THE

HOME FRIEND;

A WEEKLY MISCELLANY OF AMUSEMENT AND INSTRUCTION.

PUBLISHED EVERY WEDNESDAY,

BY THE SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE.

WEARILY we plodded along under the broiling heat of a midday sun. Our umbrellas were rendered entirely useless, from the circumstance of violent gusts of wind occasionally eddying up from the sea-side, and sweeping by

VOL. III.

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with such destructive force as to threaten not only utterly to annihilate these protectors from heat, but actually to unhorse us if we ventured to hold on to the bent whalebones; we had therefore no resource left us but to shut them up and brave the sun's fierce rays as best we could. The first place we passed was an aqueduct of very great extent, and which had doubtless originally served for the transport of excellent water from the neighbourhood of ancient Paphos into the low lands, where its want is so acutely felt, and where its presence would be an additional incitive to agricultural pursuits. This aqueduct has long since fallen into ruins, and been utterly neglected; but, with a very trifling expense, it could be rebuilt and rendered serviceable, and any other than the present inhabitants would long since have accomplished this feat. For four hours we rode over a pleasant plain, in a very partial state of cultivation, but abounding with wild flowers and game of several descriptions. If it had not been for the excessive heat of the day, and the great glare thrown up from the parbaked earth, we might have enjoyed our ride exceedingly. To our left, varying in distance from a mile and a half to two miles from us, according to the formation of the coast, were the cool-looking blue waters of the Mediterranean; whilst to our right a long defile of mountains presented a very variegated aspect as the shadows of fleeting clouds rested for a while on the golden-tinged leaves of the countless cypress trees, and clothed all around in brown obscurity. The tints and shades over ocean and plain were also beautiful in the extreme; and not the least pleasurable sensation in the glare of that noontide heat was to watch the dark ripple of the coming sea-breeze upon the deep-blue surface of the waters-see how it sported with the ready-spread sails of long-becalmed boats and vessels, which, regardless of the helmsman's care, were drifting slowly to-and-fro as the tide set them-and, best of all, to bare our shirt collars and bosoms to its welcome and balmy breath, as after long-protracted promises it finally swept past us, laden with all the balmy freshness and health of the distant ocean. As the sea-breeze increased, our languid frames gained fresh energies, and, setting spurs to our willing steeds, we cantered merrily over the plain, the wind whistling by us like so many rifle-shot; and by half-past 11 A.M., we arrived at the village of Mazatos, situated on an agreeable declivity at the foot of one of the lesser mountains of a continuous chain that extends from Nicosia to the south-easternmost extremity of the island. Mazatos was but a miserable village, inhabited entirely by Greek peasantry, under the supervision of a duly-appointed kekiah. The inhabitants subsist chiefly upon the produce of their vines, and rear a few silkworms, which supply a small portion of silk annually that is bartered or sold to the Italian and French shipmasters frequenting the port of Larnaca Sessame seed was being planted for the first time, and, as the results proved, answered their most sanguine expectations. The villagers were hospitable and civil, and the trees furnished ample shade to prove a pleasant resting-place for the brief hour that we sojourned here. Fruit was plentiful and good, and so was wine, but we could neither for love nor money procure any milk. Strange to say that, though fish must be abundant in the many inlets and small bays within twenty minutes' walk of Mazatos, and though the natives are oftentimes subjected to rigorous fasts in which, at intervals, fish is permitted as a luxurious indulgence, not one of the natives had in his possession either a fishing-line or a net: vegetables were plentiful, and every house was well stocked with poultry, which they eagerly sold to us at ridiculously cheap prices. The old kekiah

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complained sadly of the heavy taxations levied by the local and of the inadequate means at his disposal to meet them. But though the soil was rich and inviting, and though they had almost certain progovernment, spects of handsome profits accruing, the natives listlessly preferred poverty, their pipes, and the shades of their much-loved cypress-trees, to any golden realities which entailed the necessity of a little labour and fatigue. At about an hour after midday we mounted again, and pursued our course in a S.W. direction; very soon the road diverged towards the west, and we entered upon an extensive and fertile country, to which our Greek guide gave the name of Laconicos, said to have been so called from a race of people of that name that in former ages dwelt in these a rich tract of country utterly desolate! the soil replete with spontaneous vegetation, wild flowers and brambles, and the base of the mountains parts. Here was thickly set with dark cypress-trees; but not a human being or a hut to be met with. Occasionally a frightened jackal yelled forth his astonishment at the sudden and unexpected apparition of men, and then scoured over the plain with lightning speed. partly for protection's sake, though that appeared little needed in so We had brought our guns with us perfect a wilderness, and partly because we had been truthfully informed that there was excellent shooting by the way. tinued high above the horizon we were too much intent upon the best So long as the sun conmeans of securing our aching heads from the fierce heat of his almost vertical rays. Partridges flew up on all sides; hares scampered across our pathway; wild doves and pigeons flew overhead in legions; but still the guns hung listlessly over our backs, and we urged our weary steeds onward, anxious to reach some shady spot or pleasant spring where we might rest a while in the shade, and slake a thirst which had now become almost insupportable. We presently crossed two little streams, situated about an hour's distance apart from each other, and the muddy, nauseous water that these afforded was even rejected by our thirsty animals, though they alleviated our sufferings in a great measure by enabling us to rinse out our parched-up mouths, and moisten the sun-split lips. Two hours after this, and as the sun was sinking low in the west, we sighted the banks of the famed river St. Helena, so called in honour of the mother of the emperor Constantine, who landed at the mouth of this river on her return from the pilgrimage to Jerusalem. Here we bivouacked for the night; tent we had none, neither was there any house to afford us a shelter; but our famous Cyprus capotes were an ample protection from the dew, and the surrounding country afforded brushwood and fuel, with which we heaped up little bonfires all around our encampment, not so much for warmth's sake as to serve as a protection against wild beasts, and that more insidious enemy the viper, with which this part of the country was reported to abound. Be this as it may, fatigue and exercise caused us to sleep as soundly as any prince pillowed on down; and the next morning the bright morning star and the early song of the lark awoke us to the gratifying sensation of having slept soundly and safely throughout the night long. Before starting for Limersole we strayed along the bankside of the river; the dew was yet heavy upon the ground, and the earth in many places so thickly overgrown with brushwood that we could with difficulty disentangle ourselves and our guns from the brambles. Vipers, doubtless, were plentiful, though we met with none, but then our heavy, thick shooting-boots set their venom at defiance. After a while we came upon the haunts of game; the small swamps near the banks swarmed with

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wild waterfowl, and the thicker brushwood was well peopled with partridges, quails and hares. The result of an hour's sport told wonderfully upon our game-bags; and when we mounted and pursued our way towards Limersole, we had the satisfaction of knowing that however inhospitable or poverty-stricken the inhabitants might chance to prove, we were at least independent of them for that day's dinner. The sun rose with a highlyinflamed complexion, and only condescended to shine upon the earth for a few brief minutes, speedily enveloping himself with portentous clouds which were scudding overhead towards the north-east; the sea, too, broke heavily upon the cliffs and shingles of the coast, and the loud echo of the clamorous voice of the waves fell upon the ear ominously. There was evidently a gale brewing in some quarter, and we knew not how soon or from whence it would burst forth in fury; so we hurried along our horses to the utmost stretch of their walking capacities-galloping, cantering, or even trotting was out of the question over a road where every second stone was loose and slippery. As we advanced the day became more gloomy, and the wind freshened apace: setting aside the fear of getting a thorough soaking, there was something so exhilarating and buoyant in the cool atmosphere that we were full of mirth and spirits, and rode on with grateful hearts towards that Great Benefactor who had fixed the changes and the seasons for the comfort and happiness of his creatures. No one knows how to appreciate a gloomy day save those who have resided in hot eastern climes, where the perpetual glare and sunshine dazzles the eye and makes the brow ache, and long again for the cloudy days and showers of the monsoon, or, as in Cyprus, the winter. To us this day had especial charms. Ever and anon, as we reached an elevated point, we paused a few moments to gaze on the grand, the sublime, landscape and sea-view to the left: angrily buffeting with obstinate black rocks, white with foaming rage, high up in the air sprung the scattered surge of the surf; further on still, and the ocean was tossed with restless billows-the blue sea of yesterday was dark and sullen, variegated ever and anon by the white-crested wave which burst in contact with the wind. Far as the eye could reach in the dim horizon all was dark blackness, and it was difficult to define where the sight was bounded as regards the sea, or where the heavy black bank of clouds commenced that girt the horizon round with the lightning's bands of the coming storm. Then in the centre of this vast waste of angry waters, like frightened birds, vessels and boats were scudding before the breeze--every available sail set and spread out like wings to carry them one hour sooner, were it possible, to the wished-for haven; now rising on the crested wave, now falling in the sunken deep hollow; now rolling heavily from side to side, now darting forward with lightning-speed; then checked abruptly by the overpowering volume of some huge wave that scatters its foam high above the topmost masts, and staggering beneath the blow, like a man smitten even unto death. Brave ship! she rights again, and flies onward with a greater speed. Heaven guide her safely to the wished-for port. We look to our right, and the dark mountain tops-dark with the foliage of countless trees, look white in comparison to the heavy black sky beyond and above them, as the trees wave and bend beneath the fierce gusts that outride the gale; their white branches glitter in the air like warriors' lances, and they moan incessantly; the tall grass bends to the sighing breeze; the brambles are denuded of leaves and dried twigs, which are whipt up high into the air and so disappear in a cloud of dust; and midst the universal moaning of nature the distant voice of the thunder is heard

growling discontentedly like a bloodhound held in chains, which yearns to be set free that it may sweep unimpeded on its dreadful way. These notes are notes of warning to us, however, so we speed on again, and after about five hours' ride we reach the river Mithante (or Amathante), whose turbid waters are swollen, and the shadow of the storm hangs heavily upon the foliage that clusters around her banks. Crossing this river we set our horses to their utmost speed, for the road was now better, and a few heavy drops of rain that fell as big as half-crown pieces upon the earth, warned us that there was no time to be lost; and it was just four o'clock by the muezzin's call when we galloped into the village of Limersole, and descended at the aga's house, who was governor of this district. It is well that we arrived when we did, for in about half an hour afterwards a most frightful gale set in, and lasted without a moment's intermission till about two hours after midnight; but of this, more anon. Our gamebag was placed at the aga's disposal, and he forthwith sent it to the ladies of his harem, to be cooked for our evening repast. We found the governor a courteous, well-bred gentleman, a native of Stamboul; he did everything in his power to render us comfortable for the night, and we, being exhausted and hungry, did most ample justice to the good things he set before us. After dinner, coffee and pipes were introduced, and amidst the deafening roar of heaven's artillery and the fury of the wind and rain, we sat down cosily on the governor's divan and made keif. Limersole is a considerable town for Cyprus, and contained nearly three thousand inhabitants, of whom at least two thousand were Turks. Olives, mulberries, and figs were abundant, and the inhabitants had with some success introduced the sessame seed. Of course grape-vines were numerous. Silk and olive oil, however, and a small quantity of cotton, constituted the staple commodities of commerce. The women, both Turkish and Greek, went about with their faces uncovered, and conversed freely with us; and the governor's daughter, a fine strapping girl of fifteen, who at that age in other parts of Turkey would have been closely confined within the precincts of the harem, sat down by our side and entered freely into conversation in the presence of her father and other Moslem guests. The governor and his daughter were highly delighted with some paintings we showed them of those parts of the island which we had already visited, and which they instantly recognised. This intelligent man informed us, that in the vicinity of Paphos there still existed ruins of what had once been sugar-factories, an evident proof that the cane had once been cultivated to some extent on the island, and a surety of its success were it to be introduced there again. He argued that from calculations he haa made of the available land in the immediate vicinity of Limersole, which from its moistness was best adapted to the growth of the sugar-cane, he could with facility plant from eighty to a hundred thousand canes, and for the matter of that, the water in the neighbourhood was so plentiful and so easily supplied, that the whole country might be advantageously laid out as sugar land-urd el sucre, to use his own words. His tenure was too uncertain and his means inadequate, or else he himself would have set an example well worthy of imitation. There is one great advantage, and that is, that at the proper season a few boat-loads of canes fit for planting out might be brought over from the Antioch district, in from twenty-four to thirty hours. At Limersole, as elsewhere in Cyprus, vegetables, fruit, and poultry were abundant and cheap; but it possesses a decided superiority over Larnacca with regard to climate: of this the appearance of