CHAPTER IX.

KIOTO, OR SAIKIO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL.

Changes of name-The "cockpit" of Japan-Arrival at Kioto-Lodgings

in a Buddhist temple-Baths of Maruyama-General view of the

city-Temples of Higashi-Otani and Chionin-The Mikado's palace

-The emperor-god-The throne-room, study, bed-chamber -The

apartments of the empress-Imperial gardens-Shinto temple at

Shimagomo-A summer-seat of the Mikado-The silver-storied temple

-Pastimes of the sacred and secular monarchs-Temples of the eight

million gods-Other temples-Government industrial establishments

and schools-Female normal school-" Sweet girl-graduates"-Educa-

tion of dancing-girls and geishas-A banquet with Buddhist digni-

taries-Illuminations-Arashiyama-Fishing and boating on a moun-

tain river-A palace tiffin-Japanese music-The Toji temples-

Superfluous gods-Another Buddhist banquet-Ancient Japanese and

Chinese temple dances-Presents--The gentle Buddha-An historical

exhibition Literary treasures Porcelain works - Hideyoshi at

"Clear-water Temple "-Nishi - Otani- National dances Silk and

other factories-Street strolls-Mount Hiyei.

-

-

CHAPTER X.

THE SACRED SHRINES OF ISÉ.

Pages 179-230

Start from Kioto-Otsu-Lake Biwa-The famous temples of Ishiyama-

dera-Their legendary origin-An ancient authoress-The extraordi-

nary mountain pass of Sudsuga-Jinriki-sha men-Pilgrims to Isé—

The road to the shrines-Legend of a pine-tree-Matsuzaka, the birth-

place of Motoöri—His writings—A wet evening-Visit to a girls' school

-More pilgrims-The Geku shrine-The goddess worshipped there-

Offence of the god Susanoo-Origin of the imperial regalia of Japan-

The Naiku or inner shrine of the sun-goddess-The sacred mirror—

The pilgrims at the end of their pilgrimage-A ceremonial temple

dance performed by virgin priestesses-Shinto worship at its most

sacred shrine-Solemn woods-The ancient faith-" A study in blue

and gold "The "Temple of Immortal Splendour"—The return—

Picturesque scenes-
es-Still pilgrims-Their costumes and equipments-

The simplicity and purity of Shinto worship

CHAPTER XI.

NAGOYA AND THE SHRINE OF THE SACRED SWORD.

231-261

The town of Tsu-An attack of illness in Yokkaichi-Amateur artists-

Habits of the Japanese-Mountain scenery-Sail on a river-The town

of Miya-The Atsuta shrine-The sacred sword "Cloud Cluster

Yamato-Daké-His expedition against the Ainos-The name of the

sword changed to "Grass-mower "-Native history of the sacred sword

-Estimation in which swords are held in Japan-Their forms and

qualities-Sword-making a profession of honour-Sword inscriptions—

Etiquette of the sword-The city of Nagoya-A banquet and an ex-

hibition of porcelain-Amateur drawings and writings-Nagoya Castle

-Its towers surmounted with golden fishes—An attempt to steal them

-History of the castle-Kato Kiyomasa, its designer-Palace of the

Shogun

Pages 262-276

CHAPTER XII.

TO SHIDZUOKA: THE HOME OF THE TOKUGAWAS.

Early departure from Nagoya-The great Tokaido road-Monument to

"the Shogun of three days"-Okazaki, the birthplace of Iyéyasu-

Yoshida-A famous artist-Our picturesque procession-Miraculous

appearance of the goddess Kwannon-A colossal statue to the goddess

-Fuji-yama again-A shrine of splendour-Beauty of the sea-The

gate of Arai-The fishers of Mayezaka-Bridge over the Tenriu, 4000

feet long-A windy day in the hills-Kagos, or mountain chairs-

Swiss-like scenery-A scene for artists-A tunnel through a mountain

-Shidzuoka-Lacquer, inlaid, and bamboo work-Japanese tea-culti-

vation-Large exports of tea-Iyéyasu's love of literature-The last of

the Tycoons-A picture painted by him-An eminent litterateur-

Legends of the Night-crying Stone, the Sworded Pheasant, and the

Wishing Bell
277-292

-

CHAPTER XIII.

FUJI-YAMA AND THE HAKONÉ MOUNTAINS.

Height, solitude, and solemnity of the sacred mountain-A dormant rather

than an extinct volcano-Legend of its origin-Cultivation of its slopes

-Pilgrimages to its summit-lts splendid appearance-Seikenji, or

"Clear View Temple "-Temple treasures-The Mikado's gifts of gold

cups Saruga Bay Fish-drying — Production of salt-Arrival at

Mishima- The great Shinto temple-Chief priest Mayada-More

treasures-A vase of the god-period-" God's food "-The kago of

Mishima's god-Mountain-kagos-Discomfort of the kago to Euro-

peans-" Asleep at the wrong end "-Splendid scenery of the Hakoné

mountains-Views of the Idzu hills-The Japanese nightingale—

Roadside scenes-Fuji disappears in the mist-Police escorts of the

ministers - Dangerous effects of foreign pressure — Hakoné lake-

Kaempfer's description-Hakoné gate in the old days-Mountain and

forest beauty- Asleep in a kago-The Sea of Sagami-The baths of

Yumoto-A native hotel-Mixed bathing—“Honi soit qui mal y pense!"

- Our final day on the Tokaido-Speed of the jinriki-sha men-

Neglected state of the great high-road-Second arrival in Tokio-A

hearty welcome .

. Pages 293-310

APPENDICES:-

Treaties and Conventions

List of Emperors.

List of year-periods

Comparative table of words in Japanese, West African,

and other languages.

Celebrated swords and makers

INDEX

311-325

326, 327

328-330

331-337

338-342

343-356

YOSITUNÉ RIDING ON THE TENGU; 2. TAIBO, A FABULOUS

THE GREAT TEMPLE OF DAI-BUTSU, AT NARA
ORIGIN OF THE KAKE-MONO, OR HANGING PICTURE

PAGE