CHAPTER IV FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV To Margiana from the Hyrcanian cliffs MILTON, Paradise Regained, 317. Uzun Ada, present and future--Start from Uzun Ada-Character of the scenery-The Persian mountains--The desert of Kara Kum -The four oases- Vegetation of the oases-The Akhal-Tekke oasis-Statistics of its resources-The desert landscape-Variations of climate-Geok Tepe, the old Turkoman fortress-Story of the siege of Geok Tepe-Preparations for assault-Assault and capture, January 24, 1881-Pursuit and massacre of the Turkomans-Impression left upon the conquered--Skobeleff and the massacre His principle of warfare--Character of SkobeleffHis marvellous courage-His caprice-Idiosyncrasies-Anecdotes of his whims Story of the Persian Khan--Final criticism-Turkoman peasants-Askabad-Government of TranscaspiaResources and taxation-Buildings of the town-Strategical importance of Askabad and roads into Persia-Use of the railway by pilgrims to Meshed and Mecca-The Atek oasis and DushakRefusal of permission to visit Kelat and Meshed--Kelat-i-NadiriThe Tejend oasis. and future FROM the technical details dealt with in the preceding Uzun Ada, chapter, I now pass to a record of my journey and the present experiences that it involved. At the point where my narrative was interrupted, it had brought my fellowtravellers and myself to the eastern shore of the Caspian. Uzun Ada, where we landed, and which was made the western terminus of the railway in August. 1886, is certainly not an attractive or inspiring spot, though it perhaps hardly deserves the savage abuse with which it has been assailed, any more than it does the laudatory exaggeration of French and Russian scribes. The word means Long Island, and the town is accordingly built on a low and straggling islet of sand, the yellow of which glitters fiercely between the opposite blues of sky and sea. There is not a blade of grass or a drop of water to be seen, and the heat in the summer months must be appalling. The town consists of a number of small wooden houses and shops (children must be born and exist at Uzun Ada, because I actually saw a toy shop) reared in a promiscuous fashion on the sand, which is elsewhere covered with sheds, warehouses, and other large wooden buildings. Most of the houses arrived, ready made, in numbered blocks, from Astrakhan, where they had cost 607. apiece. A freight charge of 127., and a further 31. for the expenses of erection, raised the actual figure to 751. each. The more important buildings were constructed upon the spot with material brought from Russia. I could see the reservoir and enginehouse where the condensation of seawater is effected; and though the bulk of the water supply arrives by train every day from the interior, I observed signs that these artificial agencies were still in use. The piers were loaded with bales of cotton and other merchandise, and a good deal of business appeared to be going on. Uzun Ada is, however, though preferable to Michaelovsk, a very unsatisfactory anchorage; for it contains only from 10 to 12 feet of water, and is |