been seen so long before, and now after its perihe

THE COMET.-The Comet which was ob-rection of its path, there seems reason to hope served in Europe in its descent to the sun from the middle nearly of March to the latter end of May last, and in the West Indies on the first of June, when it had passed its descending node, and was coming to its perihelion.-Though less brilliant than the comet of lion, and which was again observed at the 1907, it is apparently and I believe really, a Observatory at Paris, after it had passed its larger comet. From observation of both, and perihelion, and had risen above its ascending of some others, there seems no reason, in genode with a right ascension of 147 deg. 18 min.neral, to suppose any thing noxious or destrucand a north declination of 324 in the constella- || tive in their forms, but the contrary.

tion of Leo Minor, is now very conspicuous under the square of Urga Major; whence it seems to be passing in a direction through the square and the tail of Draco and the body of

Professor Robinson speaks thus of Comets: "There are sometimes seen in the heavens certain bodies, accompanied by a train of faint light, which has occasioned them to be called

Comets. Their appearance and motions are extremely various, and the only general remarks that can be made on them are, that the train or tail is generally small on the first appearance of a Comet, gradually lengthens as the Comet comes into the neighbourhood of the sun, and again diminishes as it retires to a distance. Also the tail is always extended in a direction nearly opposite to the sun."

"On th' other side, Incens'd with indiguation, Satan stood "Unterrify'd, and like a Comet burn'd, "That fires the length of Ophiuchus huge "In th' arctic sky, and from his horrid hair "Shakes pestilence and war."

earth would appear like a Comet to a spectator placed on another planet. The apparent magnitude of Comets is very different, sometimes seeming not bigger than the fixed stars, at other times equal in diameter to Venus. Hevelius observed one in 1652, which was not inferior to the moon in size, though not so bright; its light pale and dim, its aspect dismal. To many miuds the appearance of the The opinions of Philosophers concerning Comet has produced awe and dread. In geComets have been very different. Sir Isaac neral, indeed, nothing affects the imagination Newton first shewed that they are a part of the more than uncommon appearances in the solar system, revolving round the sun in trajec heavens: the fall of a meteor strikes deeper tories, nearly parabolical, having the sun in awe than the spectacle of all the Stars; and the focus. Dr. Halley computes the motions Comets, from time immemorial, have been beof several Comets, and among them found held with terror and amazement, as executionsome which had precisely the same trajectory.ers of divine wrath. The Poets have taken He therefore concluded that there were differ-happy advantage of this superstition, and none ent appearances of one Comet, and that the have more nobly employed it than Milton :path of a Comet is a very eccentric eclipse, having the sun in one focus. The apparition of the Comet of 1682 in 1759, which was predicted by Halley, has given his opinion the most complete confirmation. Comets are therefore planets, resembling the others in the laws of their motion, revolving round the sun in ellipses, describing areas proportional to the times, and having the squares of their periodic times proportional to the cubes of their mean distance from the sun. They differ from the planets in the great variety of the position of their orbits, and in this, that many of them have their course in antecedentia Signorum, (contrary to the order of the Signs of the Zodiac.) Their number is very great; but there are but few with the elements of whose motions we are well acquain ed. The Comet of 1680 came very near to the sun on the 11th of December, its distance not exceeding his semi-diameter. When in its aphelion, it will be almost 150 times further from the sum than the earth is. Our ideas of the extent of the solar system are thus greatly enlarged. No satisfactory knowledge has been acquired concerning the cause of that train of light which accompanies the Comets. Some Philosophers imagine, that it is the rarer atmosphere of the Comet, impelled by the sun's rays. Others imagine, that it is a phenomenon of the same kind with the Aurora Borealis, and that this

PARADISE LOST

There is, however, nothing in the appearance of this mysterious stranger "in the arctic sky" that should strike dread. He draws after him a train of beautiful light, resembling in colour and exceeding in lustre the traces of the Milky Way; and, instead of Satan, we would compare him to Raphael," sociably mild," of whom the same Poet, by the mouth. of Adam, thus speaks, in language too exqui, site for us to profane it by a parody to suit a temporary purpose :

"Haste hither, Eve, and worth thy sight behold. "Eastward among those trees, what glorious shape

"Comes this way moving; seems another morn "Ris'n on mid noon; some great behest from heaven

"To us perhaps he brings."

From the presence of such a messenger we need fear no evil; he brings the pleasantest weather we have experienced this year, aud he comes to witness "the joy of harvest" in our fields.