Aned so many unhappy wretches there) is so great, that its name alone is ren dered terrible to them, and their posterity. This account is not merely matter of curiosity, but affords a very interesting and instructive contrast, between the horrors of a despotic power, and the mild and just administration of a free state; which I hope will ever give me a true relish and love for my country.

"Here Liberty delightful goddess reigns, Gladdens each heart, and gilds the fertile plains ;

Here firmly seated may she ever smile,
And shower her blessings on her fav'rite

Isle."

You will here find truth undisguised, and unadorned, by flowers of rhetoric; a plain simple narrative of mere matter of fact, related purely as the incidents arose. Trifling as they may be, to me they became of importance from my situation. Those who jest at a scar, never felt a wound. Perhaps the sin gularity of this affair, and manner of relation, may cause a smile. If it afford you any entertainment, I shall think

myself happy, as my greatest pleasure will be to acknowledge with gratitude, the honour you do me by your generous friendship, and the many civilities which I have received from you.t

I am, dear Sir,

Your obliged humble servant,

T. MAJOR.

I left London on the 22d of October, 1745, in company with Mr. Hubert Gravelot, an artist, well known for his abilities, with whom I had been a pupil. We embarked in the packet at Harwich, for Helvoet-Sluys, and from thence went to the Hague, with a view of obtaining passports from the French ambassador, to proceed to Paris. Unluckily he had departed from thence, to settle some affairs at his court with the Dutch; for at that time the French had taken possession of part of Flanders. In this dilemina we applied to the EngLord Robert Trevor) but in vain, who lish ambassador, Mr. Hampden, (since finding we had left London at so critical a juncture (the rebellion being in Scotdation to him, he thought proper to reland), and having no letter of recommenfuse us a passport. This delayed our journey till letters were dispatched to Paris, to get recommendations to Marshal Saxe; when these arrived, we went to

Ghent, where the Marshal, very politely, (as artists) granted us the protection we by the common route, through Lisle, &c. wanted, and then we proceeded to Paris and arrived there the latter end of November, 1745. Here I cannot help remarking the strong contrast found be tween the French and the Dutch artists. As I was obliged to stay in Holland till our passports arrived, I was unwilling to lose my time, and therefore applied to Mr. Houbracken, the celebrated engraver, having a letter of recommendation to him from Mr. Paul Knapton, the bookseller, of whom he had taken large sums of money, for engraving the heads of the illustrious persons of Great Britain. I shewed him my juvenile performances, on which he was pleased to pay me some compliments. I offered to work with him without pay, purely for the sake of instruction, and to fill up my time, rather than spend it in idle curiosity. He said, he never employed any body in his house, and could be of no assistance to me. This was a convincing proof of the nar rowness of his mind, and of his close disposition; even though it were to his own advantage, he was unwilling to forward a young man in his studies. Such was Dutch benevolence. In the latter end of October, 1746, I was then studying under the celebrated Monsieur I. P. Le Bas, and was constantly cinployed in

drawing

drawing from the life, in the Royal Aca. demy of Painting. I lodged and boarded with Monsieur Dennis, in St. James'sstreet, opposite St. Bennet's church. When I came home to dinner one day, my landlord told me that a gentleman, very superbly drest, had been enquiring for me, who would neither leave his name nor business, but said he would call again. The same night about eleven o'clock, as I was in my shirt just stepping into bed, my landlord rapt at my door, desiring me to open it; upon hear ing his voice I did so, and a person entered very gaily drest, with several attendants, one of whom was in black. After the first salutations customary in France, (wondering what could bring me such a visitor so late at night), he asked me if my name was Major, whether I came from London, and was a protes tant, to which I answered in the affirma tive. He told me that he had an order to take me before the Lieutenant-Civile, (the chief magistrate of Paris). This was only a deception, that it should not be known where he was going to carry me; I replied, that it was a very late hour to go before such a person, and that I would be ready to attend him any time in the morning. He said his orders were for my going with him then. Whilst I was put ting on my cloaths, they went into the adjoining chamber, except one of them, who staid with me, (1 suppose) lest I should make an escape. This was La Mouche, or spy. As he was sitting, I perceived he held a bag with something in it; I was afterwards informed that it contained the gown of the gentleman in black, who was the commis-ary, or civil magistrate, whose attendance on these occasions upon the exempt, or king's messenger, (for such was my fine gentleman), is merely to keep up the appearance and specious form of liberty, for his refusal would subject him to a hike execrable instrument, as that which I af terwards found they had provided for me, (in gentler language, a Lettre de Cachet). It is said, that these Lettres de Cachet make more havock in France, in one year, than the inquisition in Spain and Turkish cruelty do in ten. The mi. nister has always a number of these war. rants ready to use, upon every occasion,

Churchill.

"Mark'd with a secretary's seal, In bloody letters the Bastille," Before I was quite drest, they returned to my room. As I was going, I knew not where, uor on what account, and money

being at all times a necessary article, [ unlocked my box to take some with me. The gentleman hearing it chink, told me, I should have no occasion for money where I was going- little dreamt that I was to be entertained and lodged at the king's expence. I was then about to put on my sword ;* he said, I had no need of one, I must leave it, they would take great care of me.

On this occasion the whole house was alarmed and in terror, all its inhabitants left their beds, peeping through their win dows, not daring to appear, but secretly enquiring who were the objects of such a visit, and of what crimes they were guilty. My ingenious friend and coun➡ tryman, Mr. Joseph Wilton, sculptor, lodged in the same house, above stairs, with a Mr. Vammeck, a Flanderkin, who informed him of my being seized by an exempt. Mr. Wilton, conscious of his coming to France in time of war as a Fleming, and passing as such to all, except his master, Mr. Pigal (under whom he was studying) and a few friends, was fearful a discovery had been made. With this idea, be very prudently took a little excursion over the tops of the houses, to elude their pursuit, believing they might also be in search of him; and notwithstanding our intimacy and friendship, he had no inclination to accompany me in such an expedition, which would certainly have been the case, had they known he was an Englishman. When the coast was clear, Mr. Vammeck gave him the signal; he returned, but without rest that night. The dread of sharing the same fate made him apply early in the morning to Mr. Pigal, who procured him a protection, by which his fears vanished, and he pursued his studies in safety. As I had no guilt upon my mind, I had no suspicion of harm, and therefore I did not even desire my landlord to accom→ pany me. Had I shewn a difficulty, or made any resistance, the commissary would have put on his magisterial robe, to have shewn his function and authority. Law is but a poor defence where humanity is lost, and conscience lulled asleep. But a stronger and more irresistible method of commanding obedience on such occasions, is the military force attending upon the exempt, to strike the greater terror to delinquents, and to keep those who are of too volatile spirits (in which this country abounds) in subjection.

At that time all the artists of the Royal Academy wore swords.

I was not conscious of any ill, being always cautious in speaking about religion or politics, but diligently pursued my studies, and therefore I could not charge myself with having inadvertently done any thing amiss. I patiently waited, though greatly agitated in my mind, till the return of the exempt, who had taken me up by a lettre de cachet, for such I found was his employment. He did not keep me long in suspense, but carried me across this outer court, to another draw bridge, and another large pair of gates, in which a small wicket door opened, and we passed through a corps of guards. They quitted their amusement of gaming and drinking; their attention and remarks, as I passed by them, were immediately fixed on a miserable being, condemned as they thought to punishment, expecting to find guilt and terror marked on my countenance, perhaps forming in their minds a variety of crimes, so frequent among themselves. Beyond the corps de garde was a centinel in his box, surrounded with high palisades of wood.

This was a strong barrier plated with iron, which separates the inner court from the corps de garde. The space within might be about fifteen or twenty feet for him to walk in. This was a precaution I had never seen in any fortified towns or places. It was to prevent any prisoner who might have dexterity enough to escape, (which is next to impossible) from his apartment into the court, from attacking the centinel by surprize, who could defend himself by firing at him through the bars. We crossed this second court, which was an oblong square; it was about one hundred and twenty, by eighty feet broad at the upper end, in the centre fronting the gate; we went up five stone steps, to the governor's apartments, before whom I was brought. To arrive there, you must pass two draw bridges and five gates, all of which have sentries and three posts of guards. The castle is encircled with a dry ditch, twenty-five feet deep, and one hundred and twenty feet wide, round which is a wooden gallery, with sentries, and a patrole at night, who go their rounds every half hour; the signal was given by ring ing a bell. This is to keep all safe, and to see that no attempts are made towards rescuing the prisoners. MONTHLY MAG. 185.

The governor (the Marquis de Thiboutot, who was also keeper of the ar senal,) was then sitting in a silk nightgown, in an arm-chair, before the fire. The exempt delivered me into his custody, and then very respectfully withdrew, having done his office. The governor, who seemed a very polite and affable man, asked me the same questions which had been asked before by the exempt, to which I answered him in the same manner. Possibly the reason of this civil treatment might arise from the account he had received from the exempt, given him by my landlord at the time I was dressing, when he was making particular enquiries concerning my occupation, and the connections I had in France. governor enquired if I had any papers about me; I told him, I had; he desired to see them. They were a pocket-book, and a letter or two, which he looked over, (whether he understood English or not, I cannot say) and returned them to me again. He then asked me if I had any penknives or scissars, I told him I had not, upon which the gaoler, or keeper, said, "Sir, if you please, I will search him!" He replied, "there is no occasion; I believe I may take his word.”

The

He perceived that I had an open countenance, that I answered his questions without dread; and as a sensible man he made the proper allowances for the anxiety which must naturally attend any one upon such an occasion.

The governor told me to follow the keeper, and he would conduct me to my lodging. He took a candle and lanthorn, and held a coarse pair of sheets under his arm.

Led softly by the stillness of the night,
Young.

Led like a murderer."

With grave and solemn pace, while all was awful silence, we crossed this inner court, to one of the angles on the right hand, and on the left, coming in through the palisades, where a drawbridge was let down, and a door was opened, he went up circular stairs, and opened two other strong doors, each about seven inches thick, an outer and an inner one. This last, within side, was plated with iron. All the doors were fastened with large bolts, let into enormous locks. The keeper set the candle upon the table, threw down the sheets upon the bed, and said, "Sir, shift for yourself as well as you can, I wish you a good night" Without further ceremony, he shut the door upon me with a tremendous noise, and the faithful echo,

3 L

from

from the vaulted roof, returned the doleful sound, enough to make the most resolute mind tremble, leaving me to my self and reflection.

In this deplorable situation, the first thing I did was to look round the room, which was about fifteen feet high, and twenty feet wide. Here I found large crosses drawn upon the walls, (before which my predecessors used to pay their devotions) and adorned by several inscriptions written with charcoal; such as "dreadful place," "never hope to escape from hence," and other things of like nature, written by persons whose superior sorrows and black thoughts preyed on their dejected spirits, desponding at their wretched state and long connement; besides, they might expect to meet death in every dish, or might conclude the opening of every lock, to be the forerunner of their destruction, and the signal of the arrival of their executioner, as their lives are in no greater security than their liberty. These uncommon and hideous manuscripts, had such an effect upon me, and rendered my new lodging so disgusting, that I next examined whether it might not be possible for me to escape. I surveyed and felt the small window, it was barred with iron about the size of my wrist, within and without, consequently there were no hopes of getting out that way. A thought came into my head (rash and imprudent as it might be), that being a slim little fellow, perhaps I might be able to get up the chimney. Hlad this been practicable, I verily believe, in the agony and state of mind I then was, that I should have attempted it, whatever had ensued, so sweet is hiberty. On examination, I found it barred about three feet up, so that I was as effectually secured from the rest of mankind, as if I had been an outcast from all society, and in the profoundest oblivion buried in the innermost bowels of the earth. I never heard of any one, whose unhappy lot it was to be secured in this place, of having made an escape (though some strange tales of this sort are related), as every, vigilance and precaution possible is taken, to render a scheme of that kind abortive. It was now my grandfather's words struck most forcibly upon my troubled

As

imagination; for he had affectionately urged many arguments, to dissuade me from going to France in time of war, pointing out to me, in strong colours, the inconveniencies and risk I might run, in going to an enemy's country, and that in all probability I might be imprisoned. The earnest desire that I had to perfect myself in my profession, over-balanced all these difficulties: I was determined, at all events, to risk every thing for my sanguine hopes of improvement. his words were now become true, they made the deepest impression on my mind, reflecting, that having slighted his advice, I had now only my own folly and imprudence to blame, for my present unhappy situation, and all the disagree able consequences attending it. All hopes of getting from hence vanishing, I next in sorrowful mood, measured my apartment by unequal strides, walking backwards and forwards, with folded arms, lost in thought; till at length finding myself cold, the place being damp, and the windows broke, admitting the cold air, I made my bed, put the candle in the chimney, and, recommending myself to Providence, lay down in my cloaths. A variety of thoughts crouding into my mind, sleep fied from my eyes till near seven o'clock in the morning. I was awaked by the keeper's unlocking the door about nine.

"On a sudden open fly, With impetuous recoil and jarring sound, The infernal doors, and on their hinges grate Harsh thunder."

Milton's Par. Lost.

It is scarcely possible for words, in any degree, to express the anguish I felt at this instant. Forlorn like an exile from my native country; far from my relations and friends, amidst my enemies in time of war, and imprisoned, without the least shadow of hope or possibility of redress. Recollection coming to my as sistance, by degrees dispelled the torture of my mind, and mitigated the excess of despair.

I found by woeful experience, that no vain effort of imagination can sweeten the dark vapour of a dungeon.

The waiter brought me a bottle of wine and a loaf, the usual French breakfast. After I had refreshed myself, I took another view of my chamber, which was one of the round towers, and within side it was octagon. All the furniture was a chair, a table, a truckle flock bed without a top to it, and an utensil dedicated to Cloacina. Upon the table lay two books, the Office of the Virgin Mary, and