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It is, of course, impossible that things which are offensive to Eng his views of every subject should lish nationality; but we may well be just; and we find, accordingly, endure, that, where so much is said that many misconceptions relating in our favour, some blame should be to laws, juries, and government, are mingled; and, at any rate, a clear to be found in every part of his and sensible view of the manners of work; and when he compares a cer- Europe, as it may tend to reconcile tain honourable house to two parties the nations of the east to a preponof parroquets, scolding on opposite derance, which must be chiefly supmango trees, it is evident that he ported by opinion, is of the greatest describes from fancy. But though advantage to the country which has he is often misinformed, he is sel. the greatest stake there. dom absurd; and, in truth, we are Of Paris, which the author next not sure whether his journal would visited, as compared to London, we not be more entertaining, if it had have already given his sentiments; more of the oriental leaven. The but it is fair to own, that he ex. following observation, however, may presses, in pretty strong terms, his be excepted from this stigma. He is preference of French to English speaking of an unfortunate class of politeness. He had complained be. females, whom he considers as more fore of our aversion to taking any numerous in London than the truth, trouble, even for a friend; and in this we believe, will warrant.
respect he says our neighbours are
very superiour “ to the irritable and “ The conduct of these women is ren- surly Englishman,” On the whole, dered still more blamable, by their bir.
however, he did not like a residence ing lodgings in, or frequenting streets which, from their names, ought only to be among them, and complains heavily the abode of virtue and religion; for in. of their idle, slovenly, and trifling stance, Providence street, Modest habits, which he thinks will effeccourt, St. James's street,' 'St. Mar- tually prevent their gaining a supe. tin's lane,' and 'St. Paul's Church yard.' riority over their insular neighbours. The first of these is one of the epithets of The wom
The women, too, he does not like: God, the second implies virtue, and the others are named after the holy apostles
“ They were painted to an excessive of the blessed Messiah. Then there is degree, were very forward, and
Queen Anne street,' and Charlotte great talkers.” Amorous as he constreet;' the one named after the greatest, fesses himself by nature to be, and the other after the best of queens. I, how easily affected at the sight of beauty, cver, think that the persons who let the
he never met with a Frenchwoman lodgings are more reprehensible than the
who interested him. In the English unfortunate women themselves.” Vol. ii. pp. 45, 46.
charge des affaires then at Paris, he
seems, if his report is correct, to His summary of the last war, and have had a tolerable specimen of of the politicks of Europe, though the indolence, nonchalance, and utnot free from errour, is really, con- ter want of information, which too sidering his situation, extraordinary; often characterize the young men and we rejoice that such an account, who fill that important office. By from an impartial quarter, of British his advice he was persuaded to heroism by land and sea, exists in abandon the usual road to Constanthe universal language of the East. tinople, through Germany and HunIt would be, in our opinion, an ob. gary, for the more tedious course of ject worthy of an enlightened po. Italy and the Mediterranean. 'The licy, by the aid of the press, to give ever-waking eye, which is turned so currency in every possible manner wistfully towards the cast, did not to the original, both in Persia and overlook our tourist; the scavans, Hindoostan. There are some few Langlais and De Sacy, were employed to cultivate his acquaintance; notice, or his own, are the shrines and he received repeated invitations and tombs of saints on the road. from Talleyrand, and at length from Perhaps he was a little anxious to Buonaparte. Indisposition, however, efface, at the sepulchre of Ali, the prevented his accepting them, and guilt of his compliances with infidel he passed on by Lyons and Avignon customs, on the banks of the Thames to Marseilles. During this journey and the Liffey. He curses the Turks he noticed the famous bridge of St. heartily for hereticks and soonys; Esprit, as having been built by order and notices a minaret which shakes of one of the Cesars; and in the and trembles at the name of Ali, diligence, between Avignon and while it remains immovable by all Marseilles, witnessed a kind of bru- possible mention of Omar. There tality in his fellow passengers to a are, however, many particulars in handsome Egyptian girl who was in this part of his work, worth the attenthe coach, which it is painful to tion of future travellers, who may conceive possible in any country, take this little frequented route; and and which may be safely pronounced we have not yet seen a more satispeculiar to France. Not content with factory account than is here given the most licentious freedoms, they of the Vahabies. The founder of this even snatched his cane, and struck powerful sect, Abdul Vechab, it is her several severe blows with it. well known, forbad all worship of Surely this was enough to make Abu Mohammed, and all reverence to Taleb recall his assertion of the su- tombs and shrines as idolatrous, and periority of French politeness and giving partners to God. He was, like delicacy.
the original impostor of Arabia, a Genoa, Leghorn, and Malta, are warlike fanatick; and though his son in their turn described. At the first Mohammed, to whom he transmitof these places he gives us a natural ted his authority, is blind, he is ably testimony in favour of Italian mu- supported by an adopted brother of sick. Leghorn he did not like, and his father's, named Abd al Aziz, an prays that “the curse of God may extraordinary man, of gigantick sta. light on such a city and such a peo- ture, and, though eighty years old, ple.”
possessing all the vigour of youth, At Constantinople he only found which he predicts he shall retain, four praiseworthy institutions; “ the till the Vahaby religion is perfectly boats” " the horses kept for hire" established over Arabia.
“the publick fountains”-and “the several bazars for merchandise.” “ Although the Vahabies have collected Of the Turks he says but little; his immense wealth, they still retain the stay in Constantinople was short. greatest simplicity of manners, and mode
ration in their desires. They sit down on and they and the Persians have no the ground without ceremony, content liking for each other. He allows themselves with a few dates for their food, them, however, many amiable qua- and a coarse large cloak serves them for lities; and, what is singular, does clothing and bed, for two or three years. not consider the power of their Sul
breed, of well known pedigrees; none of tan as absolute.
which will tbcy permit to be taken out of The relation of his journey by
their country." vol. ii. pp. 332, 333. Amasia, Diarbekir, Mousul and Bagdad, is very brief, and not par The successes and sacrilege of ticularly interesting:-he was now this “ wicked tribe” grievously of among nations whose manners and fend Abu Taleb, and he calls on the faith were familiar to his country. Sultan and the Shah to unite in men; and the only things which he repressing them. Both Sultan and appears to consider as worth their Shah, however, have need, as ir
should seem, themselves to tremble Taleb's oriental readers, he rightly before them; and “the least of the judged would be tedious to those · servants of God” (so this Eastern who peruse him in Europe. To this . Pontiff styles himself) has written to merit of fidelity, which, from Mr. both these monarchs, denouncing, Stewart's character, we are fully “in the name of God the compas- disposed to take for granted, may be sionate and merciful," fire and added the praise of an easy, natural, sword, and destruction on them and English style, which makes, on the their impenitent subjects.
whole, the Travels of Abu Taleb What part they may yet be des. Khan not only a curious, but a very tined to perform, is only known to agreeable present to the western that wisdom, which seems to have world, for which we owe no trifling set apart the portion of the world obligation to his ingenious transla. where they are placed, as the theatre tor. To the work itself, indeed, we of the most important scenes and the cannot help attaching a stronger most singular revolutions. At Bus. interest, than the apparent abilities serah, Abu Taleb quarrelled with of Abu Taleb claim. It is the first the English resident, iind took a description of European manners singular method of revenge, by and character, which has, as far as << writing a satirical poem on him," we know, appeared in an oriental and repeating some of the lines in language; and if sufficient circulation his hearing. On the other hand, the be once given to this production of Englishman retorted, perhaps with a Persian, and a descendant of Mo. reason, that Abu Taleb was spoilt hammed svol. ii. p. 245.) it is impos. 6 by the luxury and attentions of sible, from the novelty, and peculiar London, and that it was now impos- interest of the subject, that it should sible to please him." These bick- not become a common and fashionerings, after being carried on be able study among the polite and tween jest and earnest some time, learned of those climates. We have were terminated by his departure already hinted, that to England this for Bombay. After a pleasant resi- must be advantageous; but we do dence of some months in that island, not stop here. When we consider and an agreeable voyage in one of the other circumstances of the east, the Company's vessels, on the even. it is probable that the improvements ing of the 15th Rubby Assany, 1218, and knowledge thus revealed in part, corresponding with the 4th of Au- no longer coming under the susgust, 1803, he landed safely in Cal. picious garb of the report of an ene. cutta, and returned thanks to God my and a conqueror, will excitė a for his preservation and safe return spirit of imitation among those, who to his native shores."
before considered the Europeans a6 We have been hitherto so much a race of warlike savages. One engrossed with Abu Taleb himself, effect will perhaps speedily follow, as to have no opportunity of men- that other orientals will pursue the tioning Mr. Stewart, to whom we example of Abu Taleb in visiting are obliged for these travels in their countries, where, though there are English dress. He assures us, in the giants,” there are no man-eaters; preface, that they are as literally where, though the sheep are without translated as the nature of the two « broad tails," the mutton is confeslanguages will allow, and that he sedly tolerable; and though the men has only omitted some part of the are « sellers of wine,” the women poetry, and two discussions, one on are stately as the trees of Paradise. anatomy, and the other on the con- From such intercourse, goodwill struction of a hot-house, which, must follow, and where a European though full of information to Abu is now considered as accursed, he will not, in future, want protectors tachment to his own peculiar tenets; or imitators. There is a possibility there is a chance, which (if not of even greater advantages. When spoiled by indiscreet zeal on the one we witness, as in the present tour, hand, or selfish indifference on the the reverence with which a Mussul. other) will grow stronger every day, man has learnt to regard the foun- that the cause of religion, as well as der of our religion; and when we that of civilisation, may profit by our consider that internal divisions are, connexions with Asia. at this moment, weakening his at.
FROM THE MONTHLY REVIEW.
Voyage en Grèce fait dans les Années 1803, 1804, &c. i. e. Travels in Greece, performed in
the Years 1803 and 1804, by J. L. S. BARTHOLDY; containing Details on the Mode of Travelling in Greece and the Archipelago; a Description of the Valley of Tempe; a Delineation of the most remarkable Situations in Greece and the Levant; a View of the Condition of Turkey, and of the State of Civilisation among the modern Greeks; a Journey from Negropont into several Parts of Thessaly, in 1803; and an Account of the War of the Inhabitants of the District of Souly against Ali Vizir. Translated from the German by A. du C. 2 vols. 8 vo. pp. 565. Paris. Price 11. 48.
SINCE Switzerland, Italy, and we believe, is the first work on Sicily, the countries which formerly Greece which has fallen into our engaged the attention of tourists, hands; and we must acknowledge have been so frequently visited, and that its author has discovered no so fully described, the traveller who small share of the national phlegm, is ambitious of novelty must direct in his manner of passing sentence his steps elsewhere. Greece has ac. on the present inhabitants of that cordingly become of late years an celebrated country. We find here object of great attraction. Although none of those ardent effusions which it is devoid of that interest arising might be expected to be poured forth from modern works of art, which on treading the soil of Socrates and rendered Italy so inviting, and is Epaminondas;--none of those flatinferiour to Switzerland in the stu. tering resemblances between the pendous objects of nature, it has, modern Greeks and their ancestors, potwithstanding, a powerful claim on which kindled the imagination, and the attention of the traveller, from drew forth the eloquent encomiums the variety of its natural beauties; of Mons. Guys. Every thing from the from the vestiges, still apparent, of pen of M. BARTHOLDY bears the its ancient grandeur; and, above all, stamp of unadorned reality, of deli. from the classick recollections which berate observation, and of a cold even a distant prospect of its shores prudence which nothing can shake cannot fail to revive. Great Britain from its fixed purpose. He has not bas long been noted for sending forth given his narrative in the form of a travellers, and her sons of the pre- journal, but has preferred the plan sent age have taken the lead in of a series of essays. He begins with visiting Greece, in the same manner a nunber of general observations on as their countrymen, above half a the manner of travelling, and on the Century ago, were among the first to nature of the accommodations in climb the glaciers of Savoy. . Greece, both in diet and lodging.
Of German travellers, the present, We are next presented with a long
description of the valley, or rather by a Tartar. These people are full of defie, of Tempe; which, although activity, perfectly acquainted with the
E country, and bave a certain degree of enclosed by lofty mountains, did not country, an
authority, from frequently appearing in appear to our traveller so rich in
the capacity of state-messengers. It is well picturesque scenery as the magnifi- known that they are not born in Tartary, cent representations of the poets and that their designation of Tartar is would lead him to imagine. From merely nominal. The posts in Greece are Tempe, he proceeds to Asia Minor; very long, generally from twenty to thirty and in enumerating
ingi miles: but, if a traveller understands the its principal
way of stimulating his guide's pace, he cities, he makes a few brief allu
gels on rapidly. The accommodations for sions to the events of its ancient travelling in Greece are very bad. Prohistory. After having passed the Ar visions are by no means abundant. Mutton chipelago, and given a detail of the and poultry are the most frequent arti, scenery and climate of the chief cles of diet; oil is served up instead of
butter; rice also is common. In the season
are likewise to be found eggs, honey, account of which, he introduces a dried figs, and the various fruits belong. description of the remains of the ing to warm climates, such as raisins, place of publick assembly for the pomegranates, oranges, and apples. Sel. citizens; and the volume is con dom cherries, plums, or pears; and never cluded by a view of the scanty ves.
gooseberries or strawberries. The Greek
and Turkish cookery has great varieties, tiges of Mycenæ, with an essay on
on but is too much loaded with spices and the private habits of the Turks. fat. We seldom see a solid joint of meat This people, he thinks, we judge too on their tables: but every thing is hashed harshly; and he takes no small pains in small pieces, and boiled to rags, which to relieve them from a portion of the suits very well with their mode of eating odium which is attached to their without either knife or fork. If the natives character. We extract the passages
happen to use these instruments at any
time for the sake of pleasing Europeans, relative to travelling, and give them
they are observed to forget themselves as a favourable specimen of the every moment, and to substitute their book:
fingers. As to tables, none are to be found
in the Levant, unless it should acciden“ We no longer find any carriage-roads tally happen that one had been imported. in Greece. Those which are mentioned by People even write on their knees. Neither the ancients are generally in such a state, have they any chairs, but they sit on in the present day, that it is difficult to couches placed all round the room. When imagine how a carriage can ever have the dinner hour arrives, a servant brings rolled over them. We often meet also in a stool, which he places with the feet with such awkward passes, that a prudent upwards; and a round tin plate, put on the traveller will get off his horse, which is top of the stool, makes the table. It stands particularly the case near Delphos, be about a foot from the ground; and in the tween Scyon, Neinea, and Argos; and on way in which they sit, the guests are just the sacred road from Athens to Eleusis. within reach of the dishes. Cushions are At the same time, all these quarters ex. placed around, and every one sits down, hibit occasional traces of the old roads. and crosses bis legs. The servant ther To travel on foot is not advisable, because brings in a long, narrow table-cloth, which the inhabitants, and particularly the he lays round the table, and of which each Turks, would take such a traveller either guest appropriates the part that is oppofor a beggar or for a person wholly out of site to him. Next comes bread cut in small his senses; so that the only alternative is pieces, somewhat in the way in which we to go on horseback. It is common for inex. cut it for children; each person takes perienced travellers to take as a guard twenty or thirty slices, and places thema the janissaries of their respective consuls before him. The dishes are nert brought or ministers: but these janissaries are in, one by one, generally without a spoon, much despised by the Turks at large, on even when there is sauce, in which the account of their frequent intercourse with custom is to dip the bread; and every Christians; and they have seldom much person puts his hand in the dish, and takes courage, but a great portion of selfishness. out whatever piece he likes. The most It is a far better way to be accompanied amusing sight is in the case of poultry.