CHAPTER VII.

THE CITY OF OSAKA.

Approach to the city-Well-managed railways-The imperial receptionhouse-Governor Watanabé-A nursery garden-Views over the cityKozu, the temple of deified emperors-Another Shinto temple-An ancient Buddhist temple-Reminiscences of Prince Shotoku-taishi— The temple of the sea-gods-A musical service therein-A prehistoric boat-Divine jewels (magatama)—A Japanese fair-The castle of Osaka -Its modern arsenal-Immense monoliths-A ceiling of arrows—A gilded roof-The castle keep-Inspections of barracks-Studious soldiers -A private Japanese dinner-A public dinner-Japanese music and dances-A speech by the President of the Chamber of Commerce-A pretty compliment-Dramatic performances-A purchasing expedition -The power of art-Presents-The imperial mint-The new coinage -Output of the mint.

ON leaving Kobé, and before coming in view of Osaka, the neighbourhood of a great commercial city was made manifest by the presence on the distant bay of from two to three hundred junks of all sizes, including many of obviously sea-going character. The district through which the train bore us was no less significant of agricultural activity, for although much of the land was but poor, consisting indeed of little more than sand washed freely down from the neighbouring hills, yet every foot of it was carefully cultivated, and the road swarmed with villages. We passed through several tea-plantations on our way, and we were informed that the district is a notable one for the distillation of the best description of saké, the native wine. It was a lovely sunny afternoon as we rolled through this land of industry and peace, and it was with pleasure that we presently saw the high white castle walls of Osaka

shine brightly forth. On this short railway journey, and on our arrival at the Osaka station, we had renewed evidences of the efficient business-like manner in which the Japanese have taken to railway management, and likewise to the English police system, nothing being wanting to the orderly and rapid despatch of trains and passengers, and the stations being such as would improve the credit of many English towns if transferred to them.

Upon the bank of the main river, and at no great distance from the famous castle, are the European buildings of the great government mint, including a handsome residence known as the imperial reception house, which on one or two occasions has accommodated the emperor during his visits, and is available for the general use of the state. There not being yet a European hotel in Osaka-at least we saw and heard of none-we were courteously received in this official house, a distinction doubtless due to our association with his excellency the minister of marine. Here were our headquarters for more than a week, during which, however, we made our excursion to the ancient capital of Nara, and were besides so hospitably treated by the governor, the military authorities, and the leading merchants of the city, that we seldom found ourselves within the walls of our residence save at night.

The day succeeding our arrival was spent in company of the governor, Mr. Watanabé, who, like the governors of Kioto and Tokio, holds his appointment from the crown. The kindness of this gentleman to us was equal to the high reputation which he bears, and he is a man who has rendered

"His imperial majesty the Tenno visited Yamato province, to offer personal worship to Jimmu Tei, on the second month of this year, 1877, and on his return from that province his majesty made a short stay at Osaka, and on the fourteenth day of the second month, the Sempukuwan (imperial reception house) of the mint was converted into the 'Anzaisho' (temporary residence of

the Mikado). On the 15th his majesty condescended to inspect the mint, and before retiring ordered presents to be made to the officials, foreign and Japanese, according to their ranks. On the 16th his majesty the Tenno left the Anzaisho' (Sempukuwan) at 9.40 A.M., and returned to Saikei (Kioto) by train." --Mint Report.'

signal service to the state. Besides handsome presents, exhibiting the productions of the city in artificial flowers and other specialties, he on one occasion took me into the sword room of his residence, and bade me choose from among at least a score of swords, most of which had associations that gave them special value to him, any one I preferred. As politely as I could I declined the privilege, but on getting back to Kioto a few weeks afterwards I found awaiting me as a present from him a splendid sword by one of the first makers, Yoshikagé of Bizen, valued in the official certificate that accompanied it at one hundred and thirty pieces of gold. I mention this as an illustration of the thoroughness of the generous attentions which were shown to us, even in the provinces, and far from the capital.

The first place to which the governor conducted us was a famous nursery garden and tea-house, where we saw to the best advantage possible at the season of the year (February 17) the characteristic plants of Japan-miniature evergreens, blossoming miniature plum shrubs, miniature pine-trees, small sage palms, small red-berry plants, drooping shrubs grown in pots, Chinese and Japanese bamboo-plants, curious grasses and ferns, camellias and camellia creepers, plants curiously grown into circular and serpentine forms, strange cacti, etc. Visiting a small tower, we gained a splendid view over the city-that city, the reader may remember, over which the ancient emperor Nintoku looked when he realised the distress of his people, and the revival of which he regarded as evidence of his own prosperity. Osaka was not then, however, as it now is, a city of nearly one hundred thousand houses and more than three hundred thousand people, neglecting suburbs and the towns that all but adjoin it. At a later period of the day we ascended the spot on which Nintoku stood, upon which a temple now stands, where he is worshipped, and from which the view over the city and plains beyond is superb. Nintoku reigned fifteen centuries and a half ago, and I was shown a plan of the city at that period; beyond a few temples there was but

little city to speak of. In a map made seven hundred to eight hundred years ago, which also we saw, vessels were shown floating where the centre of the city now is. From the elevation of which I have spoken the Venetian character of the modern city was very visible, but not so manifest as one sees it to be on driving about the streets. It is everywhere intersected with rivers and canals, spanned by innumerable bridges, and alive with countless vessels and boats gliding hither and thither.

The first temple visited-that just before referred to― was the Shinto temple of Kozu, where several gods (kami) are worshipped, and thirty six poets are celebrated. The chief kami are the emperors Nintoku, Chuai, Ojin, Jingu (empress), and Richiu, their worship commencing a thousand years ago, in the reign of Seiwa-Tenno.

The next temple visited was likewise of the Shinto type, and known as that of Ikudama (in Higashi nari gori). The gods worshipped here are two in number, viz. 1. Ikukuni dama, and 2. Tarukuni dama. These gods were first adored in the forty-ninth year of Jimmu-Tenno's reign, and have therefore been worshipped for nearly twenty-five centuries. This temple is also very ancient, having been originally founded on what is now the site of the castle, in the third year of the reign of Ojin-Tenno (273 A.D.), and subsequently removed to its present site in the year 1585. At this temple also we were met by the priests, who took great interest in our visit, and explained the uses, or rather services, of the gohei and "mirror" to us.

We were next conducted to the ancient and celebrated Buddhist temple of Korujo, in Tennoji. This temple was founded in the very early days of Buddhism, at the request of the famous prince Shotoku-taishi, of whom I have written much in former chapters. It was so founded in the year 589 A.D., but was removed to its present site ten years later. It has existed, therefore, for nearly thirteen hundred years, and includes among its treasures, which were obligingly shown to us, several sacred books brought over from Korea in those early days; an arrow used in the struggle against