ROUTE 13.-Zermatt and excursions in sion made from Zermatt by travelers who its vicinity. are pressed for time is that to the Riffelberg and Gorner Grat. To the hotel of the first requires two and a half hours with horse, and two hours on foot. From the hotel to Gorner Grat, one and a half hours. Visitors should ascertain at Zermatt wheth Zermatt, the rival of Chamounix, and the centre of the most magnificent, savage, wonderful, and dangerous excursions in Switzerland, is situated 5315 feet above the level of the sea. It contains about 500 inhabitants. Hotels: Du Mont Cer-er they can be accommodated at the hotel vin, Du Mont Rose, and Des Alps. The two former belong to the same proprietor, as also the Riffel Hotel on the Riffelberg. In no other situation is the tourist admitted so completely into the heart of the Alps. This town is encircled by the most important mountains in Europe. Its icefields and rocks are of the most wonderful and magnificent proportions, while the savage and sublime grandeur of its great feature, the Matterhorn, fascinates all beholders. The guides of Zermatt are well acquainted with the different routes, and most of them speak some French. The names of those most highly recommended are: Ignatz Bienet, of the Hôtel des Alps; Taugwalder, father and son [it was this Tangwalder (father) who held firm when the rope broke, saving his own and Mr.Whymper's life, during the first ascent of the Matterhorn, when Croz, the other guide, Lord Francis Douglas, the Rev. Chas. Hudson, and a Mr. Hadow were launched into eternity down a perpendicular precipice four thousand feet], Taugwald, Peter Perren, Josef and Franz Perren, Knubel, Lockmatter, and Kronig. Guides by the day, 6 frs.-1 fr. pour boire; mules by the day, 10 frs.-1 fr. pour boire. The fees for the different excursions are established by law: Francs. To make the ascent of the Matter- Châtillon.. 40 30 25 25 25 25 Triftjoch to Zinal. Col d'Hérens to Evolena.... Matterhorn Hut.... Adler Pass... New Weissthor.. 20 Mettelhorn... 8 Col Théodule 8 at Riffelberg before going up, and govern themselves accordingly. During the height of the season the landlord of the Hôtel du Mont Cervin issues tickets for beds at the Riffelberg. By remaining at the top over night, if the weather be clear, the glories of the setting and rising sun may be enjoyed. The bridle-path can hardly be mistaken, still it is as well to have a guide. Crossing the Visp, the visitor ascends through a meadow, crossing the Findelenbach through some meadows to the foot of the mountain. The ascent then commences through a wood of Alpine cedars and larchtrees; the open Alp is then reached, when, crossing the stream, the road mounts by zigzags to the inn on the Riffelberg plateau. Continuing to ascend, and passing the descent to the Gorner Glacier, the first view of the magnificent range of the Monte Rosa is seen, and a panorama of vast extent, considered as fine as any in Switzerland, is obtained. The Matterhorn stands out in all his glory, while the Weisshorn, Rothhorn, Gabelhorn, and Dent Blanche present a most wonderful and splendid appearance. The track now lies over wild and barren rocks, vegetation having almost disappeared; it is more prudent to dismount at this place, and let your horses await your return. The Gorner Grat is a ridge rising from the Riffelberg, and presents a panorama at once both wild and strikingly grand. Its summit is 10,290 feet above the level of the sea. On every side the spectator is surrounded by glaciers and snow-white mountain-tops for an extent of forty miles in diameter. From Monte Rosa to the Matterhorn an uninterrupted ice-field stretches before him, in every respect far exceeding Chamounix, where the view only extends to half the hemisphere. In returning, a visit is generally made to an eminence called the Guggli, to obtain The first and generally the only excur- a different view of the gorgeous beauty of VOL. III.-C 2 1061 the surroundings; horses are usually sent to this point, as the descent is better than from the Gorner Grat, although many visitors return on foot to the hotel, and then visit the Gorner Glacier, where the river rushes from the glacier down a narrow gorge-a spot of matchless beauty. This glacier, which is much more extensive than the Mer de Glace at Chamounix, is joined in its circuit round the Riffelberg by ten other glaciers; it is encroaching year by year on the meadows, where the torrent issues from its icy bed. The usual grand excursions made from the hotel of the Riffelberg are to the Cima di Jazi, Monte Rosa, and the Matterjoch (if not continuing Route 12 to Aosta). The Matterhorn, Rothhorn, Mettelhorn, and Weisshorn are ascended from Zermatt. The Matterhorn is most difficult of ascent, requiring about fourteen hours' time (guides, $30 each), and entailing any amount of fatigue; and, although rocks have been blasted at the most difficult points, and ropes attached to it, the horrible death of three out of the four gentlemen who first made the ascent fills the hearts of most travelers with horror. This isolated and lovely pyramid stands 14,705 feet above the level of the sea, and up to 1865 its summit had never felt the pressure of mortal foot; and in 1860 even its sides retained the prestige of invincibility. In this year Professor Tyndall, with a friend and the guide Bennen, made the ascent of a portion of the cone, but night coming on, they were obliged to discontinue the attempt. In 1862 the same gentleman, with the same guide, reached a more advanced point, now called Pic Tyndall. The same year a Mr. Whymper (the survivor in the final ascent in 1865) spent a night near the summit, amid "toppling crags of ice whom a breath draws down in mountainous overwhelming." "And you, ye crags, upon whose extreme edge Mr. Whymper has given a vivid description of the moonlight night and breaking day as it appeared from his most perilous and giddy position. made on the 14th of July, 1865, but at what a fearful sacrifice! Like the meeting of two nations in the centre of the Mont Cenis Tunnel, two parties started on the same day to reach the summit of the Matterhorn. Signore Giardano, at the head of a party, started from Breuil, anxious that the Italians should have the honor of first scaling that giddy height. The English party, which started from Zermatt, consisted of Lord Francis Douglas, Mr. Whymper, Rev. Mr. Hudson, Mr. Hadow, Michael Croz, a trustworthy Chamounix guide, and the guide Peter Taugwalder, and his two sons as porters. They mounted nearly direct from the east side to a height of eleven thousand feet, where they pitched their tent for the night. Starting next morning by daylight, and crossing the northwest face of the mountain, they were obliged to climb a cliff at an angle of over fifty degrees. Surmounting this difficult space over a precipice of 4000 feet, the party found itself on a small terrace of gentle slope, which led easily to the summit. Mr. Whymper was the first who reached that point. It is said that when the men employed by Signore Giardano saw the figures of the English party fifteen hundred feet above them, they ran screaming down the mountain, thinking they were evil spirits. The party remained about an hour at the top, and then commenced the descent in the following order: first the guide Michael Croz, Mr. Hadow, Mr. Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas, the guide Taugwalder, Mr. Whymper, and young Taugwalder, the porter-the other having been left where the party had encamped the night previous. Mr. Whymper was just finishing a sketch, which accounts for his being placed behind Taugwalder. Just at a moment when Croz had turned, after placing Hadow's foot on what he supposed to be safe footing, the last-named person slipped, overturning Croz, and carrying Hudson and Douglas along with him over a frightful precipice of four thousand feet, dashing them into a horrible abyss nearly one quarter of a mile beneath. Taugwalder held firm, and the rope broke, saving his own, Mr. Whymper's, and his son's life. Some say the rope was not held tight enough; others, it was not strong enough; The final and successful attempt was and some say that it was cut by the guide on seeing he could not save their lives and cure. The summit can be reached from his own also. the Riffelberg in five hours. Care should In 1868 Professor Tyndall made the pass-be taken not to approach too near the line age across the mountain from Breuil to of precipices. The first half hour and the Zermatt for the first time. last quarter are the only fatiguing portions of the excursion. In September, 1871, an American lady and gentleman, Miss Brevoort and Mr. Coolidge, crossed from Zermatt to Breuil. Miss Brevoort was accompanied by her dog. The ascent of Monte Rosa requires about twelve hours' time. Two guides are necessary; 40 frs. each. The summit of the highest peak (it has five), Höchste-Spitze, is 15,217 feet above the level of the sea. It has recently become quite common for ladies even to make this excursion. Its other four peaks are Nordend, ZumsteinSpitze, Signalkuppe, and Parrot-Spitze. Its ascent was first accomplished by a Mr. Smythe in 1855, and although now rendered comparatively easy, is considered both fatiguing and slightly dangerous. There is no necessity for sleeping on the mountain, but the aspirant for Alpine fame must start from the Riffelberg as early as 3 A.M. The crest for a distance of about four hundred feet is the principal difficulty in making the ascent, and the last twelve feet are passed with the aid of a rope; but when the summit is reached, the view is one of surpassing grandeur. At the spectator's feet lie the Italian lakes and the plains of Lombardy, and as far as the eye can reach stretches a panorama of wonderful grandeur and magnificent beauty. In descending, great care should be taken (more than during the ascent), as for over an hour you travel over steps cut out of the solid ice, on the brink of a precipice three thousand feet in depth. The Cima di Jazi is the highest point of the plateau connecting the Strahlhorn with Monte Rosa. It is 12,527 feet above the level of the sea, and requires about nine hours to make the ascent and descent. Guide, 12 frs.: one sufficient. The view is similar to that from the summit of Monte Rosa-naturally not quite so extensive, but one which is more satisfactory when safety, fatigue, and expense are concerned. The view extends over the Bernese and Penine Alps, and, like Monte Rosa, over the plains of Italy; while the ascent is over gentle slopes, and, although most of the time on ice and snow, the footing is se The route follows that of the Gorner Grat for the first half hour. In one hour more the Gorner Glacier is reached, over which the tourist travels for a short distance, but is compelled by the crevasses to return to the rocks. At the base of the Stockhorn he again returns to the glacier, then, passing between the Gorner and Findellen Glacier, in two hours and a half the summit is reached. If not too much fatigued, the cone of the New Weissthor should be visited, from which the view of the Macugnaga village and glacier is very gratifying. It is much better to retrace your steps than return to Zermatt by the Findellen Glacier. The Riffelhorn and Rothhorn will hardly repay the trouble taken when other peaks have been mounted, and the latter is only accessible to expert Alpine climbers. To Macugnaga, in the Valley of Saas, is considered a most lovely excursion; guide, 25 frs. The route as far as the Weissthor includes the Cima di Jazi, a detour of half an hour. Nearly the whole route is over glaciers and snow-fields, and can be made in about eight hours. The Col de la Dent Blanche, at the head of the Zinal Glacier, not a particularly interesting excursion after having made the others. It is situated between the Gabelhorn and Dent Blanche. The Z Mutt Glacier should also be visited; time, 14 hours; guide, 30 frs. The great interest of this excursion is the wonderful view of the Matterhorn. Continuing Route 12 from Zermatt to Aosta, via the Col de St. Théodule and Val Tournanche. This pass is considered the easiest of all the high glacier passes, and, although there is little danger in crossing without a guide, still one ought always to be taken, and the rope should be used at all times. The time occupied depends on the state of the snow. A horse may be taken as far as the glacier, a distance of three hours, if starting from Zermatt; price, 15 frs. Thence to the Col de St. Théodule, across the glacier, in one and a half hours. From the summit of the col, which is 10,899 Private carriage from Brieg to Domo (one horse), 50 frs.; three horses, 100 frs. feet above the level of the sea, a magnifi- |44 hours, and 5 hours 50 min. respectively. cent view is to be had. On one side the (See Baveno.) Bernese Alps, with the valley of the Visp leading into that of the Rhone; on the other side the peaks of the Piedmontese mountains; while in the immediate vicinity the glories of the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, and other wonders of lesser note are visible. On this spot Saussure encamped for three days making experiments. There is a small inn here. From the summit to Breuil in three hours. After passing the glacier, in the descent, mules may be found waiting, left by travelers coming over from Italy. Time from the glacier, one and a half hours; to the village of Val Tournanche (Hotel du Mont Rose), over a wild, romantic valley, in two hours more. Baggage sent by diligence must be at the office the previous night. If going without the owner, the keys must be sent, else it will be stopped at St. Marco or Iselle, the frontier Italian town. The Simplon, after the Brenner, was the first of the great Alpine routes, and owes its construction to the genius and energy of Napoleon I. After the battle of Marengo, with the difficulties experienced in crossing the Great St. Bernard still fresh in his memory, he determined to have a great military road into Italy. An order was accordingly issued to that effect, and the execution of the work was intrusted to In four hours the town of Châtillon is M. Céard, one of the most celebrated enreached, Hôtel de Londre. This is the cap-gineers of the day. The work was comital of an Italian district, is beautifully sit-menced on the Italian side in 1800, and on uated, and altogether a pleasant town, containing 3000 inhabitants. ROUTE 14.-From St. Maurice and Martigny to Domo d'Ossola and Arona, on Lake Maggiore. By the Valley of the Rhone, Gorge de Trient, Martigny, Saxen-les-Bains, Sion, Sierre, Leuk, Vispach, Brieg, and the Pass of the Simplon to Pallanza and the Borromean Islands. For a description of the towns in the Rhone valley, viz., St. Maurice to Brieg, see Route 42. The railway is finished as far as Brieg; time from St. Maurice, 3 h. 10 m.; fare, 14 fr. 10 c. Railway from Lausanne to Brieg in 6 h. 25 m.; fare, 19 fr. 50 c. Sierre (Hôtel Bellevue, near the station). See Route 42. Brieg (see Route 42), Hôtel Trois Cou ronnes. From Brieg to Domo d'Ossola; diligence twice a day, in ten hours; fare in coupé, 13 fr. 15 c.; other places, 11 fr. 50 c. Diligence from Domo to Baveno, Stresa, and Arona, all on Lago Maggiore, in 4 hours, the Swiss in 1801, and was finished in six years. It cost about three and a half million of dollars. France paid one half the cost and the Cisalpine Republic the other. It was commenced three years before the road over Mont Cenis, and finished four years sooner, and was considered at that period one of the wonders of the age. At one time there were over thirty thousand men employed upon the work. It commenced at Geneva and ended at Milan, and at no one point is the grade over one in thirteen; and the whole distance it is twenty-five feet wide-some places even over. From Brieg to Simplon, or the summit of the pass, occupies six hours. The ascent commences immediately after leaving the town, and, passing through green meadows, it approaches the gorge of Saltine, where the torrent is seen rushing down the valley amid bristling rocks and rugged embankments. Passing the First Refuge, whence a beautiful view of the Rhone valley is seen, two and a half miles farther the Second Refuge is passed. The road now bends around the valley of the Ganter and crosses the Ganter Bridge, which is so much exposed to avalanches and fearful gusts of wind that it is left uncovered for fear that it might be carried away during the winter storms. The road now ascenda in winding curves, and arrives at Berisal, the Third Refuge, nine miles from Brieg, where posthorses are kept. Passing through the first gallery, and crossing the Frombach and Weissbach, the Fourth Refuge is passed; and, clearing the forest, a magnificent view of the Rhone valley and the Bernese Alps attracts the attention of the traveler. At the Fifth Refuge a picture of rugged and barren desolation surrounds the traveler, vegetation has almost ceased, and the eye roams from rock to glacier, while the roaring cataract fills up the picture of barren and fantastic grandeur. From this point to the summit is the most dangerous portion of the route, on account of avalanche and storm, and a hospice and six houses of refuge within a distance of two miles display the care taken by the builder to shelter the weary traveler. To protect one part of the road, three galleries have been constructed, which serve both as bridge and aqueduct, to carry off the torrents issuing from the glaciers, and protect the road from avalanches. At the Sixth Refuge a cross marks the highest point of the pass, 6628 feet above the level of the sea. About half a mile beyond the Hospice is reached, a similar establishment to that of the Great St. Bernard, founded by Napoleon I. Entertainment is gratuitous, but visitors are expected to put as much, if not more, into the poor-box than a similar entertainment would cost him at an inn. The house, which contains some thirty beds, is kept by a few monks of the Order of St. Augustine, who belong to the same fraternity as the St. Bernard monks. In addition to the bedrooms, there is a drawingroom, with a piano, and a refectory and chapel. After passing the hospice, the road crosses a valley of considerable extent, bounded by mountain peaks and glaciers, and, descending past the Seventh Refuge, we arrive at Simplon. Inns, Post and Des Alps. is the longest tunnel in the whole line of the Simplon. Opposite one of the openings made to light the interior is the inscription, " Ære Italo, 1805. Nap. Imp." As the traveler passes through this gallery he will notice the savage and roaring fall of Fressinone, which is carried across an elegant bridge. On either side of the gorge the rocks rise almost perpendicularly to the height of 2000 feet. After passing over a bridge (a previous structure was carried away in 1834 by a fearful storm that did great damage to the Simplon road), Gondo, the last Swiss village, is reached. An old tower, erected before the construction of the Simplon road for the accommodation of travelers, is now used as an inn. About an hour's walk down the valley leads to Zurich-Bergen, a former gold mine, not now worked. A granite column on the left of the road marks the Italian frontier, and soon St. Marco, the first Italian village, is reached, where passengers' luggage is examined. A short distance farther the town of Iselle is passed. Hôtel Posta. On every hand evidence of the fearful storms of 1834 is apparent: for miles every vestige of the road disappeared, and bridges were swept away without leaving a stone to mark the spot on which they stood. The Diveria is now crossed, the gallery of Crevola traversed (the last on the route), and the traveler suddenly finds himself transferred as if by magic from savage, wild, and rugged grandeur to trellised vines, green chestnuts, gray olives, and balmy air; passing through the Val d'Ossola, the town of Domo d'Ossola is reached. Grand Hôtel de Ville. Nine miles from Domo, Vogogna is passed, situated on the Tosa. There is little to interest the trav eler here. After passing through a deep valley, which leads to the entrance of the Gallery Baveno (fares by diligence from Domo of Algaby, the road enters the Gorge of d'Ossola to Baveno, Stresa, and Arona, 9 Gondo, one of the wildest and most rugged fr. 40 c., 10 fr. 50 c., and 15 fr. 25 c. respectto be found on all the Alps. The roaring ively). See Baveno, Route 34. Diveria has detached huge masses of rock, with which its bed is filled, while overhanging mountains threaten to crush the passing tourist. The road now passes through the Gallery of Gondo, over 700 feet length, hewn out of the solid rock. This From Baveno or Stresa the steamer can be taken to Arona, whence to Milan by rail in 1 h. 39 m. See Italy, Vol. II. In going from Italy to Brieg the time is eleven hours. One can return by Route 15 to the starting-point of Route 13. |