Hoste; Master, W. Ellis; Purser, W. Bell; Mates, Robert Coote, F. P. Warren, Hon. P. F. Pellew, and Hon. F. Curzon. VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE. THE Voyage of Her Majesty's surveying vessel Beagle having been completed, it may not be uninteresting to the readers of this journal to be informed of the result of the work that has been performed by the tenants of her wooden walls since her arrival from England, in the year 1837. The objects of her voyage were not confined to one spot or portion of the coast, but, generally, to complete all parts that had hitherto escaped the notice of, or had not been visited by, previous navigators: particularly, portions of the north-western coast which were not seen by Captains Flinders and King, or by the French expedition under Commodore Baudin, in the year 1802. The Beagle left England originally under the command of Captain J. C. Wickham. This officer, however, after two harrassing voyages to the northwest coast-in which several interesting points were established, and two rivers (the Adelaide and the Victoria) discovered-was necessitated to return to England, on account of bad health, brought on by the extreme heat of the climate, when the command devolved upon Captain J. L. Stokes, who has completed the objects of her voyage, and now takes her home-to receive, it is hoped, the reward of his long and useful services. To describe the work performed, in the succession in which it was executed, would be out of place here. It is better, therefore, to give a general summary of the different portions of the survey in the order, as to position, in which they follow each other. Commencing, therefore, with the eastern coast. The inner route towards Torres Strait was twice navigated on the way to the north coast, and several important corrections and additions made to the charts now in use. Of the latter may be mentioned, the determination of a better outlet than the one to the north of Wednesday and Hammond Islands, viz., by passing through Endeavour Strait, which hitherto has been considered to be too shoal for vessels of large burthen. Captain Stokes has however ascertained, that by keeping nearer to Wallis' Isles, a good channel or outlet exists, in which there is not less than five fathoms water. The passage, therefore, through this part of Torres Strait has been very much improved. The next important feature of the Beagle's voyage, was the discovery of two considerable rivers at the bottom of the Gulf of Carpentaria, flowing through a fine country in a south-westerly direction for sixty miles, navigable for thirteen miles for vessels of thirteen feet draft, and to within five miles of where the water is fresh; the boats, however, traced it for nearly fifty miles further, to the latitude of 17° 59′ and longitude 139° 30'. The climate was found, in the month of August, to be of an agreeable character, the thermometer in the month of August indicating an average temperature of 60°, the minimum being 50°. To these rivers the names of Albert" and "Flinders" were given. The character of the country is low, and the soil chiefly alluvial. No satisfactory reason has been given for the low temperature of this tropical region, which, as the latitude is about 17°, ought to have been at least 70° or 75°. The situation of these rivers may at no distant period open a road to the interior, which is at present wrapped up in doubt and mystery. The next discovery in succession to the west, was that of the "Adelaide' river, at the north-west part of the Gulf of Van Diemen, similar in character to the Alligator rivers, which were discovered in the year 1818, falling into the gulf at its southern part. Proceeding farther, another river was found of more importance, and size, than any previously known in Intertropical Australia. It was called the "Victoria." It extends for about one hundred and fifty miles to the S.E.b.E., and is navigable for vessels of burthen for sixty miles from the entrance; its further examination was made by a pedestrian party to the latitude of 15° 36', and longitude 130° 52′, and was left still flowing from the south-east. This position is about five hundred miles from the centre of the continent. The character of the river may better be understood from the following extract from Captain Stokes' journal. "The valley through which the river passes varies in its nature, from treeless, stony plains, to rich alluvial flats, lightly timbered with a white stemmed gum; the banks are steep and high, thickly clothed with the Acacia, drooping Eucalyptus, and tall reeds. There was no perceptible stream in the upper reaches; but, if we may judge from the inclination of the stems of the trees growing in the bed, and heaps of large boulders in the channel of the river; the Victoria, at some recent period, must have been a large and rapid river." Whilst employed in making observations at Cape Pearce, which forms the north entrance of this river, Captain Stokes was treacherously speared by the natives. The wound was a severe one; but assistance being rendered, his life was happily saved. It is a curious coincidence that the three officers whose services as surveyors in the late expedition have been most prominent, viz., Captain Stokes, Mr. A. B. Usborne, master, and Mr. Fitzmaurice, mate; each met with serious wounds in the prosecution of their duty, Messrs. Usborne and Fitzmaurice, from muskets accidentally exploding: the former was obliged to invalid in consequence, and the latter, who however has persevered to the last, I will be lame for life. The rivers Albert and Flinders to the eastward, and that of Victoria to the westward, converge in the direction of their sources apparently to one common point; to which also do the intermediate rivers-the Alligators and the Adelaide. It seems probable that all derive their origin from some large inland marsh or lake, to which they serve as drains. It is not unlikely that there may be a low tract of land between the Gulf of Carpentaria and the great Horseshoe swamp, found by Mr. Eyre in the northern part of the province of South Australia. With respect, however, to the climate of the country in the neighbourhood of the Victoria, the temperature, ranging between 95° and 110°, was found by the Beagle's officers in the month of November to be almost insufferable, and quite different to that experienced at the Albert, in the Gulf of Carpentaria. It would seem from Captain Stoke's description above inserted, to resemble in character the country about Cambridge Gulf, which has its embouchure to the sea, a short distance to the westward. The next part of the north-west coast visited by the Beagle, was the opening that was supposed to exist at the back of the Buccaneer's Archipelago. Perhaps no part of the whole coast promised to be of greater interest, and raised hopes of the existence there of a large river, hopes that were justified by the great rise and fall of the tides, which exceeded thirty-six feet. It was, however, found to be but a comparatively unimportant indentation, the eastern part or Collier's Bay being nothing more than a shallow sinuosity of the coast line, and the western part narrowed gradually into a tolerably extensive sound, terminated by Fitzroy river, which was traced for twenty-five miles in a southerly direction, draining the lowland from and through which it flowed. The opening near Cape Latouche-Treville, which was thought also to be another outlet of the supposed river, or else the mouth of a second, was an open bay not affording even sheltered anchorage. The interval between this part and Depuch Island, was also explored, but not found to contain any inlet or feature of importance. It is generally a sandy and low sterile coast, fronted by a shoal approach and several sand-banks, the positions of which were ascertained. The Monte-Bello Islands were also correctly and minutely surveyed, as also some rocks in the neighbourhood, which are doubtless the Trial Rocks of former navigators. On the west coast, the Houtman's Abrolhos was also explored and surveyed, together with the coast within it, where the fertile appearance of the coast gave strong indications of the presence of a country favourable for settling. It is here that Governor Grey recommended the Australind Company to establish themselves. Fortunately, however, they had located themselves at the inlet called Port Leschenault: for they afterwards ascertained that the former would not have suited their wants. Several new anchorages about Rottenest and Gage's Road, off Swan River, were also examined and surveyed, in which much advantage will be derived by the colonists at Western Australia. South Australia has also had the advantage of the Beagle's services in the survey of the anchorage and port at Adelaide. But perhaps the most important-because useful-work performed by the Beagle has been the detailed survey of Bass' Strait, which has been just completed by Captain Stokes, with the aid of the Government of Van Diemen Land; which, in the most liberal way, at once acceded to the request of Captain Stokes, by devoting to his services the use of the colonial cutter Vansittart, for the survey of the southern portion of the eastern entrance of the Strait. The command of the vessel was temporarily given to Mr. C. C. Forsyth, mate of the Beagle. The result of these labours has been the completion of the survey, in which the proper and relative positions of the various headlands, capes, and islands, which are so prominent and numerous in the Strait, are laid down, with the tides, soundings, and description of several new anchorages, in a manner that cannot but be of immense importance to the commercial interests of the colony. Much important information, relative to the entrance of Port Dalrymple, as well as that of Port Philip, and the channel within it; the approaches to and anchorages to the southward of Corner Inlet have also been furnished by the operations of the Beagle during this important survey. Much labour and personal exertion have been bestowed upon this work, and too much praise cannot be given to those who have been prominent therein. It may be, however, necessary to say, that it was commenced by Captain Wickham, and completed by Captain Stokes. This, however, would not have been the last work which the Beagle would have performed for the colony, but for obstacles which unexpectedly presented themselves, and prevented Captain Stokes from making a survey of the neighbouring coasts of Port Jackson. The necessity for a chart of the coast is very urgent, from discrepancies which have been found to exist in the chart now in use, and the principal materials for it have been from time to time prepared as the Beagle passed up and down the coast. It is to be lamented that this desirable matter could not have been accomplished. It is unnecessary to follow the Beagle with more detail through her various movements upon the long and tedious service upon which she has been employed. Suffice to say, that the fruit of her voyage has been of the greatest importance to the navigation of the coasts, which will be amply proved when the charts of her voyage, particularly that of Bass' Straits, are published, and -placed within the reach of navigators, by whom alone, from the unpretending manner in which the work has been performed, it can be estimated as it deserves. P. P. K. NAUTICAL NOTICES. SLASHER REEF, Australia.-We take the following from that valuable journal, the Naval and Military Gazette, and with some surprise, like the writer, that we have not met with it before: had he sent it to the Nautical Magazine, it would have appeared immediately. These ships had no business out of the usual track, from which the reef on which they struck is distant about twenty miles. Was it to conceal this mistake that it has so long been kept quiet? Camp Kurrachee, Lower Scinde, March 25th, 1843. SIR.-It has been a subject of the greatest surprise to us here, that although now a period of nearly nine months has elapsed since Her Majesty's 28th regiment had a providential escape from shipwreck, not a single notice (that we have seen) has ever appeared on the subject in any paper, although I know a full account was forwarded to one of your leading journals in London, in September last; and one would think that a detail relating to a corps which “has done some service to the State," might be as worthy of notice as the numerous and melancholy calamities which have lately befallen Indian cotton and merchant ships, and with which the English press is teeming. Concluding, sir, that you have been silent only because you have never heard the circumstances, I now regret that I did not, at the time, send you an account, as after so many months I can now only briefly state the facts in general, for such is, perhaps fortunately, our nature, that the events of the past fade as their distance from the present increases; and hours of anxiety and excitement are all comprised in one general recollection of the main cause which gave rise to them. On the 16th June, 1812, the whole regiment, consisting of 26 officers and 709 men, embarked at Sydney, and on the 19th sailed for Bombay on board the ships John Brewer, (head quarters,) Kelso, and Arab, to proceed by the inner passage, Torres strait, and to keep company through, the Kelso leading as Commodore. On the night of the 29th, being now two or three days in the straits, it blew very fresh, and the ships were going very fast before the wind as we ran along by the coast, which was some thirty miles from us. You must be aware that this is, perhaps, one of the most dangerous passages known, as it is studded with reefs and rocks, hidden and visible, and that the vessels are obliged to anchor each day with good light. We had not done so yet, and whether we ought to have done it is a question I do not mean to venture an opinion on; it is sufficient for my present object to state we did not do so, but continued running through the night and the following morning. About half-past five o'clock, just as day was breaking, the three ships above named, with a barque that joined us the day before, named the Hopkinson, were almost at the same moment fast, having struck against a coral reef? It was, indeed a curious scene to see them almost within hail. The Brewer, Kelso, and Hopkinson, almost in a line, were held by the bows; the Arab had gone more a-head, and got her broadside on, in which position she was rocking and striking in a manner that led us to conclude she must either go to pieces or never get off. The limits of a letter will not permit my entering at any length into the various means we resorted to, or the many fortuitous circumstances to which we owe our escape. Kedge anchors were got out, as we were afloat astern, while we had not two feet water at the bows, and, after a hard day's work, we succeeded in dragging the ships, all but the Arab, out of the reef, and into deep water again; but here we were in almost greater danger than before, as it blew hard, and we were surrounded by rocks so close, that if the anchors yielded the least, we must have gone against them. During the night the Arab swung off, when the tide rose, and was afloat. In fact, we worked unceasingly for six days, until the 5th July, during which time we had recourse to every possible expedient. At length all was ready to attempt getting out of what the Americans would call our present "fix," and this was the greatest difficulty of all. To give you some idea of this, I must try and explain our position. It seems that on the 29th we had kept too much to the eastward, and that right a-head of us, stretching from west to east, ran a long barrier of coral reef, not visible, and, of course, stretching across our course. Had we struck against this, our doom would have been sealed; but here, as in many other instances, Providence interposed in our behalf: in the line of this barrier was a gap of about a mile, within which was formed a bay, running about two miles back; in fact, forming a sort of harbour under water. Through this opening the four vessels entered almost together, and from the tide being full at the time, we must have sailed over some of the rocks, which shewed themselves everywhere behind us at its fall, and presented a fearful opposition to our attempts at getting out. Another difficulty was, that the wind, which is always favourable to the onward course, as it blows from the south, for that same reason must be against us in our efforts to return. However, on this morning, with God's blessing, we did make the effort, and succeeded, after truly many "hair-breadth 'scapes," in clearing this reef, and that night anchored at the Palm Islands. That my letter may have something to recommend it, I shall give you a copy of the only document I now have relating to this event; it is the position of the reef which we called "28th, or the Slasher's reef." Lat. 18° 32' Bear. by from Palm Islands W. & by S. S. 291 miles. } Comp. After clearing this, and making for the Palm Islands, we passed another long reef, bearing 9 miles W.b.S; this we called "John Brewer Reef." As to the causes which led to our getting into this place at all, I do not feel myself competent to give an opinion; but had I time or space to enter more into detail, I think I could show you that our getting our of it forms one of the most wonderful instances of escape on record. I am, &c., A SLASHER. SANTA CRUZ, Tenerife, Anchorage.-We request our readers to correct the following in the marks for the anchorage at Tenerife, in our number for April (p. 217.) For the "Square Church Tower on with the cupola bearing W.S.W.," read Square Church with a cupola to bear W.N.W. ;" and in the subsequent bearing of Fort Paso Alto for "N.N.W." read "NNE." The foregoing will be sufficient; but another good anchoring mark is not to bring the Mole Head any thing north of W.N.W. BALTIC NAVIGATION, OSCAR BANK, Calmar, June 14th.-In beating up the North Calmar Sound, the master of the galliot Oscar Vornander, discovered a strong shallow on which was no more than eight feet water. The bearings are as follow: The church of Achlboke on Orland, E.S.E. E., and the castle of Borgholm S.W. S. by compass. The above-mentioned galliot grounded on the said spot the 11th inst., but the weather being fair got off again. Duke Street, Liverpool 12th June, 1843. SIR.-I have the honor to transmit to you a communication from Mr. Cornforth, commander of the ship Otterspool of this port, a gentleman who I am sure would not willingly be the means of multiplying "Vigias," and one who always causes a good look-out to be kept when in the proximity of any (even doubtful) danger laid down on the chart. To the Editor, &c. I am, &c., ANDREW LIVINGSTON. Wednesday, May 24th, 1843.-Moderate breezes and clear weather at past meridian, sent a hand aloft to look out for Green Rock, also good look out was kept on deck. At 1h. the temperature of the water by Jamieson's marine thermometer was 58°, T. A. 56° at 2 P.M. T. W. 571, T. A. 56°; at 4 P.M. T. W. 57; at 6 P.M. T. W. 571°. At 7h. 30m. P.M. breakers seen on our lee bow about four miles off very distinctly by the look-out, chief officer and self aloft; when first seen by the look out it appeared like water breaking over a wreck, or, splashing of many oars at different points, and when abreast of it a circular space of water about the length of a ship in diameter was plainly seen quite smooth after the sea broke, it was very near the surface, and so near dark, or I would have tacked, and gone towards it; in passing it every one was so |