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So more than of the English? "Because," he replied, "the French would take our country, if they could, as they have done in Spain, and as they did with Egypt. But," added he, "they would not find us Egyptians; we are men of Barbary."

I must confess I was astonished to find this hatred of the French very common among so ignorant a people. Their partiality to the English (if they deign to shew a partiality for any Christian) may be accounted for by the vicinity of Gibraltar, where many of their countrymen are established and protected, and which is supplied with a great part of its provisions from the Barbary coast. But the hatred against Spaniards is still greater than against Frenchmen. They ever keep in remembrance that their forefathers, and the companions of their forefathers, were formerly masters of all the opposite and fertile shores of the Mediterranean; and that even after submission, and the most solemn compacts with their Spanish conquerors, they were driven from their homes and their native land. The circumstances attending that expulsion may be forgotten; but the hatred excited by it, and by the wars afterwards carried on, still exists in all its force. We were repeatedly stopped in the streets by an exclamation addressed to us, and which our interpreter explained to be the Englishman is very good, but the Spaniard stinks." At other times, however, we were subjected to those insults which every man in the European dress must be prepared occasionally to encounter among Mahometans. The names of infidel and dog be

came familiar to our ears. Some of the lowest classes at times held up their hands in a threatening manner, as if to strike us as we passed, and that without the slightest provocation: the boys especially took great delight in follow. ing and insulting the Christians: they called us by every opprobrious epithet, and not content with that, often, at the city-gates, saluted us with a volley of stones, which we could neither avoid nor punish. There is much more of this barbarism here, than at Smyrna or Constantinople..

But the insults to which Christians are exposed, are nothing, when compared with those which the Jew must hourly suffer. As Christians we entered the gates on horseback, when returning from our ride, accompanied by a soldier This sometimes created murmurs; but our Jewish companion was always obliged to dismount, and enter on foot, nor was he allowed even to ride through the streets. In passing a mosque, be the path ever so muddy, the Jew must take off his slippers; scarcely dare he to look upon the pure house of pray. er. At any time a Moor of the lowest cast may enter the house of a Jew, and commit a thousand insolences, which the other has not the power even to resent. It is on this account that the Jews reside in a separate quarter. A Maho. metan keeps the gates, and by making suitable presents to him, the miserable children of Abraham live in tolerable security. But their hatred against their tyrants cannot be described: it is mixed with all that is base; with fear, with rancour, with cunning. A Jew takes off his cap to a Moor, 3 C 3

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and curses him in his heart. He is pleased when they go to war, because they destroy each other. Our interpreter used to take a ma. licious pleasure in witnessing the Moors receive the bastinado, and in talking of it afterwards. When all human patience and resources fail, they have recourse to their religion: "We are obliged," said a Jew to me, to submit in this world to every species of indignity, but in the next we shall shine forth the chosen people of the Most High. Here we ride upon asses, and are insulted by the Moors; there we shall ride upon horses, with crowns of gold on our heads; the Moors shall hold our stirrups, and run by our sides, whilst we kick them, strike them, and spit in the rascals' faces."-So saying, he spat upon the ground with great violence.

The dress of the better sort of Moors consists of a linen shirt without a collar, and with long and wide sleeves; next a caftan or vest of cloth, which reaches to the calf of the leg, and is girt round the iniddle by a sash of party-coloured silk, or of fine cotton; a pair of loose trowsers scarcely reaching below the knee; and lastly, a kind of wrapper of light woollen stuff, which is thrown round them in folds; the legs are bare, and on the feet they wear yellow slippers: a red peaked cap for the head completes the dress. Only the higher ranks wear turbans, gene rally those who have performed the pilgrimage to Mecca. Mus. tachios or beards are universally worn. In rainy weather they carry a kind of watch-coat of thick cloth, with a sharp-peaked cowl to cover the head; this, with a

shirt and a pair of slippers, often forms the sole dress of the lower classes, who may be seen sitting in rows in the sun or the shade, mo, dels of dirt and indolence.

The women have all an appearance of wretchedness in their ex ternal covering, which consists, like that of the men, of a wrapper of light woollen, enveloping them from head to feet. Every part of the head and face is covered except the eyes. The better sort wrap linen round their legs, but by far the greater part of those we saw in the streets, were bare-legged; all wore yellow slippers. But notwithstanding this miserable ap pearance, we were informed by the Jewish women that it was merely external. When they en ter a house where they are paying a visit, and where no men are present, they throw aside their wrap. pers, and display great richness in their dress beneath; caftans of silk, or the finest cotton, broad sashes of silk, ornamented with gold and silver, their hair adorned and perfumed, and bracelets set with pearls, on their arms.

They

The Jewish women, on the con. trary, go with their faces unveiled; and among them may be seen some of extraordinary beauty. are fond of party-coloured robes, of silken sashes, of large rings, and broad bracelets. They uni versally stain their nails of a yel low colour, and wear the hair formed into two long plaits, one hanging from each side of the head, and adorned with ribbons. The common language both of men and women is a very bad Spanish, Such also I found to be the lan. guage of the Jews at Smyrna and Constantinople; a clear proof of

the amazing number of that people that must have been formerly driven out of Spain, and scattered all over the coasts of the Mediter

ranean.

Moorish Encampment, or Vil lage. [From the same.]

The ground on the western side of the heights, or towards Tangiers, we found far less interesting than that near Tetuan. No sooner did we begin to descend than the dif. ference became perceptible. The country was stretched out into plains or slopes of comparatively small fertility, and the hills were rounded and bare, not broken into clefts with sharp peaks. We were informed that we should that night pitch our tent near a small village, and we felt not a little curious to see one in this country. To. wards sun-set we arrived on the slope of a hill, at ten or twelve low tents, formed of a coarse dark stuff of woollen and horse or camel hair stretched upon sticks, and in some instances stopped round at the sides with bushes and clods of earth. We were not a little sur prized to hear this called a village; but as one of our party, who had been before unwell, was totally unable to proceed farther, we had no alternative but to pitch our tents, and prepare for passing the night as comfortably as we could. Our guide inquired for the head man of the place, when a stout and well-made Moor presented himself, and graciously gave us permission to encamp near them. In a short time our tent was pitched, and a sufficient quantity of dry sticks collected to make a fire at the door

of it. Our kettle was soon prepared, and the Moors, for a trilling sum, supplied us with abundance of milk, butter, and eggs, which, with our bread and other provi. sion, enabled us to make a cheerful repast. Mats were spread upon the ground, our saddles formed our pillows, and our clokes were our covering. Our horses were pick. eted near us. As the night ad. vanced, the Moors assembled and squatted round the fire, which they were careful to keep up, at the entrance of our tent. They were in general very stout men, of a serious but not a melancholy cast of countenance, their complexion a dark olive, and their sole dress a wrapper of light woollen, folded round them. If we attempted to stir out of the tent they strictly watched us, lest we should stray near any of their huts; whilst we in return, from beneath our clokes, watched the bright gleaming of the expiring embers thrown on their dusky forms. Before midnight they dispersed, our guard stretched himself across the entrance of the tent, and we slept in safety.

In the morning, while the baggage was getting placed on the mules, we had time to examine the encampment. We ventured to look into the huts, but were prohibited from entering. The entrances were all fronting to the east; and it was evident by a glance at the interior, that the first advantages of the division of labour were not yet understood in this simple state of society. In every hut or tent the occupations were the same, the women or female children solely were employed; one spinning a coarse kind of thread, another grinding corn be. 3 C4

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tween two flat stones, whilst the children made the butter by swinging back wards and forwards a skin full of milk, which hung from the top of the tent. The manners of these wandering Moors are simple and rude like their wants. They seldom cat meat, or even fowls or eggs; these they carry to the towns for sale. Their principal and favourite dish (called kouscousou) is made of millet and butter-milk, into which if a fowl and eggs boiled hard are introduced, it is reckon ed the greatest of all delicacies. There are evidently two distinct races of men among these mountaineers, immediately distinguishable by the difference of their features; and I regretted not to be able to trace these distinctions farther, or to discover whence they probably arose. One has the face long, perfectly oval, the nose regular and slightly aquiline, the lips delicate, and the complexion a light olive. The men of the other race are of a far stouter make, a broader forehead, a nose shorter and more square, with thicker lips, and a darker complexion.

Before our departure, the chief of the place made a secret requestto our interpreter for a glass of brandy. Unlike the simple shepherds of the preceding day, he swallowed it with infinite delight in the sight of heaven and his prophet. In return he brought before us a celebrated snake-catcher, who had just come down from the mountains. carried with him a long narrow basket, containing several tolerably large serpents, which he handled with great indifference. They appeared, however, evidently stu. pified, either by art, or by long confinement and frequent hand.

He

ling; and Doctor Darwin was go. ing to touch them, when the man hastily returned them into the basket, pretending great alarm on his account. He affirmed that not even a true believer could touch them without being stung. Had the Christian, therefore, been suf. fered to expose the fallacy of this assertion, the injury to his cha. racter might have been still greater. The gaping Moors, however, ap plauded both his superior skill and his humanity, and the delusion was still farther strengthened.

At length we proceeded. In our route we passed several small villages, or encampments, similar to that where we had spent the night, Here, as in Spain, the stork is protected, and is in some degree social with man. These birds seemed to know that we were strangers, but they scarcely moved at the approach of a Moor. They build their nests on the tops of huts, or in trees near human dwel. lings, and are regarded with a kind of superstitious affection. One of our party made a motion as if to shoot one which stood near the road, but our guard prohibited it. "Not even Christians," said he, "molest that bird.”

Customs and general Occupations of the Inhabitants of the Pa. ramaribo. [From the Narrative of Baron Albert Von Sack, Chamberlain to his Prussian Majesty.]

A wealthy inhabitant of Parama. ribo generally employs his time in the following manner: He rises at six o'clock, and, to enjoy the pleasantness of the morning, takes

his breakfast under his piazza, at which he is attended by a number of female negroes, and a boy who presents him with a segar-pipe; during this time he orders the do. mestic concerns for the day; then, putting on a light dress, he takes a walk by the side of the river, to see if there are any new vessels arrived. and to.converse with their captains. About eight o'clock he returns home, and till ten employs himself in business, then takes a second breakfast, which consists of more solid articles than the first, and would be considered in Europe as a tolerably good dinner; after this he occasionally returns to business till about two o'clock, when he goes to a club, of which there are two principal ones; here he learns the news of the day, takes some refreshment, or cordials, and returns home at three to dinner, which is often in the society of his friends. Some have the same custom here as prevails in the south of Europe, of indulging themselves with a nap in the after. noon, but others rather prefer a walk. About six o'clock, after taking his tea, if he is not engaged in any other company, he again visits the club to play at cards or billiards, and about ten he returns home to his supper, and then to rest. Several gentlemen who have a taste for music, hold a concert al most every week, to which they invite company. There is likewise a theatre here, and gentlemen, for their amusement, have given us several representations; amongst them were some very excellent performers.

Besides the balls given by the governor and general in honour of some particular days, there are

also subscription-balls, where the colour of the dresses cannot afford more variety than the different complexions of the company.

The inhabitants who are bora here of European parents, or the creoles, shew, in their infancy, an early display of extraordinary talents; but they are like the fertile soil of the tropics, which, if not well cultivated, will soon be overspread with weeds. Some, who have the good fortune to obtain" proper instructions, prove that they are capable of being brought up to any line of business. They possess a strong memory for learn. ing languages, and they are all distinguished by the excellence of their hand-writing; fencing they learn well, as also the use of other arms, and they shew a great deal of address in all bodily exercies. The people of colour born in this colony possess much the same ta. lents as those born of European parents, and are well made. The women are remarkable for their fine figure, beautiful eyes, and fine teeth; but their dark complexion admits not the rosy colour of the cheeks: the hair is crisped; but the mestizos, who are born of an European father and a mulatto woman, are a degree more remote from the negro; and these persons are often so fair as to be hardly distinguishable from the Europeans. The quaderoons are still a degree nearer the Europeans, all the distinctions between them are no longer perceptible, and the laws themselves give them the same rights as Europeans, They possess a great deal of vivacity in their tem. per, much natural wit, and, it is said, they are very constant in their affection. A curious custom prevails

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