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SNIPE AT YELLAGODE.

103

and the military station-or, rather, the small plain on which they are situated. It is currently reported that there is only a sheet of brown paper between Cuddapah and the infernal regions, but the same thing is said of several other rather warm stations.

We had some good shooting on this march. Before we crossed the Kistnah river, we got heaps of snipe and duck. Once we got a large bag of snipe in some ploughed fields which were under irrigation, and on which the only cover was a great quantity of decaying leaves and twigs, which had been cut in the jungle, and strewn as manure for the rice crop which was to follow. We crossed the Kistnah river dryshod, jumping from stone to stone. At that dry time of the year, there were only narrow streams rushing along among the out-standing rocks and boulders, and, at the point where we crossed, no deep pools.

South of the Kistnah, I and one other got leave to go two marches ahead, and to stay a day at Yellagode, where there is a famous snipe swamp, and to rejoin the regiment at the stage beyond Yellagode. The snipe-ground is a chain of tanks, with wide swampy borders and far-stretching marshes, filled with reeds and rushes. It is about three miles from Gurramul, a village with a very comfortable bungalow, embosomed in a grove of remarkably fine tamarind trees; it is said that these trees were planted by Sir Thomas Munro, about the year 1815. Shortly before we arrived at Gurramul, a party from Kurnool, which is forty miles distant, visited Yellagode, and bagged, on each of the two or three days of their stay, nearly a hundred couple of snipe to each gun; they took bags of snipe-shot into the field with

them, from which to replenish their shot-pouches! Our success was by no means so great. The immense number of snipe made me nervous, and my companion was not a good shot at any time. I shot thirty-one couple and he shot twelve couple; but, with good shooting, we ought, each of us, to have got at least sixty or seventy couple. When we first entered the swamp, snipe rose in a large "wisp" at the sound of our splashing steps, and this repeatedly, perhaps a dozen or twenty birds in each wisp. At report of our guns, an equal number rose, shrieking, from the tussocks and patches of grass and reeds around us. The loading of our muzzle-loaders, accompanied as it was with the sharp squeak of the card wads used, put up all the birds within ear-shot; every step in advance, and the picking up of dead birds, was the signal for a fresh uprise-birds got up, not only in front, but on each side, and behind us. It was, in fact, a perfect mob of snipe, and they continually swept round, often within easy shot, and distracted our attention from the necessary steady advance. Upon myself the effect was, as I have already observed, to put me off my shooting, and I must often have made four or five misses to every hit. At last our reserve of shot became expended, and we returned to the bungalow. There were hundreds of duck also on the tanks, but we paid little attention to them, for they kept entirely over the deep water, and we had no means of getting them out if shot. There were marks of spotted deer and hog round the tanks, which are bordered on one side by thick bush and grass jungle.

At one place on this march a batch of what, at first view, seemed to be dancing-girls, came into

ARRIVAL AT CUDDAPAH.

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camp, and began to attitudinise in front of the messtent. We conceived that they were unusually tall and stalwart, though decked in all the bravery of Oriental female costume, so we went forth from the tent to hold a strict inspection of them. They were young men dressed up as women, bejewelled to the nines, and with antimony-encircled eyes! They were immediately expelled from the camp, as we did not care to encourage such an unseemly travesty.

In due time we arrived within one march of Cuddapah, and encamped at Chinnoor, about six miles short of the station. Some of us rode into Cuddapah that day, and two or three who did so nearly came to grief in quicksands, or, more properly, mud-holes, into which they plunged, horse and all, not knowing the country and its dangers. Also, there are many "pot wells" in the fields, entirely unguarded, and level with the ground; they are extremely dangerous at night, and even in the day-time to anyone riding fast, or carelessly, across country.

Cuddapah is a large town, and has, besides Hindoos, a considerable Mahomedan population, though, of late years, they are reduced both in numbers and circumstances; many of the old Pathan families having left it after a very sad and tragical affair which occurred in 1832. On the 14th of June in that year, the Mahomedan population were roused to fury by the body of a pig being found in their mosque, which was thereby grievously defiled. The pig had been killed and placed in the mosque by, it is supposed, some Hindoos, with the purpose of defiling the sacred building. A furious riot ensued. The Mahomedans rose, armed with swords and clubs, and

among them many butchers, a class always ready to lead on occasions of disturbance, and they declared their intention to massacre the Hindoos in revenge for the desecration of the mosque.

A young civilian, by name Macdonald, and who had just married, went into the town, receiving intelligence on his way that the house of a missionary, who lived in the town, was menaced with attack. The troops were sent for, but he did not wait for them, but hurried to the bazaar, which was filled with a roaring and fanatically roused mob of Mahomedans. The armed crowd rushed to meet him, and a few 66 peons (an undisciplined police), who were with him, fled in dismay. Some half-dozen sepoys of the Treasury Guard, who had also followed him, stood firm, but were immediately overwhelmed and cut down by the raging mob. One of the rioters cut at Macdonald with a sword, and the civilian, unarmed and helpless, was foully murdered, a Pathan butcher giving the last blow.

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The Mahomedans then seemed to be struck with sudden terror, and hastily dispersed, and when the troops arrived in hot haste, no living being was visible in the streets. The sole evidences of the outbreak were the bleeding corpses of Macdonald and of the few sepoys who fell by his side. Macdonald's body was carried to his house. His young wife survived him twentyone days only, and then died, broken-hearted, and was buried by the side of her murdered husband. After this sad event, many of the most respectable Mahomedan families fled from Cuddapah, to return no more. The inscription on the tomb of Macdonald and his wife is as follows:

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in the fearless and conscientious discharge of his duty,
to appease, by prompt and persuasive measures,
the fury of a fanatic rabble of Moormen,
assembled, on 15th of June 1832,
in the town of Cuddapah,
was, though completely unarmed,
attacked,

deserted by all his Peons,
and barbarously murdered.

And of

AGNES, HIS WIFE,

who survived him twenty-one days,
having died, on the 7th of July 1832, broken-hearted,
in the 20th year of her age.

"They were lovely in their lives, and in death shall not be separated."

It is strange that in this inscription no mention is made of the sepoys who fell in his defence, when all his peons deserted him and fled.

There is a strange story among the natives of Cuddapah relating to this affair.

It is that Mrs.

Macdonald, before she died, cursed the people of Cuddapah for the cruel murder of her husband, and that, ever since, the mortality of women in child-birth has been terribly greater than it used to be. Whatever may be the cause, it is certain that very great mortality in this particular way does take place among the inhabitants of the town.

On marching into Cuddapah, we were immediately introduced to one of the best features of the stationa very large swimming-bath at the mess-house, which was then, and ever afterwards, enthusiastically patro

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