APPENDIX I.

TRAVELLING IN PERSIA.

Ir may not, perhaps, be unadvisable if I now say a word for the benefit of those of my readers who may wish hereafter to travel in Persia. There are only two ways of travelling in Persia; one is to ride "chuppur" right through the country, and try to beat every one who has ever gone before you. By this means you will cover a great deal of ground, take in very little of the country, see nothing of the people, and arrive at your destination in a condition something between a skinned eel and a boiled lobster. In order to do this, you have only got to arrive at Resht or Bushuhr, and taking an equipment of the Napierian order, get on to your "chuppur" horse, and whack him and spur him till your arms ache and your spurs are a mass of blood. Repeat this as many times as you can in the twenty-four hours, and every day for about a fortnight, and you will be about as glad to see the sea at the other end as Zenophon's warriors were. If one is pressed for time, and yet does not wish to go by the usual weary round by Aden, Suez and Brindisi, I would strongly recommend this trip, as I think it is far better to see even this little of the country than none at all. Some men have, of course, the faculty of observation strong within them, and such will, no doubt, profit by their ride; and as for others, time will draw a veil over the disagreeables of the trip, nature will, no doubt, soon replace any expended cuticle and restore the tone of an outraged digestion, and they will be able to record "it is awfully jolly." The other is, to march with either hired or purchased cattle. Horses for riding had better be purchased; mules can be hired almost anywhere, and besides, if they are paid well, the muleteers are grand fellows, and will go anywhere. First, as to outfit, I may as well say what I had, as I made out my list before starting, from a large experience of similar work, and I found it suited exactly, being neither too much nor too little. The best sort of hat is undoubtedly a Terai hat, as it wants no care to keep in shape, and affords excellent shade for the face. Round this I tied, first, a small piece of mosquito net, big enough to cover the face and hands, and enable one to get an hour or two's snooze after the march was over; second, a silk turban loosely stuffed with

cotton wool, which on occasion I used as a comforter. The turban rolled up and stuffed inside the hat, makes the latter an excellent pillow. Next, I think, a pair of clouded glass spectacles-made in two pieces, to cover the side of the eyes as well as the front-are quite indispensable if the journey is to be made in the hot weather, as the glare, in crossing the salt or sandy or barren wastes, is sometimes very trying.

You may suit yourself as to coat, provided it is loose and has lots of pockets. I always used a light loose coat, made like a "Derby wrapper," with six pockets. Some people prefer breeches, but though very nice when actually riding, they are not so generally useful as a pair of wellmade riding trousers. I had two pairs, and they just lasted me through. Of flannel shirts four will be enough, and a couple of white ones for swell occasions, and I had six pairs of strong linen drawers, which did for bathing as well as ordinary wear. One has little need for much walking, unless one is going in for shooting, in which case, of course, it will be advisable to take some pairs of thick woollen socks.

I had two pairs of strong brown leather walking boots, one pair of black boots with box heels, and a pair of soft brown leather gaiters, and a cherished pair of hunting spurs which have clung to me for twenty long years, and been stuck into many a gallant and many a white-livered steed.

Though some anonymous friend has been good enough to pitch into me for using my uniform on one occasion, let me recommend any one to take an undress suit with them. You must go and pay your respects to the various governors and officials, as it is not only right, but expedient, that you should be civil to them, else, as in other parts of the world, they will not be civil to you; and remember that if a swell takes it into his head to be rude, it is not only his boorishness you have to meet, but that of all his hangers' on. I would also recommend your taking a suit of decent clothes, with a black coat, for use when you are halting at the larger places. It is just as necessary to be able to look respectable on occasions in Persia as anywhere else.

This completes the list of clothes. Besides, I had a small Indian sleeping tent, weighing about 70lbs.; but the people in Persia are everywhere so civil, that you will very seldom require to pitch it. I think, therefore, if I went again, I would only take a sort of awning, made like those used on boats, which gives just enough shade to cover you when sitting up writing, or lying down to read.

In the way of bedding, the best thing to have under you is a sack of strong Russia duck, stuffed with chopped straw, which is procurable in every village in Persia. It forms a most comfortable bed, and when you start you can empty the contents and pack it up with your other bedding. Of this I had three good blankets, and a fur coat. In the summer it is seldom cold enough to require all these, but in the spring and autumn the nights are sharp, especially if you have to sleep in the open. I had, in addition, a Scotch cap, and a pair of chamois leather sleeping socks. I

bought in the Caucasus a "bashlek" or hood, which I always mean to take with me in future. For pillows I used two bags stuffed with flannel shirts, towels, &c., which, on the march, were slung over my spare horse in a Khorzeen. All the rest of my bedding, except the blankets, was rolled up in a strong waterproof sheet, 8ft. by 4ft., with double straps.

In saddlery, I had two good hunting saddles with any amount of dittos, and each, with a couple of saddlebags and two broad English girths, made short for the small horses one gets. I had two good English headstalls, and I brought out English reins and bits; but I soon discarded these last for the country ones, which are, in my opinion, much more convenient. To each headstall I had one of the beautiful strong silk ropes with a bit of Toorkmun chain, and an iron picketing peg. The blankets I strapped on in a roll before and behind (by the way, take lots of straps, as a Persian is quite unable to resist their annexation). In one of the saddlebags I carried my own breakfast, in the other a feed for my horse. Inside one blanket I carried a towel, comb, tooth-brush, and a bit of soap; inside the other, a pair of loose drawers and a pair of slippers; and attached to my near saddlebag was a small sabretache containing maps, a few sheets of paper, and mapping materials.

For arms I carried a sword and a pistol, and I had, besides, a couple of Snider carbines and a breech-loading gun, which my servants carried. Of instruments, I had with me a couple of prismatic compasses and two aneroid barometers, and I would recommend, also, a couple of hypsometers and pocket sextants. I had a pair of binoculars which I never used, and a beautiful telescope, which probably saved my skin from the prick of a Toorkmun lance once, if not twice.

I took with me a Bombay Portuguese servant, who cooked, talked English, and did everything. To say he was of the greatest use to me is to give but a faint idea of his qualities; suffice it to say, he was simply worth his weight in gold. I had first three, then two, then one Persian servant, and found invariably, whether in twos, or threes, or single, they were utterly useless. Still it is a good thing to have one or two to look after your horses and run messages.

I think that is all, excepting some cooking pots, some enamelled iron plates, knives and forks, and a few books. All this made two mule loads; but as some of the marches were very long, and without water, and it is absolutely necessary to mount all your servants, and certainly to let one of your muleteers have a ride occasionally, I never regretted having gone in for, and kept up all through my journey, six mules. I had no stores but tea and sugar and tobacco, and I never found the want of them. A good cook is what is wanted, and he is not heavier to carry than a bad one. Liquor of any kind I never do care for much, and so I did without any with comfort.

APPENDIX II.

From Beeabunnuck to Semnan there are two roads, viz., from Khoor1. Faruckhi, 3 farsangs, 40 houses, water few supplies, level over Kuveer.

2. Jandak, 3 farsangs, water, village, few supplies, road level over earth.

3. Pesh-i-Giaza, 9 farsangs, level 1 farsang, 2 farsangs between hills, then over sand, water and supplies.

4. Hoosenoo, 30 farsangs Kuveer, water and supplies.

From this the road goes to Semnan thus: Chah Shoran 8 farsangs, Semnan 9 farsangs, water. To Damghan the road goes from Hoosenoo to Reshm 2 farsangs, Gola-Ki 3 farsangs; road is very bad over hills called Koo-Tunga, water and villages. Forot 10 farsangs. The road is level over earth, village. Thence Damghan is 5 farsangs through villages and cultivation. This road is a good deal used in winter by caravans of camels.

Khoor to Biarjoomund :—

1. Sar-Chah, 2 farsangs, water, few supplies. The road is level. 2. Arasoon, 6 farsangs, water, hamlet. Road level.

3. In Kuveer, 10 farsangs, no water.

4. In Kuveer, 10 farsangs, no water.

5. Túrút, 10 farsangs, all Keveer, water, small village.

6. Sar-Chah, 7 farsangs, road level, water.

7. Biarjoomund, 7 farsangs, road level, water half way between Túrút and Biarjoomund: there is a range to go over between, but the pass is easy.

1. Halt anywhere, all Kuveer, except 1 farsang of sand, no water. 2. Peer Hajat, 30 farsangs, water, large villages in a valley, road level. 3. Duhan-i-Mambar, 5 farsangs. The road goes over a pass, which is easy. Water.

4. Dusht-Girdu, 5 farsangs. The road is level, no hills, water, supplies, many villages.