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General Steam Navigation Co., 55, Great Tower Street, E.C., and 14, Waterloo
Place, London, S.W.

GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY.

(From and to Irongate and St. Katharine's Wharf, near the Tower.) When the Company's Vessels cannot come alongside the Wharf, Passengers and their Luggage are conveyed by Steam Tender to the Ships FREE OF CHARGE.

*LONDON AND BOULOGNE.

LONDON AND OSTEND, THE RHINE, AND SWITZERLAND.
The Swift and Swallow.

From London-Wednesday and Sunday.

From Ostend-Tuesday and Friday.

FARES.-Chief Cabin, 15s.; Fore Cabin, 10s. Return Tickets, 23s. and 15s. 6d. *LONDON AND ANTWERP, THE RHINE, AND SWITZERLAND The Hawk and Falcon.

From London-Every Wednesday and Saturday.

From Antwerp-Every Tuesday and Saturday.

FARES.-Chief Cabin, 16s.; Fore Cabin, 11s. Return Tickets, 25s. and 178.

LONDON AND HAMBURG.

Bittern, Kestrel, Osprey, Iris, Rainbow, Martin, or Virgo.

From London-Every Wednesday and Saturday.

From Hamburg-Every Wednesday and Saturday.

FARES.-Chief Cabin, 40s.; Fore Cabin, 20s. Return Tickets, 61s. 6d. and 31s.
LONDON TO OPORTO, PORTUGAL, AND SPAIN.
Departures from each end every three weeks. For dates see daily papers.
FARES.-Chief Cabin, 84s. Ladies, 10s. extra.

LONDON AND BORDEAUX, SOUTH OF FRANCE, AND THE
PYRENEES.

The Albatross, Gannet, or Lapwing.

From London-Every Friday.

From Bordeaux-Every Friday.

FARES.-Chief Cabin, 60s.; Fore Cabin, 40s. Return Tickets, 100s. and 66s. 8d. THROUGH TICKETS are issued to the Pyrenees, Arcachon, Biarritz, Pau, Cannes, Nice, Marseilles, Madrid, Barcelona, &c.

LONDON AND THE

MEDITERRANEAN.

(Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messina, and Palermo.)

Raven, Swan, Mallard, Redstart, and Cormorant.
From London-Every alternate Wednesday.

LONDON AND EDINBURGH (Granton Pier).

The Libra and Penguin.

IMPROVED AND ACCELERATED SERVICE.

From London-Every Wednesday and Saturday.

From Edinburgh (Granton Pier). Every Wednesday and Saturday.
FARES.-Chief Cabin, 22s.; Fore Cabin, 16s. Return, 34s. and 24s. 6d.

*LONDON AND HULL.

Every Wednesday and Saturday from London and Hull.

FARES.-Saloon, 8s.; Fore Cabin, 6s. Return Tickets, 12s. 6d. and 9s. 6d.

Return Tickets are available for two months. Steward's Fees are included in the

From London

Bridge Wharf.

Fares.

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The above arrangements are subject to such alteration from time to time as the Directors may think necessary or desirable. See Advertisements in daily papers.

For Bank Holiday Arrangements, see Spécial Bills and Advertise

ments.

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Cannon Street Station.-London Stone.

77

&c. St. Mildred's Church, Bread Street, St. Nicholas, and St. Mary Magdalen in Old Fish Street, were all by Sir C. Wren. The lastnamed church was destroyed by fire, in the autumn of 1886; fortunately the monument to the Rev. R. H. Barham, a former rector, and author of the Ingoldsby Legends,' was saved. St. Mary Aldermary (wherein Milton was married, Feb. 22, 1662, to Elizabeth Minshull) faces the Mansion House Station of the Underground Railway.

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WATLING STREET, said to be derived from Atheling (noble), forms part of the direct old Roman road from Dover through London to Chester, and to a certain extent marks the line of separation between the Danish settlers in the north and east, and the Saxons of the south and west. TOWER ROYAL is a name indicating the site of an old royal palace, in which the widow of the Black Prince was residing when the rebels under Wat Tyler broke in upon her. BUDGE Row was named from the sellers of Budge or lambskins who dwelt there, and on the façade of No. 28 is an ancient carved sign, with date of 1628. The Cannon Street Station is the City terminus of the South-Eastern Railway, which by means of the Cannon Street Bridge over the Thames, communicates every five minutes with Charing Cross or with London Bridge, and joins the South-Western Railway at Waterloo Station, halfway to Charing Cross. The Cannon Street Hotel is one of several large and commodious railway hotels built of late years in London for the use of travellers. Opposite the Station is the Church of St. Swithin, rebuilt by Wren and since modernised. Dryden was married here in 1663 to Lady Elizabeth Howard.

LONDON STONE is to be seen fixed into the south end of St. Swithin's Church, facing the Cannon Street Station. It formerly stood on the south side of the street, but was removed in 1798, set in a large stone case and eventually built as we see it into the outer wall of St. Swithin's. London Stone was the Milliarium or central milestone, from which all other milestones marked distances, even as the Milliarium in the Forum at Rome was the centre from which all Roman roads radiated. It is worthy of remembrance that our English word Mile is derived from the Old Roman millia-a thousand paces, and that we alone of all the nations of Western Europe retain this old Roman designation. In Stowe's time, London Stone was "fixed in the ground, fastened with bars of iron, and otherwise so strongly set that if carts do run against it through negligence, the wheels be broken and the stone itself unshaken." Strype describes this stone as much worn, "but a stump remaining before the fire of London," but "it is now for the preservation of it cased over with a new stone." Shakespeare in Henry VI.,' act iv. sc. 6, describes Jack Cade entering Cannon Street with his followers in triumph, and, "striking his staff on London Stone," saying, “Now is Mortimer lord of this city. And here, sitting upon London Stone, I charge and command, that, of the city's cost, the conduit run nothing but claret wine this first year

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78 St. Swithin's Lane.-The Boar's Head,' Eastcheap.

of our reign. And now, henceforward, it shall be treason for any that calls me other than-Lord Mortimer." When looking at this old fragment of the past, and remembering that it has been here for a thousand years, that it is perhaps the most perfect historical relic of the Roman occupation, being in fact the "quorna or umbilicvs castri Londinensis," and that it has been recognised as such, or as, at all events, one of the most ancient of London landmarks, by every historian, dramatist, and antiquary known to English literature, we shall esteem London Stone as one of the most interesting of old world relics. In ST. SWITHIN'S LANE is the Hall of the Company of Salters; also the Counting-House of Baron Rothschild, whose name, meaning "red shield," was probably derived from the sign-board of a Dutch ancestor and money-changer. The counting-house stands a little back from the street upon the west side. The City Carlton Club is at Nos. 24 to 27; and at the northern end of St. Swithin's Lane, upon the east side, is a long-noted house for cheap city luncheons, the Bay Tree. ABCHURCH LANE is named from the parish of St. Mary Abchurch or Upchurch. St. Dunstan's-in-the-East, restored by Wren, is near Eastcheap. The Boar's Head in EASTCHEAP (rendered for ever memorable by Shakespeare as the scene of Falstaff and Prince Henry's roysterings), was burnt down in the Great Fire. It stood upon the site occupied now by the Statue of William IV., at the end of King William Street. There is proof that in Shakespeare's time the Boar's Head Tavern in Eastcheap existed, and was of some repute, for Robert Harding, Alderman of London, who died in the 11th year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, is recorded to have been seised of a messuage, sive tenem. sive tabern, called the Boare's Head lying in East Cheape in the parish of St. Michael in Crooked Lane, London, in the tenure of Edward Betham." The Tavern was rebuilt after the Great Fire, and had over its central door a boar's head carved in stone. Goldsmith, Boswell and Washington Irving have each given us an ideal picture of the ancient hostelry. Many a traveller to London, before and since, has set himself to find some relic of the old Boar's Head' in Eastcheap, where Falstaff swallowed his "intolerable quantity of sack to but a ha'porth of bread." So long as a house stood upon the ground, it was possible for fancy to supply some comfort to the Eastcheap pilgrim. William IV.'s Statue to such a man must seem a mockery and a wrong.

66

GRACECHURCH STREET, formerly written Gracious Street, but also, and more properly, Grasschurch Street, from the parish church of St. Benet (recently abolished), called Grasschurch, because of the herbmarket there kept. Mark Lane, originally Mart Lane, is noted all over the world for its Corn Exchanges, Old and New.

MINCING LANE, named after the Minchuns (Saxon for Nuns) of St. Helen, is the site of a busy mart (30-4) for wholesale dealers in Tea, Wine, Spices, and every variety of other Foreign produce; and

Old City Churches.-Tower Hill.

79

these commodities are disposed of by auction in the various Commercial Sale Rooms, simultaneously, by perhaps half-a-dozen different auctioneers in as many apartments-the purchasers being generally composed of distinctly separate classes of traders. No other house in London, perhaps in the world, collects together and disperses so many products of the earth. Here are we peculiarly reminded of the extent to which we are indebted for our necessaries and luxuries to

remote and widely separate climes. "Our food often grows in one country, and our sauce in another. The fruits of Portugal are corrected by the produce of Barbadoes, and the infusion of a Chinese plant is sweetened by the pith of an Indian cane. Whereas no fruit grows originally in this climate but hips and haws, acorns and pignuts." The Hall of the Clothworkers' Company is on the east side of Mincing Lane. Samuel Pepys was Master of the Company in 1677, and presented to it a richly chased silver "Loving Cup," still used upon festive occasions. A tablet and bust to his memory was set up in 1884 by public subscription in St. Olave's Church, Hart Street, Mark Lane, where Pepys and his wife were buried.

CRUTCHED FRIARS is named from a Priory of cruxed or crossed Friars which formerly stood here.

From Gracechurch Street through Little Eastcheap and Great Tower Street we shall best reach the Tower of London. The Church of Allhallows, Barking (so called from its founders, the nuns of Barking Abbey), is at the end of the last-named street, and contains some fine examples of brass memorials, and one or two altar tombs of great antiquity. In this church were buried several of those personages who had been beheaded on Tower Hill. Of such Old City Churches, with their various peculiar features, Dickens wrote as follows: "In the churches about Mark Lane there was a dry whiff of wheat, and I accidentally struck an airy sample of barley out of an aged hassock in one of them. From Rood Lane to Tower Street and there about, there was sometimes a subtle flavour of wine; sometimes of tea. One church near Mincing Lane smelt like a druggist's drawer. Behind the Monument the service had a flavour of damaged oranges, which a little farther down the river tempered into herrings, and gradually turned into a cosmopolitan blast of fish.” The Czar's Head' public-house near Tower Hill was named after Peter the Great, who is said to have frequented it with his companion soakers and smokers.

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TOWER HILL is a large open space of great historical note. On the site of the present garden of Trinity Square stood the wooden scaffold whereon many most eminent persons were beheaded, including Bishop Fisher and Sir Thomas More, Cromwell Earl of Essex, Henry Howard Earl of Surrey, Thomas Lord Seymour, of Sudely, the Protector Somerset, John Dudley Earl of Northumberland, Lord G. Dudley, Sir Thomas Wyat, Wentworth Earl of Strafford, Archbishop Laud,

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