verbenas, and their cuttings require to be wintered in a light, airy window, and kept perfectly free from damp-next to frost their deadliest winter nemy.

The bloom of many plants may be prolonged to very late in the season, by giving timely shelter from the first autumnal frosts. Geraniums, dahlias, helitropes, chrysanthemums, &c., may be sheltered by mats during frosty nights; and as it frequently occurs that after the first few frosty nights we have no more for a month or two, so by sheltering these plants from the first frost, we can preserve them in bloom for a considerable time longer.

Walks may now be made, and edgings laid down (see vol. ii. p. 54). The dwarf Dutch box (Buxus sempervirens var.) affords the neatest edging, and if annually clipped lasts in good order for many years. The Thrift forms a very pretty edging, but it has to be renewed every few years. The Double Daisy, Stemless Gentian (Gentiana acaulis), London Pride, and Saxifraga hypnoides-all these make beautiful edgings. Other plants suitable for edgings, but not so commonly used for that purpose, are the Pansey, Dwarf Bellflower (campanula pumila), Cowlip, Polyanthus, Auricula, Hepatica, veronica fruticulosa, Culluna vulgaris flore plesso, and Erica carnea. Neat edgings may also be formed by narrow stripes, or as they are termed, verges of grass turf. Take care of such flowers as still retain their beauty, pick off all dead buds and leaves, and draw earth up to their stems. Keep the walks clear of weeds, and remove all decayed stems, leaves, flowers, flower-stakes, and litter of any kind out of the garden; so that a sober neatness may succeed the summer's gaiety.

Evergreen shrubs.-Now is about the best season of the year for transplanting evergreen shrubs. Have them taken up with as large a ball of earth adhering to their roots as possible. Dig the hole to receive the shrub larger than the size of the ball, but not so deep as to place the roots of the shrub lower in the soil than they were before. Loosen the earth at the bottom of the hole, and pour in water to form a puddle; put in the shrub, carefully spreading and laying out flat any straggling roots or root fibres. Then throw in a few inches in depth of earth over the roots, and pour in more water to settle the earth about them, proceeding so until the hole be filled. The shrub may then be tied to stakes, to keep it steady in high winds; and a layer of litter placed round the stem, as far as the roots diverge, will ensure success to the operation. Cuttings of Laurels, Phillyreas, Jasmine, Aucuba, Holly, Box, Honeysuckle, and other evergreen and deciduous shrubs may now be taken and planted. Choose strong shoots of last summer's growth, from nine to eighteen inches in length; strip off all the lower leaves, leaving but a few at the top, and plant the cuttings half their length deep in the soil of a shady border, pressing the earth with your foot firmly about them. They will soon root, and be fit for transplanting in about the end of twelve months.

3:

WINDOW GARDENING. - All tender plants, young cuttings, &c., that must be kept in a grow ing state during the winter, should be placed inside the window immediately, (September 15th), as an hour's frost would be fatal, and the weather at this time of the year is very uncertain.

The Camellia Japonica, though introduced into this country from China, is, as the name implies, a native of Japan, and of the same genus as the Camellias, bohea and viridis, which supply the well known black and green teas of commerce. It is truly a superb plant, combining the rich blossoms of the rose with the glossy foliage of the evergreen; and though sufficiently hardy to live and produce a few insignificant weather-beaten flowers out of doors in this climate, yet from some peculiarities in its constitution, and in the forma tion of its flower-buds, the camellia requires great care and attention before it deigns to expand its gorgeous petals even in a window. The principal difficulty is that the flower-buds, when formed, are exceedingly liable to drop off from the plant previous to their expansion. This unfortunate habit, when it occurs, is attributed to a too great or a too small supply of water, and also to a too great variation of temperature, particularly when the buds are swelling. To flower the camellia in perfection, a higher temperature than that of a green-house is requisite, during what is termed the growing season. Still, with care, it can be flowered beautifully in a window, without any artificial heat whatever, more than the average temperature of a sitting-room. The routine of window cultivation commences when the plant has done flowering, at which time, if it is a young small sized plant, it should be shifted into a pot of a size larger, but if an old large plant, it need not be repotted oftener than once in two years. The soil should be composed of equal parts of peat and loam, and as peat cannot be procured in every locality, I may observe that the next best soil is light, sandy loam, enriched with a small quantity of leaf mould. After potting, the plant should be placed in the window of a rather close warm room, where a fire is kept; and there it is to remain as long as it continues growing, and until the flower-buds for the ensuing season are perfectly developed. During this time, when the plant is growing and the flower-buds forming water should be rather liberally supplied; the leaves and branches should also be frequently sprinkled with water; and the dust which, even in the tidiest room, will adhere to the leaves, carefully washed off with a sponge. The plant should have as much light as possible, but extreme care should be taken, in all stages of the camellia's growth, never to let the sun's rays shine directly upon it. When the plant has ceased growing, it should then be put out of doors in a shaded situa tion, where, at most, it will be exposed to the early morning's sun only, and where it will be sheltered from cold winds. kept till about this season of the year, or rather earlier - for it must on no account have the slightest acquaintance with frost-when it should again be placed in the window. The plant, if in good health, and if the preceding directions have been adhered to, will be well furnished with flower buds; and now is the critical season, when all care is required to prevent these buds from falling off, before they expand into beauteous flowers. Water must be carefully applied, the soil in the pot must never be permitted to become dry, nor yet should it be always soaking wet. Observe that at this time, either one hour's drought, or the soil in the pots becoming soddened, will equally bring down the buds, thereby destroying your hopes, and re dering nugatory all your previous care. The tem

There it is to be

perature of the room should not be higher than fifty nor lower than thirty-five degrees. A medium temperature between the two suits the camellia best at this stage of its culture. The room should not be too close; neither should the plant stand in a draught. If it is inconvenient to open the window, and the outdoor temperature not less than forty degrees, the plant may be placed outside for a couple of hours in the middle of the day; but be extremely careful that it be not where the sun can shine upon it. As the buds swell for flowering, a little more water may be given; do not give water little and often, but give a good dose at once, and then wait until the plant requires it again; with a well-drained pot no injury, but much benefit, will accrue from this mode of watering the camellia. Never let a drop of water remain in the saucer beneath the pot. After your camellia has flowered-as, gentle reader, I sincerely hope it will-the same routine of culture must be gone through.

There are a great many varieties of the camellia, and its popularity is almost universal; the Italians, Germans, and Americans, vieing with John Bull in the production of new and beautiful varieties. To the window gardener, who has only room for one or two plants, I would recommend the double white, and double red kinds. The camellia is propagated by seeds, cuttings, grafting, and inarching: but as these processes are difficult, and can only be properly performed by practical gardeners, I consider that I need not further allude to the n

VEGETABLES.-Carrots and Beet should now be stored away for winter use. The best mode of keeping these roots is to place them in alternate layers of dry sand, either in a corner of a dry cellar, or in barrels or boxes. A layer of sand an inch thick should be first laid down, and upon it a layer of the roots, then another inch in depth of sand between each alternate layer of roots, until

apart, they will soon increase into patches. When gathering the leaves for use, cut close to the ground, others will soon shoot up in their places. After the bed has lasted three or four years, it should be renewed by separating the roots, and planting them in a fresh place.

The fallen tree leaves, wherever practicable, should be carefully collected. As leaf-mould should form a part of the soil of almost all potted plants, it is peculiarly valuable to the window gardener. The leaves, when collected for this purpose, should be laid in a flat heap exposed to the rain, and turned frequently to expedite their decomposition. When thoroughly rotted, so as to crumble into powder when rubbed between the thumb and finger, the leaf mould is fit for use. Leaves are also used for supplying, by their fermentation, artificial heat in hotbeds. For this purpose the leaves should be made up in a ridge-shaped pile, to keep them from getting too wet, turned over and well mixed every three weeks. If quite dry, a little water should be thrown on the heap as it is turned over, and fresh gathered leaves added and mixed with the others. In spring the leaves will be in condition to make a hotbed of moderate, but lasting heat. Leaves also may be gathered in a heap, house slops thrown on them, road-scrapings added if procurable, and in spring dug into the ground as manure. All vacant ground should now be trenched, and thrown up into ridges, to receive the ameliorating effects of the winter's frost. W. P.

THE HOUSEWIFE'S FRIEND.

LAYING OUT TABLES.

covered with about four inches of sand. Some cut off the extreme top or bud at the thick end of the carrot, to prevent it from growing; but I have never found this precaution necessary. Though rather out of place here, I may observe that if the top of a carrot cut off at this season, or later, is placed in a shallow vessel with water, it will grow, forming a radiated feathery tuft of very handsome appearance, and by no means unworthy of being placed on any drawing-room mantel-piece, as a beautiful and interesting ornament.

Parsnips may be stored in the same manner as carrots, but as the former not only can endure, but even, are improved by the hardest frost, they need not be taken up, except a few for use at any time that the ground may be frozen too hard. Onions keep best when made up into ropes, and the ropes kept in a cool dry place.

The Chive (Allium schoenoprasum), commonly termed by the plural-chives, or lyze, from a quantity being taken for use at one time, is, though a native plant, seldom seen in English gardens, but well known and common in Scotland, where it is much used for seasoning broths, soups, omelets, salads, and other culinary preparations. As if has a mild and agreeable flavour, and takes up very little room, no garden should be without it. It is propagated by slips, or by dividing the roots in spring or autumn. Any one who can procure a few roots now should plant them about six inches

BREAKFASTS.-The table should be covered with a clean white cloth; the cups and saucers. arranged at one end, if for tea; and at both ends, if for tea and coffee; or the coffee cups and saucers may be arranged at the right-hand side of

one end of the table, and the tea-cups and saucers at the left: the tea-pot and coffee-pot occupying the space between in front, and the urn that at the back. Some persons substitute cocoa or chocolate for coffee, in which case they are to be placed the same. The slop bason and milk-jus should be placed to the left; and the cream,

and hot milk-jugs, with the sugar bason, to the right.

The remainder of the table should be occupied in the centre by the various dishes to be partaken of; while at the sides must be ranged a large plate for meat, eggs, &c., and a small one for toast, rolls, &c., with a small knife and fork for each person; the carving knife and fork being placed point to handle; the butter and bread knives to the right of their respective dishes, which occupy the centre part, and spoons in front of the hot dishes with gravy. Salt cellars should occupy the four corners, and, if required, the cruets should be placed in the centre of the table.

Dry toast should never be prepared longer than five minutes before serving, as it becomes tough, and the buttered, soppy and greasy, if too long prepared. Hot rolls should be brought to table covered with a napkin.

Every dish should be garnished appropriately, either with sippets, ornamental butter, watereresses, parsley, or some one of the garnishes we shall point out in a future Number.

The dishes usually set upon the table are selected from hot, cold, and cured meats; hot, cold, cured, and potted fish; game; poultry, cold or devilled; fruit, ripe, preserved, or candied; dressed and undressed vegetables; meat pies and patties, cold; eggs; honey-comb; entrées; and savoury morsels-as grilled kidneys, ham-toast, devils, &c. Déjeuners à la fourchette are laid the same as suppers, except that tea and coffee are introduced; but in sporting circles not until the solids are removed.

When laid for a marriage or christening breakfast, a bride's or christening cake should occupy the centre instead of the épergne or plateau.

LUNCHEONS, OR NOONINGS.-The luncheon is laid in two ways; one way is to bring in a butler's tray with let down sides, pn which it is previously arranged upon a tray cloth, and letting down the sides and spreading the cloth upon the dining table to distribute the things as required. The other is to lay the cloth as for dinner, with the pickle-stand and cruets opposite each other; and, if in season, a small vase of flowers in the centre; if not, a water-jug and tumblers, which may be placed on a side-table at other times. The sides of the table are occupied by the requisites for each guest, viz., two plates, a large and small fork and knives, and dessert-spoon. A folded napkin, and the bread under, is placed upon the plate of each guest.

Carafes, with the tumblers belonging to and placed over them, are laid at the four corners, with the salt cellars in front of them, between two table-spoons laid bowl to handle.

If French or light wines are served, they may be placed in the original bottles in ornamental wine vases, between the top and bottom dishes and the vase of flowers, with the corks drawn and partially replaced.

The dishes generally served for luncheons are the remains of cold meat neatly trimmed and garnished; cold game hashed or plain; hashes of all descriptions; curries; minced meats; cold pies, savoury, fruit, or plain; plainly cooked cutlets, steaks, and chops; omelettes; bacon; eggs; devils and grilled bones; potatoes; sweetmeats; butter; cheese; salad and pickles. In fact, almost anything does for lunch, whether of fish, flesh, fowl, pastry, vegetables, or fruit.

Ale and porter are generally served, but occa sionally sherry, marsalla, port, or home-made wines, are introduced, with biscuits and ripe fruit. A good housewife should always have something in the house ready to convert into a neat little luncheon, in case a few friends drop in, to what some are pleased to call a "tiffin" and it is astonishing how a really handsome looking affair may be made out of the remains of the dinner served the day before, some handsome glass, a sprinkle of good plate, a few flowers, some good ale, or a little wine, and above all, a hearty wel

come.

NAPKINS.-Dinner napkins should be about twenty-eight inches broad, and thirty inches long. They may be folded in a variety of ways, which impart a style to a table, without adding much to the expense, and may be readily accomplished with a little practice and attention to the following directions and diagrams.

1.—THE MITRE.—(Fig. 1.)

Fold the napkin into three parts longways, then turn down the right-hand corner, and turn up the left-hand one, as in Fig. 2, A and B. Turn back the point A towards the right, so that it shall lie behind C; and B to the left, so as to be behind D. Double the napkin back at the line E, then turn up F from before and G from behind, when they will appear as in Fig. 3. Bend the corner H towards the right, and tuck it behind I, and turn back the corner K towards the left, at the dotted line, and tuck it into a corresponding part at the back. The bread is placed under the mitre, or in the centre at the top.

2. THE EXQUISITE.—(Fig. 4.) Fold the napkin into three parts longways, then fold down two-fifths of the length from each side, back, repeat on the other side, then turn up the as in Fig. 5, at A; roll up the part B towards the corner towards the corner A, and it will appear as D. The centre part E is now to be turned up at the bottom, and down at the top, and the two rolls brought under the centre piece as in Fig. 4. The bread is placed under the centre band, K, Fig. 4.

3. THE COLLEGIAN.-(Fig. 6.) Fold the napkin into three parts longways, then turn down the two sides towards you, so that they shall appear as in Fig. 7; then roll up the part A underneath until it looks like B, Fig. 8. Now take the corner B and turn it up towards C, so that the edge of the rolled part shall be even with the central line; repeat the same on the other side, and turn the whole over, when it will ap pear as in Fig. 6. The bread is placed underneath the part K.

4. THE CINDERELLA.—(Fig. 9.) Fold the napkin into three parts longways, then turn down the two sides as in Fig. 7; turn the napkin over, and roll up the lower part as in Fig. 10, A, B. Now turn the corner B upwards towards C, so that it shall appear as in D; repeat on the other side, and then bring the two parts E together so that they shall bend at the dotted line; and the appearance will now be as Fig. 9. The bread is placed under the apron part, K, Fig. 9.