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CHAPTER IIL
THE FELLAH
Heliopolis-The Delta-The Peasant Cultivator-Towfik Pasha-The
Obelisk-The Inscription-Other Obelisks .. Pages 84-108
CHAPTER IV.
DERVISHES,
The Coptic and Muslim Calendars-The Egyptian Saints' Days-The
Dervish is not a Monk-The Colours of Turbans-The Descendants
of Mohammed-The Pilgrims' Return-The Mahmal—The Dosch.
Pages 109-124
CHAPTER V.
THE BOOLAK MUSEUM.
The Peculiarity of the Collection-M. Mariette's Researches-The
most Ancient Art in the World-Enumeration of the Chief
Examples of the Early Period - Conclusions as to Life and
Manners under the Ancient Kings-A Discourse of Scarabs.
Pages 125-147
CHAPTER VI.
THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHINX.
How English Tourists see the Pyramids-The Great Time-passage
Theory-The True History of Pyramids-A List of Pyramids
from the Papyri-Their Identification-Pyramids now remaining
-Their Comparative Heights-The Riddle of the Sphinx unsolved
-The Question of the Tablet-Its Want of Authority-The Use
of the Sphinx in Hieroglyphs-The Table of Thothmes-
Description from Charlotte Brontë-An Irreverent Sightseer.
Pages 148-169
CHAPTER VII.
BABYLON.
The Chains of Egypt-Nicopolis, the Roman Camp at Ramleh—
Turkish Demolitions-El Kab-Dakkeh-Kasr e' Shemma-The
Churches-The Walls-Comparison with the Walls of London.
Pages 170-181
CHAPTER VIII.
EDUCATION IN EGYPT,
An Abortive Scheme-Government Schools-Missions-The University
of the East-College Life in Cairo-Ordinary Schools in Cairo-
In Country Villages-Blind Guides-Coptic Schools-Towfik's
Schools for Girls. Pages 182-194
CHAPTER IX.
THE JOURNEY TO SIOOT.
The Steamer-Bedreshayn-A Difficulty-An English Beauty-An
Egyptian Beauty-Corkscrews-The Children at the Stations-
Maydoom-A Thirsty Journey-Beni Hassan Pages 195-221
.
CHAPTER X.
SIOOT.
The Town-The Mountain-The Tombs-The Caravan Started-The
Arabs-The Copts-Our First Camping Place. Pages 222-234
CHAPTER XI.
THE GREEK SHOP AT SOOHAG.
Tahta-Anteeka-hunting-A Disappointment-Luncheon-Benhow-
Sunset A Ride in the Dark-A Forced March-Dangers-The
Scot Abroad-The Country Disturbed-Soohag-Another Dis-
appointment Pages 235-250
CHAPTER XII.
THE DONKEYS.
Importunate Beggars-St. Christopher-The Character of William
Rufus-The other Donkeys-Arab Towns and Villages-Girgeh.
Pages 251-263
CHAPTER XIII.
THE ANCIENT THIS.
An excited Antiquary-Egyptian Chronology-Arabat-el-Madfooneh---
The Temples-The Sacred Windhover-Edfoo-The Table of
Abydos-Casabianca-A Hill of Tombs-An Old Brick Fort.
Pages 264-287
CHAPTER XIV.
THE TABLE OF ABOOD.
French Antiquaries-A long Delay-A Messenger-A long Walk-
Rumours of the Famine
Pages 288-293
CHAPTER XV.
THE FAMINE.
The Morning Scene-A Starving Family-A Deserted Child--How---
Shocking Sights in the Market-place-How to acquire an Estate-
How to Buy and Sell Land-The Assessment of the Taxes-The
Semaineh
Famine easily Prevented Mr. Rivers Wilson
Marashteh-A Young Gentleman-A Deserted Village-A Dinner
Party-Good Manners .
-
Pages 294-307
CHAPTER XVI.
DENDERA.
The Desert-A Prize-Dendera-The Ferry-Camping Ground at
Keneh-The Cook's Estate-The Inevitable Potentate.
Pages 308-320
CHAPTER XVII.
GYPT.
Kench-Coptos―Copts—“Backsheesh Keteer"-The Ruins of Gypt
-The Name of Egypt-A Lecture-Goos-Early to Bed-A
Rembrandtesque Effect
Pages 321-329
CHAPTER XVIII.
AMEN.
Shenhoor-A Martyr's Grave-A Mirage-A Sandstorm-The View
of Karnac-The Dedication of the Temple-Amen, Lord of
Poont-Hymn to Amen-Ra-Karnac, a Christian Church-The
Obelisks of Hatasoo-The Ride ended
Pages 330-342
CHAPTER XIX.
LUXOR.
Dwelling in Tents-Native Society-Poets-Music-An Arabian Night
--The Remains of the 18th and 19th Dynasties-Bulls' Eyes-A
Fright at Dinner-Hiring a Boat-Death at the Hotel-A Funeral
-The Copt Church-The Cemetery
Pages 343-354
CHAPTER XX.
FLOATING DOWN.
The Voyage to Sioot-The Famine District Again-Belianeh-A
Hospitable Sheykh—A Concert-Sioot
APPENDIX
INDEX
Pages 355-362
Pages 363-391
Pages 393-399