sland, hundreds of vacant loungers have beyed her direction, in performing the tour of Wales." Previous to the ate war, a continental tour was deemed ecessary in the routine of education: at being checked, English excursions ere adopted, either with the laudable esire of improvement, or as a fashionble mode of killing time, and to furnish bject for winter prattle. Mr. Barber is one of the curious, if ot inquisitive, travellers. Few objects f antiquity, beauty, or grandeur, seem >have escaped his notice, or have been assed by without a brief characteristic escription. Being professionally an rtist, he naturally feels principally inrested in the "ivy clad ruin," the shattered castle," the "roaring cataact," and the beautiful, the picturesque, the sublime scenery. These are the bjects of his admiration and research, et he is not exclusively devoted to sem. Manners, customs, history, and eneral topography, are sometimes desanted on; and following the bad exmple of some preceding tourists, he has iven two or three specimens of the surrising and marvellous. The following historical particulars elating to the general history of South Vales, serve as an introduction to the vome: they are written in a concise, but Loquent style, and are highly creditable pecimens of the manner of writing dopted by our tourist. In making the tour of South Wales and Monmouthshire,' (Mr. Barber observes,) the admirer of picturesque beauty dwells ith peculiar pleasure on a tract of country, prising the greater part of Monmouth re, and bordering the Severn and Bristol hannel, to the western limits of Pembrokee. In this enchanting district, a succeson of bold hills, clothed with wild forests, 07 ornamental plantations and delightful ys, present themselves in constant variemany fine estuaries and rivers, pictuque towns, and princely ruins, also adorn the scene; whose charms are inconceivably lightened by the contiguity of the Bristol channel, which washes the coast; in some places receding into capacious bays; in hers, advancing into rocky promontories of the most imposing grandeur. The statistal enquirer finds equal subject of gratitation, in the uncommon fertility of sevevalleys, and the woody treasures of nuerous hills, bearing myriads of oaks, and other first rate timber-trees. The mineral wealth of the country, and its convenient cast for traffic, are likewise subjects of high consideration: and while the statist applauds the late rapid strides of manufactures and commerce in this district, he may discover sources hitherto latent for their increase. “The historian cannot fail of being inteBritons made their latest and most vigorous rested while treading on the ground where efforts for independence, against successive invaders; nor the antiquary, while traversing a country replete with monuments of the Druidical ages; military works of the Romans, Britons, Saxons, and Normans; and the venerable relics of numerous religious foundations. "Beyond this stripe of country, from ten to twenty miles in width, forming the mixture of rich scenery, (particularly in the southern extremity of Wales, and an interneighbourhood of Brecon) with prevailing dreariness: on the eastern frontier, South Wales exhibits a tedious extent of hills with out majesty, valleys over-run with peat bogs, and unprofitable moors. "Besides the superb ruins of St. David's, the scenery about the Devil's Bridge, it has the course of the Tivy, near Cardigan, and little to entice the attention of the tourist : the towns, for the most part, are miserably poor, and travelling accommodations very uncertain; the roads, too, are wretched beyond any thing that a mere English traveller ever witnessed. It is therefore, a subject of no small gratification, that the chief beauties of South Wales are found in a compact route; abounding with good towns, respectable accommodations, and very fair roads. This part of the country may be explored in a close carriage, though the better mode of travelling is certainly on horse-back. The pedestrian may claim peculiar advantages in his way of getting on; but I do not conceive, that a man enduring the fatigue of trudging, day after day, through miry roads, can maintain an exhilaration of spirits congenial with the beauties that surround him. The geographical situation, and present limits of Wales, are unnecessary to be here described. Of its history, the first certain accounts that we collect are on the invasion of the Romans, when Wales appears to have been divided into three principalities: the Silares, the Ordovices, and the Dimitæ. The Silures possessed all that tract of country bounded by the Severn, the Tame, and Tower; which comprehending the counties of Moumouth, Glamorgan, Brecknock, Radnor, Hereford, and part of Gloucester, Worcester, and Caermarthenshires, comprised the greater part of South Wales. The Dimite inhabited that part of South Wales westward of the Towey; and the Ordovices, North Wales, including Anglesea. 46 The Romans having subdued Britannia Primu, i. e. the southern part of England, advanced to the conquest of Wales, by them denominated Britannia Secunda, in this, however, they met with an unlcoked-for opposition; the inhabitants were vigorous and brave; and the country, wildly piled toge ther with mountains, forests, and morasses, presented an aggregation of difficulties, that would have discouraged a people less ardent in their enterprizes; nor did they succeed, until after a long warfare and a severe loss. The Silures and Dimitia fell under the yoke in the reign of Vespasian, when they were vanquished by Julius Frontinus. The Ordovices were not finally subdued until the time of his successor, Agricola, who according to Tacitus, exterminated the whole nation. "The Romans retained possession of this country until A. D. 408, when they withdrew their legions, and the most warlike of the British youth, for the defence of their central dominions. The inroads of the Scots and Picts, which immediately followed, do not appear to have materially affected the Welch; nor did the Saxons, though at constant war with them for several centuries, acquire any settled dominion in the country: yet they more than once partially over-ran Waics, obliging it to pay tribute; and in the reign of Edward the Confessor, Harold, at the head of a great army, entering Wales, defeated Prince Griffith, Sovereign of North Wales, and establishing himself at Gwent,* (Monmouthshire), began a palace at Portswit, which was, however, destroyed by Griffith before its completion. "From the departure of the Romans, in 408, to the inroads of the Anglo-Norman chieftains, in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, Wales was divided into numerous petty sovereignties, or lordships, of varying name and extent, but tributary to an imperial prince; though, sometimes that dignity was split into two or three branches. These chiefs were usually at war with each other, or with their princes, who seldom obtained tribute when their means of enforcing it was (were) questionable. "The Anglo-Norman dominion in Wales was brought about in a manner wholly different from former conquests. William the first and his successors, finding sufficient employment in securing their English possessions, invited their chiefs, holding lands in the neighbourhood of Wales, to make incursions against the Welch lords, upon their separate interests. The Norman leaders thereupon, by creating feuds among the native powers, siding with one or the other party, and breaking with them on convenient opportunities, contrived to fix themselves in various parts of Wales; whence their conquests, extending by degrees, overspread the greater part of the country. The lands thus obtained, became the property of the conquerors, who, under the title of lords marchers, were allowed to exercise an uncontrolled jurisdiction within their demesnes: but power acquired on such principles could only be retained by force: every petty des et secured himself a fortress, and hence arise the extraordinary number of CASTLES W which Wales is crowded, amounting, ac cording to a native authors† to one hunii and forty three. The Welch princes st held a considerable tract of country, fi quently overthrew the intruders, and eve carried their arms into England; but in the defeat of the brave Llewelyn, by Edward the first, Wales lost every remnant of its inde pendance, and became definitively united to the crown of England. "In the reign of Henry the eighth, Wale was divided into twelve shires, and Met mouthshire was included among the Engine connies; the feudal despotism of the b marchers was then abolished; and W participating in the equal shelter of Enge jurisprudence, has proved itself as zealous defending the common interest of the emp as it was formerly conspicuous in strugg for its particular freedom." history and antiquity which distinguish Among the numerous memorials ct Wales, castles and religious building possess the chief claim to attention; arc, as Wales is an admirable field for ti study of the civil and military architec ture that prevailed in the middle age, Mr. Barber gives a slight sketch of the progress of those arts, so far as it seems applicable to the present purpose. This subject is highly interesting, and o author has evidently made it an obje." of much study. "On the overthrow of the Romans by Goths and Vandals," Mr. Barber observes, the arts vanished before the scourge of w... and the standard mode of architecture whica adorned the Greek and Roman empire, could no longer be executed in its ori perfection. The general forms, indeed, wen imitated, but without an observance of sm metry; the execution was rough and clun sy the pillars were excessively thick, and arches heavy; and where ornament was tempted the performance was very unco Such was the state of architecture (a rac corruption of the Roman) that succeeded devastations of the Goths, and has be called Saron and Norman: the term Gothic however, would certainly be more appr priate. "At the beginning of the twelfth century a new style of architecture made its app ance, distinguished by pointed arches clustered columns. Though at first colch received, and but sparingly introduced ar the rounded arches and massive colum. called Saxon, it soon gained an undisputa footing." The Saxons at this period are supposed to have occupied Monmouth, Chepstow, Ca went, and Caerleon. ↑ Mr. Pennant. Mr. Barber has subjoined a note on this subject, which we gladly extract, as partly coincident with our own ideas. The common appellation of this mode, Gothic, is equally improper with the preceding, as the reign of the Goths was at an end long before its introduction: indeed its origin is wrapped in obscurity. Sir Christopher Wren, and after him many architects nd antiquaries, have attributed it to the Saracens, and hence called it Saracenic; but their grounds are very questionable Perhaps the homely conjecture, that it arose from the pointed form in the interes ecting Saxon arches, may be as near the truth as one derived from mcre laborious researches ; indeed, from the specimens of early Gothic which I have seen, I am of opinion, that cent reasons may be adduced, to prove it rather to be of natural growth from the Saxon modes, and formed in its characteristics by gradual alteration, than a new system of renote and detached origin." This we apprehend might be easily lucidated. It is a curious subject and requires much attention. The many wild theories, and fantastic opinions, that have been promulgated, concerning ancent architecture, are sad examples of ispent time, and perverted talents. ilad the writers studied more to inform their readers. than merely to amuse themlves, we should not have had to latent the ambiguity that bewilders this bject at the present day. The term Gothic has long been improperly and indiciously applied to that light and negant architecture which characterises ost of the English cathedrals: but we e happy to find that a few indepenkat, unprejudiced writers have dared explode the name, and have substited the word English, at once creditale to the country, and, at the same he, well applied to characterise a style building, which if it did not absoluteriginate in this island, was advanced a system and symmetry here, unknown the Continent. We wish to be unirstood as applying the term English, that architecture which prevailed in recclesiastical buildings, from the urteenth to the sixteenth century. Sir hristopher Wren, and some contempory architects, applied the term Gothic expressive of contempt for all buildings not erected conformable to the rules Palladio. As science and human knowledge advances, writers acquire an mproved and critical accuracy of lanAn iron grate, with spikes at the bottom, guage; and proper approved terms are employed and universally credited. By this mode, precise ideas are communicated, and for want of this critical precision, has originated much confusion, error, and bewildering uncertitude. Mr. Barber continues this subject, and observes that "About the latter end of the reign of Henry the third, we find it acquire a more ornamental and distinct character. The pillars which before were round, and encircied with slender detached shafts, were then formed in entire reeded columns; the arched roofs also, which only exhibited the main springers, then became intersected with numerous ramifications and transomes. The decorations continued to encrease until toward the close of Henry the eighth's reign, when the light of science again dawned over Europe, and the relics of Greece and Rome were rightly considered as models of genuine taste the classic elegance of the five orders then appeared intermixed with the Gothic; it soon became universal, and is now adopted in all superior buildings throughout Europe. Further characteristics of style might be pointed out, and lesser variations defined: but I do not presume to inform the antiquary; and the distinctions already drawn will be sufficient for the cursory tour ist. figure, except such as were founded by the "Castles appear of no generally chosen Romans, who preferred that of an oblong square, unless there were special reasons to the contrary. Small castles consisted of a single court, or ward, whose sides were usually flanked by towers. The great hall, chapel, and domestic apartments, built from the outer wall into the court, occupied one or more sidus. The citadel, called also the strength, wherein the garrison made their keep and dungeon, was a tower of eminent last stand, and where prisoners were sometimes confined: the citadel was often detached from the walls, and built on an artifical mound, encircled with a ditch. The barracks for the soldiers in garrison was generally a range of building near the gate house, or principal entrance. The latter of the castle, and the portal was furnished building contained apartments for the officers with one, two or three portcullisses*. A wet or dry moat surrounded the whole; and advanced before the drawbridge which crossed it, there was often an out-work called a barbican. Large castles were only a repeti tion of these courts, upon somewhat of a larger scale, connected with each other: (Chepstow castle consists of four). In for battled wall sometimes encircled the mass of resses of the first class, an extensive emfortification already described, at some distance, enclosing a considerable tract of ground, as at Caerphilly in Glamorganshire. which was let down after the gate was forced. Castle walls appear in some instances built of solid masonry, but their general coustruction is of grout work. For this purpose, two slight walls were built parallel, from six to twelve feet asunder: the interval was then filled up with loose stones and rubbish, and the whole cemented together with a great quantity of fluid (according to some authors, boiling) mortar: the mass soon acquired a sufficient firmness, and in the present day it possesses the adhesion of solid rock. This method was used by the Romans, and adopted by succeeding ages; but the arches were turned, and the angles coigned with hewn stones, which, after the conquest, were brought from Caen in Normandy." These observations are evident proofs that Mr. Barber has not been inattentive, or indolent, in his researches. At the -same time we perceive some confusion of ideas in his description of castles, which would have been avoided had he been familiar with the works of Horsley, Roy, and King, and compared and corrected their accounts with remaining castrametations and castles. These were different places of retreat, security, and defence: many of the former were never castellated,and many have most probably been successively occupied and altered by Britons, Romans, Saxons, Danes, and English. This, like the subject of ancient architecture, has been more bewildered by theorists, than elucidated by men of science and talent. Many false and absurd descriptions and plates have been copied and re-copied, almost ad infinitum, tending to generate_error and propagate falshood." Mr. Barber relates an instance in himself: "Several years ago, the observes) when I first set about castle-hunting, I endeavoured in vain to discover a relation between what I saw, and the description with a figure of an ancient castle, laid down in Grose's Antiquities, and copied by others. I have since seen the greater part of the principal ruins in South Britain; and the only castles that occur to me as approaching to that gentleman's plan, are those of Dover and London. I mention this, because persons building a theory on the authorities above mentioned, might, among ruins, be puzzled, to no purpose, for a practical illustration." The following description of Caermarthen will amuse those who know the town, convey some information to the stranger, and at the same time characterize the author's manner of treating this province of his work. "The situation of CAERMARTHEN, ore of the most wealthy and polite towns Wales, can scarcely be enough admired, rising above a noble river, and commanding a full view of one of the most beautiful vales in the kingdom. Internally there is less t commend, as most of the streets are very steep, and irregularly built: yet there are many good private houses belonging to the neighbouring gentry, that resort here in the winter months; and a handsome town-hall, and some other buildings, do credit to the public spirit of the town, though a solitary church may reflect but little on its sanctity Very small remains of the castle, now bui up into a gaol, appear, or of the walls that formerly encompassed the town. The tre river, which conveys ships of a good size ty of the place is much facilitated by its fis to the bridge. "Caermarthen is the Kaervyrdkin of the Britons, the Maridunum of Ptolomy, ani the Muridunum of Antoninus. The ancient Britons reckoned it the capital of all Wales: blies of wise men; and here fixed ther here they held their parliaments, or ass.m mans over-ran Wales, this town sever chancery and exchequer. When the Norfelt the miseries of war, being often b sieged, and twice burnt by the Weh princes. Gilbert, earl of Clare, however, length fixed his power at Caermarthen, be yond the reach of their attempts. This place gave birth to the famous Merlin in the year 480: he appears to have been a man of exdoubt, occasioned him to be looked upo traordinary wisdom and learning, which, ne a magician in that dark age, and transmitti as such to posterity by monkish writers, who always looked with an evil eye on krea ledge possessed out of their craft. Het also was born Lewes Bayley, chaplain James the First, afterwards bishop of Pangor, and author of the celebrated Practice of Piety." New Passage, and the historical a With the following description of the dote of Charles the First connected with it, we must close our account of t tour, which has certainly afforded much amusement, and the general exe cution of which is commendable. "Proceeding through an agreeable und lating tract towards the sea-shore, we ser arrived at the New PASSAGE, the princi entrance into Monmouthshire from th south-western counties. The breadth of w ter from this place to the Bristol coast. three miles and a half, while the ferry Aust, or the Old Passage, four or five mi higher up the Severn, is only two mi be over-balanced by the more commodice across; but this advantage is considered landing at the former. Both these concerns being monopolies, like all other monopolic are hostile to the interest of e public; fa there being no competition for preference between the boatmen, they are extremely rude in their manners, indifferent to the accommodation of the public, and by no means unpractised in various arts of extortion. But these exclusive privileges have existed from time immemorial. The title of the New Passage arose from its renewal in the year 1718, after an abolition in consequence of the following remarkable incident. "Charles the First being pursued by a strong party of his enemies through Share Newton, got into a boat at the Black Rock (the New Passage), and was ferried to the opposite shore. His pursuers, to the number of sixty, with drawn swords, compelled other boatmen belonging to the passage to ferry them after him; but these being in the king's interest, landed them on a reef of rocks in the Severn, called the English Stones, near the Gloucestershire coast, to which they were instructed to ford: indeed, the strait was fordable at low water, but the tide flowing in very rapidly, they were all drowned in the attempt, and the king for that time escaped. Cromwell, informed of the transaction, abolished the ferry; nor was it renewed, until after a long chancerysuit between an ancestor of the present proprietor, Mr. Lewes of St. Pierre, and the guardians of his grace the duke of Beaufort, proprietor of Aust ferry." ART. XVI. Remarks upon North Wales, being the Result of Sixteen Tours through that Part of the Principality. By W. HUTTON, F. A. S. S. &c. 8vo. pp. 236. THIS respectable veteran author claimed our notice, and merited our praise, (vol. I. p. 468,) for his history of the Roman Wall; and we would gladly extend our commendations to the present work, if we could do it consistently with our duty to the public. As age creeps on, second childhood" often ensues; and it is a general characteristic of cheerful old age, to be triflingly garrulous, and to make self the theme of almost every tale. land, brought her into notice. The English traveller at length ventured to climb her precipices, descend her glens, and admire her curiosities: and now the vast influx of annual visitants enrich her with their wealth. If the fathers oppressed her, their children support her. The volume before us abounds in tedious repetitions of events and circumstances relating only to the author and Lis family; but it contains very little of useful or engaging information concerning the history, antiquities, or scenery ing the history, antiquities, or scenery of North Wales. These are subjects which we were entitled to look for, and ot finding them, are entitled to comlain. New books should develope mething useful, interesting, or enteraining, otherwise the purchaser is not nly robbed of his time, but of his purhase money. Mr. Hutton seeks to suply one of these desiderata, in extraorinary stories, anecdotes, or laconic witcisms: but when these subjects form he principal part of a book, it should ave some other title, and not be denoninated a Tour. In the following exract is comprized the author's preface, nd all his explanation about his work. In former ages the English rarely enred Wales, but to destroy it. Her sovemountains, beautiful rallies, and surwing cascades, instead of being admired, ere tinged with blood. Nor was the eye of the curious fascinated with her wonders ill within the last fifty years. The improverent of her roads, and particularly the daily communications between England and IreANN. REV. VOL. II. Though the world is frequently favoured with WELSH tours, Yet the historical knowledge is but in its infancy: If much is said,-much remains." Mr. Hutton proceeds to say that he does not follow the footsteps of any author, but made those "remarks only which fell under his own eye, in travelling sixteen times, in various directions, cimen of the author's manner of dethrough that principality." As a spescribing a town, we select the following, under the head of Ludlow, a large town of Shropshire:-"I thought it abounded with female beauty; but every place exhibits handsome women, when dressed for church on Sunday." relates as a fact: but relates it in so The following strange story Mr. H. strange a manner as to excite our suspicion. "In my first day's journey I passed through Machyntleth, a handsome open town, and on to Mallwyd, thirty-two miles: in my way, weary and heated, I stepped into a miserable hut, consisting of one small and black room, the floor native earth, and the sole light was admitted by the door which had just admitted me. I sat down with all the freedom of an owner, gave a smile and a nod to the inaster, for to speak was needless. He looked pleasant, and without a word brought me a mess of butter-milk. This I could have relished, but was too much heated. I afterwards, where I could be understood, mentioned this union of poverty E e |