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are!) is that Raphael colored it vermilion. Nobody cursed that.
When Cupid first beheld a woman, according to the author of the Roxburghe Ballads,
He prankt it up in Fardingals and
Muffs, In Masks, Rebatos, Shapperowns, and
Wyers, In Paintings, Powd'rings, Perriwigs,
and Cuffes, In Dutch, Italian, Spanish, French
attires; Thus was it born, brought forth, and
made Love's baby, And this is that which now we call a
who may be, if they will, the most vivid historians of all in the matter of clothes, are divided upon the subject. Kemble, when he played Hamlet, wore a Riband and powdered his hair, not because he supposed that powder and jewelled Orders were in fashion at the Court of Claudius, King of Denmark, but because a Prince, in the costume in which they were accustomed to see Princes, appealed more forcibly to his audience. (Mrs. Aria contributes this information; it is not borne out by the full-length portrait of Kemble as "Hamlet.") Macready, on the other hand, used to sleep in his armor, before he played Henry V., that he might wear it without the least suspicion of clumsiness.
Coiffure again is curious thing. For a hundred years or more the hair of women was never seen in England. When they found out that, after all, it was a pleasing sight, they disposed of it in two long plaits, they crushed it into nets and bags, at last they hid it away again under enormous horns and caps the shape of a church steeple. They showed their taste for adventure perhaps, their sympathy with Crusading husbands, in the pellisse, imitated from the coats worn by the ladies of Persia. Queen Elizabeth, who wore so many strange clothes herself, was good enough to make a number of laws for other people about them:-
That is all very well. It is an earlier variant of a song that charmed us all a few years ago:
Just look at that, just look at this! I really think I'm not amiss!
In between comes another sweet echo:
My bigh commode, my damask gown,
My lac'd shoes of Spanish leather, A silver bodkin in my head,
And a dainty plume of feather.
The other side of the picture is given by the Knight of La Tour Landry, a model father of the fourteenth century, who, wishing to keep his daughters from extravagance, told them the awful story of a gentleman, who lost his wife and went to "an beremyte hys uncle" to know whether she was saved or not, and how "it stode with her." Then the hermit told her he had seen in a dream
How often hath her majestie with the grave advice of her honorable Councel, sette down the limits of apparell to every degree, and how soon again hath the pride of our harts overflowen the chanell!
At one time, shoemakers who made long-toed shoes for any under the rank of a yeoman were cursed by the clergy. The pot-bat may be seen in the cartoon of *St. Paul preaching at Athens"; and the reason why it is not seen (how odd the reasons of things
Seint Michelle and the devell that had her in a bala unce, and alle her good dedes in the same balaunce, and a develle and all her evelle dedes in that other balaunce. And the most that grevid her was her good and gay clothing, and furres of gray minevere and letuse; and the develle cried and sayde, Seint Michel, this woman had tenne diverse gownes and as mani
cotes; and thou wost welle lesse We do not dress our hair d la guillotine, myghte have suffised her after the
nor carry ships of the line on top of it lawe of God... and he toke all her
We do not suffer to be fair. Some juellys and rynges and also the
thing, however, we mean by dress, false langage that she had saide...
whether we know it or not; at least as and cast hem in the balaunce with ber evelle dedes.
much as did our ancestors. Fantastic
ideals of beauty and stateliness move Jean de Meum, too, is very severe:- us no longer. To see a little Blue "I know not whether they call gibbets
Coat boy about the streets, or an old or corbels that which sustains their pensioner of the gay Lord Leicester horns, which they consider so fine, but
with his Bear and his Ragged Star, I venture to say that St. Elizabeth is
is to see something that we gaze upon not in Paradise for having carried
fondly, but without understanding. such baubles.”
We have begun to study the safety The fashions of the social world
and the health even of those on whom change, and their very names change
our own safety depends, even of soland are forgotten. Wimples, coifs,
diers, even of children. cascanets, carkenels, fusles, frislets, palisadoes, who cares about them any
All visible things are emblems; what
thou seest is not there on its own acmore? Who, when he walks down Pic
count; strictly taken, is not there at cadilly, thinks of the shop where
all. Matter exists only spiritually, charming bands, trimmed with lace and to represent some idea and body it and called pecoadilles, were sold to the forth. Hence clothes, as despicable as dandies? “Caskades of ribands” have we think them, are so unspeakably sig. had their day. The thirty-two ways
nificant. Clothes, from the King's of tying a cravat have given place to
mantle downwards, are emblematic,
not of want only, but of a manifold the thirty-third. We are sober enough cunning Victory over Want now; our very extravagance is dull.
Lovers of "John Inglesant" can Most people, doubtless, have felt a scarcely fail to hear with pleasure the cheerful confidence that the supply of announcement of a series of twenty- Carlyle letters and memoirs was erfour “Drawings Illustrative of John hausted some years ago; but this sense Inglesant" by Lady Jane Lindsay. The of security is dissipated by the anLondon Times speaks of them in terms nouncement of a new volume of Carof high praise.
lyle letters which Mr. Frederic Harri.
son has edited. Mr. Benson's “From a College Window," which Living Age readers en- Recent political events in Persia joyed so keenly, has compelled the re- should lend special interest to l vol
ume just published in London "Queer one franc Maupassant's, Ohnet's, TheuThings About Persia” in which Mr. riet's, and other works; Messrs. Cal. Douglas Sladen has collaborated with mann lévy are offering at 95 centimes M. Eustache de Lorey, who was for an illustrated edition of their best authree years a member of the French thors such as “Pêcheur d'Islande," by Legation at Teberan.
Pierre Loti, and “Le Crime de Sylves
tre Bonnard," by Anatole France. M. Mr. Fisher Unwin has in prepara- Ernest Flammarion prints a like coltion a volume entitled "Forty Years in lection, and it is said that a popular Paris," by Mr. Walter Lonergan, daily paper, with a circulation of one whose reminiscences as an English million and a half, is buying copyjournalist in the French capital extend rights in order to launch a similar sefrom the last years of the Second Em- ries, including not only reprints but pire down to the present time. Mr. new books. Lonergan was for many years a correspondent of the Daily Telegraph.
In “The Port of Missing Men” Mere
dith Nicholson ingeniously uses the The "Large Print Edition" of stand- clouds which have bung over the sucard writings wbich Doubleday, Page & cession in Austria as a background for Co. announce will be a boon to readers a clever and readable story of presentwho find the type of most of the cur- day adventure. His hero, John Armirent series of reprints uncomfortably tage, of parentage unknown, owner of small. It will open with Emily large ranching interests in Montana, Brontë's novel “Wuthering Heights” but often mistaken for an Englishman, which is to be followed by the other and more conversant with Continental Brontë novels, and these by certain of intrigue than seems consistent with Charles Reade's novels.
either character, is in possession of
documents proving the death of two Mrs. Stannard affirms that her last members of the Austrian house, and novel is the ninety-sixth which has the efforts of conspirators in the pay come out under her pen-name of John of a third to get possession of them, Strange Winter. Nor does the ninety- together with the mystery which sursix include everything, as she informs rounds his own identity, shape a plot us that there are, in addition, nine long whose scene shifts from Geneva to supplements to the Family Herald. It Washington, D.C., and then to the Viris no wonder that at the end she has to ginia mountains. The piquant daughconfess, “I am now tired of writing ter of an American jurist furnishes the novels"; and it sounds pathetic when romantic interest. The story does not she adds, “But it does not do to be tax the reader's credulity more than tired of earning one's living."
the conventions of the current histori
cal novel allow, and it is well told, There is a tendency among Parisian lively, entertaining, and wholesome. publishers to lower the price of novels, The Bobbs-Merrill Co. or rather to give to the public in a more accessible form the successful novels The subject of Alice C. C. Gaussen's of later years. Some time ago M. "A Woman of Wit and Wisdom" is Fayard started an illustrated series at Elizabeth Carter, whose long life 95 centimes, which has proved a suc- spanned nearly the whole of the cess, and now .other publishers follow eighteenth century, and whose visuit; Messrs. Ollendorf republish at vacity, wit and brilliant conversi
cluded fifty-five pages about his scitre of a literary and social circle entific pre-occupations, and it is not of more than ordinary influence. She surprising to learn that it almost led wrote verse; she translated Epicte- to the termination of the engagement. tus, which was for those days a mar- In addition to the memoir by Mrs. velous achievement for feminine tal- Humphry there are appreciations by ent; she numbered among her friends Sir George Stokes's colleagues-ProDr. Johnson, Samuel Richardson, Mrs. fessor E. D. Liveing, Sir Michael FosMontagu and a host beside; she would ter, Sir W. Huggins, and the Bishop have nothing to do with matrimony, of Bristol. but her home at Deal was a meetingplace for many congenial spirits; and The Academy reports that Oxford, she left a multitude of letters, notes following the example of Sherborne and other memorials which, with the
and Warwick, is to have her Pageant numerous contemporary tributes to her
this summer; and it says of the prepacharms and accomplishments furnish rations: abundant material for a diverting study of English life and society in The time chosen is Commemorationthe eighteenth century. Her portrait,
week, that June festival which anas it looks out upon the reader from
nually drives the shy don to seek bis the frontispiece, fully justifies Miss
peace elsewhere. Among the promot
ers and organizers of the Pageant "all Gaussen's characterization of her.
the (Oxford) talents" are to be found. There are other portraits and a fac
both those who linger, like Mr. Godley. simile of her handwriting. E. P. Dut
in her courts, and those who, like Mr. ton & Co.
Anthony Hope, once sojourned there.
The Pageant is to represent some of The London Times announces that
the most stirring scenes in the life
of the University and City, from the the Cambridge University Press will
legend of St. Frideswide to the recepshortly publish in two volumes, the
tion of the Allied Sovereigns at the "Memoir and Scientific Correspondence Commemoration of 1814. St. Frides. of the late Sir George Gabriel Stokes," wide's story will be followed by the selected and arranged by Professor Jo
burning of her church, which was set seph Larmor, who edited the last two
fire to destroy the unfortunate
Danes who had incurred the displeasvolumes of the collected edition of Sir
ure of Ethelred the Unready. Other George Stokes's “Mathematical and
episodes presented will be the incident Physical Papers." The personal me- of Fair Rosamund, the famous riots moir is by Sir George Stokes's daugh- of St. Scholastica's Day, when the ter, Mrs. Laurence Humphry, who in- "gown" came off so badly, the recepcludes numerous extracts from letters
tion of various Sovereigns, Amy Robwritten by her father to his future
sart's funeral, the surrender of the City
to the Parliamentarians, and the exwife at the time of their engagement.
pulsion of the Fellows of Magdalen "The letters,” explains Mrs. Humphry,
by James II. As King Charles I. and “were so unlike ordinary love-letters, his Queen are to arrive by water, it is so dignified and impersonal in their ex- to be presumed that the Pageant will pression, that, written, as he said, to
be played in some meadow bordering explain his character, they must be
the Isis. Alfred the Great, it is to of legitimate interest to others as con
be feared, will not put in an appear
ance. It is, indeed, chastening to be taining the only self-revelation that he
reminded that our oldest University apparently ever consciously made."
originated from the arrival of a band One of these love-letters, it seems, in- of foreign scholars.
No. 3270 March 9, 1907.
NINETEENTH CENTURY AND AFTER 579
fies the Doctor's Opinion of Him. Chapter XXII. The Billet
of a Bullet. By Horace G. Hutchinson. (To be continued) 594 The White Man and the British Empire. By A Looker-On
MACMILLAN'S MAGAZINE 602
PALL MALL MAGAZINE 624
SATURDAY REVIEW 630 Mr. Bryce and America .
631 The Diffusion of Deference
COUNTRY LIFE 578 The Picture
SPEAKER 578 BOOKS AND AUTHORS
XI. XII. XII.
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