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tlements, the planes' of which were looked at us, but did not stir a muscles worked in a species of close lattice. We we now proceeded straightforwards proceeded through this court into ano- until Sir Harford faced the prince, where wher, the spacious area of which seemed be was then directed to sit, and we all to form a complete square. Its magni- took our stations in order. When we ficent walls were covered in regular com- were seated, the prince said in a loud partments wiih various implements of voice, " Khosh amedeed," that is, “ You war, arranged in distinct niches. Among are welcome;" which was repeated by them (besides spears, muskets, &c. and Nasr Oallal Khan, his minister, who the small ensigns of their service) were stood at about five paces from him in an the brass guns, called somboorek, which attitude of respect. Sir Harford made are inounted on the backs of canels, the compliments required, when the Along the range stood soldiers in una prince desired us to sit at our ease. We forms of scarlet clothi, an awkward imi- however, as in a former instance, chose tation of the Russian military dress. to be respectful and uncomfortable, and
About thirty paces from tbe principal to continue in the fashion of Persia. yate, Şir Harford dismounted, and tut The prince then added a variety of lowed by us all, whilst the trumpet of flattering things, calked of the friende the troop sounded the salute, advanced ship of the two nations, said how ani. through the portico. Here the ish agassi, ious his father was to see the Embassa or master of the ceremonies, Bairam Ali dor, and advised him to proceed to his Khan Cadjar, who had been seated in court without delay. We had kaleoons, a small place opposite the entrance, rose then coffee, and then (a compliment not at our approach to meet us. He then repeated to a common guest) another called for his staff of office (a black cane kaleoon. After this way over, we go with a carsed pummel); and, placing up, and making an obeisance, quitted himself at the head of the party, led us the prince's presence, with every precau. through rather a mean passage into a tion not to turn our backs as we de spacious court, at the extremity of which parted. The same number of bows, appeared the prince. He was seated repeated in the same places, as on our in a kind of open room, the front of entrance, closed the audience. which was supported by two pillars el.
PRINCE OF SHIRAZ. gantlygiided and painted. This is called Ali Mirza, the Prince of Shiraz, is not the Deuun Khoneh, or chamber of au. the least amiable of the King's sons, dience.
. After Prince Abbas Mirza, the governor To the centre of the court is an avenue of Aderbigian, and the heir of the crown, of lofty trees, at the sides of which are he is his father's greatest favourite. In two long canals: these numerous foun. person he is an engaging youth of the tains threw up a variety of liule spouts inost agreeable countenance, and of very of water, to the jingle of the wheels and pleasing manners. His dress was most bells of their machinery. On all sides sumptuous; his breast was one thick of the court were placed in close files a coat of pearls, which was terminated number of well-dressed men, arnied with downwards by a girdle of the richiest muskets, pistols, and swords; these were stuffs ; in this was placed a dagger, the the subalterns, and the belter sort of the head of which dazzled by the number soldiery in the prince's guard. Amongst and brilliancy of its inlaid diamonds, them were bere and there intermixed His coat was rich crimson and gold officers of high rank. In the centre brocade, with a thick fur on the upper of the avenue, and on the borders of part. Around his black cap was wound the canal, stood in long rows, respect. à Cashmire shawl, and by his side, in a fully silent, and in postures of humility, gold platter, was a string of the finest all the chief officers, khans, governors pearls. Before him was placed his ki ot towns and districts..
leoon of state, a magnificent toy, thickly When we entered the court, the ish inlaid with precious stones in every disagussi stope, and made a very low tinct part of its machinery. To me the obeisance towards the prince; and Sir prince appeared to be under much conHarlord and his mission made an Eng. straint during the ceremony of our aulish baw, and just took off their hats. dience, in which he had been previous
These salutations, which were made ly tutored by his minister; and I very four times, iu as many different places of easily believe, according to the stories the court, were repeated as we entered related of him, that he exchanges with the Dewan Kbunéh. The prince in all this eagerness thece etiquettes of rank me
the less restrained enjoyments of his murs of the crowd around, amused, yet power. On these he lavishes his re- almost distracted, us. venue; and, in the costliness of a hunting The rope-dancer performed some feats, equipage, the fantasies of dress, and the which really did credit to his profession. delicacies of the harem, are frittered! He first walked over his rope with his away an hundred thousand tomauns a. balancing pole, then vaulted on high; he year. Young as he is (for he is only ascended the rope to a tree in an angle nineteen) he has already a family of of forty-five degrees : but, as he was eight children. In his public govern- reaching the very extremity of the upper ment he is much beloved by tris people; range of the angle, he could proceed no and although the Persians are not ju- further, and remained in an uncertain clined in coliversation to spare the faults position for the space of two minutes. of their superiors, of him I never heard He afterwards tied his bands to a ropean evil word. He las nut indeed those ladder of three large steps; and, first sanguinary propensities, which are almost balancing his body by the middle on the paturally imbibed in the possession of main line, let fall the ladder and himself, despotic power; and, where others cut and was only brought up by the strength off ears, slit noses, and pierce eyes, be of his wrists thus fastened to their supcontents himself with the administration port. He next put on a pair of highof the more lenient bastinado.
heeled shoes, and paraded about again : ENTERTAINMENT OF THE MINISTER then put his feet into two saucepans, and · At about one hour before sunset, we walked backwards and forwards. After repaired to the house of the Minister, to this he suspended himself by his feet partake of an entertainment which was from the rope ; and, taking a gun, deligiven to the Envoy. We had scarcelyberately loaded and primed it, and, in dismounted from our horses at the Mi. that pendant position, took an aim at an nister's gate, when the crowd, anxious to egg (placed on the ground beneath him) obtain admission, rushed forward, and and put his ball through it. After this long impeded the passage of the suite; he carried on his back a child, whom he until our Mehmander loimsell commanderi contrived to suspend, with his own body respect by administering a volley of blows besides, from the rope, and thence placed with a stick on the heads of the surrounde in safety on the ground. Ilis feats were ing multicude. As soon as the Envoy numerous, and, as he was mounted on a entered the court, (which appeared from rope much more elevated chan those on the numbers already pressed into it, to which such exploits are displayed in be the scene of the amusement), the Eagland, they were also proporcionably Persian music struck up, and a rope dangerous. A trip would have been bis dancer, whose rope stood conspicuous in inevitable destruction. He was dressed the centre, begun to vault into the air. in a fantastical jacket, and wore a pair
Abdullah Khan, the ininister's son, of brecches of crinson satin, something conducted us into the presence of his like those of Europeans. The bovs father, where we soon ranged ourselves danced, or rather paced the ground, among a numerous company of the nobles snapping their fingers to keep time with of the place, who were invited to meet the music, jingling their sınall brass casus. Abdullah Khan, who is a man of tanets, and ultering extraordinary cries, about thirty, and a persou of much con. To os all this was tires.me, but to the sequence at Shiraz, never once seated Persians it appeared very clever. One himself in the apartment where his father of the boys, having exerted himself in sat, but, according to the Eastern cus. various difficult leaps, at last took two toms of filial reverence, stood at the door kunjurs or daggers, one in each hand; like a menial servant, or went about su. and with these, springing forwards, and periotending the entertainments of the placing their points in the ground, turned day. As soon as we were settled, the himself head over heels between them amusements cominenced; and, at the and again, in a second display, turned same moment the rope-dancer vaulted, himself over with a drawn sword in his the dancing boys danced, the water, mouth. spouter spouled, the fire-eater devoured A negro appeared on the side of a fire, the singers sung, the musicians played basin of water (in which three fountains on their kamounchas, and the drummers were already playing), and, by a singular beat lustily on their drums. This singus faculty which he possessed of secreting lar combination of noises, objects, and liquids, managed to make himself a sort attitudes, added to the cries and aiur. of fourth fountain, by spouting water
from his mouth. We closely observed same moment, and produced an effect him: he drank two basins and a quarter grand beyond the powers of descriprion. of water, each holding about four quarts, At the end of this exhibition, a band and he was five minutes spouting them of choice musicians and songsters was out. Next came an eater of fire: this introduced into the particular apartment man brought a large dish full of charcoal, where we were sealed. A plaver on thie which he placer deliberately before biin, kamouncha really drew forth notes, which and then, taking up the pieces, conveyed might have done credit to the better in. them bit by bit successively into his struments of the West: and the elastic mouth, and threw them out again when manner with which be passed his bow the fire was extinguished. tle then took across the strings, convinced me that he a piece, from which lie continued to blow himself would have been an accomthe most brilliant sparks for more than plished perfornier even among those of half an hour. The trick consists in Europe, if his ear liad been tutored in putting in the mouth some cotton dipped the harinonies and delicacies of our sciin the oil of Naptha, on which the pieces ence. The notes of their guitar corresof charcoal are laid, and from which ponded exactly to those of our instru. they derive the strength of their fire: ment. Another sung some of the odes now the fame of this combustible is of Hafiz, accompanied by the kamou ncha, known to be little calid. Another inan and in a chorus by the tainborius. put into his mouth iwo balls alternately, After this concert, (some parts of which burnt with a brilliant Aame, and which were extremely noisy, and some which also were soaked in the same not unpleasant even to our ears,) apfuid.
peared, from behind a curtain, a dirtyThe music was of the roughest kind. looking negro, dressed as a fukeer, or The performers were seated in a row beggar, with an artificial hump, and with round the basin of water; the band c01). his face painted white. This character sisted of two men, who played the related facetious stories, threw himself kamuuncha, a species of violin ; four, into droll attitudes, and sung humourous who beat the camborin ; one, who thrum- songs. Amongst other things, he was a med the guitar; one, who played on the mimic; and, when he undertook to ridispoons; and two, who sung. The loud. cule the inhabitants of Ispahan, be put est in the concert were the songsters; our Shiraz audience into ecstasies of dewho, when they applied the whole force liglit and laughier. He imitated the of their lungs, drowned every other in. drawling manner of speaking, and the strument. The man with the spoons sort of nonchalance so characteristic of seemed to me the most ingenious and the Ispalaunees. The people of Shiraz least discordant of the whole band. He (who regard themselves as the prime of placed two wooden spoons, in a neat Persians, and cieir language as the most and peculiar manner, betwist the fingers pure, and their pronunciation as the of his left band, whilst be beat them most correct,) are never so well ainused with another spoon in his right.
as when the people and the dialect of All this continued till the cwilight had Ispahan are ridiculed. Those of Ispaa fairiy expired; when there commenced han, on the other hand, boast, and with a display of fire-works on a larger scale much reason), of their superior cleverness than any that I recolleet to have seen in and learning; though with these advanEurope. In the first place, the director tages indeed they aro said to mix roguery of the works caused to be thrown into and low cunning. The exhibitiou finished the fountain before us, a variety of fires, by the singing of a boy, the most re. which were fixed on square flat boards, nowned of the vocal performers at Shiand, which barsting into the most splen- raz, and one of the Prince's own band, did streams and stars of flame, seeiped Ris powers were great, descending from to put the water in one entire blaze, the very highest to the very lowest notes; He then threw up some beauuful blue and the tremulations of his voice, ju hghts, and finished the whole by dis. which the great acme of his art apcharging immense vollies of rockets peared to consist, were continued so which had been fixed in stands, each of long and so violently, that his face was (wenty rockels, in different parts of the convulsed with pain and exertion. In garden, and particularly on the surnunits order to aid the modulations, he kept a of the walls. Each stand exploded at piece of paper in his hand, with which viice; and at one time the greater part he did not cease to fan his mouth ef all the rockets were in the air at the When the concert was over, we collected
our legs onder us (which till this cirne we. carving, scarcely a word is spoken, and had kept extended at ease) to make room all are intent on the business before for the sofras or table-cloths, which were them. Their feasts are soon over; and, now Spread before us. On these were although it appears difficult to collect first placed trays of sweet viands, light such an immense number of disbes, and sugared cakes, and sherbet of various to take them away again without much descriptions. After these, dishes of confusion and ipuch time, yet all is so plain rice were put, each before two well regulated, that every thing disapguests; then pllaus, and after them a pears as if by magic. The lacquies bring, succession and variety which would have ihe dishes in long trays called conchas, sufficed ten companies of our number, which are discharged in order, and which On a very moderate oriculation there are again taken up and carried away with were two hundred disbes, exclusive of equal facility. When the whole is clear. the sherbets. All these were served up ed, and the cloths rolled up, ewers and in bowls and dishes of fine china; and basins are brought in, and every one in the bowls of sherber were placed the washes bis hand and mouth. Uniil the long spoons made of pear-tree, (which I water is presented it is ridiculous enough mentioned on a foriner occasion), and to see the right hand of every person each of which contained about the inea- (which is covered with the complicated sure of six common table-spoons, and fragments of all the dishes) placed in a with these every guest helped himself, certain position over his left arm; there The Persians bent themselves down to is a fashion even in this. The whole the dishes, and ate in general most entertainment was now over, and we heartily and indiscrininately of every took our leaves and returned home. thing, sweet and sour, meat and fish, fruit - Such a fète costs a very considerable and vegetable. They are very fond of suin. Besides ourselves, all the Envoy's ice, which they eat constantly, and in numerous servants, and all the privates great quantities, a taste which becomes of his body guard, were invited to ic. almost necessary to qualify the sweet- and ate and drank in different aparte meats which they devour so profusely,' ments. The same dinner which had The Minister, Nasr (allah Kitan, had a been put before us was afterwards carbowl of common ice constantly before ried to them; and I understand that, him, which he kept eating when the even in the cominon domestic life of a other dishes were carried away. They Persian, the profusion which is exhibited are equally fond of spices, and of every on his table surprises the European other stimulant; and highly recommende stranger; and is explained only by the ed one of their sherbets, a composition necessity of feeding his numerous bouse. of sugar, cinnamon, and other strong hold, to whom all his dishes are passed, ingredients. As the Envoy sat next to after he has satisfied his own appetite. the Minister, and I next to the Envoy, , RUINS OF PERSEPOLIS. we very frequently shared the marks of The most striking feature, on a first his peculiar attention and politeness, approachi, is the staircase and its surwhich consisted in large handluis of cer- rounding walls. Two gradd flights. tnin favourite disles. These he tore off which face cach other, lead to the prina by main strength, and put before us; cipal platforan. To the right is an imsometimes a full grasp of lamh, mixed mense wall of the finest masonry, and with a sauce of prunes, pistachio-nuts, of the most massive stones: to che left and raisius; at another time, a whole are other walls equally well built, but partridge, disguised by a rich brown not so imposing. On arriving at the sauce; and then, with the same hand, summit of the staircase, the first objects he scooped out a bit of melon, which he which present themselves directly facing gave into our palms, or a great piece of the platform, are four va:t portals and omelette thickly swimining in fat ingre- two columns. Two portals first, there dients. The dishes lie promiscuously the columns, and then eno porials again. before the guests, who all eat without On the front of each are represented, in any particular notice of one another. basso-relievo, figures of animals, which. The silence, indeed, with which the for want of a better name, we have called whole is transacted, is one of the most sphinxes. The two sphinxes on the first ayreeable circumstances of a Persian portals face outwardly, i. e. towards the feast. There is no rattle of plates and plain and the front of the buildings. knives and forks, no confusion of lacquies, The two others, on the second poriais, me drinking of healths, no disturbance of face inwardly, i, e, towards the Moulin tain. From the first, (to the right, on a building indicates rooms of rest or reStraight line,) at the distance of fifty-four tirement, Daces, is a staircase of thirty steps, the In the rear of the whole of these resides of which are ornamented with has mains, are the beds of aqueducts, which reliefs, originally in three rows, but now are cut into the solid rock. They met partly reduced by the accumulation of us in every part of the building; and are earth beneath, and by mutilation above. probably therefore as extensive in their This staircase leads to the principal com- course, as they are magnificent in their partment of the whole ruins, which may construction. The great aqueduct is to be called a small plain, thickly studded be discovered anyong a confused heap of wilb columns, sixteen of which are now stones, not far behind the buildings, which erect. Having crossed this plain, on an I have been describing, on this quarter eminence are numerous stupendous re- of the palace, and almost adjoining to a mains of frames, both of windows and ruined staircase. We descended into its doors, formed by blocks of marble, of bed, which in some places is cut ten feet sizes most magnificent. These frames into the rock. This bed leads east and are ranged in a square, and indicate an west; to the eastward its descent is apaftment the most royal that can be rapid, about twenty-five paces; it there conceived. On each side of the frames narrows, so that we could only crawl are sculptured figures, and the marble through it; and again it enlarges, so that still retains a polish which, in its original a man of common height may stand up. state, must have vied with the finest right in it. It terminates by an abrupt mirrors. On each corner of this room rock. are pedestals, of an elevation inuch more Proceeding from this towards the considerable than the surrounding frames; mountains, situated in the rear of the one is formed of a single block of mar. great hall of columns, stand the remains ble. The front of this aputment seems of a magnificent room. Here are still to have been to the $. W. for we saw few left walls, frames, and porticoes, the sides marks of masonry on that exposure, and of which are thickly ornamented with observed, that the base of that side of it bas-reliefs of a variety of compositions. was richly sculptured and ornamented. This hall is a perfect square. To the This front opens upon a square platform, right of this, and further to the south. on which no building appears to have ward, are more fragments, the walls and been raised. But, on the side opposite component parts apparently of another to the room which I have just mentioned, room. To the left of this, and therefore there is the same appearance of a core to the northward of the building, are responding apartment, although nothing the remains of a portal, on which are to but the bases of some small columns and be traced the features of a sphinx. Still the square of its floor attest it to have towards the north, in a separate collecbeen such. The interval between these tion, is the ruin of a column, which, two rooms (on those angles which are from the fragments about it, must have the farthest distant from the grand front supported a sphinx. In a recess of the of the building) is filled up by the base of mountain to the northward, is a portico. a sculpture similar to the bases of the Almost in a line with the centre of the two rooms; excepting that the centre of hall of columns, on the surface of the it is occupied by a sınall flight of steps. mountain, is a tomb. To the southward Behind, and contiguous to these ruins, of that is another, in like manner on the are the remains of another square room, mountain's surface; between both, and surrounded on all its sides by frames of just on that point where the ascent from doors and windows. On the foor are the plain cominences, is a reservoir uf the bases of columns : from the order in water. which they appeared to me to have These constitute the sum of the prinstood, they formed six rows, each of six cipal objects among the ruins of Persecolumns. A staircase, cut into an im- polis. mense mass of rock, (and from its small
ENTRANCE INTO ISPAHAN. dimensions, probably the escalier derobé At about four miles from Ispahan, we of the palace,) leads into the lesser and were met by an advanced part of the enclosed plain below. Towards the inhabitants. As we approached the city, plaiu are also three smaller rooms, or the crowd increased to numbers which Father one room and the bases of two baffled our calculation or guess. Al closets. Every thing on this part of the though the stick was administered with