The Arctic Regions, and Polar Discoveries During the Nineteenth Century

LONDON

SAVILL AND EDWARDS, PRINTERS, CHANDOS-STREET,

COVENT GARDEN.

PREFACE

TO THE NINTH EDITION.

Or the many gallant exploits and daring adventures by land and by sea, which have added to the reputation and noble deeds of Englishmen, there is none of which we have greater reason to be proud than those perilous explorations in the Arctic Regions, which will ever render the nineteenth century a marked era in the history of Nations.

Dangers and hardships seem rather to attract than to appal the adventurous Englishman, and private and public explorations have followed each other in such quick succession, during the past ten years, that it has been somewhat difficult to keep pace with the record of them. Every succeeding voyager and traveller seems to have striven to outdo his predecessors in acquiring fame, and in the boldness and daring with which he has prosecuted his researches. If we have had little opportunity for the display of heroism in the competitive war struggle on the ocean of late years, our naval officers have at least sought and gained reputation in the icy fields of the Arctic Regions, in the extended search for our lost countrymen under Sir John Franklin. The Chart of the Polar Regions will ever be a striking memorial of what can be done by brave hearts and willing hands. The highly wrought pictures of fiction fade before the simple and stern truths of reality, and the narratives of Arctic Discovery have an exciting interest and thrilling pathos, which will ever render them deeply attractive to both old and in young all ages. Even when the melancholy personal interest which is now felt by those who mourn for relatives and friends lost in Arctic voyages shall have subsided, the stirring history recorded in these pages will have an interest for future generations when all who have taken part in them shall have passed away.

The love of adventure is inherent in the breast of the Englishman, and shows itself in a hundred varied shapes, but in none more prominently than in the desire to explore unknown countries and distant regions. Maritime discovery has been the peculiar field of British enterprise and British glory, and in no quarter has it found a more

extended field of operation than in the channels around the North Pole. To restrain this energy and spirit of adventure within prudent limits is impossible. It will find scope for hazard in some quarter, whether it be in ascending Mont Blanc, penetrating the unknown rivers of Africa, Asia, or America, or exploring the interior of Australia. There are some restless spirits that shine out brightest in danger and daring, and the result of much of this research in distant quarters has certainly been beneficial. Many men have attained to distinguished eminence by their courage, perseverance, and enterprise in accomplishing journeys and voyages of great peril, and attended with immense difficulties. None can read the accounts of the various journeys and voyages by land and sea to determine the question of a North West Passage, and the fate of the expedition under Sir John Franklin, without being impressed with admiration for the spirit of heroism which sustained the explorers through so many perils and privations.

In the following pages I have sought merely to furnish a simple digest of the different voyages and travels in the Arctic Regions, ending with that final but satisfactory expedition of Capt. M'Clintock, which informed us of the fate of Sir John Franklin and his ships, an inquiry that had previously baffled all investigation.

That this little work has reached a ninth edition, and met with so large and extended a sale, is to be attributed more to the general, nay universal, interest which has been felt on the subject itself, than to any credit I can assume for the narrative. Long, however, may the story of Arctic discovery be read and pondered over, whether at the fireside of our quiet English homes, at the mess table of our sailors and soldiers, in the shepherd's hut of Australia, or in the log cabin of America; wherever it may be that England's sons read over the detailed record of those bold deeds and adventurous discoverers, they will participate in the noble spirit of those who have lived and died in their country's service, and have just reason to be proud that they too are Englishmen, and participators in the glory, honour, and renown which have been thus achieved by many through great peril and suffering for the "land that bears a world-wide name."

8, Winchester Street, Pimlico.

November 24, 1859.

P. L. SIMMONDS.

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Little known of the Arctic Regions.-Notice of Captain Phipps'

voyage.-Parry's and Franklin's opinions on a North-west

passage.-Abstract of Sir John Barrow's works on Arctic

Discovery.-England's neglect of her nautical heroes.

Captain John Ross's voyage in the Isabella and Alexander

to Hudson's Bay in 1818

Names of officers and men.-Ships visited by the natives of
Greenland.-Abundance of birds on this coast.-Gale of wind.
-Red snow.-Lancaster Sound.-The fabulous Croker moun-
tains.-Agnes monument.-Large bear shot.-Return home.

Voyage of Buchan and Franklin in the Dorothea and Trent

to Spitzbergen, &c., 1818

Names of officers and complement, &c.-Fanciful appearance of

icebergs.-Ships arrive at Spitzbergen.-Anchor in Magdalene

bay.-Hanging icebergs.-Immense flocks of birds.-Danger-

ous ascent of Rotge Hill.-Attack of walruses.-Surprised by

unlooked-for visitors.-Devout feeling of recluses.-Expedition

puts to sea again.-Party lose themselves on the ice.-Ships

damaged by pressure of the floes.-Dangerous position of the

ships. They take refuge in the main pack of icebergs.-

Vessels put into Fair Haven to stop leaks and refit.-Return

home.

Party leave England in the Prince of Wales.-Reach Hudson's
Bay factory by the end of August.-Proceed by the rivers and
lakes to Cumberland House.-Arrive at Fort Chipewyan after
a winter journey of 857 miles.-Engage voyageurs and guides.
-Make the acquaintance of Akaitcho, the Indian chief.-Push
on for Fort Enterprise, which is made their winter residence
after a voyage of 553 miles.-Exploring excursions carried
on during the winter.-" Green Stockings," the Indian beauty.
-Stores and Esquimaux interpreters arrive.-Severity of the

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winter.-Suffering of the Indians.-Party set out for the Polar
Sea.-Examine the coast westward to Point Turnagain.-
Dreadful hardships and sufferings endured on their return
journey from famine and fatigue.-Death of several of the
party. Mr. Hood is murdered by Michel the Iroquois, who
for their mutual safety is killed by Dr. Richardson.-Hunger
and famine endured by the party.-Their ultimate relief.

Parry's First Voyage in the Hecla and Griper, 1819-20. . 50

Names of officers serving, &c.-Enter Lancaster Sound.-The

Croker mountains proved to be fallacious.-Parry discovers

and enters Regent Inlet.-Also discovers and names various

islands, capes and channels.-Reaches Melville Island.-Expe-

dition cross the meridian of 110 deg. W., and become entitled

to the Parliamentary reward of £5000.-Drop anchor for the

first time.Land on the island.-Abundance of animals

found.-An exploring party lose themselves for three days.-

But are recovered and brought back.-Vessels get into winter

quarters.-A MS. newspaper published.-Amateur plays per-

formed.-Observatory destroyed by fire.-Scurvy makes its