express the gratitude and satisfaction that were shown by Mr. Martin is impossible. I advanced him a sum of money to enable him to make the best of his way to Philadelphia, where he a relations who are persons of the first respectability; and as he appears to be a man of worth, I have no doubt of receiving remittances from him, to reimburse me for what I have expended on his account. The days which afford such opportunities of succouring the distressed, should be reckoned amongst the happiest of our lives. May you enjoy many of them, and suffer none to escape, without tasting the exquisite pleasure they afford.

Yours, &c.

HENRY FRANKLIN.

LETTER XXXIII.

Arthur Middleton to his Brother Edwin.

Quebec.

MY DEAR EDWIN,

THE country around St. John's is flat,

and almost destitute of trees, from a dreadful fire. which destroyed the woods for miles, and has. rendered firing very scarce.

We

We set out from this place in a light waggon, which carried us through a picturesque country, by the town of Chambly, adorned with a fine old castle, built by the French, to La Prairie, a small place, where we exchanged our vehicle for a bateau, in which we embarksd for Montreal. A bateau is a flat-bottomed boat, with sharp ends, particularly adapted to the stormy lakes and rivers of America.

Since we left St. John's, the face of things bears quite a different aspect, and it is easy to perceive that we have entered a new territory. The British flag; soldiers on duty; the French inhabitants _running about in their red night-caps; the children saluting you at the doors; (a custom never observed in the United States ;) the improved appearance of of the houses; large Roman Catholic churches and chapels; priests in their robes; nuns; friars; large wooden crucifixes by the road side; and, above all, a universal change of language from English to French. In order to account for these alterations, I must tell you, that Canada belonged to the French, till it was ceded by treaty to the English, in 1769; and it is still chiefly inhabited by people of French extraction, who are allowed the exercise of the Catholic religion.

Montreal is the capital of Upper Canada. It is built upon an island of the same name, in the river St. Lawrence, and is surrounded with walls, though the suburbs extend far beyond them. The build

ings within the walls are composed of a compact, dark-coloured limestone, which whitens in the fire, and becomes greyish when exposed to the air and sun those in the suburbs are chiefly wood. The lower part of the town, where most of the shops are situated, has a gloomy aspect, especially towards evening, when the doors and windows are regularly shut up with sheet-iron shutters, a precaution used against fire. This accident has so often been attended here with dreadful consequences, that the inhabitants who can afford it, cover the roofs of their houses with tin plates, instead of shingles. The streets are narrow, but there are two open squares; and the town is embellished with several churches and convents. The cathedral is a spacious edifice, and has five richly-decorated altars: the doors are always open, and numbers of people frequent it to pay their private devotions, when there is no public worship performed. One Sunday that we attended the celebration of high mass, the crowd was so great, that the steps on the outside were covered with people, who continued kneeling, with their hats off, during the service. It happened that there was a grand funeral at this church, at the time of our stay in the town. A number of priests accompanied it, chaunting prayers, followed by little boys in white robes and black caps, with wax lights in their hands. These are the usual ceremonies for all whose relations can afford to pay for them. The inhabitants are

lively, polite, and sociable, and live in such harmony, that you would suppose they were all related. The Island of Montreal is twenty-eight miles long. On it are several mountains. The foot of the largest of them is encircled with neat country houses, and pretty gardens; and its sides are covered with lofty trees. From this place a prodigious extent of country bursts upon the sight, with the noble river St. Lawrence winding through. On one side flows the river smoothly on, after passing down the tremendous rapids above the town, where it is hurried, with a noise like thunder, over huge rocks. On the opposite side is seen the town, with its churches, monasteries,. glittering spires, and the shipping under its ruined walls.

Mr. Franklin having formed the resolution of passing the winter at Quebec, and the autumn being pretty much advanced, we again embarked. on board a bateau, covered with an awning stretched over hoops, and sailed down the river St. Lawrence. For several leagues below Montreal, the houses are so numerous, that it appears like a continued village. These buildings are remarkably neat; and in each hamlet, be it ever so small, there is a church the spires are generally covered with tin, which, sparkling in the sun, has a pretty effect through the trees.

Sorelle is a town standing at the mouth of the river of the same name, which runs from Lake

Champlain

Champlain into the St. Lawrence. This town was to have been built upon a very extensive scale; but instead of that, it now consists of a few indifferent, straggling houses. It is principally inhabited by subjects of the United States, who, being attached to the British government, fled hither when the Americans became independent: they are chiefly employed in ship building. A little beyond Sorelle, the river expands to a great breadth, and is so thickly sprinkled with small islands, that it is astonishing how large vessels can pass between them. This wide part is called the Lac St. Pierre. It afterwards narrows, and is nowhere more than two miles across before it reaches Quebec. This city, where we have taken up our residence for two or three months, is situated on a very lofty point of land, at the confluence of the rivers St. Lawrence and St. Charles. It is built on a rock of limestone, and is divided into the upper and lower town; the latter stands close to the water, and the former on rocks, so steep that they are absolutely inaccessible. Thus it is strongly fortified by nature and art, the side towards the land being defended by stupendous works. The lower town is a dirty, confined, disagreeable place, chiefly inhabited by traders concerned in the shipping. The elevated situation of the upper town renders it healthy and pleasant, though the streets are narrow and irregular. It is the residence of the governor, gentry, and principal merchants. Most of the houses

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