and on the other side, the prairie of this Delta. About 4 P. M., arrived at Soulinha, a small Greek looking town, with a lazaretto at the mouth on the Black Sea: several wrecks were lying there. Here is a dangerous bar, and often shallow; luckily there were thirteen feet of water upon it, and we bounded off into the grievous Euxine. In our fine weather, there was no more motion, than upon one of our Lakes; but many of the passengers were sick. Steamed all night, weather continuing fine. Near Tulchna, the Lieutenant General Jokmus, Pacha of Three Provinces, came on board, and continued in our company, staying at the same house at Pera. He is a native of Hamburgh, of great intelligence, speaking several languages, and achieved his great position here by his military skill in the Wars of Syria. He is a soldier of fortune and entered the Sultan's service to re-organize the army on the European system, and has been elevated to the highest official rank short of the Cabinet. He was returning from a tour in the Balkan; and had been recently on a visit to the ruins of Nineveh, in company with Mr. Layard, whose researches he had greatly assisted. His conversation was exceedingly interesting; and I shall never forget his commanding military appearance, gleaming eye and many personal attentions.

25TH.-About breakfast time, the bold Headlands and rocky cliffs of the Gulf of Varna rose in sight. On a bold promontory was a ruin of a Byzantine Church, indistinct, and not well preserved. About 11 A. M., reached Varna; the Turkish boats came alongside, and I went on shore. A pic

turesque group of Turks was on the Quay. Some Divans and Buffalos in the street. New Turkish houses were going up; grand looking fellows paraded the street, which was lined with Bazaar-like shops, with their cross-legged merchants; it was odd to see the scribes write on their knees. The town is beautifully situated on several hills, with many Minarets; and the houses are clean and handsome. The Pacha's Palace at the lower extremity, is a grand structure; but the streets are unpaved and dirty; bought some delicious grapes, the merchant selling them by weight; and after half an hour's visit, returned on board and steamed all night.

26TH.-Was on deck early watching for the Bosphorus, and about 9 A. M., passed the Fortresses, and the Symplegades, the entrance, and then for twenty miles, a two hours' sail, passed between coasts lined with beautiful villages, Summer houses of the rich and foreigners, and ambassadors, Castles, Forts, and Kiosks, the magnificent new Palaces of the Sultan, in an uninterrupted succession, until about 11 A. M., Seraglio Point, the domes and minarets of St. Sophia, and the great towering mass of Stamboul rose in sight. We anchored near Leander's Tower, and rowed over to Tophana in a Caique, and then to Mad. Guiseppini's Pension, on the Petit Champ des Morts at Pera. Afternoon wrote letters, and called on Mr. Porter, the Consul and Secretary of Legation, U. S. Evening rainy; at home.

27TH.-Letters mailed to-day. After dejeuner, spent some three hours in the Bazaars; entered first the Drug Ba

zaar; which is large, well built, and handsome; then at some distance is the other, the Great Bazaar. The goods are all exposed before the cross-legged merchants, the alleys are interminable, and contain apparently all kinds of goods. It was a rare sight. The veiled Turkish women were shopping; many of the Sultanas drove through in their gilt carriages, with Nubian attendants at their sides. It is semi-barbarous, perhaps, but purely Oriental; Armenians seemed to prevail in some, and Turks in other streets. Then took a fine Caique and rowed over to Seraglio Point; had no Firman yet, and was not admitted, and so back to Tophana, a most lovely sail; mounted an Arabian and rode home; called again on Mr. Porter. Dr. Smith, of Charleston, just appointed State Geologist here called on me in the evening.

28TH.-On my way down to Galata, to see Mr. Glavanicz, met a procession of school children, young, and gaily dressed, with their Turkish masters, singing together not unpleasantly, escorting two boys who for the first time entered school. These were richly dressed, and on horseback. I followed them to the door; on arriving they drew up in a line, a party of women and Nubians came out to receive them and responded to the chant; they then were led in first to be baptised, &c. Took a Caique at Issim Bacha, for a row on the Golden Horn. Going up you pass on the right the Dock-Yards of the Sultan, which are very extensive; a large Iron War Steamer was upon the Stocks, with some other vessels, and a great many hulks. Opposite was lying an exquisite Screw

177

Iron Steamer just bought in England; then passed the Palace of the Capudan Pacha, the new Marine College beautifully situated, then Casernes, Cannon and Bomb Foundries, and opposite is the great Fez factory. The view of the City and suburbs is delightful; the river winding frequently; at last came to the Summer Palace, and soon after to the Women's Palace, all in the beautiful valley of the Sweet Waters of Europe. The fine hills here retreat into a basin form; the rich plain is the garden or promenade. The position is lovely. The Palaces are not very handsome. The Sultan only lives here in May, for a short time; but near the Women's Palace is an exquisite Marble Pavillion, circular, with gilt ceilings. In front are many marble cascades and fountains, the water coming in sheets, terrace like, broad and beautiful, from some distance. Some of the awkward troops were being drilled in front of the Palace, on a fine green. Going down, as the river widens, and you get out of the basin of Hills, the City rises upon the eye like enchantment. It stands as it were, a great forest of gardens. Palaces, Mosques, and Minarets springing out of this beautiful sea; an Aladdin Creation. Nothing can approach its glorious aspect. Of course you see the straggling Frank Towns, and are surrounded with multitudes of Caiques; at sunset enjoyed a beautiful view from the Cemetery near our house, The Mosques, Minarets and Towers of Stamboul were painted out on a ground of rich gold; and we heard the Muezzin calling to prayer, making his tour of the little gallery upon a neighboring Minaret. In the evening took tea with

174

Dr. Smith; some half dozen were there; smoked Persian Narguille and Turkish pipes. Mr. Churchill, a young Turk, educated at the London University, and Editor of the Turkish Government Paper, was there; in the course of conversation it was remarked that the present revenue of the Empire is seventeen millions sterling, and expense fifteen; and that bribery is still common; the Pachas plunder the revenue as usual, otherwise the Government would receive far more; Salaries, though large, of the employees, are slow, and irregular; the Sultan is now but twenty-four years of age, just learning French. £250,000 sterling have been appropriated for a road to Adrianople.

*

*

On Nov. 10th. 1847, one of my fellow passengers on board the French Mail Steamer Mentor, from Constantinople to Malta, was the General Cordova, who, after having resided as the Ambassador of Spain for fourteen years. at the Sublime Porte, had the previous day taken his audience of leave to return to a seat in the Privy Council of Spain. In the course of conversation he stated to me that the salaries of the Turkish Government were then as follows:

The pay of the common Soldier is 30 paras per day-twenty-five Piastres being about equal to $1,00.

I may here also be excused for adding that another of my fellow passengers on board of the Mentor, whom also I had the pleasure to accompany to the United States, was Mr. Jean de Nottbeck, who held the official post of Chef du Bureau Economique in the Ministry of Demesues at St. Petersburgh, under the Imperial Government. This gentleman had recently arrived at Constantinople on his return from an official tour, and there re