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out, but the increase of water obtained was very great; as inftead of the well difcharging thirty gallons in a minute, the water was now increased to forty-fix gallons in the fame time.

"If you think, fir, that the above account of an overflowing well, the joint production of na

ture and art, is deferving your at
tention, I feel myself much grati-
fied in the pleafure I have in giv.
ing you this defcription of it; and
have the honour of being with the
greatest regard,
"Sir, &c.

"B. VULLIAMY,"

ECONOMY of the VINEYARDS of the celebrated TOKAY WINE. [From TowNSON'S TRAVELS in HUNGARY, &c.]

"THE vines when first planted pot, to

within a fpan of the foil, and the fuperfluous young fhoots are cut off every spring at the fame place: by this means a head is formed, which increases yearly; fometimes they are very large, but the best fize is that of a child's head. When the vines have repaid by their fruit the industrious labourer for his trouble, which is late in autumn, the ftumps are covered an inch or two thick with foil, and then each represents a mole-hill. Often, it is faid, the hufbandman is feen following his gatherers occupied in this work, left early froft or fnow fhould prevent its being done; fometimes even the branches, if defigned for layers, are covered. Some vine-dreffers take out the fticks and lay them in bundles, others leave them ftanding. As foon as the winter is over, and the weather begins to grow milder, which is about the middle of March, and often at the beginning, the ftumps are again uncovered, and the foil about them turned up: this labour is followed by the dreffing, which is generally done as foon as the feafon will permit;

that is, at the end of March, or at the beginning of April. Time, fe

vere winters, and fpring frofts, caufe ravages in the vineyards: to make good thefe deficiencies, fresh vines must be raised. This is done in different ways, by tranfplanting, and more commonly by planting the cuttings of known good and found vines; and this is the next business to be performed. The cutting (the points of which foon withering must be cut away) fhould be put knee-deep in the foil, with a little dung, the other end to be only a fpan above ground, which fhould be covered up till it is probable it has begun to fhoot, and the fpring weather is no longer to be feared. Or they are railed by layers. Here the foil is dug out from about the ftump and roots till the hole is a foot and a half deep; thefe then are trod to the bottom of it, fo that the branches, where they are inferted in the ftump, are under ground, and the remaining part is laid down and covered with the foil mixed with a little dung, fo that their points only reach, a few inches above the furface of the foil. To each of thefe branches, which in time be

comes

comes a new vine, a stick is given. Then follows the fevereft labour of the vineyard, the digging or turning up the foil: this is repeated three or four times before the vintage. Soon after the first digging, the ticks are driven in, to which the fhoots, when they are about two feet long, are lightly bound: when they are grown to five feet they are better bound, once pretty faft above, and once loofer in the middle. Weeds by this time again begin to grow, and the foil is again turned up to deftroy them, and to keep it light: but during the flowering of the vine nothing is done; nature is left entirely to herfelf. This being over, the sticks are driven firm er in the ground; the vines which may have come untied are better fecured; the too luxurious growth is taken away, and the vines are fo ordered that they may require no farther care till the vintage; only the foil is once more turned up. Now the hufbandman's toil is over, and he waits for the bleffing of Providence in a fine vintage-with anxiety-for very uncertain are his profits.

"Though in warm feafons the earliest grapes are ripe in the middle of Auguft, it is the latter end of September before the greater part are eatable; and as the grapes for preffing muft be fully ripe, the vintage is delayed as long as poffible; generally to the feaft of Saint Simon and Saint Jude, which is the 28th of October; and if the weather is fine, the later the better, on account of having the great er quantity of the half-dried lufcious grapes, or, as they are here called, troken-beers; which are abfolutely neceffary to form the aufbruche, that kind of Tokay wine which is fo much esteemed, and

which is called by us Tokay. As foon as the grapes begin to grow ripe, guards are placed in the vineyards, not only to prevent the grapes from being ftolen, but to drive away the birds from them.

"At laft the feason of rejoicing comes, the vintage. In every country this is time of mirth and gaiety; but particularly fo about Tokay. Many of the great nobility, though they have no eftate here, and live in diftant parts of Hungary, have a vineyard here, and bufinefs as well as pleasure brings many of them at this feafon; and the dealers in this article come likewise to make their contracts, and the friends of all concerned, from a tacit invitation, come to join in the general festivity: the vintage is preceded by fairs, fo that during this season all is life and bustle.

"To the troken-beers, or halfdried lufcious grapes, Tokay, that is, the Tokay aufbruche, is indebted for all its richness: but these depend greatly on the weather; every year does not produce them either in the fame quantity or quality; in fome years they fail altogether. If the frofty mornings fet in too foon, and, before the grapes are ripe, deftroy the connection between them and the vines, the aufbruche is harsh and four; yet frosty mornings, when not too foon, are advantageous to them: if wet weather fets in at the time they ought, through the influence of the fun, to lofe their watery parts, and to. be turned to fyrup, it may easily be conceived what will be the confequence. Thefe troken-beers are always trifling in quantity compared with the other grapes; and in fome years, as I have juft faid, there are none at all.

"The season for gathering being come,

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come, young and old, with merry hearts and active hands, repair to the vineyards, and eafe the vines of their precious loads; but in doing this the troken-beers are picked from the reft, and kept apart; and they are often fold to thofe who make aufbruche, by those who do not. The fpoil carried home, the ordinary grapes are trod apart, and the juice is taken out, and then the remaining juice is preffed out from the ikins and ftalks; both are commonly put together in tubs, no difference being generally made between the juice trod out and that preffed out. This when fermented forms the common wine; which is not fent out of the country as a delicacy, and never reaches our ifland. The troken-beers are like wife trod, and then have the confiftency of honey to this is added the common juice; and as the rich nefs of the aufbruche or mafchlafs depends on the greater quantity of the juice of the troken-beers, the proportions vary according to the intent of the owner. The common proportion for an antal of aufbruche, which contains feventeen or eighteen English gallons, is two bufhel of troken-beers; and for a cafk of mafchlafs, which is only a lefs rich liquor, the fame quantity is taken: but then the cafk is about equal to two antals; fo that only half the quantity of troken-beers are used to make mafchlafs as are ufed to make aufbruche. But as the police does not interfere in this matter, and every one does as he thinks proper, these two liquors are often very near alike, and the principal difference then confifts in the fize of the cafks.

"The mixture being made, it is ftrongly stirred together. By this operation the feeds are feparated from the flesh of the grapes, and

come to the top, and are taken out with a net or fieve: thus it remains in the fame veffel, covered over for a couple of days, till fermentation begins; and this is fuffered to continue about three days, according to the weather; that is, till the fermentation has properly mixed the fleshy pulp of the troken-beers with the common juice: it fhould be stirred every morning and evening, and the feeds carefully taken out. If the fermentation is continued too long, the wine receives from the fkins a difagreeable brown colour, and forms a deal of yeast and sediment in the cask. Nothing now remains to be done, but to pour this liquor through a cloth or sieve into the barrels in which it is to be kept. The refiduum is then preffed: fome even after this, pour the common juice upon this preffed refiduum; but if the prefs is good the common wine gains little by it.

"When a confiderable, quantity of the troken-beers remains a fhort time together, fome of their thick juice or fyrup is expreffed and runs out: this is carefully collected as a great delicacy; it is called effence, and has the confiftence of treacle. No art is used to fine thefe wines, nor to make them keep. The bar rels fhould be kept full, and their outfides free from wet and mildew.

"Aufbruche is not exclusively made about Tokay; there is a Saint George, a Ratchdorf, and a me nifche aufbruche, and this latter I prefer to that of Tokay; it is red; fome is made likewife in the county of Oedenberg.

"The best wine does not long remain in the place of its growth: a great part of it is foon fent into the cellars of the nobility in other parts of Hungary; and the greatest quantity is to be found in the coun

ties of Zips and Liptau in the North, from whence it is fent into Poland. The Polish magnates are the beft customers, particularly for the auf bruche, which is the dearest European wine that is: here in the country, a bottle of the best is valued always at about a ducat, that is, near half-a-guinea. I dined once at the coffee-houfe at Pest with a few friends: we had only a plain dinner, for which we paid but a moderate price: befides common wine we had fome Tokay: when the waiter came to be paid, he afked each how many glaffes he had

drank of it, and then added twenty creutzers (about eight-pence) for each glafs to the fcot of every drinker of Tokay.Tokay is no doubt a fiue wine, but I think no ways adequate to its price: there are few of my countrymen, except on account of its fcarcenefs, who would not prefer to it good claret or Burgundy, which do not coft above one-fourth of the price. Some of the fweetifh Spanish wines, begging its pardon, are in my opinion equally good; and uulefs it be very old, it is too fweet for an Englishman's palate."

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ACCOUNT of the FERMENT for BREAD ufed at DEBRETZIN.
[From the fame Work.]

"LIGHTER,
IGHTER, whiter, and bet-
ter flavoured bread than
that made here I never ate; nor
did I ever fee elsewhere fuch large
loaves. Were I not afraid of being
accufed of taking advantage of the
privilege of travellers, I fhould fay
they were nearly half a yard cubed.
As this bread is made without yeast,
about which fuch a hue and cry is
often raised, and with a fubftitute
which is a dry mafs, that may be
eafily tranfported, and kept half a
year or more, I think it may be of
nfe to my country, for me to detail
the Debretzin art of making bread.
The ferment is thus made: two
good handfulls of hops are boiled
in four quarts of water; this is
poured upon as much wheaten bran
as can be well moiftened by it; to
this are added four or five pounds
of leaven; when this is only warm,
the mafs is well worked together to
mix the different parts. This mafs
is then put in a warm place for

twenty-four hours, and after that it is divided into fmall pieces about the fize of a hen's egg or a fmall orange, which are dried by being placed upon a board and expofed to a dry air, but not to the fun; when dry they are laid by for ufe, and may be kept half a year. This is the ferment, and it is to be used in the following manner: for a baking of fix large loaves, fix good handfulls of thefe balls are taken and diffolved in feven or eight quarts of warm water. This is poured through a fieve into one end of the bread-trough, and three quarts more of warm water are poured through the fieve after it, and what remains in the fieve is well preffed out: this liquor is mixed up with fo much flour as to form a mafs of the fize of a large loaf: this is ftrewed over with flour, the fieve with its contents put upon it, and then the whole is covered up warm, and left till it has

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rifen

rifen enough, and its furface has begun to crack: this forms the leaven. Then fifteen quarts of warm water, in which fix handfulls of falt have been diffolved, are poured through the fieve upon it, and the neceffary quantity of flour is added, and mixed and kneaded with the leaven; this is covered up warm, and left for about an hour. It is then formed into loaves, which are kept in a

warm room half an hour; and after that they are put in the oven, where they remain two or three hours according to the fize. The great advantage of this ferment is, that it may be made in great quantities at a time, and kept for ufe. Might it not on this account be ufeful on board of fhips, and likewife for armies when in the field ?"

The EFFECTS of BENEFICENCE more extenfive than are foreseen, or intended, illuftrated in the STORY of DR. CLEMENT.

"MR.

[From the PHILANTHROPE.]

R. Eden of Wildrofe-hall had made his fortune in India. A very short time before his return to England, having feen at Calcutta an amiable and beautiful young lady, the coufin and companion of lady Alwin, the wife of colonel Alwin; and never confidering her fmall or no dowry as any objection, he asked and received her hand. He regarded her beauty, amiable difpofitions, and elegant accomplish-, ments as fufficient dowry; nor was he difappointed in his choice, for fhe was as deferving as he was fair. On his return to Britain, he purchased a fine house and extenfive park in the western part of Ef fex; and having nothing wherewithal to accuse himself during his refidence in the Eaft, and being therefore as easy in mind as in ex⚫ternal circumftances, he flattered himself with the profpect of happinefs.

"One dark autumnal evening, foon after he had taken poffeffion of his villa, while fitting in his parlour during a dreadful ftorm of rain, thunder, and lightning, a

poft-chaife drove up to his door; and a fervant informed him, that an old gentleman wifhed for permiffion to pass the night in his house. He learned too that the ftranger was just come from the Continent; that he was on his way from Colchefter to London; that the driver, not well acquainted with the country, and confounded with the violence of the tempeft, had mistaken the lane that led to Wildrofe-hall for the road to Rumford; and that the gentleman was fo very ill, that he could not venture to go even as far as the nearest inn. It is needlefs to say that he was received with the kindeft welcome. For, befides that Mr. Eden's humanity would have fo inclined him; there was fomething particularly interefting in the gray hair, dignified cou rage, open countenance, and dejected air of the ftranger. He remained fome days at the hall till he fomewhat recovered, and in that time the prepoffeffions of Eden in his behalf grew into strong attach ment.

"I have been indeed unfortu nate,'

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