Draughts.

The accounts given by various authors of the origin of Draughts, if not vague, are at any rate so contradictory that it seems impossible to decide with anything like certainty how, when, or where the game did originate. Many writers say that in point of antiquity it takes precedence of chess, and this appears to be extremely probable, because in the first place it is a much less complex game. Indeed, it is very likely that chess is an after refinement of the game of draughts. It appears that draughts was known among the savage tribes of New Zealand; and upon the whole it may be fairly conceded that those who stand up for the greater antiquity of draughts are entitled to exclaim

"Antiquity's pride we have on our side."

However, without any great loss to the reader, we may leave this question of the rival claims of draughts and chess to priority on that point to be discussed, if not settled, by the antiquarian.

Draughts is entirely a game of mathematical calculation, and although far too much stress has been laid on its merits as a means of developing the intellectual faculties of the young, it can at least be said that if innocent intellectual amusements are at all beneficial, then there is something to be urged in behalf of the utility of draughts.

The game does not appear to have been much practised in Europe till the middle of the sixteenth century, and it was not until about a century afterwards, i. e., in 1668, that a work of any importance on the subject was published. In 1756, Mr. William Payne, a mathematician, published his still celebrated introduction to the game of draughts. superseded by "The Guide to published in London, in 1800. subject. Having said so much by way of introduction, we shall now proceed to give the

Other works followed, but they have all been the Game of Draughts, by Joshua Sturges," This work is still the greatest authority on the

Preliminary Instructions.

The game is played on a board exactly similar to a chess-board, containing sixty-four squares, colored black and white alternately. Throughout the game only one set of squares must be used; in other words, if the players elect in the first instance to play on the white squares they cannot at any future stage of the game make use of the black squares; and vice versa. In England it is customary to play on the white, but in this country the black squares are generally used. Assuming that black is selected, the board must be so placed that a double black corner is at the right hand, as in the following diagram, which shows the men properly placed at the commencement of the game.

It will be seen from the diagram that one player begins with twelve white men, and his adversary with twelve black. The white men occupy the firs

three rows at one end of the board, the three rows at the other end being occupied by the black men.

The object of the game is to capture all your adversary's men, or to "pin" them, or hem them in so that they cannot be moved. The player who succeeds in doing this wins the game.

Method of Moving.

The men can only be moved one square at a time. They must also be moved forward, either to the right or to the left, until they have been advanced to one of the top squares of the board, upon which they become kings, when they may be moved either backwards or forwards as the player finds best. When one of the men is made a king, he is crowned by a captured man of the same color being placed on the top of him. The men take in the direction in which they move, by leaping over any adverse piece or pieces which may be next to or in front of

them. A capture can be made only when there is a vacant square behind the piece to be captured. Several pieces may be taken in one move, provided of course that they are in certain positions. It is of great importance, even at the very opening of the game, to push on for a king, for, possessing the privilege of moving either backwards or forwards, he is of considerably more value than a common man.

As we have already stated, the game is won by the player who first succeeds in capturing or blocking up his adversary's men; but it often happens that the forces on each side are so reduced and rendered so equal, that neither player can hope to bring the game to a decisive conclusion. The game is then relinquished, and is declared to be drawn. It may generally be given up when the force on each side is two kings, the position on both sides being equal, or when there is only one left; otherwise, they might keep on playing for hours without any possibility of finishing the game.

Laws of the Game.

I. The board must be placed so that there shall be a double corner at the right hand. If you play on the white squares there must be a white double corner at the right hand: if on black, then a black double corner.

II. The first move in each game must be taken by the players in turn. In the first game at each sitting lots must be drawn for the choice of men, and he who wins may either take the move or decide that his adversary shall.

[It is absurd to suppose that any advantage is to be derived from playing first. If there is any advantage at all it would rather be with the second player, who has, what is technically called, "the move ;" but in point of fact, it can be of no service to either player to have "the move" at so early a stage of the game. It is usual for the player who moves first to take the black, and as the players use black and white alternately, it follows that black has the first move in every game.]

III. If at the end of five minutes the player whose turn it is to move has not moved, his adversary may demand of him to move, and if he still refuse to do 50 one minute after being called upon, he loses the game.

[This rule is not absolute. It holds good only where no special agreement has been made beforehand.]

IV. You must not point over the board with your finger, nor do anything which will have the effect of interrupting your adversary's full and continued view of the game. Either of the players persisting in this conduct after having been warned loses the game.

[This rule is not universally admitted, but the practice is so excessively vulgar that we have not hesitated to affix as its penalty the loss of the game.]

V. Neither player is allowed to leave the room during the progress of a game without his adversary's consent, on pain of losing the game.

VI. You may adjust your men properly on their squares at any part of the game, provided you intimate your intention to do so. After they are so ad justed, if you touch a man you must move it somewhere, and if you move it sc far as to be visible over the angle of an adjoining open square you must com. plete the move in that direction. No penalty is attached to your touching man which cannot be played.

["Touch and move" must be your motto.]

VII. If a player neglect to take a man which is en prise, his opponent may either "huff" him, compel him to take the man, by saying, "Take that," or let the man remain on the board, as he may think proper. The act of "huffing" is not reckoned as a move; a "huff and a move go together.

[It is called "standing the huff" when a player instead of taking the man which is en prise, makes some other move. His opponent then removes the piece which ought to have made the capture, and makes his own move. How. ever, he may, if he choose, demand that the man which is en prise shall be taken as the law states. Standing the huff" can never be done except by the con

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sent of the adverse player. The necessity of this law will be obvious when the young player is informed that it is not unusual to sacrifice two or three men in succession in order to make a decisive coup, which could not be done if there existed absolute power to refuse to take the piece which was offered.]

VIII. When one of your men reaches the row at the opposite end of the board, it becomes a king, and acquires the power of moving either backwards or forwards.

IX. When a game draws near its conclusion, and one of the players has a much stronger force than the other, the player having the weaker side may demand that his opponent shall win the game in a certain number of moves, and if the opponent fails to do this, the game is declared to be drawn. Suppose three white kings and two black kings remain, black may require that the game shall be won or relinquished in forty moves. If the two white kings are opposed to one black king, the number of moves must not exceed twenty on each side. In no case can these numbers be exceeded after having been once claimed, and even if one more move would win the game, it must be declared to be drawn.

X. When a player can take several pieces in the same move, he must not remove one until his man has arrived at the last square, and if his adversary chooses, he may compel him to take all the men which are en prise.

XI. If either player make a false move, he may be adjudged to have lost the game.

[It would always be desirable, where practicable, to make some special agreement beforehand as to what should be the penalty for making a false move. The strict rule certainly seems too severe for ordinary play. It may generally be presumed that such mistakes are unintentional, and in most cases it will be a sufficient penalty to decide either that the piece touched shall be moved to whichever square the adversary chooses, or that it shall stand where it is, as the adversary may think best.]

XII. All disputes on points not comprised within the rules to be decided by the majority of the persons present.

XIII. A player refusing to finish the game, or to comply with any of the rules, shall be adjudged the loser.

Hints for Beginners.

As one of the most important among the few general rules that can be safely relied on, we may mention that at the beginning of a game it is better to pla out your own men towards the middle of the board than to the side squares. The reason of this is obvious, for a man in the middle of the board commands in two directions, while if he is at the side, his power is curtailed by half. Always endeavor to find out the motives which lead to your adversary's moves. and try to get into the habit of constantly asking yourself what will be the result of this or that move, both with regard to your own move and your adver

sary's. Of course you must consider well over each move, and in order to carry out this advice thoroughly, if you are only a beginner, you should, where piacticable, play with those who would not, in every case, require to move within the prescribed time. Having once gained an advantage in number of pieces, you increase the proportion by occasional exchanges. In forcing an exchange, however, you must take care not to damage your position. In this way, if you are once a piece ahead, you may, by careful play, and making judicious exchanges, finally determine the game in your own favor; but, on the other hand, although there is no rule against it, it is generally considered that this system of forcing the game by exchanges is highly objectionable. Among good players it is thought to be mean. Of course this applies only to cases where it is carried to excess. We cannot conclude these "hints" better than by giving the excellent advice of Sturges, undoubtedly the greatest authority on the subject of draughts:

superior allows the

"Never touch a man without moving it, and do not permit the loss of a few games to ruffle your temper, but rather let continued defeat act as an incentive to greater efforts, both of study and practice. When one player is decidedly stronger than another, he should give odds to make the game equally interesting to both. There must be a great disparity indeed if he can give a man, but it is very common to give one man in a rubber of three games, the superior player engaging to play one game with eleven instead of twelve. Another description of odds consists in giving the drawn games-that is, the weaker player to reckon as won all games he draws. Never play with a better player without offering to take such odds as he may choose to give. If you find yourself, on the other hand, so superior to your adversary that you feel no amusement in playing even, offer him odds; and, should he refuse, cease playing with him, unless he will play for a stake, the losing which for a few games in succession will soon bring him to his senses, and make him willing to receive the odds you offer. Follow the rules of the game most rigorously, and compel your antagonist to do the same, without which draughts are mere child's play. If you wish to improve, play with better players in preference to such as you can beat; and take every opportunity of looking on when fine players are engaged. Never touch the squares of the board with your finger, as some do, from the supposition that it assists their powers of calculation, and accustom yourself to play your move off hand when once you have made up your mind, without hovering with your fingers over the board for a couple of minutes, to the great annoyance of the lookers-on. While you play do not fall into the vulgar habit of chattering nonsense, and show no impatience at your adversary should he be a little slow. Finally, bear in mind what may well be termed the three golden rules to be observed in playing games of calculation-firstly, to avoid all boasting and loud talking about your skill-secondly, to lose with good temper-and thirdly, to win with silence and modesty."