which has induced the inhabitants of Carolina to prohibit the destroying them, as they think they are useful in removing bodies in a state of decay, that would increase the unhealthiness of the climate.

After passing the Dismal Swamp, we entered North Carolina. On the side next the sea it is a vast plain, almost covered with forests. It happened, one night, that we were belated, and lost our way in one of these trackless wilds. It was not long before a light, glimmering through the trees, revived our drooping spirits with the expectation that a house was not far off; but what was our surprise and disappointment, on riding up to the spot, to find that it moved from us, then drew nigh, and then swiftly took flight into the woods. Whilst we were considering the cause of this extraordinary appearance, I perceived the same sort of light in a bush close to our side, and in a few minutes all the trees in the forest sparkled with them. Mr. Franklin. presently recollected that this illumination proceeded from the fire fly, a small insect that swarms in summer in the American woods, dispersing their light in all parts in the night; though they are seldom seen in the day, because they hide themselves in rotten wood. I pocketed a few for examination, and found them of a reddish brown colour. The

light comes from under the wings; rise in the air, looks like sparks,

and when they appearing and disappearing

disappearing every moment. It is a great relief, in travelling through those woods, to allay our thirst with wild strawberries, which grow here plentifully. The green fruit on the trees promise also an abundance of wild plums, grapes, and blackberries. Various kinds of medicinal plants and roots are found here, particularly ginseng; snakeroot; and lion's heart, which is thought a sovereign remedy for the bite of a serpent. We sometimes exchange the gloomy forest for the open savannah, or pasture ground, mostly covered with cane grass, resembling the stalks of green corn, and affording excellent food for cattle. I am no coward; but the pale, sallow, sickly countenances of the inhabitants, and the numbers we have found indisposed with bilious fevers and agues, make me dread a fit of illness. Nature generally provides a remedy for every evil. This country would probably be more unhealthy than it is, were it not that the trees in the low country are loaded with vast quantities of a long, spongy kind of moss, which inhales the unwholesome vapours from the stagnant waters.

We have been at Charlestown but a few days, and have taken up our abode at a boarding-house, where we are supplied with lodging and food: but we are seldom at home, as we accept all invitations; our design being to see as much as possible of the people, as well as the country. Having an engagement to dinner, and scarcely time to prepare

for

for it, I must close my letter, with most affectionate remembrance to all my friends in Old England. Adieu.

ARTHUR MIDDLETON..

LETTER X.

Mr. H. Franklin to Edwin Middleton.

DEAR EDWIN,

Charlestown:

I CANNOT seal up a packet that I am going to send to my brother, without enclosing a letter for you. Carolina is divided into North and South. The eastern side, towards the ocean, through which we have lately travelled, is a low, swampy country, intersected with creeks and rivers;. and from its moisture, the heat of the climate, and. profusion of vegetables, extremely unhealthy.

Newbern, though a poor place, is the largest town in North Carolina. The houses are built with wood; and a few public edifices only are of brick. We have passed through several other small towns, but they have no particular claims to description,

Charlestown is the capital of South Carolina. It is situated on a tongue of land, formed by the con-fluence

*

fluence of the rivers Ashley and Cooper. The most populous and commercial quarter of the city stands on the Ashley. Some parts of the quay project a great way into the river, that merchant vessels may more easily receive their cargoes.

These quays are made of the trunks of the cabbage-palm, fixed together, and placed in squares one above another. The spongy nature of this tree would not lead one to expect that it would remain many years under water without injury; but experience proves that it is more durable for this purpose than any other tree in the country. The streets, from east to west, extend from river to river, and running in straight lines, open agreeable prospects each way, and afford good opportunities, by means of subterranean drains, for removing nuisances, and promoting the health and cleanliness of the city. The most modern houses are generally of brick, though many of the inhabitants prefer houses of wood, because they think them cooler than those of brick; and they adopt every contrivance to mitigate the excessive heats of summer, by admitting the fresh air into the apartments. Open windows, doors opposite to each other, and long galleries formed to shelter the upper part of the house from the sultry rays of the sun, are the luxuries preferred by the rich to the ornaments of painting and gilding.

The outward appearance is often neglected,

when

when the inside is commodious and well furnished ; though they are seldom remarkably neat, notwithstanding the numerous train of negro servants that are kept in opulent families.

The streets, instead of being paved, are covered with a loose sand, ground to a fine powder by the multitude of carriages that pass through them. In windy weather, the dust is intolerable; and, after a shower, the passengers would sink into the mud, were it not for narrow brick foot-paths, which run before the houses. Pumps are placed at short distances; but the water has a brackish taste, that is very disagreeable. The mode of living is extremely luxurious. Most families keep a coach or a chaise. The ladies are never seen to walk on foot; and the men often ride. Twenty negro and mulatto slaves are commonly employed by people of the middle rank, in domestic offices; and even the children are attended by a number of little negroes of their own age, who are obliged to comply with their humours, and form them to habits of tyranny from their infancy. Arthur cannot bear this, and is continually giving lessons of humanity and moderation to his companions.

The hospitality of the inhabitants of Carolina towards strangers, their generosity to persons in distress, and their unfeeling treatment of their slaves, show that the human breast is capable of cherishing qualitics directly opposite to cach other. They are expensive in their funerals, thinking it a

mark