at all times, the florist leaving his plants for the whole day in perfect security, and with just so much air as he pleases to give them,-an advantage which will at least be duly estimated by those whose gardens are at a distance from their dwellings, or who have other occupations to attend to. As the Auricula cannot have too much air, I would observe that, during the earlier time of its growth, and whilst it is throwing up the flower-stem, it may often be advantageous or necessary to tilt up the top-lights freely, or even to remove them altogether, during fine days, in order that the stems may not become drawn; but when the flowers begin to expand, let the lights be always down, and the sliding-doors open, as before explained. Hull, 7th April, 1848. P.S. I have tried doors letting down with hinges; but prefer the sliding doors, as better fitted for regulating the quantity of air admitted. References to Cuts. A. The side-board of the frame, inner side. B. The rest nailed to the side-board to support the shelves, and graduated according to slope of the top-light. C. The shelf, formed of two pieces of strong laths, and fixed together at D. Outside view of the back-board of the frame, with its two sliding doors, The doors slide in a grooved beading of wood. The front-board of the frame NEPENTHES RAFFLESIANA. THIS very interesting species is now in full bloom at the Royal Botanic Garden, Kew, being the second time since its introduction from Singapore; the plant is about sixteen feet high, and has a cylindrical flower-spike thirteen inches long. It is placed at one end of the Orchidaceous house along with a group of other kinds, and suspended from the roof, presenting a truly beautiful collection of vegetable pitchers, such as could scarcely be conceived, unless seen in a living state. Kew, November 10th. J. H. THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. So fine and so long an autumn has done much to increase the taste for this flower. In the cottage and the nobleman's garden, out of doors or within, the Chrysanthemum has been unusually gay this season. We We will, as briefly as possible, give our readers the benefit of the information we acquired by attending the Stoke Newington and Norwich shows, as well as by visiting the principal collections about London. There were some fine specimens at Stoke Newington, both growing and in a cut state; yet, generally, the plants at Norwich were superior, more dwarf and healthy, and altogether better grown, with their dark green foliage and abundant bloom. believe that the cuttings of these plants were put in about the first week in June; fine healthy shoots were selected, placed in gentle heat, and not allowed to flag, or in any part of their after-growth to stand still. Six cuttings, each in small pots, when struck were divided into three, and potted off into a 4-inch size, thus giving two plants to a pot. These plants were then grown in the most open part of the garden, and placed at a good distance from each other in all their stages of growth, and never allowed to suffer for want of water, in fact never allowed to get dry. Liquid manure was used when the pots had become full of roots. The plants required stopping once only, about three weeks after they had been potted off. For this part of their culture a certain guide is, when the roots have tolerably filled the pots, and the plants have swollen well, then take a good piece off, and from four to six shoots will break; whereas if topped in a young state, by merely pinching out the top, two eyes will be more likely to break than more. Two plants thus grown together will form a fine bush, if repotted once or twice when they require it. It will be seen that the principal things to bear in mind are, not to put the cuttings in too soon, and to select such as are stout and fine, and to keep them well at work throughout their after-growth. We need scarcely add that the Chrysanthemum luxuriates in strong, rich soil. Instead of reporting both the Norwich and Stoke Newington shows, we will give our readers a descriptive list of the best varieties seen at both, adding a few new ones not so well known. Florie, rosy lilac. Goliath, blush, very large. King of Crimsons, deep crimson. L'Ange Gardien, white, good habit. and compact, good habit. Madame Miellez, blush. Nonpareil, large lilac, free bloomer; fine showy variety. Nelson, rose. Nancy de Sarmet, white, anemone flowered centre; similar to Fleur de Marie, but has only one row of guard-petals. Pilot, deep pink, or rose. Pharamond, orange-crimson, large but loose. Pluton, brown-crimson, rather small. Phidias (Salter), shaded rose, fine shape; one of the best. Pompon d'Or, nankeen, good petal. Pomponette, orange, small compact flower. Pius IX., orange-crimson, bronze tip, fine. Polar Star, white, large and showy, Queen of Gipsies, orange, good. Reine des Belges, blush, good shape, Rigolette, orange-salmon, large. Rose et Blanche, pale lilac, delicate, pretty. Superb Clustered Yellow, large gold Standard, crimson, fine shape, early. Strictum, white, with purple stripes. Unique, white, yellow centre, compact. Vesta, white, fine shape, and good in Those who procure or possess the above will have a first-rate collection. The quilled varieties are thought but little of now; we never liked them. TRANSPLANTING ROSES. I READ with much pleasure the remarks on Roses by my esteemed friend Mr. Rivers, which appear from time to time in the Florist. In the last number, however, he gives me credit for assertions which, I believe, I have never made. The words to which I allude are these: "I think it is Mr. W. Paul who tells us (but I quote from memory), that to remove a Rose once is to injure its growth, to do so twice is a still greater injury." Mr. R. then proceeds to disprove the accuracy of this statement. But do not let me be misunderstood; I do not charge Mr. Rivers with an intentional misquotation—indeed his remarks are qualified with "I quote from memory"-but the evident bearing of the reasoning is, if uncontradicted, against the soundness of the opinions given in the Rose-Garden. If any of your readers feel sufficiently interested in the matter to refer to p. 132, division II. of the Rose-Garden, they will find the passage to stand thus: "The practice of removing them (Tea-scented Roses) from the ground for protection during winter, and again transferring them to their places in the rosarium in spring, cannot be too highly deprecated." Then follows the passage alluded to: "To remove a plant once endangers its growth and perfect flowering the first year, and to remove it twice more than doubles the risk of failure.' Το this opinion I still firmly adhere. I think your scientific readers will say, theoretically it is true; and repeated experiments satisfy me that it is true in practice also. Nurseries, Cheshunt, Herts. وو W. PAUL. ON GLADIOLI. I HAVE read Mr. Brown's excellent article on this subject in your last Number with much pleasure, and I do not doubt that it will tend to bring these fine plants more into notice. I beg, however, to state, that I do not consider them all to be "perfectly hardy;" experience has satisfied me to the contrary, especially as respects the class called early-flowering varieties, or, in other words, the Cardinalis section, which includes by far the most numerous, and, I may say, the most beautiful of the tribe. The reason why they are not hardy, is their tendency to early growth; consequently, if planted in the open ground unprotected, they would be killed by frost. Many of the varieties in this division are in a growing state early in November, and all of them are in action in February; therefore I cannot agree with Mr. Brown as to their being hardy. If their growth could be retarded by any means, in order that they might be planted about March, with Gandavensis, psittacinus, floribundus, and their varieties, we might consider them to be hardy. And here lies the value of hybridisation; we want crosses of Gandavensis with Cardinalis, or any of its varieties, and then I have no doubt they would be hardy. The colours and markings of the latter are also much wanted in the habit of Gandavensis and floribundus and its allies; but the question is, how to get them? it has puzzled the hybridist hitherto; and if we are to believe Dr. Herbert's statement, which deserves great weight, the thing has not been effected. My mode of managing the early-flowering kinds is, to pot them as they shew symptoms of growth, and plunge them in a cold frame, merely keeping the frost from them. I plant them out in May, in a bed composed of light rich soil, where they continue flowering for a considerable time, and produce a fine display. I subjoin a list of the best sorts, selected from about sixty varieties : The best dark varieties are, Semiramis, Rex rubrorum, and Insignis. The best lights, or whites, are, Incomparabilis, Queen Victoria, La Princesse, Princeps, and Invincible. And the best hardy kinds, Gandavensis, Gandavensis coccinus, Tamæsus, Polystachia, Vernalis spicatus, and Albicans roseus. NEW PLANTS. CLERODENDRON BETHUNEANUM. This fine species of Clerodendron is equal in beauty to any that are at present in cultivation. It is a large-growing plant, with a panicle of crimson-coloured flowers, forming a pyramidal bunch two to three feet long. It is a native of Borneo, and requires stove heat. Figured in Botanical Magazine, from Messrs. Lucombe, Pince, and Co., Exeter. BRACHYSEMA APHYLLUM. A pretty greenhouse plant, with pea-shaped flower, of a deep red colour; a native of Western Australia. Figured in Botanical Magazine for December, but not yet introduced. Seeds are sown here. TABERNÆMONTANA LONGIFlora. An erect branching stove shrub, with large white or cream-coloured flowers; a native of the tropics. Figured in Botanical Magazine, from Messrs. Lucombe, Pince, and Co., Exeter. IXORA LAXIFLORA. A showy stove shrub, growing from three to four feet high; calyx deep red; corolla white, tinged with pink. This species is well worth cultivation; the flowers are sweet-scented. Its native country is Java. Figured in the same work, from the same establishment. BIGONIA CINNABARINA. One of the handsomest of the genus, having bright red-coloured foot-stalks, and large cinnabar-coloured flowers. It is a tuberousrooted plant, and will therefore require to be kept all but absolutely dry during winter. It is a native of Bolivia. Figured in Botanical Magazine, from Messrs. Henderson's, Pine-apple Place. ESPELETIA ARGENTEA. A very ornamental greenhouse plant; the leaves are narrow, lanceolate, and densely silky on both sides, forming a crown of dense spreading leaves, similar to those of an aloe; flowers yellow, inclining to brown. It is a native of New Grenada, where it grows about five feet high. Figured in the same work, from the Duchess Dowager of Northumberland's, Sion. WAILESIA PICTA. A rather pretty species of Orchid, with the habit of a Vanda or Angræcum; flowers pale yellow, spotted with crimson; a native of Malacca. Figured from Chatsworth in Botanical Magazine. ANGURIA MAKOYANA. A perennial plant, of the cucumber tribe; flower of a rich vermilion colour. Native country unknown; it was introduced from Liege by Messrs. Knight and Perry, Exotic Nursery, Chelsea, where it flowered, and was from there figured. ADAMIA VERSIColor. A dwarf greenhouse shrub, something similar to Hydrangea japonica, having a corymbose head of blue flowers nearly one foot in diameter. It is a native of China. Figured from Chatsworth. SCHOMBURGKIA TIBICINIS, variety GRANDIFLORA. The leaves of this variety are shorter, more ovate, flowers larger, and much brighter in colour than Schomburgkia tibicinis; probably it may be a more perfect state of the plant. It was figured from these gardens; and was imported from Honduras, where the hollow stems are used by the natives as horns or trumpets. CYCNOCHES BARBATUM. This singular and handsome Orchid was imported from Costa Rica, and is in the collection of Mrs. Lawrence of Ealing Park, from which it was figured in Botanical Magazine. It very much resembles Gongora |