Abbildungen der Seite
PDF
EPUB

are those of Peter of Savoy, Amadeus V., | was the birthplace of several of the counts

VI., and VII., Humbert III., Jeanne de Montfort, Louis I., and Baron de Vaud. There is a branch line from Aix-les-Bains to Annecy; time, 14 hours; fare, 4 frs. 50 c. From Aix to Chambéry; time, 22 min. Chambéry, the capital of Savoy. Population 20,000. Hôtel des Princes. It is situated on the bank of a small river which flows into the Lake of Bourget. It is noted for its manufacture of silk gauze and other fabrics. The remains of the ancient castle of the princes of Savoy, ancestors of Victor Emanuel, may still be seen. The castle was erected in 1230, and is now being repaired. Contiguous to the promenade, which leads to the town, may be seen the monumental fountain erected in honor of General de Boigne, a native of Chambéry, who made an immense fortune in the service of the Rajah of Scinde, India, all of which he bequeathed to the town.

The supposed winding-sheet of the Savior, now at Turin, was deposited in the castle of Chambéry for a long time, to see which many noted pilgrims resorted thither, among whom was Francis I. of France. The town is dull, and but little to see. There is a cathedral, public library, college, and theatre.

A short distance from the town is the villa Les Charmette, where resided for a time Madame de Varens and J. Jacques Rousseau. Madame de Varens was buried in the church of Lemanc. See here the tomb of General de Boigne.

of Savoy. Crossing the River Arc we come to the stations of La Chambre St. Julien, where excellent wine is produced, and St. Jean de Maurienne (Hôtel de l'Europe). Population, 3000. The cathedral here is the only object worth the traveler's attention.

St. Michel (Hôtel de la Poste), railway restaurant.

The need of an unbroken railway between France and Italy had long been strikingly obvious, and has at length been supplied by the opening of the Mont Cenis Tunnel, by means of which the journey from Paris to Turin is at present made in 22 hours, but which is expected eventually to require but 16. The construction of this and the St. Gothard Tunnel, the Suez Canal, and the Pacific Railroad, may be regarded as the four great mechanical and commercial events of the nineteenth century. The traveler arriving by rail from Paris, and bound for Italy, has hitherto proceeded from St. Michel over the mountain, passing Modane, Lans-le-Bourg, and the Mont Cenis Hospice, and, descending by Molaretto, has rejoined the railroad at Giaglione. This journey over the mountains required five or six hours, and although the traveler was partially repaid by the sublime scenery of the pass, the safety and convenience of the railroad through the tunnel was wanting. Although the tunnel is named from the Mont Cenis, the track selected is in reality at some distance from the mountain. Starting on the French side from a point above the village of Fourneaux, 3904 feet above the level of Montmélian (Hôtel des Voyageurs). The the sea, it cuts the mountain between the Castle of Montmélian was long the bul- Col de Fréjus and the Col de la Rône, riswark of Savoy against France. It was ing gradually to an elevation of 4377 feet nobly defended by Geoffrey Bens de Ca- above the sea, and then sloping down to vour against Louis XIII., but subsequent- the opening on the Italian side at Bardonly destroyed by Louis XIV. in 1705. A nêche, 4334 feet above the sea-level. The very good white wine is produced here. tunnel is very well lighted, and the air In crossing the bridge over the Isère a fine within is pure and fresh. The boring of view may be obtained of Mont Blanc, the the tunnel was attended by most serious only point on this route from which it may engineering difficulties, which were overbe seen. The next station is St. Pierre come by the energy and ability of Somd'Albigny. meiller, who conducted this arduous undertaking. Two thousand men were constantly employed, the work performed being at first half a yard per day, which afterward increased to more than 10 feet per day. Begun in 1857, the whole mountain

Route de Grenoble is the junction for the branch line to Grenoble, which follows the valley of the Isère.

Aignebelle (Hôtel Poste). Most of the inhabitants here are afflicted with the goitre, the situation of Aignebelle being remarkably unhealthy on account of the marshes. The Castle La Charbonnière

mass, a thickness of 13,256 yards, was pierced from end to end at the close of the year 1870.

The total expense of the tunnel amounted to $13,000,000, $4,000,000 of which was payable by Italy, according to an agreement made between that country and France in 1860. France promised to pay Italy $3,800,000 if the work were accomplished within twenty years, dating from 1862; and, in case less time was required, she bound herself to pay $100,000 more for every year gained on the stipulated time. She also agreed to pay 5 per cent. interest on the money due for the work as it pro1140

ceeded from year to year. Italy, stimulated by these terms, finished constructing the tunnel eleven years before the appointed time, and has thus gained $1,100,000 from France.

Susa (Hôtel de Saroie and Hôtel de France). Population, 3000. Susa is a very ancient town, known to the Romans as Segusium. The garden of the governor contains a triumphal arch of the Corinthian order, 48 feet high, 40 feet wide, and 25 feet in depth, erected in honor of Augustus, 8 B.C., by the order of the Prefect Cottius, son of King Dounus.

Turin. See "Italy," vol. ii.

[blocks in formation]

ROUTE 70.- Munich to Innspruck, via Rosenheim and Kuffstein.

ROUTE 71.-Innspruck to Verona, via Botzen and Brenner Pass.

ROUTE 72.- Innspruck to Milan, via Landeck, Finsterminz Pass, Stelvio Pass, Bormio, and Lake Como.

ROUTE 73.- Bregenz to Innspruck, via Feldkirch, Arlberg Pass, Bludenz, and Landeck.

ROUTE 74.—Innspruck to Augsburg.

ROUTE 75.-Bregenz to Venice, via Landeck, Finstermünz Pass, Mals, Meran, and Botzen.

ROUTE 76.-Bregenz to Zurich, via Landeck, Finstermünz Pass, Stelvio Pass, Bormio, Colico, Splügen Pass, Chur, and Ragatz.

ROUTE 77.- Innspruck to Zurich, via Landeck, Finstermünz Pass, Stelvio Pass, Bormio, Colico, Splügen Pass, Chur, and Ragatz.

ROUTE 78.-Bregenz to Zurich, via Landeck, Finstermünz Pass, Stelvio Pass, Bormio, Tirano, Bernina Pass, San Moritz, Julier Pass, Tiefenkasten, and Chur.

ROUTE 79 (Foot-route).— Innspruck to Salzburg, via Jenbach, Zell, Gerlos, Krimml Falls, Mittersill, Taxenbach, Lend (Wildbad-Gastein).

ROUTE 80.-Feldkirch to Chur. ROUTE 81. Innspruck to Milan, via Landeck, Feldkirck, Chur, Splügen Pass, Colico, and Lake Como.

ROUTE 82.-Innspruck to Venice, through the Dolomite Region, via Brixen, Brunecken, Pass of Ampezzo, and Conegliano.

ROUTE 83 (By carriage all the way).Innspruck to Salzburg, via Wörgl, Mittersill, Taxenbach, Lend (Wildbad-Gastein). ROUTE 84.-Munich to Innspruck, via Holzkirchen, Tegernsee, Kreuth, and Achensee. See Route 74.

ROUTE 85.- Innspruck to Verona, via Botzen, Trent, Roveredo, Riva, Lago di Garda, and Peschiera.

ROUTE 86.-Innspruck to Salzburg, via Wörgl and Reichenhall.

ROUTE 87.-Innspruck to Milan, via Landeck, Finstermünz Pass, Nauders, Valley

GEOGRAPHY.

of the Engadine, Chiavenna, Colico, and Lake Como.

ROUTE 88.-Meran to Sterzing, via the Passeyrthal and St. Leonards.

ROUTE 89.-Brunecken to Botzen, via the Gaderthal and the Grōdnerthal.

ROUTE 90.-Brixen to Villach, via the Pusterthal, Brunecken, and Lienz.

ROUTE 91.- Innspruck to the Oetzthal, via the Stubaythal, or the Pitzthal, or the Kaunthal

INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. Geographical Notice, History, Scenery, Inhabitants, Customs, Modes of Conveyance, Accommodation, Money, Guides, Passports, etc.

The Tyrol is the westernmost province of Austria, extending from Bavaria on the north, across the ranges of the Eastern Alps to the Italian Lago, or Lake of Garda, on the south, and from the Swiss Grisons on the west to Illyria and the district of Salzburg on the east, embracing the upper portions of the valley of the rivers Inn and Adige. Its length and breadth are about alike (145 miles), with a population of about 950,000, of which a third are of Italian origin. The main chain of the Alps, including many of its higher summits, traverses it from west to east, flanked on its southern and northern slopes by lofty zones of slate rock, thus forming, as it were, a great natural rock fortress, with outlying forts, which, being accessible only by narrow passes or defiles, are easily defended and held by a handful of men, thanks to which, as history shows us, the Tyrolese have been able to bid defiance to the most powerful European governments, and repel the attacks of their numerous and disciplined armies. But one sixth of the Tyrol, or a little over 1000 square miles, is arable, pasturage and barren rocks being equally represented in the rest. The Tyrol, on the founding of the kingdom of Arles by Boson, was separated from ancient Rhætia, of which it was the eastern half,

and left to the kingdom of Germany, under | leaps from a height of 1400 yards, holds its which numerous seigneuries were formed, such as the counties of Goritz, Eppan, Ulten, Andechs, Meran (the ancient capital), and Tyrol, then one of the least important, but whose proprietors were of the House of Goritz. In 1342, "Large-Mouthed Marguerite" or "Pouting Meg" (for history tells, through Carlyle, that her temper was as bad as her mouth was large), inheriting all the possessions of this house, discarded her first husband, a John of Bohemia, as a "Nullity," and bestowed her hand upon the Elector Ludwig of Brandenburg, a son of the Emperor Ludwig I., thereby transferring the Tyrol, as her dowry, to Austria. The province was often given as an apanage to different princes of the House of Austria, one of whom at last took the name of the Tyrol branch, which reached the empire finally in the person of Ferdinand II., and ended, after a long period, with Charles VI. Invaded and conquered at the commencement of this century by the French and Bavarian armies, the Tyrol was, for nine years (1805–1814), united to Bavaria, being restored to Austria at the end of that time. It was while under the domination of Bavaria that the formidable insurrection of 1809, under André Hofer, took place, making nearly every hill and valley in Northern and Central Tyrol the scene of some daring exploit or ingenious ambuscade. (A biographical notice of Hofer is given in the description of the Hofkirche, Innspruck, where his remains were interred in 1823.)

Tyrol was the scene of an insurrection against Austria in 1848, which was suppressed by Field-Marshal Radetzky.

own against Giessbach or Reichenbach. The Oetzthal Glacier compares favorably with the Grindelwald. The Stelvio Pass, the highest carriage-road in the world (9200 feet above the level of the sea, nearly 1000 feet above the level of perpetual snow, 2300 above the Simplon, and 1000 above the St. Bernard), is, for grandeur of scenery, boldness of design, magnitude of labor, etc., not to be surpassed in Europe. The Ortler Spitze (12,815 feet), the Gross Glockner, the Drei-herrn Spitze, and many other of the higher summits of the Alps are comprised within the limits of the Tyrol. The Dolomite Mountains, with their fantastical shapes and sharp peaks, extending along one after the other in serrated ridges, like alligators' jaws, cleft and fissured thousands of feet deep, form a picture which stands in living contrast with anything known in Europe. The forests of Tyrol, which form a distinguishing feature of its general scenery, are, for grandeur and extent, comparable to those of Norway alone-the larch, fir, and Siberian pine reaching gigantic elevations. Add to these and many other attractions, that of its history, telling one long tale of a brave, independent, and rational people, preserving their liberty, like Spartans, against overwhelming odds, and making every foot of ground not covered by ruins of strongholds of lord or robberking the scene of some romantic legend or daring exploit in the cause of freedom; the good-natured and sterling characteristics of the inhabitants; the increasing facilities for first-class accommodation and conveyance, and a centre like Innspruck, the capital, from which the traveller may start in any direction best suited to his time and tastes, and we have an ensemble which is certainly of superlative quality and interest.

The

The scenery in the Tyrol may fail to produce a very great impression upon the traveller, especially if viewed after that of Switzerland, as, taken altogether, it does not pre- The Tyrolese has two strong points: his sent such an incessant combination of cas-religion, and skill as a marksman. cades, glaciers, wooded heights, and beren peaks, of placid, blue lakes, and winding rivers, with other resources at the command of nature, which offer such kaleidoscopic attractions to the tourist. The Tyrol, on the contrary, depends upon the originality and separate individuality of its wonders, unaided by varied background and satellitic scenic effects, to command the admiration of the visitor. The Krimml Cascade, a volume of water descending in three

first is fed by the nature of his country and the life he leads, exposed as he is to daily perils from avalanche, land-slide, freshet, storm, and accidents of many kinds. To` it he owes his courage, patriotism, attachment to his sovereign, and sincerity of thought and action. To the second, aided by his perfect knowledge of every hidden passage and mountain path, he owes, in a great degree, his independence, and the terrible reception he has given so often to un

wary enemies. Sawdust thrown into the | in the different Thals or valleys. The men headwaters of rivers in daytime, or signal- generally wear brown jackets, breeches to fires on the heights by night, apprised the the knee, stockings from about two inches inhabitants in a few hours of the threaten- below the breeches to the ankle, but no faring danger, and a few hours more saw them ther; the feet are covered with immense united from all directions in common de- thick shoes; the hats partake of the Italfence. The same body of men have been ian brigand style, high black velvet, orknown, when hard pressed, to fight two dif-namented with a cock's feather or bunch ferent detachments of French, in separate of flowers; and sooner expect to meet valleys, during the same day. A body of a dog without his tail than a Tyrolese Bavarians near Innspruck, numbering sev- without his porcelain pipe and blue or eral thousand, were kept prisoners in a red umbrella. The females usually wear hollow among the mountains by sentries short dark petticoats, stuff jackets, and posted on the heights, until the Tyrolese, gray or green stockings, a Leghorn hat at first perfectly inadequate, were of suffi- with an immense brim, a velvet cap like cient force to escort them to a place of the males, or a loose handkerchief, never safety; while superior officers of the French forgetting that interminable red or blue army have been picked off in fortified towns, umbrella. as, for instance, Botzen, by peasants concealed on the mountain-sides.

The taste for music of the Tyrolese, and his originality of composition and song are too well known to render much comment necessary, being peculiarly adapted to out-door singing in a mountainous country where every hill sends back an echo. The "Bauern Komödien," or peasants' comedies, are plays composed entirely by themselves, and though of the humblest pretension to plot or elegance of versification, they are very amusing and witty, girls very often impersonating both male and female characters. (These mostly take place in the villages near Innspruck, to which allusion is made in the description of that town.) Dancing is also very popular, no marriage or holiday passing off without a rustic ball, which is generally given in inns or hay-barns, and kept up from noon till night. Native costumes are then to be seen in great variety. Hunting is also a favorite occupation of the Tyrolese, affording him interesting opportunities of exercising or improving his skill with the rifle; chamois is the favorite game, though, as in Switzerland, gradually becoming scarce. Athletic sports, in which wrestling forms a prominent feature, are viewed with great interest, the champions of different parishes or valleys contending with one another for the oak-leaf crown, or, rather, the cock's feather. The language spoken in the north of the Tyrol is the German, that in the south the Italian.

It is almost impossible to give a description of any particular dress peculiar to the peasantry of the Tyrol, as it varies so much

The most comfortable manner for families or parties to travel through the Tyrol is by vetturino-they are very comfortable, and good horses may be obtained-or bet-. ter still with one's own carriage and posthorses. There is next the separat-wagen, which belongs to the postal establishment, and is cheaper than the vetturino: a party of four persons may engage it, but, being covered, it is very hot and dusty in the summer. Then comes the eilwagen, or mail-coach, which runs upon all the principal roads and thoroughfares, and is quite roomy and expeditious. The omnibus, or stellwagen, is very slow and very cheap, running daily over all the principal roads, holding from ten to twelve persons: it travels about five miles per hour, at from six to nine kreutzers per mile; it also contains a coupé, holding three persons: the centre individual can see but little. To study the manners and customs of the people this is the conveyance, but a man must be sure proof against tobacco smoke. Every man and boy in the Tyrol smokes, and smokes all the time, and smokes the poorest kind of tobacco; consequently, when an omnibus is very full on a hot day, and it is impossible to see the dust for the smoke, or the smoke for the dust, most people would prefer a higher-priced conveyance. In fact, if you want to carry on an active flirtation with one of the female beauties of the Tyrol, it is fully as safe as passing through a tunnel.

The author received the following prices, recently adopted, from the Austrian gov ernment, being much led astray by follow

« ZurückWeiter »