CHAPTER XII. A ROYAL VISIT. Exploring rides-A state visit-Culinary business-Arrival of the Sultan and suite Procession of boats-Armed attendants-A royal salute— Visit to the ship-Use of dogs aboard-Amusements ashore-Eastern singing-A royal interpreter-Dress of the ladies-Influence of the women-An early rising Sultana-Marine amusements-Departure -Journey to Bu'ut Dahau-Hospitality of the mountaineers-Ascent -Fine views from the top-Flowers and insects—A Hadji's tradition -Siassi Island-A Horned Steed-Sandakan-Pulo Bahalatolois. WHEN we started from Labuan it was expected that the whole voyage to and from Sulu would be made in fifteen days. On our arrival here, however, the expected cargo was not ready, and it was found that another fortnight must elapse ere we could leave. This extra time I spent in riding over the island in every direction, and I was rewarded by specimens of plants and birds which had never reached Europe before. One night on my return to the ship for dinner, I was delighted to hear that the Sultan had arranged to pay a State visit to Meimbong, and that he had signified his intention of coming on board, this being indeed one of the principal reasons of his visit. It had been arranged that he and his suite would remain in the harbour for one night, sleeping in "Peah's "house, the largest and most comfortable in the place. Mr. Cowie at once resolved to decorate the ship, and also to fire a salute from the guns on board, as he had an Armstrong amidships and two iron muzzle-loaders forward. The visit was to be made in two days' time, and so there was plenty of time for preparations, and the little wharf assumed an appearance of bustle and activity I had never seen there before. A fine young bullock was slaughtered by "Peah," and his slave girls were as busy as bees in the little kitchen on the end of the pile jetty, preparing food and sweetmeats for the visitors. Edible swallows' nests, and the finest and fattest of sea-slugs were placed in bowls of water to soak, while rice was cleaned in large quantities, and freshlycaught fish were brought in alive and retained in tubs of sea-water until required. Enormous brass betel-boxes were cleaned and replenished with fresh lime and nuts, and the mountaineers brought down the largest and freshest of pepper or sirri leaves and fruits on the morning of the visit. Inside the private apartments finelyworked mats and embroidered cushions were placed for the royal guests. Business seemed entirely suspended for the time, and both Chinese and Sulus were evidently looking forward to a general holiday. On board, the sailors had made the little Far East nice and tidy, the bunting of all colours and signal halyards were got into order, and the mate sacrificed his old flannel shirts to make bags for the powder with which the salute was to be fired. About eight o'clock on the appointed day a shot was fired from the Armstrong, and we were all surprised at the long rolling echo and reverberation it made among the hills. About ten the Sultan and Sultana with their entire suite and numbers of Sulus who formed a sort of irregular guard of honour, arrived at Meimbong a gay cavalcade, the brightly-embroidered jackets of the nobles, and the crimson, blue, and yellow petticoats of the ladies being very effective in the bright sunshine, the whole CH. XII,] The Sultan's Boat. 225 effect being again heightened by the flashing of numerous spears. Filing through the narrow gate in the stockade, they waited for some minutes ere the boats were quite ready, and then embarked, a movement which occupied nearly half an hour. Knowing that the boats would block up the river when they eventually started, we returned to the ship, from which an excellent view of the procession of boats was obtained as they crossed the harbour to reach the houses on the wharf. The sight was extremely bright and pretty as the boats, with their gaily attired occupants, emerged from the mouth of the river and came across the bay. The Sultan's boat was first, and the fat old Commander-in-Chief of the forces sat on the prow, paddle in hand, to steer clear of all impediments. Next came the Sultana and her chief ladies in a larger boat, two or three richly embroidered umbrellas being held aloft, while her infant son and nurse came along in a third boat with numerous attendants, and overshadowed by a splendid yellow silk three storied umbrella, decorated with streamers to steady it, each of these last being in the hands of a dusky slave. The following boats, of which there were about a dozen, carried the attendant nobles, headmen, minor ladies of the harem, and the necessary attendants or slaves. Besides these there was, of course, quite a crowd of natives in outrigged boats and canoes of all sizes. His Highness landed on the "jimbatan," and stood to watch the landing of the Sultana and her suite. He was surrounded by his people, all being, as is usual here always, armed. One man carried a heavy Lanun sword, while two others carried loaded revolvers in a very awkward manner. His son, Datu Mahomed, came on board as soon as he landed, and asked Mr. Cowie not to fire the salute until the ladies had retired indoors. He Q |