Abbildungen der Seite

so more than of the English ? came familiar to our ears. Some 6Because," he replied, “ the of the lowest classes at times held French would take our country, up their hands in a threatening if they could, as they have done in manner, as if to strike us as we Spain, and as they did with Egypt. passed, and that without the slight. But,” added he, “they would est provocation : the boys espenot find us Egyptians; we are men cially took great delight in follow. of Barbary."

ing and insulting the Christians: I must confess I was astonished they called us by every opprobrious to find this hatred of the French epithet, and not content with that, very common among so ignorant often, at the city-gates, saluted us a people. Their partiality to the with a volley of stones, which we English (if they deign to shew a could neither avoid nor punish. partiality for any Christian) may There is much more of this barba. be accounted for by the vicinity of rism here, than at Smyrna or Con. Gibraltar, where many of their stantinople. . countrymen are established and But the insults to which Christians protected, and which is supplied are exposed, are nothing, when with a great part of its provisions compared with those which the from the Barbary coast. But the Jew must hourly suffer. As Chris. hatred against Spaniards is still tians we entered the gates on greater than against Frenchmen. horseback, when returning from They ever keep in remembrance our ride, accompanied by a soldier that their forefathers, and the com. This sometimes created murmurs; panions of their forefathers, were but our Jewish companion was alformerly masters of all the oppo. ways obliged to dismount, and en. site and fertile shores of the Medi. ter on foot, nor was he allowed terranean; and that even after even to ride through the streets. In submission, and the most solemn passing a mosque, be the path ever compacts with their Spanish con. so muddy, the Jew must take off querors, they were driven from his slippers ; scarcely dare he to their homes and their native land. look upon the pure house of pray. The circumstances attending that er. At any time a Moor of the expulsion may be forgotten; but lowest cast may enter the house of the hatred excited by it, and by the a Jew, and commit a thousand in. wars afterwards carried oo, still solences, which the other has not exists in all its force. We were the power even to resent. It is on repeatedly stopped in the streets this account that the Jews reside by an exclamation addressed to us, in a separate quarter. A Maho. and which our interpreter explain. metan keeps the gates, and by ed to be “ the Englishman is very making suitable presents to him, good, but the Spaniard stinks,” the miserable children of AbraAt other times, however, we were ham live in tolerable security. But subjected to those insults which their hatred against their tyrants every man in the European dress cannot be described : it is mixed must be prepared occasionally to with all that is base; with fear, encounter among Mahometans with rancour, with cunning. A The names of infidel and dog be. Jew takes off his cap to a Moor,

and and curses him in his heart. He' shirt and a pair of slippers, ofter is pleased when they go to war, be- 'forms the sole dress of the lowa cause they destroy each other classes, who may be seen sitting in Our interpreter used to take a ma rows in the sun or the shade, mom licious pleasure in witnessing the dels of dirt and indolebce. Moors receive the bastinado, and The women hare all an appearin talking of it afterwards. When ance of wretchedness in their ex. all human patience and resources ternal covering, which consists, fail, they have recourse to their like that of the men, of a wrapper religion : " We are obliged,” said of light woollen, enveloping ther a Jew to me, to submit in this from head to feet. Every part of world to every species of indignity, the head and face is covered excepi but in the next we shall shine forth the eyes. The better sort vran the chosen people of the Most linen round thcir legs, but by far High. Here we ride upon asses, the greater part of those we sas and are insulted by the Moors; in the streets, were bare-legged: there we shall ride upon horses, all wore yellow slippers. Bet with crowns of gold on our heads; notwithstanding this miserable apa

3 C 3


the Moors shall hold our stirrups, pearance, we were informed by , and run by our sides, whilst we the Jewish women that it was kick them, strike them, and spit merely external. When they end in the rascals' faces.”-So saying, ter a house where they are paying he spat upon the ground with great a visit, and where no men are previolence.

sent, they throw aside their wrapThe dress of the better sort of pers, and display great richness in Moors consists of a linen shirt their dress beneath ; caftans of without a collar, and with long silk, or the finest cotton, broad and wide sleeves; next a caftan or sashes of silk, ornamented with vest of cloth, which reaches to the gold and silver, their hair adoraed calf of the leg, and is girt round the and perfumed, and bracelets set iniddle by a sash of party-coloured with pearls, on their arms. silk, or of fine cotton ; a pair of The Jewish women, on the con. loose trowsers scarcely reaching trary, go with their faces unveiled ; below the knee; and lastly, a kind and among them may be seen some of wrapper of light woollen stuff, of extraordinary beanty. They which is thrown round them in are fond of party-coloured robes, folds; the legs are bare, and on of silken sashes, of large rings, the feet they wear yellow slippers : and broad bracelets. They uni. a red peaked cap for the head versally stain their nails of a yel. completes the dress. Only the low colour, and wear the hair higher ranks wear turbans, gene formed into two long plaits, one rally those who have performed hanging from each side of the head, the pilgrimage to Mecca. Mus. and adorned with ribbons. The tachios or bcards are universally common language both of men and worn. In rainy weather they women is a very bad Spanish, carry a kind of watch.coat of thick Such also I found to be the lan. cloth, with a sharp-peaked cowl guage of the Jews at Smyrna and to cover the head; this, with a Constantinople; a clear proof of


the amazing number of that peo. of it. Our kettle was soon preple that must have been formerly pared, and the Moors, for a trifting driven out of Spain, and scattered sum, supplied us with abundance all over the coasts of the Mediter. of milk, butter, and eggs, which, ranean.

with our bread and other provi. sion, 'enabled us to make a cheerful

repast. Mats were spread upon Moorish Encamoment, or Vil. the ground, our saddles formed our lage. [From the same.]

pillows, and our clokes were our

covering. Our horses were pick. The ground on the western side eted near us. As the night ad. of the heights, or towards Tangiers, vanced, the Moors assembled and we found far less interesting than squatted round the fire, which they that near Tetuan. No sooner did were careful to keep up, at the we begin to descend than the dis, entrance of our tcnt. They were ference became perceptible. The in generad very stout men, of a secountry was stretched out into rious but not a melancholy cast of plains or slopes of comparatively countenance, their complexion 4 small fertility, and the hills were dark olive, and their sole dress a rounded and bare, not broken into wrapper of light woollen, folded clefts with sharp peaks. We were round them. If we attempted to informed that we should that night stir out of the tent they strictly pitch our tent near a small vil. watched us, lest we should stray lage, and we felt not a littlecurious near any of their huts; whilst we to see one in this country. To. in return, from beneath our clokes, wards sun set we arrived on the watched the bright gleaming of the slope of a hill, at ten or twelve expiring embers thrown on their low tents, formed of a coarse dark dusky forms. Before midnight stuff of woollen and horse or camel they dispersed, our guard stretched hair stretched upon sticks, and in himself across the entrance of the some instances stopped round at tent, and we slept in safety. the sides with bushes and clods of lo the morning, while the bagearth. We were not a little sur gage was getting placed on the prized to hear this called a vil. mules, we had time to examine the lage; but as one of our party, who encampinent. We ventured to had been before unwell, was to look into the huts, but were pro. tally unable to proceed farther, we hibited from entering. The en. had no alternative but to pitch our trances were all fronting to the tents, and prepare for passing the east; and it was evident by a night as comfortably as we could. glance at the interior, that the first Our guide inquired for the head advantages of the division of labour man of the place, when a stout and were not yet understood in this well-made Moor presented himself, simple state of society. In cvery and graciously gave us permission hut or tent the occupations were to encamp near them. In a short the same, the women or female time our tent was pitched, and a children solely were employed; sufficient quantity of dry sticks one spinning a coarse kind of collected to make a fire at the door thread, another grinding corn be.

3 C4


tween two fat stones, whilst the ling; and Doctor Darwio was go. children made the butter by swing. ing to touch them, when the man ing bact wards and forwards a skin hastily returned them into the full of milk, which hung from the basket, pretending great alarm on top of the tent The manners of his account. He affirmed that pot these wandering Moors are simple even a true believer could touch and rude like their wants. They them without being stung. Had seldom cat meat, or even fowls or the Christian, therefore, been soi. eggs; these they carry to the towns fered to expose the fallacy of this for sale. Their priucipal and fa. assertion, the injury to his cha. vourite dish (called kouscousou) is racter might have been still greater. made of millet and buttermilk, The gaping Moors, however, apinto which if a fowl and eggs boiled plauded both his superior skill and hard are introduced, it is reckon. his humanity, and the delasion was ed the greatest of all delicacies. still farther strengthened. There are evidently two distinct At length we proceeded. In races of men among these moun. our route we passed several small taineers, immediately distinguish. villages, or encampments, similar able by the difference of their fea. to that where we had spent the tures; and I regretted not to be vight, Here, as in Spain, the able to trace these distinctions stork is protected, and is in sone farther, or to discover whence they degree social with man. These probably arose. One has the face birds seemed to know that we were long, perfectly oval, the nose re. strangers, but they scarcely moved gular and slightly aquiline, the at the approach of a Moor. Tey lips delicate, and the compiexion a build their nests on the tops of light olive. The men of the other huts, or in trees near human dwel. race are of a far stouter make, a lings, and are regarded with a kind broader forehead, a nose shorter of superstitious affection. One of and more square, with thicker lips, our party made a motion as if to and a darker complexion.

shoot one which stood near the Before our departure, the chief of road, but our guard prohibited it the place made a secret requestto our “ Not even Christians,” said he, interpreter for a glass of brandy. “ molest that bird.” Unlike the simple shepherds of the preceding day, he swallowed it with infinite delight in the sight of hea. Customs and general Occupations ven and his prophet. In return

of the Inhabitants of the Pa. he brought before us a celebrated ramaribo. [From the Narfare snake-catcher, who had just come

of Baron Albert Von Sack, down from the mountains. Ho Chamberlain to his Prussian carried with him a long narrow

Majesty.] basket, containing several tolera. bly large serpents, which he han A wealthy inbabitant of Paramadled with great indifference. They ribo generally employs his time in appeared, however, evidently stu. the following manuer: He rises at pified, either by art, or by long six o'clock, and, to enjoy the confinament and frequent band. pleasantness of the morning, takes

his breakfast under his piazza, at also subscription-balls, where the which he is attended by a number colour of the dresses cannot afford of female negroes, and a boy who more variety than the different presents him with a segar-pipe; complexions of the company. during this time he orders the do. The inhabitants who are bora mestic concerns for the day; then, here of European parents, or the putting on a light dress, he takes a creoles, shew, in their infancy, an walk by the side of the river, to early display of extraordinary ta. see if there are any new vessels ar. lects; but they are like the fertile sived. and io. converse with their soil of the tropics, which, is not captains. About eig:t o'clock he well cultivated, will soon be overreturns home, and till ten employs spread with weeds. Sorne, who himself in business, then takes a have the good fortune to obtain second breakfast, which consists proper instructions, prove that of more solid articles than the first, they are capable of being brought and would be considered in Eu. up to any line of business. They rope as a tolerably good dinner; possess a strong memory for learn. after this he occasionally returns ing languages, and they are all dis. to business till about two o'clock, tinguished by the excellence of when he goes to a clob, of which their hand-writing ; fencing they there are two principal ones; here learn well, as also the use of other be learns the news of the day, arms, and they shew a great deal takes some refreshment, or cor- of address in all bodily exercies, dials, and returns home at three to' The people of colour born in this dinner, which is often in the so- colony possess much the same ta. ciety of his friends. Some have lents as those born of European the same.custom here as prevails in parents, and are well made. The the south of Europe, of indulging women are remarkable for their themselves with a nap in the after fine figure, beautiful eyes, and fine noon, but others rather prefer a teeth ; but their dark complexion walk About six o'clock, after admits not the rosy colour of the taking his tea, if he is not engaged cheeks: the hair is crisped; but in any other company, he again the mestizos, who are born of an visits the club to play at cards or European father and a mulatto billiards, and about ten he returns woman, are a degree more remote home to his supper, and then to rest. from the negro; and these persons

Several gentlemen who have'a are often so fair as to be hardly taste for music, hold a concert al. distinguishable from the Europeans. most every week, to which they The quaderoops are still a degree invite company. There is likewise nearer the Europeans, all the dis. a theatre here, and gentlemen, for tinctions between them are no their amusement, have given us se longer perceptible, and the laws veral representations ; amongst themselves give them the same rights them were some very excellent as Europeans, They possess a performers..

great deal of vivacity in their tem. Besides the balls given by the per, much natural wit, and, it is governor and general in honour of said, they are very constant in some particular days, there are their affection. A curious custom


« ZurückWeiter »