special attention of the traveller. It is Juan de Arfe's masterpiece, dated 1590.

Close at hand is the Ch. of Sta. Maria la Antigua, marked by its fine tall steeple, Lombard in style, which, as well as the body of the nave, dates from about 1200, while the E. end is later. This is an interesting pure Gothic ch. of parallel triapsal plan, with roof richly groined. Obs. on N. side the remains of the beautiful old external (see Street) cloisters. The retablo of the high altar, by Juan de Juni (1556), a much-vaunted piece of sculpture, has the fault of extravagant distortion.

The following later Gothic churches are distinguished by richness of style and profuse ornamentation.

San Pablo. It was partly rebuilt, 1463, by the Card. Juan Torquemada, the cruel inquisitor, and it was continued in the 17th centy. by the Card. Duke of Lerma, whose arms are seen on the upper part of the façade, above the beautiful portal of the finest Gothic flamboyant style, which is enriched with statues, foliage, thin tracery, and armorial decoration. This ch. was gutted, stripped, and despoiled by the French, and has lately been restored. Adjoining it is the

Colegiata de San Gregorio, one of the magnificent foundations of Cardinal Ximenez, dated 1496, having also a splendid façade (rich in heraldic ornament) and portal, which runs up into an armorial tree. In the Patio there is a very fine example of a window, with decorations in stucco, in the Moorish style. The quadrangle and staircase of the convent are splendid, and are undoubtedly among the finest things at Valladolid; notice the artesonado halls (once library) and chapel. This edifice was ruined by the French.

The Church of San Martin has an interesting tower of Romanesque style; the arches inside the church are pointed.

San Benito. The convent is now a

barrack. The ch., which is about to be restored, was begun 1499. The interior very fine, roof richly groined. It has a choir gallery at the W. end, besides one on the ground enclosed with an iron grille.

La Magdalena, 1570, bears on its W. front the arms of its founder, Bp. Pedro de la Gasca, whose monument it contains, as well as a Corinthian retablo, both masterpieces of Esteban Jordan, 1571, 1577.

In the Ch. of Nuestra Señora de las Angustias (date 1604) the high altar is ascribed to Pompeo Leoni. La Madre Dolorosa, called also "La Virgen de los Cuchillos," from 7 swords piercing her breasts, arranged like a fan, is the masterpiece of Juan de Juni.

At San Lorenzo there is a curious

painting which represents a procession in the time of Philip III.

The small chapel of Portaceli has a splendid retablo and altar of coloured marbles and bronzes.

The Church of La Cruz, Calle de la Plateria, contains some fine wooden sculptures by Gregorio Hernandez.

At the Church of La Antigua there is a good retablo by Juan de Juni.

Colegio de los Ingleses, Calle Real de Don Sancho, was endowed by Sir Francis Englefield (one of the most zealous adherents of Mary Queen of Scots), who withdrew to Spain after her execution. Philip II. granted certain privileges in 1590, which the College still enjoys. 45 students from the United Kingdom are the usual number educating for the priesthood.

Colegio de los Escoceses, Calle del Salvador (formerly a Jesuit College), was founded about 1790, for the education of Catholic priests for North Britain. 20 young Scotchmen are constantly under tuition.

Museo (formerly the Colegio de

June 2, 1452, that spoilt child of fortune, Alvaro de Luna, the favourite of Juan II., deserted, after long services, by his master, a shallow, false, and feeble king, influenced alike by poets and courtiers, and alternately their dupe and tyrant. Alvaro for thirty years had really held the sceptre, keeping down the turbulent aristocracy with a rod of iron: his death was courageous, as became a knight; humble, as became a Christian. Here, again, Charles V., on a grand throne, wisely pardoned the Comuneros. Here his son, Philip II., celebrated, Oct. 7, 1559, the first memorable Auto de Fé. Such spectacles were of frequent occurrence here during the rule of the Inquisition.

Campo Grande, situated between the rly. stat. and the town. Here Napoleon I. reviewed 35,000 troops in Jan. 1809.

The Acera de Recoletos, on the S. side, is a winter promenade.

Columbus died at his house, No. 7, Calle de Colón, on the 20th of May, 1506. His bones were removed to San Domingo in 1536, and from thence to Cuba in 1795.

Cervantes resided at the house, No. 14, Calle de Rastro, and it is supposed that he wrote the first part of his Don Quijote here after his return from slavery.

Don Rodrigo Calderon, the minister of Philip III., lived in the house No. 22, Calle de Teresa Gil (he was beheaded Oct. 21st, 1621).

Philip II. came into the world in a large house opposite San Pablo, on May 21st, 1527.

Juan de Juni, the sculptor, painter, and architect, lived and died in the house, No. 39, at rt.-hand corner of the Calle de San Luis, near the Campo Grande. Hernandez purchased it soon after the death of his fellow-sculptor, and here he also lived until his death, 22nd January, 1636.

Berruguete lived opposite St. Benito el Real. He began life as an Escribano del crimen to the Chancilleria, or crownside attorney; from the desk of chicanery he passed into the noble studio

of Michael Angelo, and became immortal. The inæsthetic authorities of Valladolid, so far from raising a monument to his glory, have converted his house into a barrack, as the palace of the princely Benavente was turned by them into a foundling hospital.

In the house, first to the rt. going out of the Plazuela Vieja into the Calle de San Martin, Alonso Cano is said by libellers to have killed his wife.

Fabio Nelli, the Mæcenas of Valladolid, lived in the plaza which still bears his name; obs. the fine old house with Corinthian patio and medallions.

In the Casa de las Argollas, so called from the "iron links," Alvaro de Luna was confined before his execution; the artesonado ceiling of his dungeon of state was magnificent.

The Casa del Sol, a handsome edifice opposite San Gregorio, was the abode of Diego Sarmiento de Acuña, Count de Gondomar, ambassador from Philip III. to James I. of England,— a learned man and no mean diplomatist. He died here, Aug. 1, 1626.

Look also at the Casa de VillaSantes, in the Calle del Rosario, and at the patio of the Casa Revilla, corner of the Calle de la Ceniza.

A railway is projected from Valladolid by Soria to Calatayud, 1882.

Diligences to Benavente, Salamanca, and Segovia. Barges leave daily by the Canal of Castille for Palencia, fare 12 rs.

EXCURSIONS.

To Simancas (Pop. 1258): 7 m. on the road to Zamora. Inn: Casa de Huespedes del Hojalatero, not good. Here the bulk of the Spanish archives are deposited. (See Route 20.)

8 m. Viana Stat. Pop. 385. Iron bridge over the Duero.

3 m. Valdestillas Stat. Pop. 918.
5 m. Matapozuelos Stat. Pop. 1459.
4 m. Posaldez Stat. Pop. 2139.

8 m. Medina del Campo Junction Stat. Change for Zamora and Salamanca (Rtes. 15, 18). (Inns: Parador del Norte, 5 m. walk from the station; one of the best managed hotels in Spain, and moderate in

Visit the Castillo de la Mota, which rises out of the plain. This picturesque brick building, with bartizan turrets, was built by Fernando de Carreño, for Juan II., in 1440, on the site of the Roman Methimna; it was enlarged by Queen Isabel in 1479. It was the prison of Cæsar Borgia, and in it Queen Isabel the Pious died, Nov. 26, 1504, in the 54th year of her age and the 30th of her reign. Here also, in 1555, Juana la Loca held her court.

Rly. to Segovia projected.

3 m. Gomez-Narro Stat. Pop. 431. 10 m. Ataquines Stat. Pop. 1292. 91 m. Arévalo Stat. Pop. 3595. Diligence to Segovia. In its royal palace (now in ruins) resided Queen Isabel, Charles V., Philip II., Philip III., and Philip IV. The Adaja river is now crossed on a viaduct of 4 arches of double tiera.

6 m. Adanero Stat. (the town-Pop. 1070-is situated 3 m. 1. of the stat.). See outline of hills of Somosierra to the 1.

63 m. Sanchidrian Stat. (Pop. 976), 2850 ft. above the sea-level. About here are extensive pine-woods.

4 m. Velayos Stat. Pop. 1023. The country here is richly wooded with ilex.

6 m. Mingorria Stat. Pop. 1111. Chaos of granite blocks.

83 m. AVILA STAT. Buffet at station, m. from the town. Inns: Fonda del Ingles, but now managed by a native, 30 rs.; very fair. Fonda de la Victoria, from 20 rs. a day. Both near the Cathedral; both have omnibus to the station.

Avila (Pop. 9115) is 3496 ft. above the sea-level. It presents a noble specimen of a medieval wall-girt city, and is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque towns in Spain, and on no account to be passed by without a visit. Its granite walls are perfect; they were begun in 1090, and are 40 ft. high and 12 ft. thick, and there are no less than 86 towers and 10 gateways. To form these gateways two of the towers are brought near together, carried up higher than the rest, and connected together by an arch. Before the use of artillery the city must have been impregnable, for every point commands the plain below the hill upon which it is built, and even the grand Cathedral is half church, half fortress. Avila is placed near the Sierra de Avila, which in winter is snow-capped; it is a charming retreat from the summer and autumnal heats of the metropolis of Spain, for the parameras are always fresh,the vega is wonderfully fertile, and many are the sweet valleys which lie ensconced between the hills, watered by gloriously picturesque trout streams. In winter there is excellent wild-fowl shooting, and a wolf may often be met with.

Avila, says the Spaniards, was originally called Abula, after the mother of Hercules, by whom the first city which bore that name is said to have been founded B.C. 1660. Whoever may have founded the original city, the city which now exists was rebuilt by Don Ramon of Burgundy (son-in-law of Alonso VI.), in the year of our Lord 1088. The wall was built under the superintendence of two foreigners,— Cassandro, a master of geometry and a Roman, and Florian de Pituenga, a Frenchman. The streets of Avila are narrow and tortuous, but picturesque. The city is the see of a bishop suffragan to Valladolid, and it has a university and military college.