his intention, and consequently made | cumstances the two armies embraced further efforts to gain the Rodrigo the oval basin formed by the ridges of road before Wellington should be able hills. The north and west half of to. In this effort he overreached him- the basin formed the Allies' position. self, and giving Wellington an oppor- The eastern heights were held by the tunity for attack, brought on the battle French, and Thomière was moving of Salamanca. Marmont had with him along the south, but with a wide loose 42,000 men and 74 guns, and Welling- march. The forest to the south-east ton commanded 46,400, of whom 3,500 of the Arapiles was to cover the French were Spaniards, and 60 guns. centre, but this was not yet occupied. Thomière's artillery opened fire, and it seemed that the Allies' position was surrounded. Wellington, who had retired for refreshment, returned at three P.M., and seeing Thomière gradually increasing his distance from the rest of the army on his right, determined to profit immediately from his error. Some troops from the English Arapiles, and those concealed in the hollows and breaks, rushed into the basin and formed line of battle. Marmont then ordered Thomière's division to halt, and assaulted the English Arapiles with Bonnet's division. At five P.M. Pakenham, issuing from the woods about Aldea Tejada, fell like a thunderbolt on Thomière's leading troops, killing Thomière himself, and, with the assistance of the cavalry, completely routing the whole division. At the same time Bonnet's attack was repulsed. On the morning of the 22nd Wellington made preparations for his retreat, hiding his forces in the rugged ground to the south-east of Salamanca. Marmont sent a force against the Arapiles or Hermanitos, two hills due east of the village of Arapiles, a little distant from his left and the English right. Rushing up the easternmost of these, the French captured it, and almost gained the western. On the latter Wellington remained during the day. The waggons were now in motion, and raising a dust, caused Marmont to imagine that the English retreat to Rodrigo would be secured before he could interpose. Therefore, thinking that his position on the Arapiles would cause Wellington to retire, Marmont brought up Foy's and Feroy's divisions, placing the first between the French Arapiles and N. Señora de la Peña, and the second on a ridge behind Foy's, to hasten the The troops from Babila Fuente had movement. At the same time the now pushed through the forest and French right was ordered to close in covered Thomière's division while it through the forest between the Arapiles rallied. Pack, with his Portuguese, and Babila Fuenta. Wellington was now assailed the French Arapiles, but thus caused to change his front, his was repulsed and well-nigh routed. former front becoming his rear, and Clausel, who on Marmont retiring his left his right. Breaks and hollows wounded, had taken command of the screened his men, and the few that French, having secured his line of could be seen by the French seemed retreat, determined to make one last to point to the Rodrigo road. Still effort to save the day. On a ridge of the French right did not arrive, and hills opposite the village of Arapiles Marmont, fearing the Allies would the fourth and fifth divisions were effect their retreat before his disposi-posted, and the French dashing up the tions were complete, ordered Thomière's hill won the ridge and crossed it. division from the left to make a flank Pouring down the other side, they met movement and threaten the Rodrigo with a check from the gallantry of the road; then hastening his other divi-61st and 11th Regiments, and, attacked sions, he waited till Wellington should move to oppose Thomière, designing, when he should, to fall on him by the village of Arapiles with six divisions and Boyer's dragoons. In these cir in flank by the 53rd, lost the ground they had won. The Reserves being now brought up by Wellington, the French were forced to retreat along their whole line. Clausel posted the remnants of Thomière's ill-fated division on a steep ridge in the forest, covering the Alba de Tormes road, and commenced slowly to retire. This force was commanded by Maucune, who fought with the full knowledge that the safety of the army depended on his efforts. The Allies attempted time after time to gain his position, but not till the retreat was secure did he relinquish it. Had the Spaniards still held Alba de Tormes, the destruction of the French army would have been complete, but "Wellington had defeated 40,000 men in 40 minutes." After the battle, while riding behind the 43rd Regiment, he was struck in the thigh with a spent bullet, and his adversaries, Marmont, Thomière, and Bonnet were all badly wounded. The French in the battle lost 12,000 men; the Allies 5,200, of whom 3,176 were British. The prize was 11 guns, many waggons, 6,500 prisoners, two eagles, and many standards. Wellington was made a Marquis, and received a grant of £100,000 to purchase estates. The results of this victory were that the road to Valladolid was open, and that Soult, raising the siege of Cadiz, evacuated the south of Spain. But its influence reached wider, for Napoleon, hearing in the heart of Russia of the defeat of Marmont, held it an omen of evil, while the Russians and Germans were proportionately encouraged to resistance. E. F. D. C. From Arapiles ride over the hills to Alba de Tormes (8 m.). Inn: Posada de Francisco Acebedo; small and humble, but clean and decent. Pop. 2751. This ancient little town rises above the river Tormes, and is commanded by the finely-placed palacecastle, with its now ruined towers and machicolations. It gives the ducal title to the family of Toledo; its bridge is after the manner of that at Toledo. Visit the Ch. of the Carmelitas descalzas, and obs. the noble sepulchres of Francisco Velazquez and Teresa his wife, also that of Simon Galarza, and that of Juan de Ovalle and Doña Juana, with a child kneeling at their feet. The stately shrine, raised in 1750, forms the centre portion of the retablo, and contains the relics of Santa Teresa herself, the sainted founder of the convent. Amongst the pictures by unknown artists obs. a San Vicente de Paul, the death of Santa Teresa (in the sacristy), and the taking the veil by Santa Teresa (also in the sacristy). Near the town is the Geronimite Convent, containing the tomb of Gutierrez Alvarez, Archb. of Toledo. The traveller can return by the good direct diligence-road, passing through park-like scenery, groves of oaks and olive-trees, to Salamanca. B. To the Baths of Fuente del Caño (10 m.); road tolerably good; it passes through Aldea Luenga and Huerta (Pop. 438) to Bablia Fuente (Pop. 1032), near which are the mineral springs; tolerable accommodation during the season. C. To the Baths of Ledesma, 18 m. Pop. 2876. Diligence service during the season (15th June to 15th September). The road passes through the villages of Tejares (Pop. 349), Carrasca de Barrega, and Parador de Arriba (Pop. 409), to El Establecimiento, which is situated about 5 miles from the village of Ledesma. The sulphurous springs lie ensconced in a wooded dell in the immediate vicinity of the river Tormes; they are several in number, and the hot mineral water is abundant. It is used both externally and internally. Rheumatism, gout, and every kind of skin disease can be beneficially treated here. The neighbourhood affords excellent shooting and fishing: hares, rabbits, partridges, abound, whilst the hawk, the vulture, and an occasional eagle, may also be shot by naturalistic sportsmen. The district is of great antiquity, and the chief town, Ledesma (the Bletissa of the Romans), has a picturesque and feudal appearance. singular walls are considered to date anterior to the time of the Romans. The town stands on the Tormes, which Its is crossed by a fine bridge, built on by Chindasvintus in the middle of the Roman foundations. There is a railway in construction to the frontier of Portugal, by Ledesma and Hinojosa. ROUTE 19. MEDINA DEL CAMPO TO ZAMORA. 8th centy. Although it has been much altered, it still preserves much of the primitive structure. In the relicario may be seen two wooden painted caskets of the 15th centy. The Hornija and the Bajoz are now crossed. 5 m. Toro Stat. Inns: Casa de Huespedes; Victoriano del Piñero, Calle del Sol. 11., fair. Pop. 7761. This ancient and decayed city, like Salamanca, takes its bridge, and a "canting Toro," one. of the Guisando breed, for its arms. From its grand bridge we behold those Almenas de Toro, chanted by Lope de Vega. La Colegiata is a fine Romanesque ch. with nave, two aisles and two transepts. The most striking feature of this building is the central tower, domed internally, and of 16 sides externally with 32 windows, two on 55 m. rail.; one train daily each each of its sides. The aspect, inside way in 3 hrs. See Indicador.' Medina del Campo Stat. Pop. 5123. (See Rte. 1.) Soon after leaying Medina, the Rly. crosses the Rio Zapardiel on an iron bridge. 7 m. Villaverde Stat. Pop. 840. The neighbourhood produces a good white wine. 3 m. Nava del Rey Stat. Pop. 5986. Obs. its fine ch. The neighbourhood produces a wine, which almost equals sherry in taste and in keeping qualities. 13 m. Venta de Pollos Stat. Pop. 1172. The river Trabancos is here crossed on a fine iron bridge. The surrounding country is well wooded with oak and mulberry trees. Obs., soon after passing this stat., the white country residence of the Marquis de la Espeja, proprietor of the country around Pollos. m. Castroñuno Stat. Pop. 2424. The plain is here very fertile, being watered by the Duero. The rly. now crosses the river upon an iron bridge. 6 m. San Roman Stat. Pop. 1057. At San Roman there is an interesting ch. dedicated to San Roman, founded and out, is most picturesque. The ancient Romanesque doorway of the principal façade on the W. side, is another of the most important objects of the ch. It is formed of 7 orders completely covered with sculptures, among which is the Last Judgment, and different subjects from the Life of the Virgin. This doorway is in perfect preservation owing to the ch. having been prolonged in the 16th centy., and the doorway was then converted into a high altar. Some of the statues still have traces of the original colour with which they were painted. A Gothic wooden retablo with carved canopies has been added to this altar. The principal doorway is now to the N.; it is also Romanesque and has three concentric arches covered with sculptures and ornamentation. The S. doorway is less fine. In the Capilla Mayor are the tombs of the family of Fonseca. Among them is that of the warrior Bishop Don Alonso, who accompanied the army of Ferdinand and Isabel at the battle of Toro. The Romanesque capitals inside the ch. are very remarkable; obs. three near the presbytery and the Gothic statues outside the coro. In the sacristy may be seen jewels and vestments given in 1486 by a member of the Fonseca family; a good | rebels in 1356, by Don Pedro in persilver custodia, the work of Juan Gayo son: he entered it by la Puerta Santa in 1538. Part of the custodia, the Catalina. Near it was fought the viril, is of an earlier date, and of great battle between Alonso V. of Portugal interest. The pictures are indifferent, and Ferdinand I. of Castile (A.D. 1476); with the exception of a good painting by which victory the faction of La of the German school, which hangs Beltraneja was destroyed, the defeat of over the entrance doorway: it repre- Aljubarota was avenged, and the crown sents the Virgin seated reading with of Castile secured to Isabella. Here the Infant Saviour; at her feet Saint again was held (Jan. 1506) the celeCatherine. Over the altar in this sa- brated Cortes by which, after the death cristy there is a bas-relief in marble of Isabella, the regal authority of Ferof the Adoration of the Magi. dinand was recognised. It was at Toro that the Conde Duque, the disgraced minister of Philip IV., died in 1643, haunted, as he imagined, by a spectre -the ghost of his country's departed greatness which he had himself mainly contributed to destroy. Here, in 1327, Alonso XI. caused the Infante Don Juan to be put to death. Hospital de la Cruz (vulgo del obispo). In a chapel of the patio there is a good retablo of the 16th centy. of the Spanish early school of painting. In Santa Catalina there is a fine wooden roof and two good figures of the realistic school of the style of Juni representing San Pedro. Above the high altar there is a splendid ivory crucifix, a good specimen of its kind. The Colegio de los Escolapios has a good patio in the plateresque style, which has been lately restored. The parish Ch. of San Lorenzo may also be visited. The brick façade is good, and the Gothic paintings of the retablo of interest; they are probably by Gallegos, but unfortunately they are in a very dilapidated condition and half hidden by a hideous retablo. Twenty-two only are visible. The eight panels in the centre are larger than those on the sides. The lower ones represent the Life of Our Lord, and the upper the Martyrdom of St. Lawrence, the side panels contain figures of saints. A grandson of Peter the Cruel is buried there. The ch. of San Julian de los Caballeros contains an interesting carved pulpit of the 16th centy. The architect should visit the Palace of the Marques de Santa Cruz. Obs. the magnificent ceiling of the Salon de los Leyes, where it is said the Cortes de Toro were held in 1371, 1442, and 1505; La Torre del Reloj, the house of Los Fonsecas, and the Casa del Ayuntamiento, in the Plaza de la Constitucion, which was built by Ventura Rodriguez. Toro was once a city of considerable importance. It was taken from the From Toro the rly. follows the course of the Duero, which is to the 1.; it passes through deep cuttings to 13 m. Correses Stat., Pop. 1222, surrounded by vineyards. The rly. now crosses the Rio Valderaduey to 7 m. Zamora Stat., Pop. 14,229. Buffet. Inn: La Salamanquina (see Rte. 15). ROUTE 20. VALLADOLID TO TORO, BY SIMANCAS The tolerable diligence-road leaves Valladolid by the Puente Mayor. Half-way to Simancas is the Romanesque Ch. of Arroyo de la Encomienda, well worth visiting; it is in good preservation. 7 m. Simancas. Casa de Huespedes del Hojalatero, bad. It is best therefore to sleep at Valladolid and drive to Simancas. Pop. 1258. This little 12 m. Tordesillas. Inn: Parador de Val de Huertos. Pop. 3694. This town and ancient fortress holds an important strategic position: its old Gothic arched bridge over the Duero is very picturesque; obs. the striking view obtained from it; you have the old town hanging on a declivity, with the ch. of San Antolin, with its belfries, in the centre, and the noble terraces of masonry, the massive chapel of Santa Clara, and the lofty ch. of San Juan, on either side. The town contains six parish churches, amongst which visit town is situated upon the Rio Pisuerga, which is crossed by a fine bridge of 17 arches. The town is girdled by walls. In the moated castle rising on N.W. side of the town are kept the national archives, which were removed hither at the suggestion of Cardinal Ximenez. It was upon the battlements of this building that the famous alcalde Ronquillo hung up Antonio de Acuña, bishop of Zamora, who had joined the Comuneros. The collection consists of over 100,000 bundles. They are placed in 46 rooms. Mr. Gachard and Mr. Tiran were the first who were allowed in 1841 to inspect the papers. Formerly the greatest jealousy existed in regard to these archives; now, how-superb marble sepulchre of the Comenever, more liberality is shown, and mere visitors are allowed free admission from 8 A.M. to 1 P.M. For special permission to copy, &c., apply to the SeñorArchivero Mayor, who is obliging and speaks French. Readers of Spanish history will remember Gustav Bergenroth and his able volumes published by the Master of the Rolls (Calendar of State Papers -Spanish. Vol. i. 1485-1509, vol. ii. 1509-1525, Sup. to vol. i. and ii.*) In a memoir of Mr. Bergenroth by Cartwright, Edinburgh, 1870, full details are given of these archives and the trouble he went through to obtain the cypher of the documents he published. In the plain below Simancas, king| Ramiro defeated the Moors on the 19th July, 934 (some say 939), killing 30,000, 60,000, or as others say, 80,000; and no wonder, for two angels on white horses are said to have fought upon the side of the Spaniards! (vide Mariana, viii. 5). Simancas defended Enrique IV. against the league in 1465. The Irish rebel, Hugh Roe O'Donnell, died here (September 10th, 1602), having fled from his country after the defeat of Kinsale. From Simancas the road traverses the valley of the Pisuerga, passing the villages of Villamarcial, Villanueva, de Duero, and San Miguel de Pino, to *These volumes are now edited by Don Pascual de Gayangos, who has published four more volumes of this series. The Ch. of San Antolin: its retablo contains a fine Crucifixion, probably by Juan de Juni. Obs. also in this ch. the dador de la orden de San Juan, Pedro Gonzalez de Alderete; it is the masterpiece of Gaspar, a local sculptor, equal to Berruguete, and was wrought in 1527: it is designed in the style of the royal tombs at Granada, with caryatides at angles, and other figures and cinquecento ornaments; the Comendador lies armed, with his helmet at his feet. The Nunnery of Santa Clara, which overlooks the river, should be visited next. The Retablo is said to have belonged to Juan II., in the four sepulchres in niches; two of them contain female figures, a third is an armed knight, and the fourth is a figure in a turban. The architect Guillem de Roam is buried near these sepulchres: he died Dec. 7th, 1431. Obs. also in this convent the gilt artesonado ceiling of the chancel, and the Chapel of Esteban Lopez de Saldaña, which was completed in 1435: notice the sepulchre of the founder; it was sadly mutilated by the French, nevertheless the head escaped, and is full of character and intelligence. In a building adjoining this convent, Juana la Loca (crazy Jane), the mother of Charles V., died, April 12th, 1555, at the age of 76, after 49 years of imprisonment, suggested by her father Ferdinand, and persevered in by her son Charles V. She occupied a small cell, without windows, rarely permitted to see the sun. The story that she spent her time watching her hus |