Sir: The cast iron monument on York Ledge having at last, under the most difficult circumstances, been completed and secured to the rock, thus furnishing to scamen an important and conspicuous designator of this dangerous reef, it gives me pleasure to communicate to you a description of its structure, in connexion with a short account of the history of the undertaking as furnished from the journal of Mr. Gridley Bryant, under whose superintendence it was erected. The novelty of the design in this country of erecting iron beacons upon reefs and sunken rocks, the peculiar character and situation of the Ledge in question and the circumstances under which this beacon was constructed, tend to make the account somewhat interesting to all who have the least concern in the navigation of our coast and especially to those whose immediate interest is confined along cur eastern shores.

danger to the boats and men, from the tremendous swell which broke around the Ledge in every direction. During the progress of erection he made many attempts to land, but was obliged to relinquish the effort after having rowed in his boats five or six miles in a rough and heavy sea.

It was in consideration of the peculiar character and situation of York Ledge, its limited extent and the difficult landing upon it, that I proposed in my report to you on this subject, an iron spar beacon as the most suitable and conspicuous mark which could be erected there. This kind of monument would require the least amount of time and labor on the rock before setting up, would better resist the fury of the sea, and would be more firm and enduring than a structure of any other material. The utility of iron for purposes of this kind has been thoroughly proved in Great Britain, and the first experiment which was tried, still continues to exhibit the strength and durability of cast iron beacons erected in the most exposed situation. The first iron beacon of this kind was erected by Mr. Stevenson, Civil Engineer, on Carr Rock, coast of Scotland, a most dangerous rock, in situation and extent much resembling York Ledge. I accordingly adopted a similar form of beacon to the one there erected. This beacon is composed of six cast iron hollow pillars each 224 feet long, 12 inches diameter at the lower end on which is cast a flanch: they are 10 inches in diameter at the top, and are cast in two parts which are connected together by faucet joints. These pillars or columns are disposed at the base in a hexagonal form and inclined inwardly so as to meet and rest against each other at the top, thus

by the feet of the columns, and secured to the rock is an iron centre plate with sockets, from which radiate six diagonal braces, which are secured in the sockets of the centre plate by hook joints and spear bolts. These braces are cast hollow and incline towards, and butt against, the main pillars on which are cast arms, to which the braces are secured by bolts passing through, both arm and brace. The tops of the main pillars where they meet, rest against an iron centre block, which gives additional solidity and strength to this part of the structure; over the apex thus formed by the meeting of the columns and centre block, enclosing the

This rock, in consequence of its dangerous situation, ly-forming a hexagonal pyramid: within the base thus formed ing direc.ly in the way of vessels bound to Portsmouth and York Harbors, from the eastward, and indeed to all whose course lies inside of the Isles of Shoals, has long been an object of anxiety and dread to seamen, as its situation could rarely be seen or inferred but when it was indicated by breakers which, in consequence of the depth of water upon it at high tide, only broke over it at low water or in severe storms. In moderate weather, otherwise favorable for coasters and ships, coming into Portsmouth harbor inside of the Isles of Shoals, nothing was to be seen by which the situation of the Ledge could be known, and very few vessels would make the attempt of reaching this port from the direc-whole is an iron tubular cap which rises eight feet above the tion in which it lies. Frequent wrecks and losses have been the consequences of these attempts before the beacon was erected.

At times of ordinary tides, no part of the Ledge is bare excepting occasionally the projecting point of some detatched rock rising perhaps a foot above the level of common low water, and it is only at the lowest spring tides that the Ledge to any extent is left uncovered, and even the part then exposed, is so much broken and indented with hollows and crevices, that but one or two tolerably fair portions offer sufficient space to land upon for any purpose of building or observation. The ordinary extent of the Ledge left exposed at low spring tides is about the dimensions of 250 by 169 feet, but I have landed upon it in calm weather when the tide fell unusually low, when an area of nearly two acres remained bare, but over this whole surface the greatest space which offered any facilities for landing and building did not exceed the extent of 200 square feet; and this portion did not average an elevation of more than two feet above the level of the sea, at that time. The nearest land is a part of York, Me. about four miles distant: the eastern point of the Isles of Shoals is about seven miles off, and in every other direction the Ledge is completely exposed to the fury of the severe storms which happen so frequently in the winter upon this coast in calm or moderate weather the heavy ground swell breaks around and over it in every direction, rendering the attempt of landing, on most occasions, utterly impossible, and even in the calmest weather when alone practicable, a business requiring the utmost care and prudence to prevent the boats from getting stove or swamped. Although during the whole time operations were continued on the rock, a period of 500 days, every opportunity which occurred for landing was improved, yet Mr. Bryant had but 99 days in which he was enabled to get upon the rock at all: many of these occasions were attended with the greatest difficulty and

tops of the pillars, and rests on an iron ring previously placed around them. The upper end of this cylindrical cap is surmounted with an iron ball three and a half feet in diameter, cast in ribs which are enclosed in an iron ring with the inscription " York Ledge, 1840." The whole structure is well keyed and wedged together, and an additional security given to the whole, by wrought iron braces, which are fitted in grooves cast on the collars where the radiating braces are joined to the main pillars: these wrought iron braces are keyed together and enclose the main columns of the beacon as by a hoop. To give further security and solidity to the beacon, the hollow cavities of the columns, braces and tubu lar cap, are filled with hydraulic cement, which most effec tually prevents the sea from entering any part. The whole of the exterior is painted black, except the ribs of the ball, which are alternately colored red and black.

This form of beacon having been approved, Mr. Emerson of Portland, took the contract for the iron work, and Mr. Bryant of Boston undertook the business of its erection upon the rock.

The first object to effect, was to decide upon a suitable place on the shore at the nearest point to the Ledge for an encampment for the party which was to proceed with the work. The most favorable position for this purpose was at Godfrey's Cove in the town of York, its distance from the Ledge being about five miles. Here a temporary house for the accommodation of the men was erected, and proper facilities obtained for making and repairing the tools, &c.From the 8th of February, to April 15th, 1840, Mr. Bryant's time was principally engaged in making these preparations and preparing tools and means for the commencement of the work. He had three life boats built after a plan of his own, which were particularly adapted for the purposes intended, and for landing through heavy seas as would of ten be required in a work of this kind. These boats were

of a light draught of water, built in the strongest and most thorough manner, possessing great buoyancy and stability: they were implicitly trusted in by the men, whose confidence arose from experiencing on more than one occasion their utility and safety: it was on the second excursion to the Ledge that their powers were fully proved. Mr. Bryant says, on this occasion he went out with two of the boats and seven men, but was not enabled to land. The wind freshened and soon blew a violent gale, the boats were constantly taking in water, and the party were three and a half hours in reaching the shore on their return, but were completely satisfied with the capacities of the boats. Such continued to be the confidence reposed in these boats, that the men, when prevented by the roughness of the weather from landing on the Ledge, would often in the heaviest seas employ their time in fishing.

As the operations on the Ledge previously to the erection of the beacon, were to be confined principally to drilling the large holes for the reception of the main pillars, Mr. Bryant constructed a large drilling machine, to be fixed permanently to the rock until the holes were completed. By this arrangement a great inconvenience as well as loss was avoided in carrying a large number of heavy tools on every occasion of going to the Ledge, which otherwise would have been obliged to be left at the risk of being washed away before returning. This machine was perfected, and during the whole period of working answered most thoroughly the object intended. On the first of May Mr. Bryant had these preliminary arrangements completed and had procured a party of eight men ready to commence the undertaking as soon as suitable weather and tides should occur to admit of landing. Of this party Mr. Joseph W. Coburn was engaged as foreman, and Mr. Elisha Turner as blacksmith, both of whom had been engaged a considerable time previous.

to cling firmly to some part of the drilling machine or bolt, to prevent being washed off. In the whole of the month of July upwards of twenty landings were effected, some favorable days giving opportunities for getting on the Ledge at both morning and evening low tides.

In the months of August and September, thirty-four landings were obtained, two being frequently eflected in one day: on some occasions, however, in the latter month, although the men were successful in landing, yet they could do no work, owing to the extremely heavy breakers. In all October, but three landings were effected, and these too, with the utmost difficulty and danger; the boats being frequently filled with water, and the men only by the most strenuous exertions succeeded in reaching the land.

As the season for profitable operations was now so far advanced, Mr. Bryant had but little prospect of doing any more work upon the Ledge until the next year, but with the hope that a few landings might possibly be had in the month of November he retained all his men until the 23d, without however succeeding in a single attempt; despairing now of any further success he discharged all hands for the season. Mr. Emerson arrived in this month with the iron-work of the beacon and landed at York Harbour.

Induced by the moderate weather in the latter part of January, 184, Mr. Bryant resolved again to attempt carrying on operations at the Ledge, and after one unsuccessful excursion he landed with a small party on the 5th of February and obtained about fifty minutes' work. On the 6th he made another landing which was the last until March 10th, when one hour and forty-five minutes were occupied in the work: this was the only landing effected in March, and the month of April followed with but little better success, as only two landings were secured, and on the latter occasion the men could work but ten minutes when they were driven off by the breakers.

During the month of May nine landings were made and the drilling for the main pillars so far advanced, that on the 17th of June, Mr. Bryant concluded to carry out the first or lower section of the Beacon, which was safely landed on the Ledge. On the 21st, the derrick for hoisting the pillars into their places was carried out, but as the sea prevented the party from landing, it was anchored off the Ledge until a favorable opportunity should occur for setting it up, which however did not happen till the 24th: the centre plate of the Beacon was secured on the 23d. On the 26th of May, the first column was set up and secured, the men working to the middle in the water.

In the month of June all the pillars comprising the lower

The first landing on the Ledge was effected with a party of eight men on the 19th of May, no previous opportunity occurring in consequence of the state of the tides and weather. The first object to be accomplished was to decide, upon and clear away a portion of the rock for the site of the beacon. The holes for securing the drilling machine were then commenced, and one six inches deep was sunk for the reception of the centre shaft. The party on this occasion worked one and a half hours, when the tide obliged them to return. From this time they had no opportunity of landing on the Ledge till the 31st of May, when at 3 o'clock in the morning a party of seven men and two boats succeeded in landing and getting one and a half hours work. At 3 P. M. they again started for the rock, but could not land on account of the heavy sea; they were obliged to return-but the fur-section were set in their places, and Mr. Bryant says from ther particulars of this attempt have been before alluded to. the period of the first landing of this part of the Beacon, unOn the morning of the next day another landing was made til it was set up and secured, the whole party were obliged and two hours were employed in levelling the rock for the to work in the water, continually exposed to the seas as they centre plate of the beacon. In the afternoon the attempt to broke over the rock, which as they advanced would force land was unsuccessful; the next morning, however, a land- the men to cling firmly to some part of the work to prevent ing was effected, notwithstanding the heavy sea which being carried away. The waves would lift them entirely breached almost continually across the Ledge; the men, off the rock, while the body by this movement would rest in however, contrived to work on the rock one hour and twenty a horizontal posture until the force of the wave was spent minutes, after which, as the sea increased, they were forced and relieved the feet from this elevated position. From reto leave. From this time they were not enabled to land un-maining so long in the water, sores were produced on all of til the ninth of June, when one hour and twelve minutes the party, and the skin was constantly decorticating from the were obtained; the remainder of this month offered but six feet and hands. opportunities for getting upon the Ledge, and from the commencement of work to this period, but eleven landings had been secured, giving in the whole time an amount of nineteen hours and twenty-three minutes for active operations. The first part of the month of July, on account of weathered as permanently secured and finished. er and tides, was very favorable for the prosecution of the work, and during the first eight days of this month, the men had obtained as many landings and employed seventeen hours and forty-five minutes to good advantage. In this period the drilling machine was secured to the rock and put in operation for drilling the main holes for the beacon. By this time, the men had become well accustomed to the work, and though on some occasions heavy seas would breach across the Ledge, they would continue at their occupations with apparent indifference; it was necessary, however, when a larger wave than common broke over the rock, to be ready

The remainder of the Beacon was landed, set up and secured to the Ledge in the first part of the month of July: a few landings more were necessary to complete the keying, painting, &c., and on the 20th the whole work was consid

Perhaps a more unfavorable position than York Ledge, where a Beacon or Light-house would be required, and upon which it would be at all possible to build, will not often occur. The circumstances detailed in the account of theerection of this Beacon show, that almost as great difficulties as a work of this nature could possibly present, were overcome by the skill and energy of competent and courageous workmen ; and probably, many dangerous rocks and shoals on our coast and in the vicinity of our harbors, which have proved the destruction of valuable ships and cargoes from the want of some distinguishing mark to indicate their position, still