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versy-a blow from the evangelical pulpit strikes him down, and a thrust from the “ Tracts for the Times” drives him up again; the only difference is, that there is no bond of union amongst his assailants.
It is said, that in a chase of this kind the quarry never escapes ; the fish in question were far too busy to attend to us ; they soon left us behind, and may be worrying each other still, for all I know to the contrary.
That night was unusually mild and clear; the young clergyman and I remained on deck long after the others had gone
below; our talk was grave, but cheerful. There is something in the view of the material heavens at such a time, which always elevates the tone of feeling, and speaks to the heart of its highest hopes, sending you to rest with holy, happy thoughts : so it was
A few minutes before we parted, the bright full moon passed from behind a cloud, and straightway, from us to the faroff horizon, spread a track of pure and tremulous light over the
“ This is not for us alone,” said my companion ; every waking wanderer over the great deep sees this path of glory too. So for each earnest heart upraised to heaven, a light from God himself beams upon the narrow way across the waste of life.”
The wind seemed to blow for ever from the west ; the only variety in our voyage was from one tack to the other. But we had a good ship, she was well handled, and her master never threw away a chance ; so, in spite of all difficulties, we found ourselves within a short distance of land twenty-four days after sailing. It is almost unnecessary to add that there was a fog, and that so thick, that we could scarcely see the bowsprit. An observation had, however, been taken at mid-day, and, having great confidence in the knowledge of our exact position, we kept boldly on, till we distinctly heard breakers in front of us; by the time sail was shortened, we could hear this sound on either side. We were evidently in an indentation of the coast, quite near enough to the rocks to be unpleasant. Guns were fired for a pilot and to notice our approach, and a report from the shore returned a ready answer. At the same time the fog began to rise, first showing the long line of surf on three sides of us, then the
abrupt and rugged cliffs. At length the great curtain folded itself
up for another time, and the scene upon the stage was NewFOUNDLAND.
The mind must be either above or below the usual motive in. fluences of humanity, which does not feel a deep and stirring interest in the first view of the New World : though it be but a dim, faint shadow of what Plato's informant, or Prince Madoc, or Columbus experienced, when the sight of these vast lands, and simple, yet mysterious people, rewarded their almost superhuman venture.
“ The splendor and the havoc of the East” are said to fill the mind of the beholder with sad and solemn meditation on the glories and wonders of countries, whose degradation of to-day seems but the deeper from the relics of their former greatness ; the cities and temples, of an extent and magnificence ever since unrivalled, crumbled into shapeless ruin, leaving scarce a trace of what they once have been; the sunny hills and pleasant valleys, exuberant with luxurious plenty, withered into deserts; the land where the wise men dwelt, and mighty captains governed, ruled over by craven, sensual slaves; the birthplace of an eternal hope, now but the grave of a departed glory. Over this page in the great chronicle of the world, is written the memory of the Past.
Then comes our Europe, with its very large towns, excellent gas lamps, highly efficient police, comfortable churches, with good stoves and ventilation ; with its express trains, and wellregulated post-office, improved steam-boats, electric telegraphs, and electric agriculture, liberal educations, and respectable governments. In all these we feel, and hear, and see, the reality of the Present.
Now we turn to the West. Over its boundless tracts of rich and virgin soil is spreading a branch of the most vigorous among the European families, bearing with them every means and appliance which the accumulated ingenuity of ages can supply, and working them with quenchless energy.
Steamers thrust themselves up unknown rivers; and lo! with the rapidity of a scenic change, the primeval forest yields to the bustling settlement.
In the tangled wilderness, where they can scarcely struggle
through, the surveyors trace out the lines of cities, which tomorrow are to play the part of the Babylon of yesterday, and the London of to-day. They grow great, rich, and intelligent, not with the slow and steady step of older nations, but with a hurried stride ; sometimes, perhaps, wandering a little from the straight path, but, guided by their destiny, still hastening on.
Imagination runs mad in picturing what they have yet to be. In their unacted history we read, plain as the hand-writing at Belshazzar's feast, the promise of the Future.
Newfoundland–The St. Lawrence.
So excellent was the land-fall we had made, that, when the fog cleared away we found the bowsprit of the vessel pointing directly into the harbor of St. John's. The entrance is about two hundred and fifty yards wide, and very difficult of access in bad weather with unfavorable winds : it is walled in by rugged cliffs and barren-looking hills. The defences are respectable, but not formidable, works-one of them facing you as you approach, with watchful cannon pointing up the harbor. There is no bar or shoal, but some dangerous rocks embarrass the entrance; within, there is safe and commodious anchorage for any amount of shipping.
In trying to describe St. John's, there is some difficulty in applying an adjective to it sufficiently distinctive and appropriate. We find other cities coupled with words, which at once give their predominant characteristic :- London the richest, Paris the gayest, St. Petersburgh the coldest. In one respect the chief town of Newfoundland has, I believe, no rival : we may, therefore, call it the fishiest of modern capitals. Round a great part of the harbor are sheds, acres in extent, roofed with cod split in half, laid on like slates, drying in the sun, or rather the air, for there is not much of the former to depend upon. Those ships bearing nearly every flag in the world, are laden with cod; those stout weatherly boats crowding up to the wharves, have just now returned from fishing for cod; those few scant fields of cultivation with lean crops coaxed out of the barren soil, are manured with cod; those trim, snug-looking wooden houses, their handsome furniture, the piano, and the musical skill of the young lady who plays it, the satin gown of the mother, the gold chain of the father, are all paid for in cod; the breezes from the shore, soft and warm on this bright August day, are rich, not with the odors of a thousand flowers, but of a thousand cod. Earth, sea, and air, are alike pervaded with this wonderful fish.
There is only one place which appears to be kept sacred from its intrusion, and strange to say, that is the dinner table; an observation made on its absence from that apparently appropriate position, excited as much astonishment, as if I had made a remark to a Northumberland squire that he had not a head dish of Newcastle coals.
T'he town is irregular and dirty, built chiefly of wood; the dampness of the climate rendering stone unsuitable. The heavy rains plough the streets into water courses. Thousands of lean dogs stalk about, quarrelling with each other for the offal of the fish, which lies plentifully scattered in all directions. This is their recreation : their business is to draw go-carts. There are also great numbers of cats, which, on account of the hostile relations existing between them and their canine neighbors, generally reside on the tops of the houses. A large fish oil factory in the centre of the town, fills it with most obnoxious odors.
There are many neat and comfortable houses in the vicinity, where the air, though a little foggy, is fresh and healthful. There are two church of England churches, one Wesleyan, and one Roman Catholic chapel. A large Roman Catholic cathedral is also being built. The churches of England and of Rome have each Bishops of Newfoundland.
The population of the island is one hundred thousand; onehalf are Roman Catholics, principally of Irish descent, or emigrants, the remainder of English race, and various creeds.
The trade of St. John's is very considerable ; they export fish and oil, and receive in return nearly all the luxuries and neces. saries of life ; the annual exports and imports average more than a million and a half pounds sterling each in value, and are rapidly increasing. They get port wine direct from Portugal in exchange for their dried fish ; with due deference to our English wine merchants, the best I have ever met.
The seal fisheries employ numbers of active and experienced sailors from this port, in the North Seas; their life is one of almost incredible hardship and danger, and subjects them to great alternations of abundance and distress.