the bald rocky summits of Y Fan-llia and Y Fan-nedd, like guardian giants of the district over which I was travelling. That portion of the great Strata Montana, known by the name of Sarn Helen, traverses for a considerable length of way the same elevated direction; but the track of the haughty Roman diverges off westerly, near to a great stone, called Maenllia, that is conspicuously placed on this spot, and gradually descends on the south side of the pleasant vale of Senni, towards the point where it joins the Julia Strata, on its road to the great station of Gaer. My path bent in an easterly direction, and brought me to the head of the precipitous dingle of Cwm-du, through which it passes, skirted on the right by the lofty mountain-ridge of Y Fanfrynach, nearly up to the town of Brecknock. Fatigued by the difficult road I had been for some time traversing, and wearied with the stern aspect of those eternal rocks, I determined to sojourn here awhile, and seek the genial relief of a day's placid retreat to the rich valley of the Usk. I rose early; for to me a morning in waning autumn yields the greatest enjoyment, which the seasons, in their ceaseless revolution, afford. There is a peculiar freshness in the early air, which animates the spirits, and raises up pleasant images in the mind "It fans the feverish brow, And cheerily re-illumes the lambent flame of life." There is a rich composure in the manifold colours of the forest leaves, and a mellow harmony, that naturally belong to the time of the year, all of which throw their influence over the feelings. Besides this, in an autumn UPPER VALE OF THE USK. 303 day are those frequent changes, which possess an ineffable charm for the wayward mind. The copious dews of the prime are sometimes dispersed by the rising sun, darting his intermittent ray through the opening lids of the morning clouds, like the bright eye of some heavenly being, and pouring a flood of light from his molten fountain, with an intensity and a fierceness which midsummer fails to bring. Then there is the uncertain wind, which sweeps in sudden and capricious gusts, scattering the bright leaves, and whirling them in eddies all around; there is the drizzling shower, pattering monotonously, but not unmusically, amongst the forest trees; and then, not unfrequently, there is the wild tempest to close up the evening. The river Usk rises in the mountain-range called the Carmarthenshire Fan, which divides the counties at their westerly point, near Trecastle. From this place it rolls its tide in an easterly course towards Brecknock and Crickhowel, where it enters the county of Monmouth, and, passing by the towns of Abergavenny, Usk, Caerleon, and Newport, empties itself through its estuary into the Severn. The lower vale is the most luxuriant and romantic; but the passage of the river from Trecastle to the town in which I was sojourning, or along the Upper Vale, as it is called, has its own peculiar beautics. The road from Trecastle runs on the right of the river, sometimes rising in the form of a terrace above it, and again tracing its undulating line by the side of its silvery stream, sharing in all the beauties of its devious course. The Cray and the Isker pour their waters into its channel before it reaches Brecknock. The pleasant villages of Llanspyddid and Aberisker may be seen from its banks; and the Roman encampment on a rising ground, near the confluence of the Isker and the Usk, will detain and delight the antiquarian in his researches. This beautiful river derives much of its captivating character from the magnificent timber that decorates its shelving banks, and from the occasional glades and openings they afford, through which the clear bright stream is seen meandering and flowing in its course. The eye of the Wanderer, which had gazed with inexpressible delight upon these enchanting scenes, was in an especial manner refreshed when he came, unexpectedly, within sight of the romantic bridge of Pont Pwl Gwyn, stretching its single chord across the channel of the river. Fir-trees of extraordinary growth, such as are rarely seen but in this district, reared high their green peaks in the foreground, and groves of majestic oaks mingled their varied autumnal hues in one rich and harmonious combination, from the summits of the verging banks to the water's edge. The looming line of distant hills, irradiated with the last rays of the setting sun, formed the back-ground of this exquisite picture, while the gentle Usk glided in soft unruffled beauty through the tranquil scene. Brecknock, or to recall its ancient and more classical name of Aberhonddu, derived from the circumstance of its standing at the point where the Honddu unites its waters with the Usk, is one of the pleasantest towns in the Principality. Old Churchyard describes it, in his day, as "Well-built without, yea trim and fayre within, With sweet prospect, that shall your favour win." It possesses architectural remains which connect it with |