of the 15th centy. Upon a finely that in the centre opens into the nave, worked silver foot is placed a stem sup- and those on either side into the aisles; ported by angels carrying instruments in the centre is La Gloria, the promiof the Passion. The silver head, said nent feature of which is our Saviour to contain that of Santiago Alfeo, is-sculptured twice the size of lifecovered with precious stones, and is work of the 14th centy. A gold chalice of San Rosendo, 15th centy., is also worthy of notice. There are a great number of small objects belonging to the church which are interesting. The Custodia by Antonio de Arfe, 1564, is very fine, although by no means so perfect as those at Toledo and Cordova. In this chapel are five sepulchral statues of royal personages, of great antiquity, e.g. Don Ramon, husband of Urraca, era 1126; Fernandus II., 1226; Berenguela, 1187; Alonso IX., of Leon, 1268; and Juan de Castro, 1412. Obs. also the enamelled tombs of San Cucufato and San Fructuoso. The Tesoro, upstairs, has a fine artesonado roof. Here is the urna, the silver sarcophagus, with the star above, in which the Host is deposited on Good Friday, when it is placed in a beautiful viril, made in 1702 by Figueroa, of Salamanca. Among the few objects which still remain in the vestiary may be mentioned a cope, embroidered with figures, some ecclesiastical vestments embroidered in pearls, the gift of Philip III., and a good collection of tapestries. Obs. also the Gallardete banner of the Turkish galley at the Battle of Lepanto, which was given to this ch. by Don John of Austria. It is hung from the roof of the coro on the festival of the Saint, and reaches to the ground. The flag of the galley of Don John is at the cathedral of Toledo. The chief glory of this ch.-in an architectural point of view-is its grand western entrance, fitly called el Pórtico de la Gloria, E E E, being undoubtedly one of the most glorious achievements of Christian art. It is the most important representation of the Last Judgment which is known of the 12th centy., and was designed and executed by Maestro Mateo, circa A.D, 1168-1188, Consisting of 3 arches, seated with St. James (also seated) below him, and the other Evangelists to the rt. and 1., two of them having their emblematic beasts, and one his bird, reposing on their laps. Around them are angels worshipping. The archivolt has the sitting figures of the four-and-twenty elders arranged round its circumference: these figures have been much less injured than the rest of the doorway. In the arch to the 1., or N., are angels carrying souls to heaven; other figures appear to come out of Purgatory; in the centre of the arch are angels sounding the trumpet of the Last Judgment. In the doorway to the rt., or S., are represented the infernal regions, although in the centre there are figures of angels and souls corresponding to the other door-. way. This subject is prolonged on the rt.-hand side to the immediate capital: these figures must be looked at with attention; their treatment is full of phantasy. It must be remembered that this work is anterior by a century to Dante's great poem. Figures of Apostles and personages of the Old Testament support the arches; they are admirably executed. The columns rest on a series of monsters, which appear to symbolise vice conquered by the saints above them. In the shaft which divides the central doorway, kneeling towards the interior, is the figure of the architect, Maestro Mateo, holding a band on which is inscribed the word Architectus. Among the shafts there are four of different marbles. The most important of these is the centre one, on which is carved in a most admirable manner the Tree of Jesse. Remains of colour are still visible on several of the figures. It is evident that the whole doorway was originally painted. In the centre doorway may be read an inscription stating that it was finished A.D. 1188 (era 1226). At the South Kensington Museum there is a complete cast of this admirable work, made at the ex pense of the English Government by Brucciani in 1866.** Under the Pórtico de la Gloria there exists a large chapel or small Romanesque ch. which must be visited. It is called, without foundation, La Catedral Vieja. Its plan is a Latin cross, with three groups of columns in the centre, which with their arches form two naves. Some of the carvings of the capitals are extremely interesting. It is supposed to be the first thing built by Master Matteo (circa 11681175). The altar frontal is very remarkable. Obs. especially the interesting reliefs which occupy the place of the Retablo. One of the marble statues on the altar appears to be Roman. The Virgin on the side altar, and the Santiago opposite the entrance, are worthy of attention. The ceremonial by pilgrims to this shrine is after this wise: the newly-arrived ascends some steps behind the image, places his hands on the shoulders, and kisses the hood. This osculation is essential, and is called el fin del Romaje, the end, the object of the pilgrimage. The pilgrim next proceeds to one of the "confessourez," and confesses; then he is "assoyled," communicates, and receives his certificate, or, as it is called, his "compostella." This is a printed Latin document, signed by the canon, "Fabricæ administrador," which certifies that he has complied with all the devotional ceremonies necessary to constitute a romero, a real pilgrim. This compostella was often deposited with the family title-deeds as a voucher of the visit, as otherwise lands under certain entails could not be inherited. The festival of St. James (25th July) is celebrated with especial solemnity whenever it falls upon a Sunday. The ceremonies of the offertory on this day and on the Epiphany are extremely various and full of interest, and are fully described in 'Fraser's Magazine,' August, 1864. In the travels of the Suabian Knight of Rozmittal many curious details are given of Santiago in the 15th centy. § 4. UNIVERSITY, CONVENTS, OLD HOUSES. From the cathedral the traveller can visit the University, founded, 1532, by Archbishop Fonseca. It is much fre quented: its library is a fine room and well provided with books, including several French works and Cobbett's Parliamentary Debates,' in true Britannic half-russia, contrasting with the vellums of Spain! The Convent of San Francisco should also be visited; its chapel, now used as a parroquia, is fine, and has a good roof. Obs. behind the altar a portrait of a Monroy, a former benefactor. The other once splendid convents of Santiago are now in a deserted, halfruined condition. The cloisters of the half-destroyed San Agustin deserve notice, and the square belfry of Santo Domingo. Among the parish churches, that of San Felix de Celorio is the work of Martin Paris, 1316, but it has been much modernised. In Las Animas is some good painted sculpture, principally representing our Saviour's Passion, by Prado, a local artist. In Santa Maria de Conjo, 1 m. outside the town, may be seen a fine crucifix of natural size by Hernandez, 16th centy. Many of the façades of the old houses are interesting; several still possess remains of the 12th and 13th centuries. Santiago is the only capital in Spain which has changed so little that there is hardly any alteration in the plan of the town during the last two centuries. In the Platerias may be bought the picturesque and reasonable silver-gilt local jewellery worn by the peasants, and very suitable for presents. § 5. PROMENADES, MARKETS, Walks. The public walk, called El Gran *Mr. Street, in his Gothic Architecture of Spain,' London, 1865, has engraved the portico as a whole, with the exquisite detail of its central Campo de Santa Susana is charming. The Paseo de Afuera is also a pleasant shaft. lounge, from whence the best view of the W. front of the cathedral and the adjoining buildings is obtained. The artist and naturalist will of course go to the market held in a long, narrow, open shed, near the Convent of San Agustin, and there study natural history and costume. The women wear plaitless woollen dresses, which fall straight down and display the figure. In the height of summer they are clad in white or striped linen, which they throw over their heads for mantillas, exhibiting their dark sayas. The men wear full pantaloons, à la Turque, and a singular helmet-shaped montera (the mitra cristata of their forefathers): in rainy weather they wear an over-cloak of straw thatch. Sunday, as is usual in Galicia, is the great market-day; after mass the peasants enjoy their dances and bagpipes, the Gaita Gallega, and play at single-stick. * The visitor to Santiago may ascend the Monte Pedroso, some 2000 ft. high, from whence is obtained a panoramic view as extensive as it is beautiful. Walk up also to the Monte de Altamira, situated to the E. of the town: a noble view is hence obtained, looking over the quarries and Santa Clara. Diligences to Coruña, 3 or 4 daily. Diligences to Vigo (raily. in progress) (Rte. 58). the two fortified gateways. Obs. the windmills upon the hill, to the rt. 3 m. Palabea. The views of the ria to the 1. are fine. 6 m. Carral. Pop. 4699. A picturesque little town, inhabited by an industrial population. 2 m. Herbes, situated in the beautiful valley de la Barcia. A little farther on is the Puente de Abelleira, which spans a trout-stream by one fine arch. 5 m. Leira. Inn: Parador de las Diligencias, the "half-way house" between La Coruña and Santiago. 23 m. Ordenes. Pop. 6017. Leaving this village a bridge is crossed, and farther on another, over the rio Gindibon. 2 m. Santa Cruz de Montaos. 3 m. Sigueiro. Here, on the first Tuesday in the month, a considerable cattle and horse fair is held. 6 m. Santiago de Compostella. (See Rte. 55.) ROUTE 57. SANTIAGO TO CAPE FINISTERRE BY CORCUBION. 39 m. On this picturesque riding excursion attend to the provend; take a local guide and some sort of introduction to Corcubion. The path from Santiago passes 14 m. Buen Jesus. 10 m. Corcubion (U.S.A. Consular Agent: Dn. Enrique Villanueva. Pop. about 1767) is a poor fishing town under a slope of the Entorde, on a charming ria; the port was defended by two now dismantled forts. La Nave and the noble Cape, El Cabo, which is seen in all its glory from El Pindo, rise grandly at this, the western end of the old world-the Promontorium Nerium. 6 m. Finisterre. Pop. 4090. This Land's End was the district of the Arotebræ, Artabri, a word some fanciful Celtic etymologists interpret as Ar-ot-aber, a "hanging over the sea." This ironbound coast and fierce sea, delightful to poets and painters, but fatal to frail barks, is the fear of mariners. Here, Feb. 24, 1846, the Great Liverpool was lost on the shoals of Guros, 5 m. 1. from Corcubion. The natives plundered the wreck, and the passengers were pillaged by even the carabineros, the Spanish protective service, sent to guard them (Times,' March 9, 1846).* On these waters, May 3, 1747, Anson took all the six line-of-battle ships and four armed Indiamen, which formed the combined East and West Indian French squadron under La Jonquière. Then the captain of the Invincible, when delivering up his sword, said to Anson, "Vous avez vaincu l'Invincible, et la Gloire (another of the prizes) vous suit." Here, again, Nov. 4, 1805, Sir Richard Strachan caught and captured the four runaways from Trafalgar, the Admiral, Dumanoir, the first to fly on the former occasion, being now the first to strike his flag. Here, before, on the previous July 22, Sir Robert Calder, with only 15 sail of the line, had attacked Ville Buonaparte received the news of this naval triumph with infinite discontent, as it entirely deranged his plan for the invasion of England, since Villeneuve was forced to sail south instead of north, and thus failed, in becoming master of the British Channel. Returning to Corcubion the equestrian may thence make a circuit of 15 m. in an easterly direction to visit the Ch. of Nuestra Señora de la Barca, to which a romeria (or pilgrimage) is made on the 8th of September. In the immediate vicinity is the singular rocking-stone called La Barca. This Celtic structure is of enormous proportions: it lies near the bay of Camariñas and the village of Mujia. The antiquarian is referred to Señor Saralegui's work for a detailed description of this interesting locality.* ROUTE 58. neuve commanding 21, and captured SANTIAGO TO VIGO, BY CARRIL AND two; a thick fog came on, which, according to M. Thiers, prevented the French victory. The English almost felt so limited a success to be a reverse; and the gallant Calder was brought to a court-martial for the incompleteness of his victory. His defence, however, was unanswerable; and Nelson, just to a brave man, like the Duke to Moore, manfully asserted, "that he, with so small a force, might not have done so much.' The readers of Borrow's Bible in Spain will remember his hair-breadth escape from being shot for Don Carlos, just as Lord Carnarvon was nearly put to death in the same district for Don Miguel. Mr. Borrow was luckily delivered by the alcade of Corcubion. PONTEVEDRA. RAIL AND DILIGENCE. 56 m. ber. It was formerly a sanctuary for every kind of criminals, who have testified their gratitude to their patroness by numerous votive offerings. These clerical asylums of crime (once so common) by which justice was so often defeated, although now shivered by the explosion of public opinion, were in times of violence a sort of rude equity, which even armed power respected. Higher up is the Pico Sacro, a conical hill of crystallized quartz; its holy epithet is simply a translation of the old Gallican Mons Sacer described by Justin (xliv. 3); the country, abounding in maize and fruit, up to San Juan de Coba is extremely picturesque. by a stone bridge, and the suburbs of Inn: Fonda 5 m. Carril Stat. U.S.A. Consular Agents: Don Luis . Carril has an excellent harbour capable of containing ships of 600 tons, 3 m. Padron Stat. El Padron-el and is one of the busiest ports of Spain. patron (the patron)-Pop. 9015, is built Not far is Caldas de Reyes (Calidas), on the ancient Iria Flavia, a name where are warm mineral baths (the still retained in the Colegiata de Santa season from July 1 to Sept. 30). Inn: Maria, which ranks as a cathedral next Casa de Busto. The temperature of to that of Santiago de Compostella, the colourless and tastless waters is being in fact of earlier foundation. about 32° Réaumur. Their effect in This town is situated on the Sar, which softening the skin is marvellous. The soon flows into the Ulla. Easter Mon- bath is of granite, with a partition. day is the local holiday and cattle Thus about five men and five women fair. El Padron, being the spot at can bathe and talk to each other at which the body of Santiago landed the same time. The flies are unbearitself, was formerly an important pil-able. Caldas de Reyes is perhaps the grim city, to which the romeros came worst paved town in Spain. after having first visited Compostella. Morales, 'Viage,' p. 137, details their proceedings: first they visited the ch. of Santiago, kissed the image over the high altar, and then walked round and kissed the stone, the pedestal of a Roman statue, to which the self-navigated boat moored itself—a miracle the town bears on its shield for arms. They then ascended the Montaña, to a hermitage built on the spot where St. James preached; next they drank and performed their ablutions from a stream which gushes out beneath the altar; and lastly, they ascended on their knees to the rocks which St. James pierced with his staff, in order to escape from the pursuing Gentiles; over two of the holes or agujeros the devout stretched their bodies, and those not over corpulent crept through. 1 m. Cesures Stat. Pop. 4906. Leaving El Padron,the Sar is crossed [About 3 m. up the river are the Caldas de Cuntis, warm hydro-sulphuric baths, which also benefit the skin. The Establecimiento is well arranged: there is a Fonda in the first floor, and fine marble baths below. The season lasts from June 15 to October 1. Casas de Huéspedes; the best are Viuda de Barreiro and Amalia. About 7000 visitors attend yearly.] The diligence must be taken here for Redondela. The country continues to be rich. The peasantry have a truly Irish look; their rude carts laden with maize, (and in make everything that a cart ought not to be), creep along to the music of drony bagpipes, or of creaking solid wheels. Crossing a ridge, the ancient walled town of Pontevedra (Pons vetus), with its long bridge, rises on a peninsular slope on the bank of its picturesque and piscatose ria, |