ner, without diftinction of rank, age, or fex. Those of former times are scattered, like Jews, with their long beards and brown complexions, all over the face of the earth and, even of the prefent century, Barons of the most ancient families, armed cap-a-pée, are to be purchased for two or three ducats, in most of the towns of Germany. French Marquifes, in fullfuits of embroidered velvet, may be had at Paris ftill cheaper; and many worshipful citizens of London are to be seen dangling on the walls of an auction-room, when they are fcarce cold in their graves.

LETTER LI

Rome.

TH

HERE are no theatrical entertainments permitted in this city, except during the Carnival; but they are then attended with a degree of ardour unknown in capitals whose inhabitants are under no fuch restraint. Every kind of amusement, indeed, in this gay feason, is followed with the greateft eagerness. The natural gravity of the Roman citizens is changed into a mirthful vivacity; and the ferious, fombre city of Rome exceeds Paris itself in sprightliness and gaiety. This fpirit seems gradually to augment, from its commencement; and is at its height in the last week of the fix which comprehend the Carnival. The citizens then appear in the streets, masked, in

the

the characters of Harlequins, Pantaloons, Punchinellos, and all the fantastic variety of a masquerade. This humour fpreads to men, women, and children; defcends to the lowest ranks, and becomes univerfal. Even those who put on no mafk, and have no defire to remain unknown, reject their ufual clothes, and affume fome whimsical drefs. The coachmen, who are placed in a more confpicuous point of view than others of the fame rank in life, and who are perfectly known by the carriages they drive, generally affect fome ridiculous difguife: Many of them choose a woman's dress, and have their faces painted, and adorned with patches. However dull these fellows may be, when in breeches, they are, in petticoats, confidered as the pleasantest men in the world; and excite much laughter in every ftreet in which they appear. I obferved to an I:alian of my acquaintance, that, confidering the ftaleness of the joke, I was furprised at the mirth it feemed

feemed to raife. "When a whole city," answered he," are refolved to be merry "for a week together, it is exceedingly "convenient to have a few established "jokes ready made; the young laugh at "the novelty, and the old from prefcrip"tion. This metamorphofis of the coach66 men is certainly not the moft refined "kind of wit; however, it is more harm"less than the burning of heretics, which formerly was a great fource of amuse"ment to our populace."

*

The street, called the Corfo, is the great scene of these masquerades. It is crowded every night with people of all conditions: Those of rank come in coaches, or in open carriages, made on purpose. A kind of civil war is carried on by the company, as they pass each other. The greatest mark of attention you can fhew your friends and acquaintance, is, to throw a handful of little white balls, refembling fugar-plumbs,

full

full in their faces; and if they are not deficient in politeness, they will instantly return you the compliment. All who with to make a figure in the Corfo, come well fupplied in this kind of ammunition.

Sometimes two or three open carriages, on a fide, with five or fix perfons of both fexes in each, draw up oppofite to each other, and fight a pitched battle. On these occafions, the combatants are provided with whole bags full of the fmall shot above mentioned, which they throw at each other, with much apparent fury, till their ammunition is exhaufted, and the field of battle is as white as fnow.

The peculiar dreffes of every nation of the globe, and of every profeffion, befides all the fantaftic characters ufual at mafquerades, are to be feen on the Corfo. Thofe of Harlequin and Pantaloon are in great Vogue among the men. The citizens' wives and daughters generally affect the VOL. II. pomp

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