place. I have seen the elder ones sitting and chatting at the well, and spinning the coarse cotton of the country, while the young girls filled the skin which contains the water, and which they all carry on their backs into the town. They do not wear shoes; their dress consists of a very ample shirt, a pair of loose trowsers, and the veil which goes over all. Their appearance is most doleful; though I have still noticed a pretty face through all the filth of their attire. The colour of their 'clothes is originally brown, but, when they become too dirty to be worn under that hue, they are sent to the dyer, who is supposed to clean them by superinducing a dark-blue or black tint. In almost every situation they might be considered as the attendants on a burial; but in a real case of death there are professional mourners, who are hired to see proper respect paid to the deceased, by keeping up the cries of etiquette to his memory. SUPERSTITIONS. Among the superstitions in Persia, that which depends on the crowing of a cock is not the least remarkable. If the cock crows at a proper hour, they esteem it a good omen; if at an improper season, they kill him. I am told that the favour able hours are at nine, both in the morn ing and in the evening, at noon and at midnight, But the lion, in the popular belief of Persia, has a discernment much more important to the interests of mankind. A fellow told me with the gravest face, that a lion of their own country would never hurt a Sheyah, (the sect of the Mabomedan religion which follows Ali, and which is established in Persia,) but would always devour a Sunni, (who recognises before Ali the three first caliphs.) On meeting a hon, you have only therefore to say, "Ya Ali," and the beast will walk by you with great respect; but should you either from zeal or the forgetfulness of terror, exclaim" Ya Omar! Oh Omar!" he will spring upon you instantly. JOURNEY FROM BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. All our arrangements were closed; and on the 17th Dec. 1808, at a quarter past eleven o'clock, the Envoy mounted his horse to proceed from Bushire. In or der to excite in the people a favourable expectation of the result of the mission, he had previously desired the astrologers to mention the time which they might deem lucky for his departure; and the hour accordingly in which we begun our journey was pronounced, by their autho rity, to be particularly fortunate. Sir Harford Jones's suite consisted of Mr. Sheridan, Mr. Bruce, Captain Sutherland, Cornet Willock, Dr. Jukes, and myself. He had two Swiss servants and an English groom, an English and a Portuguese tailor, about half a dozen Indiaus, and a very numerous assortment of Persians. The Sapphire saluted us as we set out; shortly after we met the Mehmandar and his cortège; and, after some little exchange of civilities, we all went on together. The order of the cavalcade was as follows:-The led horses, ten in number, each conducted by a well-clad jelow dar or groom; then the chief of the jelowdars with his staff of office; thep the arz-beg or lord of requests; after him were six chatters or running foot inen, who immediately preceded the Envoy. The Envoy himself was mounted on a choice Arab horse; at his right stirrup walked a picked tall chatter, the chief of his class. Then followed the gentlemen of the mission, amongst whom were disposed some moonshees. To the right and left were the pipe-trimmers, who carried all the smoking apparatus in Behind boxes fashioned for the purpose. the gentlemen and the moonshees came a great crowd of Persians on horseback; and, to close the whole, the body guard came along in goodly rows, and made an admirable finish to the groupe. The baggage all loaded on mules preceded us regularly on our march, so that when we arrived at the end of our stage we always found our tents pitched. The arrangements of our camp were, as follows:-There were two slate tenis, one for dinner, the other for receiving company. The latter, with the Envoy's private tent, were enclosed within walls, Around these were the tents of the gentlemen of the mission, each person having his own. There was also one appropriated to cooking, and many others of a smaller size for the servants and the guard of cavalry. After our dinner was over, which was generally an hour or two after sun-set, the dinner tent was taken down, loaded on the mules, and sent onwards to the next stage in readiness to receive us. About day break in the morning, the camp begun to break up; and, before our breakfast was over, for which one tent was left, all the rest of the ground was cleared, and the baggage was far on its road to the next stage. The Persians are so accustomed to this manner of life, that that they pitch and unpitch a camp with the most perfect dexterity and order. Much of course depends upon the chief of the Feroshes or tent-pitchers, called the Ferosh Bashee, who must necessarily be very active. The man who filled this department in our mission was very clever, but probably a great rogue, of which at least he displayed a presumptive proof, as he had lost an car, the forfeit of some former misdemeanour. The office of Charwardur or chief muleteer, is another also that requires much activity and watchfulness, to superintend properly the loading and unloading of the mules with order and dispatch. A PERSIAN DINNER. In the evening we dined with Mahomed Nebee Khan. We did not go till the Khan had sent to the Envoy to say, that the entertainment was ready for his reception, a custom always observed on such occasions. When we arrived at his tent, the same ceremonies passed as in the morning, except that we sat upon the ground, where the inflexibility of our knees rendered the position more difficult than can be described. The Khan, who seemed to commiserate the tightness of our pantaloons, begged that we would extend our legs at their full length: fear ing, however, to be rude, we chose to be uncomfortable, and to imitate their fashion as faithfully as possible; and really, with respect to my own feelings, I thought complaisance was never carried further. The guests besides ourselves, were our Mehmandar and the Persian Secretary. I preserved part of the conversation: in talking of the admirable skill with which the guns of the Nereide were fired in the re-capture of the Sylph, the Meh. mander said to the Secretary, "You ought to have kissed the lips of those guns, whose execution was so effectual; and walked around and around them, and, in gratitude for your deliverance, to have put up prayers to leaven for their preservation and prosperity." After having sat some time, kaleoons were brought in,then coffee, then kalevons, then sweet coffee (the composition already noticed of sugar and rose-water); and then kaleoons again. All this was rapidly performed, when the Khan called for dinner. On the ground before us was spread the sofra, a fine chintz cloth, which perfectly entrenched our legs, and which is used so long unchanged, that the accumulated fragments of former meals collect into a musty paste, and emit no very savory smell; but the Per. sians are content, for they say that chan ging the sofra brings ill luck. A tray was then placed before each guest; on these trays were three fine china bowls, which were filled with sherbets; two made of sweet liquors, and one of a most exquisite species of lemonade. There were be.. sides, fruits ready cut, plates with elegant little arrangements of sweetmeats aud confectionary, and smaller cups of sweet sherbet; the whole of which were placed most symmetrically, and were quite inviting, even by their appearance. In the vases of sherbet were spoons made of the pear tree, with very deep bowls, and work ed so delicately, that the long handle just slightly bent when it was carried to the month. The pillaus succeeded, three of which were placed before each two guests; one of plain rice called the chillo, one made of mutton with raisins and almonds, the other of a fowl, with rich spices and plums. To this were added various dishes with rich sauces, and over each a small tincture of sweet sauce. Their cooking, indeed, is mostly composed of sweets. The business of eating was a pleasure to the Persians, but it was misery to us. They comfortably advanced their chins close to the dishes, and commodiously scooped the rice or other victuals into their mouths, with three fingers and the thumb of their right hand; but in vain did we attempt to ap proach the dish: our tight-kneed breeches, and all the ligaments and buttons of our dress, forbade us; and we were forced to manage as well as we could, fragments of meat and rice falling through our fingers all around us. When we were all satisfied,' dinner was carried away with the same state in which it was brought the servant who officiated, dropping himself gracefully on one knee, as he carried away the trays, and passing them expertly over his head with both his hands, extended to the lacquey, who was ready behind to carry them off. We were treated with more kaleoons after dinner, and then departed to our beds, : RECEIPT OF THE FIRMAN. Whilst sitting quietly in our tents, we were hurried by the information that Kerim Khan, the bearer of the King's letter, was within a mile of our encampment. As it was necessary to receive it with every honour, we exchanged our travelling clothes for uniforms and swords, which the Persians have learnt to esteem as the dress of ceremony among Europeans. We proceeded in all haste to the Shiraz road, with the body-guard in their best clothes, with flying colours, and trumpets sounding; and had advanced scarcely a quarter of a mile, when we perceived the Khan and his party descending a neighbouring hill. The Envoy, the mehmander, and all the gentle men of the suite dismounted from their horses, and walked in form towards Kerim Khan, who, in the same manner, advanced towards us, with an attendant behind him, bearing the King's firman. When the greetings of welcome were interchanged, the Khan took the King's letter from under a handkerchief, with which it was covered, and delivered it into the Envoy's hands, saving aloud, "This is the King's firman." Sir Har ford received it with both his hands, and, having carried it respectfully to his head, placed it in his breast. We then mounted our horses, and returned to the Envoy's tent, where all parties were seated according to their respective ranks. A long exchange of compli ments then took place between the principals; "Khosh umedeed," and "bisgar khosh amedeed," (you are welcome, you are very welcome,) were repeated again and again. This is the phrase after the selam alek," which is always used in Persia, and which answers to the "khosh gueldin" of the Turks. The Turks never use the "selam alek" to a Christian, or to one who is not of the faith; but the Persians are less scropulous. Kerim Khan conveyed many flattering compliments from the King to the Envoy, and added a great number on his own part. Sir Harford called for Peer Murad Beg, his chief moonshee, to read the firman. He arrived barefooted, and stood respectfully at the end of the tent; when the firman was put into his hands, all the company stood up, and the Europeans took off their hats: Peer Murad Beg read the firman aloud, with a marked and song-like emphasis. He then delivered it to Sir Harford, and we all seated ourselves again. After this, the usual routine of smoking and coffee was performed, during which the different gentlemen in the room were presented to Kerim Khan; our mehmander officiated in this instance, and described all our different qualities and qualifications with a great deal of humour. ENTRY INTO SHIRAZ. At about two miles from the city we were met by some of the chief men of the place. It was a long contested negociation, whether they also were to pay the Envoy the compliment of dismounting; MONTHLY MAG, No. 236. nor would they have submitted to this part of the ceremony, if Kerim Khan, the bearer of the King's letter, had not rode forwards and represented to them, that, as he was sent from his Majesty to see that every respect was properly shewn to the representative of the Bri tish King, he must report their present conduct at Teheran. This hint had the desired effect, and, as their party approached, the chiefs dismounted, and I, with some gentlemen of the mission, dismounted also, and went forward to meet them: the Envoy formally expressed his determination to alight to nobody but the minister. Those who had yielded the honour thus reluctantly were, Bairam Ali Khan Cadjar, the ish agassi, or master of the ceremonies of the prince's household, and Hassan Khan Cadjar, both of the King's own family; Ahmed Beg, one of the sons of Nasr Oallah Khan, the prince's prime minister; and Mirza Zain Labadeen, the chief secretary. We proceeded slowly across the plain; the crowd and confu sion increased almost impenetrably, as we approached the city, and nothing but the strength of our mehmandar could have forced the passage. Mounted on his large powerful horse, he was in all parts, dispersing one crowd, pushing for wards another, and dealing out the most unsparing blows to those who were disinclined to obey his call. At the gate, however, notwithstanding all his exertions, the closing numbers detained our progress for above a quarter of an hour; and vollies of blows were necessary to clear the entrance. At length it was effected: the Envoy led the column, surrounded by the Persian grandees, and followed by the gentlemen of the mission in their rank, and the troop of the body guard. We passed through many streets to the Bazar-aVakeel, a long and spacious building, the shops of which were all laid out with their choicest merchandize, to display on the occasion the plenty and prosperity of the country. The bazar itself is the most splendid monument of the taste and magnificence of Kerim Khan, who administered the affairs of Persia with sovereign authority, under the name of Vakeel, or Regent, and died in 1779. The centre is marked above by a rotunda, and beneath by an inclosed platform, in the middle of which was seated the cutual, or minister of police. The trumpet of the troop, which was sounded, all through the streets, continued with AF filler . 584 ' Morier's Embassy to Persia. finer effect under the covered roofs of the bazar. As the Envoy passed, every one stood up; all knew, at least, the blows which followed any dilatoriness. After a long procession, we arrived at the house appropriated for our reception. It was neatly built of a pale yellow brick, and was very spacious, though considerably out of repair, and indeed in some parts failing into absolute ruin. We were ushered into an apartment, where a large service of sweetmeats and fruits was prepared for us. Here we sat, until we had dispatched the usual forms of a visit with the grandees who had met us, and had accompanied us thus far. The remaining part of the day was occupied in receiving other less noble visitants, and in accepting the countless presents which were sent from various parts, and which consisted for the most part of live lambs, fruits, and sweetmeats. The store of sweetmeats at last became so great, that they were distributed amongst our nu merous servants, troopers, and ferosles. Among those who succeeded the original party of our guests, was an officer dispatched by the minister, Nasr Oallah Khan, with the intimation, that he deferred till the next day the pleasure of visiting the Envoy, in the fear that at present he might be fatigued with his journey. But our more brilliant visitors were Yusuf Beg, a Georgian youth of pleasing manners, a favourite in the suite of the prince; and Abdullah Khan, who was nominated to officiate as our mehmander, till we should meet on the road an officer appointed by the King, from his capital, to assume the functions in the further progress of the mission. palace into a mosque, and the Mahomedans add, that his son was in consequence restored to health. The Mesjid Jumén is likewise an ancient structure, and there are six others of an older date than the time of Kerim Khan. Of the more modern mosques of Shiraz, the Mesjid Vakeel, the only one built by that prince, is the most beautiful. Kerim Khan begun a college, but never finished it: there were already six, one of the earliest of which (that founded by Imaun Kouli Khan) is still the most frequented. Another was added by Haushem, father of Hajee Ibrahim, the vizier of the late king; and the peish namaz and mooshtehed (chief priest of the city) built another. The trades in Persia, as in Turkey, are carried on in separate bazars, in which their shops are extended adjacent to each on both sides of the building. Before the reign of Kerim Khan, there were the bazars of the shoemakers, tinmen, crockery-ware dealers, and poulterers, and about seven others: after his time, the Bazar Saduck Khan was built; but the most extensive, as well as the most beautiful, of all, was that already described, founded by Kerim Khan hinself, and called the Bazar-a-Vakeel. Of the caravanserais, the Kaisariéh Khonéh, built by Imaun Kouli Khan, and now in rains, is the most ancient. There is another old structure, which was restored from a state of great decay, and assumed the name of its second founder Ali Khan. There are five others, of which one is called duphaugaun, or the dressers of sheep-skins for caps; another dakaukha, or dyers; another Hidoohan, where the Hindoos reside. These were all built before the accession of Kerim Khan, a date at which the splendour of Shiraz revived. He added two within the city and one beyond the walls, and others have since been erected. The same prince enriched his capital with three public baths, two within and one without the town. Four have since been raised, but there were already, be fore his reign, nineteen similar founda tions. There are several mausolea in Shiraz; the most distinguished of those without the walls is that of Hafiz: there is also, beyond the city, that of Mir Ali, son of Mirza Hamza, and grandson of the Imaum Musa. ITS ENVIRONS. In an evening ride we visited the envirous, aud, leaving the city by the Is pahan gate, crossed a bridge in very bad repair. The torrent (over which it was thrown) in the day of Chardin passed through the town; it now flows in solitude, a mournful proof of the decay of Shiraz. We came to the Mesjid Shah Mirza Hamza, a mosque erected by Ke. rim Khan, in a separate chamber of which are laid the remains of his song Abdul Rakeem Khan. In the front court is an old and majestic cypress. Although some parts of the fabric are in decay, it is still beautiful. Its walls are built of the fine brick employed in all the public works of its founder, and, indeed, in the best houses of Shiraz. Its cupola is covered with green-lacquered tiles, of a semi-circular form, which, fitted in close lines, give a symmetrical appearance of ribs to its shining surface. At the foot of the cupola, in Persian characters, are verses from the Koran, and invocations to the prophet. Continuing our ride from this mosque, we turned out of the fine high-road, which is fifty feet broad, and very even; and followed a smaller path on the right, to the Hafizeea, or the tomb of Hafiz, the most favourite of Persian poets. This monument also, in its present state at least, is alike the work of Kerim Khan. It is placed in the court of a pleasure-house, which marks the spot frequented by the poet. The building extends across an enclosure: so that the front of it, which looks towards the city, has a small court before it, and the back has another. In the centre is an open vestibule supported by four marble columns, opening on each side into neat apartments. The tomb of Hafiz is placed in the back court, at the foot of one of the cypress trees, which he planted with his own hands. It is a parallelogram with a projecting base and its superficies is carved in the most exquisite manner. One of the odes of the poet is engraved upon it, and the artist has succeeded so well, that the letters seem rather to have been formed with the finest pen than sculptured by a hard chissel. The whole is of the diaphanous marble of Tabriz, in colour a Combination of light greens, with here and there veins of red and sometimes of blue. Some of the cypresses are very large; but Aga Besheer, the present chief of the queen's eunuchs, who happened to require timber for a building, cut down two of the most magnificent trees. This is a place of great resort for the Persians, who go there to smoke kaleoons, drink coffee, and recite verses. After having done this, we proceeded forward, passing by the Chehel-ten, or forty bodies, until we came to the Haft ten, or seven bodies, both buildings erected by Kerim Khan to the memories of pious and extraordinary men, who lived there as derveishes. The Haft-ten is a pleasure house, the front of which is an inclosed garden, planted with rows of cypress and chenar trees (a species of sycamore, with a verdure like that of the plane), and interspersed with marble fountains. In its principal room, which is open in front, and supported by two marble columus, are some paintings, many of which represent the sanctity of the derveishes' lives, and the ceremonies of the self-inflicted torments of their bodies. The principal paintings are Abraham's sacrifice of Isaac, on the right; on the left, Moses keeping the flocks of Jethro. In the centre is the story of Sheik Chenan, a popular tale in Shiraz. Sheik Chenan, a Persian of the true faith, and a man of learning and consequence, fell in love with an Armenian lady of great beauty, who would not marry him, unless he changed his religion: to this he agreed. Still she would not marry him, unless he would drink wine: this scruple also he yielded. She resisted still, unless he consented to eat pork with this also he complied. Still she was coy and refused to fulfil her engagement, unless he would be contented to drive swine before her. Even this condition he accepted; and she then told him that she would not have him at all, and laughed at him for his pains. The picture represents the coquette at her window, laughing at Sheik Chenan, as he is driving his pigs before her. The wainscotting of this room is of Tabriz marble: one of the largest slabs is nine feet in length, and five feet in breadth. VISIT TO THE PRINCE. 1st January, 1809. The first day of the new year was fixed for our visit to the prince. On the day appointed, accordingly, Sir Harford, preceded by our mehmandar, and followed by the gentlemen of his mission and the body-guard, paraded through the town, as on the day of our entry, until we reached the gate of state. The streets were filled as be fore, and the bazars displayed all their wealth. The first gate introduced us immediately from the bazar into the first court of the palace. The breadth and length of this court were of large and fine proportions. The high summits of its walls were crowned with arched battlements, 2 F2 |