Archbishop Tenorio, on the site of Bautismal, where the font is made the Alcana or Jews' market. As the Israelites would not sell this coveted Naboth's vineyard, the pious prelate instigated the mob in the year 1389 to burn the houses of the unbelievers, and he then raised this beautiful enclosure on their foundations. Part of the walls were painted at the end of the 11th century by Bayeu and Maella, the old fresco paintings being much damaged in the cloister. Visit the Capilla de San Blas. It takes a great deal of trouble to get the keys. In the retablo is a grand picture, painted in 1584 by Luis de Velasco, by whom also is the Incarnation, which is not the work of Blas del Prado; it represents the Virgin, Saints, and the armed infante Fernando, who refused the crown on the death of Enrique III. The old frescoes inside the upper arches are of the 14th century. They belong to the school of Giotto, and may have been painted by Starnina. They must be looked at with attention, in the middle of the day, for the light is bad: they are of the highest interest. In the elegant tomb in the centre, the work of Fernan Gonzalez, lies the founder of the chapel, Archbishop Tenorio, ob. 1399. Near lies Arias, Bishop of Placencia, and the friend of Tenorio; the David and Lion are painted by Jordan. You ascend to the upper portion of the cloisters, which were finished by Ximenez, by a magnificent staircase. A door to the E. leads to the Sala Capitular de Verano, the summer chapterhouse, in which used to be kept three excellent pictures, called la Espada, el Pajaro, and el Pez; these were painted in 1584 by Velasco, although they have long been erroneously attributed to Blas del Prado: they are now in the chapel under the finished tower. The different gates or entrances to these cloisters deserve notice. The beautiful Puerta de Santa Catalina, with its recessed arch inside, was built by Gutierrez de Cardenas, who with his son are placed adoring the Virgin de la Antigua, his wife and daughter being opposite. Look then at the Capilla de la Pila from part of the destroyed bronze of Luna. La Puerta Nueva, or de la Presentacion, of the date 1565, is exquisite; it was wrought in the transition style from the Gothic to the plateresque, by Juan Manzano and four other sculptors. The Corinthian front has been, however, attributed to Berruguete. The Puerta de los Canonigos in la Capilla de la Torre, by Covarrubias, is in the same elegant transition style. The once beautiful plateresque gate del Nino Perdido, "of the lost child," which leads from the cloisters into the Calle Arco del Rey, was erected in 1565 by Toribio Rodriguez. This little Cupid of Spanish mythology has been the theme of many a pen and pencil. Obs. the fresco painting around the gate (inside), which represents the capture and the crucifixion of this typical child, by Jews. The library, a noble saloon, is well lighted, and free from dust; indeed, little enters here save the light and air of heaven. It contains a good collection of MSS.; a Bible of San Isidoro; the works of St. Gregory, in 7 vols. of the 13th century; a fine Talmud and Koran; a Greek Bible of the 10th centy.; an Esther in Hebrew; some MSS. of the time of Dante; a Pliny of the 10th centy., and a splendid Bible in several volumes illuminated for Cardinal Ximenez; and many others of the age of Leo X. The printed books, of which most are Italian, were given by Lorenzana, who bought them at Rome.* They were taken to Madrid by Zorilla during the Revolution, and many were never returned. § 12. ARCHBISHOP'S PALACE AND TOWN-HALL. In the W. Plaza of the cathedral is *The Holy Week ceremonies are very impressive at Toledo, and well worth seeing. At Corpus Christi the splendid tapestries are hung round the Cathedral during the octave, and the fine custodia and banners carried in procession. The Tutelar Saint's festival, San Ildefonso chapels, jewels, and choir must be seen after (Jan. 22), is also a great day at Toledo. The 2 P.M. the archbishop's palace, the fine portal Luz. of which was made by order of Tavera § 14. MOORISH MOSQUE; CRISTO DE LA for his Hospital de Afuera, but appropriated by his successor. There is In the Calle del Cristo de la Luz here a library open to the public. there is a small church, which is unThe adjoining Casa del Ayuntamiento, doubtedly one of the most interesting or mansion-house, was built by Domenico Greco. The large saloon upstairs buildings in Spain. It was originally is worth visiting for the sake of its similarity to the one at Cordova, is a mosque in miniature, and from its velvet hangings and furniture. It has anterior to the 11th centy. It is dibeen copied as a background by several vided into nine compartments by four distinguished artists. On the staircase circular columns, from the capitals of are some verses addressed to the municipality, desechad las aficiones, co-arches. One or two of the capitals which spring 16 round horseshoe dicias, amor y miedo, &c., excellent theories on paper, most excellently neglected in Spanish practice. century. § 15. CONVENTS AND CHURCHES. Not far from the Cristo de la Luz to the W. is the convent of Santo Domingo el Real, which must be visited early. The effect of the nuns in the choir is most picturesque. In the sacristia is a well preserved Christian sarcophagus of the 4th or 5th century. certainly belong to some Visigothic construction. The nine small vaults formed by the intersecting ribs are varied in design, and very remark§ 13. HOSPITAL OF SANTA CRUZ. able. Here Alonso VI. heard the first Near the Zocodover is the Hospital in 1035. This mosque was given to mass on entering Toledo as conqueror de la Santa Cruz, now converted into the Templars in 1186, and at that time a college for orphan sons and daughters of officers; it has not, however, the mural painting of Saints lately was added the brickwork apsis. Obs. been much injured by the transfor-discovered, belonging to the 13th mation, and continues to be one of the gems of the city. It was founded in 1504 by Pedro Mendoza, the great Cardinal de Santa Croce. No chasing of Benvenuto Cellini's can surpass in richness the portal, over which the Invention of the Cross is placed, with the kneeling founder and Santa Helena. The general style of the edifice is in the transition from florid Gothic to the classical and Renaissance. It was finished in 1514 by Enrique de Egas, for whose exquisite chisellings the creamy stone seems to have been created. A superb patio is enriched with the arms of the proud Mendoza, and their motto Ave Maria gratia plena. The staircase, which, with its ceilings, balustrades, &c., baffles description. The chapel, one fine long nave, is unfinished, nor is the altar placed where it was originally intended. There are some bad pictures by L. Giordano, and a portrait of the founder. San Pedro Martir, now a Poor House, has a grand patio 100 ft. square, with 3 tiers of galleries resting on carved arches and pillars. In the middle a Moorish wall. Visit also the nunnery of Santiago or Santa Fé, near the Zocodover. The nuns are ready to receive strangers, and a small contribution for the poor is gratefully received. The nuns, 15 in number, are noble ladies, Caballeras, and wear the white robes and red cross of the order of Santiago. The views from the mirador (balcony) and azotea are most charming; the interior has two fine patios, enriched with pillars and porcelain tiles: the chapel is elaborately decorated, and has a semi-Moresque oratory near the coro. In the Sala Capitular are some pictures, and a Dead Christ, attributed to Alonso Cano. San Juan de la Penitencia, in the S.E. quarter of the city, and founded for the Franciscan order by Cardinal Ximenez in 1511; the chapel is plain, I observe in Toledo; one peculiarity is and has been unfortunately white- the arrangement of the house portals, washed; the ceiling is of Moorish the soffits, projecting door-posts, lintels, artesonado character, but dilapidated. and cannon-ball ornaments. Here also is the tomb of Francisco Ruiz, Bishop of Avila, a friend of Ximenez, and by whom the edifice was completed. The hair of the seated females looks somewhat too large and turban-like, but the curtain raised by angels throws a fine sepulchral shadow over the prelate's effigy. The pillared retablo is filled with paintings, and the reja is good. The lovers of the fabulous may visit the cave of Hercules, in which Roderic, the last of the Goths, saw such portentous visions (see Southey's note, 54). The entrance lies near San Ginés, and was opened in 1546 by Archbishop Siliceo, but it has never since been properly investigated. The ecclesiologist should inquire for the beautiful Ionic chapel in the Bernardine convent of Santo Domingo de Silos. It was built by El Greco, who designed and painted most of the retablos. The Assumption of the Virgin which now exists is a copy, the original having been bought 40 years ago by the Infante Don Sebastian. In San Roman, especially in the tower, is some Moorish work and inscriptions, with singular arches and ancient pillars. From the tower Alonso VIII. was proclaimed. There are some strange mummies in the vaults. Near it, at San Clemente, there is a good cinquecento gate. In San Pedro Martir are some statues of Faith and Charity, and one of the tutelar in black and white marble. § 16. OLD HOUSES.* Inquire for and visit a dilapidated Moorish house, now a carpenter's shop, in the Calle de las Tornerias, near the church San Cristobal. Visit el Taller del Moro, now degraded to a workshop, where Ambron, the Moorish governor of Huesca, invited the refractory chiefs of Toledo to dinner, and, as each arrived, cut off their heads, to the tune of 400. Visit the Casa de Mesa, opposite the Ch. of San Roman, and obs. the room there which has been kept in a perfect state of preservation since the time of the Moors. § 17. SWORD MANUFACTORY. The once celebrated fabrica de armas, or manufactory of Toledan swords, is placed on the rt. bank of the Tagus about one mile S.W. of the city, not crossing the bridge; the view of Toledo from the doorway is fine. It is shown to visitors; it is, however, hardly worth a visit, for it takes up a great deal of time. The huge rectangular unsightly building was raised for Charles III. by Sabatini in 1788, and is well provided with forges, &c. The chapel is dedicated to Santa Barbara, the patroness of cannons. All the armas blancas for the army of Spain are made here: the choicest Toledan blades are of a fine temper and polish, and are so elastic, that they are sometimes packed up in boxes curled up like the mainspring of a watch, or "compassed," as Falstaff says, "like a good Bilboa, in the circumference of a peck, hilt to point, heel to head." Many fine works The architect will have much to of art have been made at the Fabrica, and small objects of inlaid ironwork *Full details will be found in the Memorias' may be bought there. Visitors who of Eugenio, Larruga, vols. 5 to 10. • Historia del Toledo,' Pedro de Rojas, Conde de Mora, fol. do not go there will, however, find a 2 vols., Mad. 1654-63; Los Reyes Nuevos de great choice at a shop in the Cuatro Toledo,' Christobal Loranzo, 4to., Mad. 1764; Calles. The owner, Don Mariano Esp. Sag.' v. vi.; Ponz, Viage,' i.; Toledo en Alvarez, is an artist of great merit. la mano,' Sisto Parro, Tol. 1857, accurate and valuable. There is also a small compendio The manufactory of artistic silks at of this work; and Toledo Pintoresca, José Toledo for church vestments constituted Amador de los Rios, Mad. 1845; Album Artis-one of the greatest industries in Spain. tico de Toledo,' Manual Assas, is valuable for Only one remains, belonging to S. Molero, established at the beginning the accurate translations from the Arabic by P. de Gayangos. of the 18th century. The silks woven with gold made there are very fine; some specimens exist at the South Kensington Museum. As Toledo was the capital of the S. frontier of Spain, it was well defended against the Moors by medieval fortresses. The hilly lines of the Montes de Toledo, Sierra del Duque, &c., with the moat rivers of the Tagus and Guadiana, formed noble sites for defence. These wild and picturesque scenes, which never have been properly investigated, well deserve notice from the artist and antiquarian. Among the chief castles are those of Montalban and Torrijos. § 18. EXCURSIONS. A horseback excursion can be made from Toledo to the village of Guadamur (7 m.), where is a very compact castle on a small scale, but externally well preserved, with bartizan angular turrets to the keep. The ruined rooms have some Gothic inscriptions. The arms of the Counts of Fuen-Salida, over the entrance, indicate Pedro Lope de Ayala, the first count and favourite of Enrique IV. Not far from Guadamur were found in 1858 the Visigothic gold votive crowns now to be seen at the Hotel de Cluny and Armeria at Madrid. The castles of Almonacid and Orgaz may be conveniently visited by rail, Rte. 70; take a local guide, and attend to the provend; the former lies to the S.E., on the road to Madridejos, and is about 9 m. from Toledo. (For Toledo to Talavera de la Reina by Cabañas, see Rte. 12.) ROUTE 4A. MADRID TO ARANJUEZ. Railway to Aranjuez in 1 hr.; 4 trains daily.-To Toledo in 3 hrs.; 2 trains daily. The route, as far as Aranjuez, is described in Rte. 123. 30 m. Aranjuez. Inns: Fonda del Infante; Fonda de Milaneses. Many persons stop here in going to or returning from Toledo. Toledo travellers must make an arrangement if they intend to stay at these hotels, as they are apt to overcharge. Pop. 8155. station on the arrival of the trains. Carriages may be procured at the Fares, 16 reals the first hour, 14 reals the second, 10 r. the course. It is, however, advisable to settle the terms beforehand. N.B.-To see the palace and gardens, should be procured either at Madrid, and the Casa del Labrador, an esquela or of the Administrador del Real sitio in Aranjuez. Aranjuez is placed at the confluence of the rivers Tagus and Jarama. have built villas in the neighbourhood: Several wealthy and noble families the Marquis of Miraflores, Marquis of Salamanca, &c. ARANJUEZ- ara Jovis was originally, in the 14th centy., the summer residence of Lorenzo Suarez de Figueroa, Maestre de Santiago. It became a royal property when the mastership was merged in the crown under Ferdinand and Isabella. Charles V., in 1536, made it a shooting-villa, and Philip II. employed Herrera to construct additional buildings. Much, however, was burnt by a fire, and more taken down by Philip V., who rebuilt a por tion à la Française, leaving Charles | the visitor round the lions of the Isla; III., Charles IV., and Ferdinand VII. to finish it. The palace is placed near the Tagus, at the Madrid end of the village. A bald Plaza de San Antonio, a sort of French Place du Carrousel, with a corredor and iron railing, affords space for dust and glare. The interior of the palace contains some indifferent pictures, and fresco ceilings by Jordan, Mengs, Maella, the poor Conrado Bayeu, and others. There are, however, three interesting pictures by Bosch (Jerome van Aeken), a painter of the beginning of the 16th century. almost unknown out of Spain. They represent fantastic subjects and allegories in the style of Brueghel, which were much praised by the authors of his time. China fanciers should particularly examine the porcelain gabinete, fitted up by Charles III., with the finest specimens known of Buen Retiro porcelain. The walls of this room are entirely covered with large plaques of porcelain, representing in high relief groups of Japanese figures; they are beautifully painted and modelled. The looking-glasses, made at La Granja, add to the effect. The frames are composed of fruits and flowers. The artist who painted and modelled this room was Joseph Gricci, 1763, who was one of the artists brought over by Charles III. of Naples, when he established at Madrid in 1759 the fabric of Buen Retiro which existed previously at Capo de Monte. This porcelain is marked with the Fleur de Lis in colours, or gold: look also at the room in imitation of Las Dos Hermanas of the Alhambra. The mirrors and marqueterie of this palace are fine. The look-out on the gardens over the parterre, the Jardines del Principe y de la Isla, with its shady avenues of oriental planes and cascades, is charming. Here, in spring, all the nightingales of Spain seem collected: and how sweet is "the melodious noise of birds among the spreading branches, and the pleasing fall of water running violently." The gardener will take one of the fountains was painted by Velazquez, but is not now to be recognised; the others are fine, and play on great holidays and royal birthdays. The best objects to observe are the Puerta del Sol, the Fountain of the Swan, la Cascada, Labyrinth, Swiss mountain, Neptune, Ceres, Bacchus, and the Tritons. The elms brought from England by Philip II. grow magnificently under this combined heat and moisture. They were the first introduced, says Evelyn, into Spain, where from their rareness they are as much admired as palm-trees are by us. One of them is shown, a gigantic tree, some 90 feet in girth. The Casa del Labrador, or labourer's cottage, is another plaything of that silly monarch Charles IV. This cottage is richly fitted up with china, marbles, tapestries, and platina-inlaid walls and doors. The walls of the back staircase are painted with scenes and subjects illustrating the costume, &c., at the time of Charles IV. The large saloon is painted by Maella. Obs. the malachite chair and table, a present from Prince Demidoff to the ex-Queen of Spain, Isabella. The chairs in the different rooms are worth notice. In one of these rooms there is an interesting collection of 20 ancient marble busts of Greek philosophers, brought hither by Charles III.* The Florera, or Jardin Ingles, was laid out by Richard Wall, an Irishman. It was at Aranjuez, March 19, 1808, that Charles IV., in order to protect his wife's minion Godoy, abdicated in favour of Ferdinand VII. Godoy, a saved to consummate his guilt by vile tool of Buonaparte's, was thus signing the transfer of Spain to France. The royal breeding establishments near Aranjuez, like those near Cordova, were almost destroyed by the invaders, but restored by Ferdinand the reigns of Charles III. and IV. will be found in the 1st vol. of Lord Auckland's Memoirs.' *An entertaining account of Aranjuez during |