is high as a mountain, and it requires an effort to look to the top of it. Here comes a tram-car, and I run to the top of it and go out the Great Western Road, lined with solid buildings of stone from four to eight stories high. Now we pass some fine churches with tall and slender spires of cut stone. Now we cross the Kelvin river and see many fine residences lining the broad thoroughfare. Yonder is Glasgow University, an extensive building, with six acres of floors. A new spire is being built upon its lofty tower which pierces the heavens two hundred and eighty feet above the pavement. Yonder, on the hill, is the asylum, a neat, solid and large building. Yonder they are preparing buildings for the exhibition of 1888. Passing along the streets of Glasgow, I saw so many familiar names that I wrote down a few as follows: Weir, McCulloch, Graham, MacFarlane, Hutchison, Dick, Kerr, French, Grant, Gilchrist, Cameron, Ferguson, Easton, Stuart, Taggart, Machell, Campbell, Black, Hillard, Wilson, Buchannan, Allen, etc. Glasgow claims to be next in importance to London in the British Isles, in business and population. I went to St. Enoch's great stone station, where ponderous trains of merchandise and passengers were coming and going, while the tumultuous roar of nations rolls up on every hand. Ambition, competition, pride and poverty are mighty levers to keep men and nations from stagnation. Having some time to wait here, I found a somewhat quiet corner and wrote a letter to the Telephone. Now the train is nearly ready to start for Greenock. Twenty-four miles for nine pence! There is the work of competition. In an hour I am in old Greenock, in company with A. Swan, Jr. CHAPTER XXIX. SCOTLAND: GREENOCK AND PAISLEY. GREENOCK-SHIPS AND SUGAR-THE CLYDE-A MORNING WALK MOUNTAIN PEAKS-FAIRY LANDS LOOKING DOWN ON GREENOCK-SCENE UNSURPASSED—AJAX— -TANNAHILL-WILSON-KILBARCHAN-MOVING TO WARD DUMFRIES. Greenock is on the Clyde, in Scotland, about twenty-two miles west from Glasgow. Its population is about eighty thousand, and it is noted for ship building and sugar refining. The Clyde is an arm of the sea which winds among the mountains, making many bays, lakes, or lagoons, as they are variously called, or, rather, lochs here. The mountains are abrupt, rugged and irregular, and the sea winds in and around their base, where here and there a village or town claims a foothold between the waters and the hills, all of which gives a picturesque and romantic aspect. As above mentioned, Greenock is located on the Clyde, where there is a comparatively level place, but the city has stretched out upon and up the surrounding hillsides. Having a letter from Superintendent Charles Graham, of Scranton, to Mr. Andrew Swan, I called upon the Swans and remained with them all night, and on the following morning Mr. A. Swan, Jr., went with me for a walk. We ascended a high hill near the city, where we could look down upon Greenock and the harbor, the winding Clyde and the great maze of mountain peaks beyond, which is known as the "Duke of Argyle's Bowling Green." It is early in the morning. The sun and atmosphere and city are clear. The waters and towns are bright, and we have one of the finest scenes around, above and below unfolded to our view. I have never, I think, seen anything quite so picturesque. Among those misty and clustered peaks in the distance you might imagine you saw Youth-land, Hope-land, Fairy-land, Dream-land, Love-land and lakes, cities and gardens, guarded by tall, everlasting, rock-founded hills. We walked up the Lyle road to the top of the Craig, and now stand at the foot of the flag-staff on the rock, four hundred and ten feet above sea-level. The sun is still clear to us; but see! a cloud already hangs over Greenock-a cloud which seems to rest on many pillars of black smoke which go up from the tall chimneys. The track of the sun on the Clyde looks like a broad pathway of copper. At our feet on the Clyde, below Greenock, lies Gourock, a pleasant and busy little town which will be a suburb of Greenock when the railway is completed between the two points. The railway will run nearly all the way under the hills, for as we came up we saw the shafts, at the foot of which the thoroughfare is being made. Now we are joined by Capt. Wm. Orr, an athletic little man of four score years, who comes up here for a walk each morning. His mind is still clear and active. He had been a sailor and followed the seas for many years. He said, "This scene is unsurpassed in the world. When I was a boy Greenock had about twenty thousand population, and nearly all of the people were employed on the sea or in seafaring business." Ships, steamers and boats of nearly all kinds and sizes are coming and going. Here come a number of sidewheel steamers from various points down the Clyde, from Ardrassan, Stranrær, Larne, etc., bringing tourists and business people up to Greenock, Port Glasgow and Glasgow. See that dark monster with six tall masts near the middle of the Clyde, beyond "Ajax," the guard-ship! That is the Great Eastern, the largest vessel on all the seas; six hundred and eighty feet long. Think of it! a vessel more than one-eighth of a mile long guided by men on the boundless and chainless sea! But she is too large to be profitable, and so she is lying here on exhibition. We passed on around and down the fine Lyle road. Oh, what a drive! from the waves of the sea and the busy city streets up over the rocks almost to the clouds, by an easy grade! Thank you, Mr. Lyle! I say Mr., for I do not remember whether he is a cap |