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A POOL OF BETHESDA.

system of Baths the most complete that I have seen anywhere on this side the Atlantic or the other. The Russian baths are as complete as the most luxurious in St. Petersburg, and the Turkish equal to any in Constantinople. In both of them the stranger will find stalwart creatures, speaking a foreign tongue, but who seem to understand their business; who will take him in hand, and steam him till it seems as if every drop of perspiration were oozing from his body, and plunge him into the depths, and bring him up again (still alive!), and "douche " him, and at last, after he has been a long time, as it seems, in the hands of the tormentors, will have mercy upon him, and bring him to gently, and rub him with soft warm towels, till there comes over him a delicious feeling, as if he were, though still in the body, a being of another sphere, purified and glorified, freed from the stains of sin, and indeed rather too good for this world. If after this there should reappear a trace of original sin, it may be necessary, on the second or third day, to repeat the ablution!

But the great feature of the Baths is a Pool, a hundred and fifty feet long, continually supplied with water from an artesian well, which is the largest in the world. As this is tinctured with sulphur, the stream is carried over the roof of an adjoining building, where it is exposed to the air, and is so thoroughly aerated that it is as fresh and pure as if it were from a mountain spring. This supply of water from above instead of below, has a pretty effect, as it falls into the Pool in a cascade, which keeps it always stirring, as if the angel of healing were descending into the waters. In this ample space swimmers at all hours are plunging and splashing, while the band discourses inspiring music, and the galleries are crowded with spectators looking down upon the animated scene.

Here is health united with pleasure-a combination

A BUILDER OF CHURCHES.

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which ought to make us forever grateful to him who has furnished both. The Koran pronounces a blessing upon the man who opens a fountain in the desert, or plants a tree that the pilgrim may rest under its shade! What blessing ought to be his who has opened a Pool of Bethesda, that will continue to flow long after he is gone, to be for the comfort and the healing of many generations!

But Mr. Flagler's efforts for the public good are not confined to the physical purification of his fellow-creatures. He has built two churches. The Methodist came first, as they are pioneers in almost everything; and now he has built us Presbyterians such a "cathedral" that we are persuaded that we have the apostolic succession, and are the true, if not the only true, Church. A man who has supplied such physical and spiritual purification, has certainly done his part both for "cleanliness and godliness."

And now is it not time for him to stop? After these years of labor, the work he has undertaken for St. Augustine must be nearing completion, so that it can all, to use a common phrase, be "fenced in and painted." "Done?" It will never be done as long as he lives. Indeed it is all the time extending; even now he is opening new avenues, paving new streets, building a railway station here, and an iron bridge across the St. John's at Jacksonville, just to keep his hand in; so that if he lives ten years longer, (as he ought, for he is hardly turned of sixty,) he will be recognized, not only as the constructor of a beautiful building, but as the founder of a city.

Of course this marvellous creation, that has sprung up in Florida, like Tadmor in the wilderness, is the wonder of everybody who comes here, and it is amusing to observe the look of surprise of new comers, and hear their expressions of astonishment. And yet the American feeling will crop out, and after they have exhausted their admiration,

50

DOES IT PAY?"

one is sure to hear the subdued question, "Does it pay?" as if nothing great could ever be done except as a speculation; and there are many mysterious inquiries as to what could be the motive of this lavish expenditure so far away from the commercial centres of the country. There is no mystery about the matter. A man who has for many years made his annual visits to this portion of the South, till it has become as attractive to him as it was to Ponce de Leon, (when, enraptured by its perpetual bloom, he named it Florida, the Land of Flowers,) takes it into his mind to create a paradise of beauty somewhat in keeping with the gorgeous tropical vegetation. Fond of grand architecture, and having the means to gratify his taste, he conceives the idea of a building unique in its structure and in its surroundings, which shall be "a thing of beauty" and "a joy forever." Whether it will pay in the common sense, does not enter into his calculations, any more than it does into the mind of one who gives himself a costly library or gallery of paintings. He does it, as an artist paints a picture, for the pleasure of doing it. Is there anything more natural or more reasonable than this? It is indeed something to be proud of, in this commonplace and prosaic age, that there should be one man bold enough to form a design, and to carry it out without flinching, which is simply to put into stone a beautiful dream."

Whether it may not in the end pay even pecuniarily, is a question. When St. Augustine becomes, as we believe it will, the great Winter resort of the United States, and a city grows up around these marvellous buildings, standing in the midst of open squares, as a centre, it is not at all improbable that the money "sunk" so many years before, may yield a full and even ample return. But whether it does or not, is a matter which does not disturb their builder at all. If it does not pay in money, it pays in

REST WITH OCCUPATION.

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another and better way; and we can assure any anxious inquirer that the creator of all this luxury gets a return every day in the sight of the pleasure that it gives.

The best of it all is that his beautiful creation is for the public good. Palaces abroad are for kings and princes. This American palace is open to all-a place of rest and health, as well as of luxury and enjoyment: and he who has placed it within reach of his countrymen, is a public benefactor.

In this delightful retreat I settled down for a Winter vacation. Some may think it a strange place to seek for quiet, in the midst of so much gayety. But the Ponce de Leon is a perfect Liberty Hall. Every man does what is right in his own eyes. He can have as much of society, or as little, as he pleases. As it was not for this that I came, I did not seek it, though entertained by the sight of what passed before my eyes. But to me the charm of the place was its perfect rest, the sweet oblivion of care. Not that I was idle. I could not stand that. I do not find rest in idleness and vacancy, but in change of scene and of occupation. A portion of every day I spent in writing; but it was very different from writing in an office in New York. Here my desk was at an open window, through which came, not only the soft and balmy air, but the music of the band playing in the court below. This did not disturb me, but rather gave an inspiration to my thoughts. With such an accompaniment, I found a pleasure in keeping up communication with the world. If after four or five hours I felt a little weary, I started out on a tramp ; or a ride through the woods, or a sail on the water, made a pleasant close to the happy day.

But the place was not without its excitements, though these were of such a mild character as not to be dangerous. Strangers were constantly coming and going, so that the

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OLD FRIENDS AND NEW FRIENDS.

Rotunda of the Ponce de Leon was a kind of Exchange, where you met people from every city of the North, finding old acquaintances and making new ones. Among the habitués were some who had been in different parts of the world, with whom an old traveller like myself could have many a pleasant hour; while young men and maidens strolled in the grounds in the moonlight, or took their pleasure in the ways they most delight in.

In this company, which embraced first and last a good many notable people, I was most attracted to the creator of all this beauty and luxury, of whom I am restrained from saying all that is in my heart lest I should offend his modesty, for he is one of the most unassuming of men. Seldom is so much strength united with so much sweetness. A man who can do a kindness with such delicacy that he makes you feel as if you were conferring a favor upon him in accepting it, is a master in the fine art of courtesy. Nor was it to me only. So far as I could see, he was the same, though in a more general way, to every one. For weeks we were constantly together, always sitting at the same table, and in all that time I never saw him in the least excited; never heard him speak a work of impatience to anybody or of anybody. I felt this daily association to be a pleasure constantly renewed, and I count it the chief satisfaction of my visit to St. Augustine, that it gave me the opportunity of knowing somewhat intimately one whom I am proud to call my friend.