From Palencia the rly. continues through environs thickly dotted with manufactories of linen, cloth, &c. Obs. to the rt. a conical hill, at the top of which is the hermitage of the Cristo de Otero. The two doorways which lead to the has been attributed to Andrea del cloister are interesting. The one Sarto. opposite the choir is Gothic; the centre figure of the Virgin is good. This door was built in 1535. Near the plateresque doorway, which leads to the cloister, is the Sala Capitular. It contains many good pictures. Among them obs. a fine example of Mateo Cerezo; a St. Peter by Rivera; Sta. Rosa, by Zurbaran; two early German pictures-a Crucifixion, and Virgin and Child. Ask to see a Persian carpet of the 15th centy. The cloister is not worth visiting. In the sacristy is kept the splendid custodia made in 1582 by Arfe and Juan de Benavente. A silver casket, of Italian Renaissance work, is attributed to Cellini. The vestments are splendid, the gift of different prelates. The altar frontals are very good. Enquire for the church vestments (terno), embroidered with corals. 4. CHURCHES. San Pablo, to the N.W. of the town, was formerly a Dominican convent built in the 15th centy. The choir seats are good, but the principal objects of interest in this church are the superb sepulchres of the Rojas family, with the statues of the Marquis of Poza and his wife (1557), which are justly considered the best specimens of Renaissance sculpture which exist at Palencia. The Church of San Miguel is interesting, 12th and 13th centy. The plan is composed of three aisles, which terminate in apses, and is one of the best examples of a Spanish parish church existing. The W. doorway, notwithstanding its horrible mutilations, is very fine: it represents the Last Judgment and scenes from the life of our Lord. The steeple also is good. San Francisco is a church of the same period, but not of the same importance. An interesting sepulchre may be seen in one of the chapels. 8 m. Monzon de Campos Stat. (Pop. 797), is situated in the centre of a plain, out of which rise two hills with the ruins of castles at the top of each. 5 m. Amusco Stat. Pop. 1690. The immediate neighbourhood is thickly populated. Obs. its ch.; the altar mayor represents the 12 Apostles, with St. Peter, attired in pontifical robes, in the centre. The fête day of the patron saint takes place on the Sunday which follows the 15th of August: it is a grand occasion, with bull-fights, fireworks, and dancing. 3 m. Piña de Campos Stat. Pop. 1180. In the immediate neighbourhood are the ruins of a castle with embattled towers. Near this vill. the Canal de Castilla, and the Rio Ucieza are crossed by the rly. 3 m. Fromista Stat. Pop. 1601. The Romanesque Church of San Martin is interesting. In the Church of Santa Maria are some good Gothic paintings. [About 10 m. to the 1. is the town of Carrion de los Condes. Pop. 3400. A diligence leaves from the station. The parish Church of Santa Maria is very ancient. The only thing that remains of the Ch. of Santiago is the fine Romanesque doorway covered with sculptures. The church was burnt by the French. The former Benedictine convent of San Zoil has a splendid cloister (1537-1577), richly ornamented with sculptures. It was built by Juan de Badajoz, Castrillo, and others. The choir-seats and iron railing from the monastery of Benevivero (now in ruins) have been removed to San Andrés.] 3 m. Marcilla Stat. Pop. 523. 3 m. Las Cabañas Stat. Pop. 317. The Ch. of San Lazaro and Santa 6 m. Osorio la Mayor Stat. Pop. Clara possesses some remains of the 1328. After passing this stat. twc 15th and 16th centys. A picture bridges are crossed, which span the behind the high altar of San Francisco | rivers Abanade and Buedo. 5 m. Espinosa de Villagonzalo Stat. 3m. Quintanilla Stat. Pop. 756. An ancient walled town now contain-To the 1. a small branch line, 3 m. ing scarcely 677 inhabitants. The rly. has been here excellently engineered, and the expense of its construction was exceedingly heavy. 7 m. Herrera Stat. Pop. 1527. Obs. the picturesque ruins of a Moorish castle. A fine bridge of 4 arches crosses the Rio Pisuerga. 4 m. Alar del Rey Stat. Pop. 732. Inn: Fonda, at the Rly. Stat. Here ends the Canal de Castilla. 63 m. Mave Stat. To the rt., at a little distance from this stat., the Rio Pisuerga enters a curious and highly picturesque gorge between vertical rocks. long, leads to the coal-mines of Barruelo. To the rt. are the villages of Cueña and Menaza, situated in a fertile plain watered by the Rio Carnesa. 4 m. Mataporquera Stat. To the rt. the pleasant valley of Hormiguera, to the 1. after leaving the stat., the small hamlet of Maturrepudio is passed. 5m. Pozazal Stat. Highest point of the line (3229 ft. above the sealevel). [After leaving this station, to the 1. is the village of Cervatos; its Parroquia is a particularly fine specimen of the Romanesque style of architecture. The façade of the principal 5 m. Aguilar de Campos Stat. Pop. entrance is sculptured with groups 1436. Obs. two hills, each crowned composed of figures in the most exwith a ruined castle: the one belonged travagant and indecent postures. This to the Lords of Aguilar, the other to ch. probably dates from about the that brave warrior Bernardo del Car- middle of the 11th centy. The interior pio. The ancient Convent of Santa is without merit.] The rly. now passes Maria, situated in a beautiful valley the village of Matamorosa (1) with its at the foot of one of its hills, is inter-mineral springs, and Fontibre (Fuentes esting. It is, however, sadly dilapi- de Ebro), near which is the source of dated, and most of the fine capitals the Rio Ebro: it gushes forth from a it contained have been taken to the wild and rocky source, and flows 342 Madrid "Museo Arqueológico." In a miles through the Rioja, and divides cave near this, it is said, are buried Aragon. Bernardo del Carpio, and Fernando Gallo, his right-hand man in war. Visit also the Romanesque ch. of Santa Cecilia, and the parish church of San Miguel, early pointed. 7 m. Reinosa Stat. Buffet. Taste the good pantortillas and rosquillas. Pop. 2952. Height above sea-level, 2779 ft. This tidy little town has a good street, and a bridge over the The coalfields of Orbó and Cervera beautiful Ebro. It is a busy place, may be reached from Aguilar, and from frequented by carriers: the fairs of this point the botanist, artist, and angler July 25 and Sept. 21 are attended by may make for the romantic district of most picturesquely dressed peasants the Liebana. This wild and ill-used and Pasiegas. The mountainous disarboretum lies in the midst of crater-trict by which it is surrounded is called like valleys. The chief place, the picturesque town of Potes (for which there is a diligence from Torrelavega Stat. on the Rly. p. 175), will be good head-quarters; it is situated at a point where the four charming valleys of del Prado, Val de Baro, Cereceda, and Cillorigo conjoin. This détour will lead the angler into one of the finest trout-fishing districts in Spain: the sport in the rivers Deva, Nansa, and Sal is excellent. The forests of the Liebana, although much neglected, are magnificent. las Montañas de Santander. Some of the passes to the N.W. are very high: the Portillo de Lasia rises 3800 ft. and de Lunada 3400 ft. above the sea-level. There is excellent shooting and fishing amongst these wild hills. After leaving Reinosa the railway crosses the Ebro over an iron bridge: immediately afterwards a tunnel of 1,500 meters is entered; after leaving it the road follows the course of the Besaya. The difficulties in engineering the line were very great; there are 20 tunnels within 20 m. After the tunnel of Peña Uncion is passed the country | the beautiful and well-cultivated valley becomes very grand and beautiful. To of Buelda opens to the 1. the right on a hill surrounded by trees is the church of Aldueso. The hamlet of Lantueño (Pop. 200) nestles in the valley. 7 m. Santiurde Stat. Pop. 1201. Try to get a seat on the right hand. The railroad here rises to a considerable elevation over the Besaya, shortly after descending through fine masses of calcareous rocks. The road is often supported by stone supports, which rise more than 100 m. over the torrent. Two tunnels are passed before reaching 4 m. Pesquera Stat. Pop. 399. [5 m. from this station, at Aguayo, are calamine (carbonate of zinc) mines.] Here a series of tunnels are passed. The river Besaya may be seen in the valley. The beautiful valley of Barcena is in front. After leaving the tunnel of Campo Postrero, the road is 200 m. over the valley. It suddenly takes a sharp turn before reaching Montabliz Stat. The river Galeron is crossed after leaving it, and four tunnels traversed. After passing the r. Pugayo, the valley of Barcena is entered, the village of Pie de Concha is passed; the 22nd tunnel leading the railroad along the valley of the Besaya to the station of 6 m. Barcena Stat. Pop. 881. The road continues in the mountains soon after reaching 2 m. Portolin Stat., the extreme end of the curve which is taken by the railway appears in the valley between Las Llosas and La Real. To the rt., in the midst of a well-cultivated plain, lie the villages of Elguera and La Serna. 2 m. Santa Cruz Stat. Pop. 1731. a beautiful valley surrounded by verdurous hills. 1 m. Las Fraguas Stat. Obs. to the 1. a modern country mansion surrounded by walled-in gardens, belonging to the Marquis de Moriana. Near it is a square tower which forms part of what once was a manorial palace. Four tunnels are here passed, and 5 m. Los Corrales Stat. Pop. 1951. 3 m. Las Caldas de Besaya Stat. Here is a Thermal Establishment: the mineral waters (chlor. sod.) are very efficacious in paralytic disorders. Besides El Establecimiento there are several comfortable lodging-houses, and the walks in the neighbourhood are pleasant. In the monastery there is an ancient image of the Virgin, rendered hideous by a modern dress. A delightful walk may be taken from here to the village of Yermo, about 3 m. The view from the summit before reaching the village is superb. Visit the small church of Yermo: the village itself is like Arcadia. The church is of the 12th centy. Outside are interesting stone carvings, representing St. George and the signs of the zodiac. At the entrance to the rt. is the inscription: EREMOS XTI DE SANTA MARIA ESTA IGLESA PETRO QUINTANA ME FECIT PATER NOSTER POR SA AÎMA. 4m. Torrelavega Stat. Posada : Viuda de Carral; 16 rs. per day; De Tiburcio. This is the station to which the diligences from Asturias carry their passengers. A small café supplying indifferent food stands opposite the railway station. The town, nearly 2 m. distant, is well built and has a thriving aspect. It would be good headquarters for an angler. Diligences leave the station for dif ferent routes, and the country abounds with fine walks and rides, and troutfishing may be had very near the town. Near Torrelavega are the Real Asturiana Calamine Mines of Riocin. Pop. 7187. The town is situated 2 m. from the stat. and below it in the centre of a magnificent plain. Soon after leaving this stat. the rly. crosses the Rio Paz by an iron bridge to 4 m. Renedo Stat. From hence there is an omnibus service during the season to the baths of Alceda and Ontaneda. (See Rte. 25.) 6 m. Guarnizo Stat. Pop. 250. To the rt. the Bay of Santander is seen. 1 m. Boó Stat. Pop. 400. Near this stat. (to the rt.) are the Royal dockyards, called el Astillero de Guarnizo, where ships of any tonnage can be built. Three miles from Astillero are the saline waters of Solares, highly recommended for gastralgic disorders. Hence opens out a splendid panorama, comprising views of Santander, the sea, &c. Approaching the city the works and warehouses of the Railway Company are passed to the 1. 5 m. Santander. Terminus. Inns: Fonda Suiza; Fonda de Francia. Charges about 30 r. a day. Fonda del Comercio, on the Muelle (quay). Fonda de Europa. Strangers in fine weather should prefer the hotels at the Magdalena and Sardinero. Fare from either place for a carriage from the railway station, 12 rs. Café Suizo, on the Muelle (quay). Theatre. Built in 1837 out of the old convent San Agustin: it accommodates 1000 visitors. Prices:-palco, 30 r.; stall, 8 r. Public Gardens. At Toca and Mazarrasa: in these pleasure resorts bailes campestres are frequently given during the summer. § 2. CARRIAGES, TRAMWAY, BULL-RING. Carriages to be taken to the Sardinero, 2 r. each person. Good carriages. Francisco Laura, Calle del 24 de Setiembre. Tramway to the Sardinero and round the town, starting from the Plaza del Príncipe. Bull-ring. Built in 1859. Places for 8000 spectators. Fights in the month of September. 3. POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICE, CLUBS, CONSULS, BANKER, PROTESTANT CHAPEL. Post-office on the Plazuela de Becedo. Telegraph-office in the Casa de la Torrente, Muelle de las Naos. Open day and night. Círculo del Recreo, Muelle 11. Strangers admitted on introduction by a member. Regatta Club. Foreign papers. This society has done a great deal towards encouraging regattas, and preparing lifeboats and help for boats in distress. English Vice-Consul. Lieutenant March, R.N., on the quay. U.S.A. Consul. A. H. Harrison. § 4. NOTICE, HISTORY. Santander (Pop. 40,432) is a thriving seaport town, situated on a wide estuary opening to the east, and separated from the sea by a rocky promontory which gives good shelter from N. and N.W. winds. On the side of this promontory, facing the Atlantic, is the Sardinero, where there are several hotels and a Casino with reading-room, &c., besides several lodging-houses. Close at hand, but facing south, is the bathing establishment of La Magdalena, with an excellent hotel kept by a Frenchman. M. Fourneau charges 9 fr. a day for meals at table d'hôte at 12 and 8 P.M., 10 fr. a day for meals served apart. A small railway connects these places with the town about a mile distant, and a little steamer plies also from the Magdalena. The quay and handsome modern houses give Santander rather a French than a Spanish look. The busy quay (Muelle), with its cotton bales, hogsheads of sugar, flour-barrels, and bustle, con trasts with the fishy poverty of the concerns. The environs of Santander are pleasant, and studded with country houses and orchards, whilst the orange-tree and citron grow luxuriantly. The freshaired walks on the hill command beautiful views over the Ria, the Muelle de las Naos, and the Castillo de San Felipe. The promenades are charming the Paseo del Sardinero leads to the bathing establishment, and to the lighthouse; the Alamedas Primera and Segunda are the most fashionable promenades. Santander was the scene of an engagement between the revolutionary troops and the royalist forces, commanded by General Calonge, during the short and feeble struggle made on behalf of ex-Queen Isabel, in Sept, 1868. Santander is the residence of the provincial authorities, and the see of a bishop-suffragan to Burgos-which was founded (1174) by Alonso IX. § 5. CATHEDRAL, TOBACCO MANU FACTORY. The Cathedral is Gothic: its curious crypt is called la Capilla del Cristo de Abajo; it has also three aisles, and is of a very fine effect, although it was barbarously repainted in 1874. On its altar are preserved the heads of the martyrs San Emeterio and San Celedonio, decapitated at Cala Rte. 160). The baptismal font in this cathedral is an Arabian one, with an Arabic inscription, like the Pope's chair at St. Peter's, in Rome. It was probably brought from Andalucia after Seville was taken by St. Ferdinand. Vessels from Santander joined in this siege. The cloister of the Cathedral is good, and the tower, built on a pointed arch, is pleasing in effect. Visit the Tobacco Manufactory: it was originally el Convento de Santa Cruz, and employs more than 1000 persons in the manufacture of cigars, of which 796,000 Klg. are turned out annually. Santander was probably the Roman Portus Blendium; it has long been a seaport from hence, in 1248, St. Ferdi-horra about the year 300 A.D. (see nand's fleet sailed to blockade Seville, which is commemorated upon the city arms. Here Charles V. landed July 16, 1522, to take possession of Spain; and from the same quay our Charles I. embarked to quit Spain after his romantic visit to Madrid: he arrived here on the 11th Sept., 1623 (old style, i.e. on St. Matthew's day, the 21st). and was nearly drowned on Friday the 12th (22nd), when going on board his ship: he sailed on the 17th of the same month, and landed at Portsmouth on the 5th of October (Sunday) to the inexpressible joy of the English nation, although 26 years afterwards his then loyal subjects were equally ready to assist at his execution. Santander was made a puerto habilitado (a port entitled to trade with South America) in 1753, and in 1755 it was declared a ciudad (or city). The place was cruelly sacked by Soult, Nov. 16th, 1808; but, in spite of this ferocious treatment, the authorities exhibited the most offensive behaviour to the English, their allies. Again in 1834, when General Sir De Lacy Evans landed with his legion, they refused the barest necessities to those brave men whose assistance they had themselves implored. [Spain, 1882.] § 6. EXCURSIONS. Excursions. Walk or drive out to the mineral spring de la Salud, distant 2 m.: it is much frequented from June to October for visceral disorders. Visit also the Astillero de Guarnizo (Royal Dockyard). Boats every hour from the quay: tariff 1 r. Geologists may visit the Cave of Camargo, 4 m. from Santander, where a great number of interesting fossil remains of all kinds were discovered in 1880. N |