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16. Churches; Courts of Law; Audiencia; Observatory'.

17. Hospitals

18. Royal Printing Office; Mint; Stock Exchange; Banks; University; Carpet Manufactory

19. Palaces of the Grandees. Remarkable Houses and Graves

20. Environs of Madrid

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provement has taken place in this respect. The arms of Madrid are a tree vert with fruit gules, up which a bear is climbing, an orle azure with eight stars, argent, and over the escutcheon a royal crown.

Madrid really rose under Charles V., 35 who, gouty and phlegmatic, felt himself relieved by its brisk and rarefied air; and, consulting his personal comfort only, he deserted for this upstart favourite the time-honoured capitals of Valladolid, Seville, Granada, and Toledo, to fix his residence_(about 1510) on a spot which Iberian, Roman, Goth, and Moor had all rejected. Madrid was declared "the only court" by Philip II. in 1560, and styled " Imperial y Coronada, muy noble y muy leal,” to which was added "y muy heroica," by Ferdinand VII. in 1814.

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This city, the capital of Spain, is situated on the side of the waterless river Manzanares, and has a population of 399,523. The first historical and real mention of Madrid occurs under Ramiro II., c. 930. Majerit, as it was then called, was only a Moorish fortified outpost of Toledo when captured in 1083 by Alonso VI. Enrique IV., about 1461, made some additions to the older town, which was placed on the west prominence over the river Manzanares. It was surrounded with forests, which Argote describes, so late as 1582, as "buen monte de puerco 080" (good cover for boar and bear), on account of which the site was made a royal hunting residence. These woods have long been cut down by the improvident inhabitants; their loss, as at Rome, having contributed much to the general insalubrity of the town. Of recent years, however, much im[Spain, 1882.]

The gross mistake of a most faulty position, which has no single advantage except the fancied geographical merit of being in the centre of Spain, was soon felt, and Philip III. in 1601 endeavoured to remove the court back again_to Valladolid, which, however, was then found to be impracticable, such had been the creation of new interests during the outlay in the preceding reign. Philip II. had, moreover, neglected the opportunity of placing the capital of the Peninsula at Lisbon, which is admirably situated on a noble river and on the sea, where the marine could not have been left to perish; had this been done, Portugal never would or could have revolted, or the Peninsula been thus dissevered, by which the first blow was dealt to Spain's short-lived greatness: thus to Madrid, and to its monkish ulcer the Escorial, is the germ of present decay to be traced. Charles III., a wise prince, contemplated a removal to Seville; so also

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did the intrusive Joseph, but the thing | This winter blast is more peculiarly was impossible.

fatal to young children, but weak constitutions should avoid it. The spring is sometimes wet and rainy; when not, the climate is perfect. The summer is a dangerous period (when the pores are open), for often during a N.E. wind the difference of temperature on one side of a street to the other is of several degrees.

The city is abundantly supplied with excellent water, obtained from the source of the river Lozoya, brought from a distance of 32 m., which rises amongst the southern spurs of the sierra Guadarrama.

The basin in which Madrid stands is bounded by the Sierra of the Guadarrama, and by the Montes of Toledo and Guadalupe, and consists chiefly of tertiary formations, marl, gypsum, and limestone. The latter, found at Colmenar de Oreja, near Aranjuez, is a freshwater deposit, and has been much used in the construction of the buildings of Madrid: the excellent granite comes from Colmenar Viejo (Arabicè bee-hive), near the Escorial. A curious magnesite, with bones of extinct mammalia, occurs at Vallecas, 5 m. from the capital, S.S.E., to which the geo- The houses in Madrid are lofty, and logist should ride to examine the flint- different families live on different floors pits between Vallecas and Vicalvaro. or flats, having the staircase in comm. off is a gypsum quarry. mon; each apartment is protected by Madrid is not even a city or Ciudad, a solid door, in which there is a small but only the chief of villas. It has, wicket, from which the suspicious however, always had a bishop, called inmates inspect visitors before they "Obispo auxiliár de Madrid" (suf- let them in. The interiors, according fragan of Toledo), but no cathedral. to our notions, are uncomfortable and It is divided into 16 parishes. It unfurnished; with no books, or appearscarcely existed in the early period ance of occupation or of life. of Castilian history, and was built when the age of cathedrals was passed, that age in which edifices were raised in harmony with the deep and noble sentiment within; hence it has little to interest the antiquarian. Built chiefly by Philip III. and Philip IV., and Charles II.,and perfected under the foreigner, nowhere has the vile Chur- The best months for visiting Madrid rigueresque and Rococo of Louis XIV. are those of April, May, and June, been carried to greater excess. No October and November. Carnival edifices record the Moorish, medieval, time is, however, the gayest period of or greater ages of Spain. The churches the year: then fêtes are the order of are sad specimens of an insatiable the day, and one-half of the population greediness for tinsel. turn out en mascara, to intrigue and to flirt with the other half, who as a rule go unmasked.

Madrid, as a residence, is disagreeable and unhealthy, alternating between the extremities of temperature. The winter is variable, and often intensely cold, whilst the keen currents of air which sweep down from the snowy Guadarrama are fatal to weak and consumptive constitutions.

It is proverbial that the subtle air of Madrid, which will not extinguish a candle, will put out a man's life.

"El aire de Madrid es tan sotil

Que mata á un hombre, y no apaga á un candil."

A great improvement has taken place in house building at Madrid. The new streets near the Barrio de Salamanca and the Fuente Castellana are full of handsome houses; many of them are surrounded by pleasant gardens.

The season in Madrid commences about the end of October, and closes with the Carnival.

Madrid will most please those who have hurried directly into Spain from France; to them the costume of the Prado, the bull-fights, and the azure blue sky, will possess a charm of novelty, which will be wanting to those who arrive from Valencia, Granada, or Seville.

The traveller will have no difficulty in distinguishing which houses are Casas de Huespedes, as a white paper ticket is placed on the corner of the window, or fastened to the balcony, when the house is without its full complement of boarders. N.B. Where the paper is placed in the centre of the window or balcony, the lodgings are unfurnished.

§ 1. HOTELS, RESTAURANTS, CAFÉS. Inns:-1st class: Fonda de Paris, Puerta del Sol; excellently situated, accommodation good; charges from 40 r. upwards, waiters and lights not included. N.B. These prices are charged whether the visitor dines and breakfasts at the hotel or not.-Fonda de la Paz and Hotel de Londres, both kept by Capdeville, Puerta del Sol; Restaurants: The best, where a firstcharges from 50 r. An arrangement rate dinner may be had at a high price, can be made if the visitor dines and Café de Fornos.-Lhardy, Carrera de breakfasts out. N.B. Make special San Geronimo; notice must be given agreement upon arrival.-Gran Hotel the day before. Ready cooked and de Rusia, Carrera San Geronimo; ac- preserved meats for a journey precommodation good and charges mode-pared here.-Los Dos Cisnes, next rate (40 r., 50 r., and 60 r., &c., per day, according to the size of the rooms). -Hotel Americano, Puerta del Sol; charges from 40 r. upwards. N.B. For these prices 3 meals a day are allowed. For families of more than 2 persons, prices are from 30 r.-Fonda de los Embajadores, Calle de la Victoria, moderate; charges from 40 r. to 50 r. per day. N.B. A reduction is made from these prices when the visitor dines or breakfasts out.

to the Café de Fornos; a decent dinner may be had here for 20 r.—Café de Paris, in the Pasage; a good breakfast may be had for 24 pesetas.

Cafes:-Café de Fornos, Calle de Alcala.-Café Imperial, Puerta del Sol (below the Fonda de Paris).-La Bolsa, Calle Barquillo, where at times Spanish singing and dancing may be seen to perfection.-Cerveceria Inglesa, Carrera de San Geronimo; Bass's ale.-At Dña. Mariquita's establishment, in the Calle del Arenal, excellent chocolate can be had at all hours. Pasteleria de Viena, 28 Alcala, excelSpanish Hotels:-Fonda Española, lent ices and cakes, where ladies can Calle de Jacometrezo, 45; Hotel Bil-go at all hours. Newspapers are not baino, Carrera de San Geronimo, supplied, as at Paris. charges from 26 r. upwards. These hotels are frequented chiefly by Spaniards.

2nd class: Fonda Peninsular, Calle de Alcalá, close to the Puerta del Sol: this, the first commercial hotel in Madrid, is indifferent.

Lodgings, Boarding-houses (Casas de Huespedes). These are very numerous in Madrid. Travellers who intend to remain a fortnight, or longer, in the Spanish capital, are advised to board and lodge in one of these establishments, where for a fixed price (varying from 30 r. to 40 r. per diem) they will have their private bedroom, and two meals a day (almuerzo-breakfast-at 11 a.m., and dinner at 6 p.m.). Attendance is generally charged extra, 2 r. per day each person. Bedrooms on 2nd and 3rd floors are more airy and healthy than on the ground-floor.

Summer Beverages.-The scorching summer heats in Madrid necessitate the abundant use of cooling drinks. These are supplied at the restaurant, the café, the theatre, and at the Aguaduchos in the streets and on the principal Paseos. Agua de Cebada is very refreshing; so is the Horchata (Orgeat) de Chufas, or mitj e mitj ("half and half"), made of barley and pounded chufas, and iced lemonade. No drink, however, comes up to the Agraz or clarified verjuice. It is delicious when mixed with Manzanilla wine. Cerbeza con limon, or bottled beer mixed with lemon-juice and well iced, is another favourite summer drink.

Teatro de la Comedia, 14 Calle del Principe.

La Zarzuela, 4 Calle de Jovellanos. This is the Opéra Comique of Madrid. Teatro del Principe Alfonso, in the Paseo de Recoletos, originally built for a circus. In 1870 it was converted into a theatre for large scenic ballets, which are given during the spring and summer months. In the early spring excellent instrumental concerts are here given on Sunday afternoons.

Teatro de Novedades, 83 Calle de Toledo: dramas, farces, &c. At this theatre during Lent the curious Passion plays are still given.

In the Teatros Eslava, Lara, de la Bolsa, Martin, Romeo, Variedades, and Alhambra, short pieces are given, which last an hour.