supersedes the fire-place, and where his vivifying rays enter, the doctor goes out. Avoid the brasero, the pan of heated charcoal, the parent of headache and asphyxia; if cold, trust rather to additional clothing than to charcoal; keep your feet warm and the head cool, by avoiding exposure to midday sun and midnight bottle: above all things, carry not the gastronomics of the cold North into the hot South. Live as the natives do, consuming little meat and less wine; sleep the midday siesta as they do, and avoid rash exposure to the delicious cool night breezes. Sleep high in low grounds and marshy districts, avoiding the ground-floor, as the poisonous malarias of fine climates creep on earth, and more so by night, when they are condensed, than by day; throw physic to the dogs, avoiding constipation, and trusting to diet and quiet. Cod-liver oil may as well be taken out by consumptive travellers, as it is dear and indifferent in Spain. When you have letters of introduction to any Spaniards, both ladies and gentlemen should be very particular to be well dressed on the first visit of etiquette: black is the correct colour of ceremony. Call yourself with your credentials. If the parties called upon be out, leave your credentials and card, turning down a corner of the card, which means that you have called in person. When you ring at the door, probably an unseen person will exclaim, “Quien es?” "Who's there?" The correct countersign is, "Gente de paz," "Persons of peace." As the first visit is always formal, observe how you are treated, and practise the same behaviour exactly when the call is returned. You will be conducted to the best room, the sala de estrado, and then led up to the sofa, and placed on the right hand. Great care will be taken of your hat-type of grandeeship-which a well-bred Spaniard seizes and seats on a chair as if it were a person; or insist on your putting it on: "Cubrase V." is the highest compliment that can be paid to a friend. Be careful to pay this compliment always to the beaver of your visiting friend. When you get up to take leave, if of a lady, you should say, "A los pies de V. (usted), Señora," "My lady, I place myself at your feet; " to which she will reply, "Beso á V. la mano, Caballero," "I kiss your hand, Sir:" " Vaya V. con Dios, que V. lo pase bien," "May you depart with God, and continue well;" to which you must reply, "Quede V. con Dios," "May you remain with God." Ladies seldom rise in Spain to receive male visitors; they welcome female ones with kisses both at coming and going. On leaving a Spaniard's house, observe if he thus addresses you, "Esta casa está muy á la disposicion de V. cuando guste favorecerla," "This house is entirely at your disposal, whenever you please to favour it." Once thus invited, you become a friend of the family. If the compliment be omitted, it is clear that the owner never wishes to see you again. When a lady makes a visit, a well-bred host gives her his arm to the door of her carriage. Remember always to pay a visit of ceremony to your male and female friends on their birthdays, or el dia de su santo, and to attend to your costume and put on your best black: on New Year's day bring some small gift with you, as an aguinaldo. In walking with a Spaniard, if you wish to show him respect, take care to let him be inside, nearest the wall the same nicety of relative position should be observed in seating him on a sofa or in a carriage. A well-bred man when he meets a lady always makes way for her, passing outside; although the strict rule in street-walking, which, from their narrowness and the nice point of honour of touchy passengers, has been well defined, is that whoever has the wall on his or her right hand is entitled to keep it. On passing soldiers on duty, remember that the challenge of a Spanish sentry is "Quien vive?" The answer is " España." Then follows 66 Que gente? The answer is "Paisano." The sooner and clearer strangers answer the better, as silence rouses suspicion; and in Spain, in times of revolution, a shot often precedes any explanation. When you meet your Spanish friends, stop, and attend carefully to the whole process of greetings in the market-place. These things are not done there in our curt and off-hand way,-How are you? You must inquire after the gentleman's own health, that of his wife (como está mi Señora la esposa de V.), his children, et cetera, and then you will be thought to be a hombre tan formal y cumplido como nosotros, that is, as well-bred as a Spaniard. If when walking with a Spaniard you pass your own house, do not fail to ask him whether he will not step in and rest himself a little, "No quiere V. entrar en esta su casa, y decansar un ratito?" You beg him to come into his, not your house, for thus you offer it to him. ; This offering obtains throughout. If a Spaniard admire anything belonging to another, his friend instantly places it at his disposal, está muy á la disposicion de V. The proper reply is a bow, and some sort of speech like this: Gracias, está muy bien empleado, or Gracias, no puede mejorarse de dueño. ("Thanks, it is already in excellent hands it cannot better its master by any change.") In like manner, and especially when outside cities, if any Spaniards pass by when you are lunching, picnicking, or eating, never fail to invite them to share your meal, by saying, Gustan ustedes comer? ("Will your graces be pleased to dine?") To omit this invitation is a flagrant breach of the laws of hospitality nor is it always a mere compliment on their part, for every class of Spaniard is flattered if you will partake of their fare. However, it is safer to decline with the set speech, Muchas gracias, buen provecho le haga á ustedes. Never at all events, in this or on other occasions, omit these titular compliments. In towns there is scarcely any dinner society, and luckily; nor is such an invitation the usual compliment paid to a stranger, as with us. Spaniards, however, although they seldom bid a foreigner, will accept his bidding. It is necesary, however, to "press them greatly ;" for the correct national custom is to decline. Remember also to apply a gentle violence to your guest, to induce him to eat, and if you are dining with him, let your stomach stretch a point; for unless you overeat yourself, he will fancy that you do not like his fare. It is the custom in cafés for one to pay for all his acquaintance who may be seated at his table he who asks his friends what they will take must discharge the account afterwards. Again, if you see friends of yours refreshing themselves in café or public promenade, pretty ladies, for instance, with whom you wish to stand well, you may privately tell the waiter that you will be answerable for their account. It is very easy afterwards, : when you meet with your fair friends, to let them infer who was their unknown benefactor. It was sometimes rather dangerous to accompany an extravagant Andaluza out shopping, á las tiendas, as a well-bred man of the old Spanish school was bound never to allow her to pay for anything. This custom, however, has got somewhat obsolete. All Spaniards are prodigal to each other in cheap names and titles of honour; thus even beggars address each other as Señor y Caballero, Lord and Knight. The most coveted style is Excellencia, your Excellency, or, as it is pronounced, Vuesencia: it only belongs to grandees and men in highest office. The next is Vuestra Señoria, your Lordship, of which the abbreviated form is Usia; this belongs to titulos de Castilla, to men who are titled, but not Grandees. It is, however, very seldom used, except by the lower classes, who, when they want to toady an Englishman, will often say, Por vida del demonio mas sabe Usia que nosotros" By the devil's life, your Lordship knows more than we do;" which, if a traveller has this Handbook, is very likely to be the fact, as the natives generally know nothing. The common form of You is Usted; vuestra merced, your grace. It is generally written simply V., or in older books Vind. If you do not know a Spaniard's Christian name, it is well-bred to insert the de, the German Von. Thus Señor de Muñoz is the appellation of a gentleman; Senor Muñoz that of a nobody. When the Christian name is used with the title Don (Dominus, Lord), this Don becomes exactly equivalent to our knightly Sir, and never must be prefixed to the patronymic by itself. Thus you must say Don Hernando Muñoz, and not Don Muñoz, which sounds as ridiculous and ignorant to Spanish ears as Sir Peel or Sir Murchison would to ours. Whilst discussing Spanish names we would call especial attention to the Spanish custom of affixing to the patronymic the maiden name of the mother, coupling the two with a "y." Take, for example, a man of the name of Juan Garcia y Rubio: his son by a lady of the name of Blanco (if baptized in the Christian name of the father) would become Juan Garcia y Blanco, whilst his son by a lady of the name of Gonzales would become Juan Garcia y Gonzales. In addressing a man in conversation it is usual to say, "Don Juan Garcia," dropping the mother's patronymic, but when writing his name his full paternal and maternal name must be given. Spaniards, when intimate, generally call each other by their Christian names, and a stranger may live among them and be known to all the town as "Don Ricardo," without half-a-dozen persons in it being aware of his family name. The custom of tuteur-the endearing tutoyer, unusual in England except among Quakers, although common in Germany and France-is very prevalent among familiar friends, and is habitual among grandees, who consider each other as primos, cousins. The forms of letter-writing differ also from ours. The correct place of dating from should be de esta su casa, from this your house, wherever it is; you must not say from this my house, as you mean to place it at the disposition of your correspondent; the formal Sir is Muy Señor mio; My dear Sir, is Muy Señor mio y de todo mi aprecio; My dear Friend, is Mi apreciable amigo: a step more in intimacy is querido amigo and querido Don Juan. All letters conclude after something in this fashion-quedando en el interin S. S. S. [su seguro servidor] Q. S. M. B. [que su mano besa]. This represents our "your most obedient and humble servant:" a more friendly form is, "Mande Vmd. con toda franqueza á este S. S. S. y amigo afmo. Q. S. M. B." When a lady is in the case, P. [pies] is substituted for M. [mano], as the gentleman kisses her feet. Ladies sign su servidora y amiga; clergymen, su S. S. y capellan; military men seldom omit their rank. Letters are generally directed thus:— Al Señor, Madrid. Most Spaniards append to their signature a Rubrica, which is a sort of intricate flourish, like a Runic knot or an Oriental sign-manual. The sovereign often only rubricates: then her majesty makes her mark, and does not sign her name. The traveller is advised at least to visit and observe the objects pointed out in the following pages, and never to be deterred by any Spaniard's opinion that they are "not worth seeing." He should not, however, neglect looking at what the natives consider to be worth a foreigner's attention. As a sight-seeing rule in towns, make out a list of the lions you wish to see, and let your lacquey de place arrange the order of the course, according to localities, proper hours, and getting proper permissions. As a general habit, ascend towers in towns to understand topography; visit the Plaza and chief markets to notice local fishes, fowls, fruits, and costumes-these are busy sites and scenes in the Peninsula; for as Spaniards live from hand to mouth, everybody goes there every day to buy their daily bread, &c., and then, as elsewhere, be more careful of keeping your good temper than sixpences: never measure Spanish things by an English standard, nor seek for motes in bright eyes. Scout all imaginary dismals, dangers, and difficulties, which become as nothing when manfully met, and especially when on the road and in the Fonda. View Spain and her inhabitants en couleur de rose, and it will go hard if some of that agreeable tint be not reflected on such a judicious observer, for, like a mirror, the Spaniard returns your smile or frown, your courtesy or contumely; nor is it of any use going to Rome if you quarrel with the Pope. Strain a point or two therefore, to "make things pleasant.” § 18.-THE SPANISH SCHOOL OF PAINTING. The following sketch of the Spanish school of painting may be useful to the traveller when visiting the galleries and churches of the Peninsula. The earliest paintings which he is likely to find in Spain are by feeble imitators of the Italian and Flemish masters of the end of the 14th century and of the 15th. They are principally in the cathedrals and churches of Toledo, Cordova, Seville, Avila, Burgos, and other large towns. A few have recently been added to the Museum of Madrid, where, however, Spanish art is historically but ill represented. They are, for the most part, of no great interest, and have little of the charming simplicity and tenderness of the works of the contemporary Italian masters; nor do they show the power of expression and of rendering details that distinguishes the early Flemish painters. In colour they are sombre and monotonous -a quality which characterises the whole Spanish school. Starnina (b. 1354) and Dello Delli (b. 1404), Florentine masters of reputation, settled in Spain; John Van Eyck and other Flemish painters also visited the Peninsula. It is not impossible that the frescoes which may still be seen in the chapel of Archbishop Tenorio, opening into the cloisters of the Cathedral of Toledo, may be by Starnina. They were evidently painted by one who followed the traditions of the school of Giotto. The curious paintings on leather in the ceiling of the "Sala de Justicia," in the Alhambra, are also attributed to an Italian artist of the 14th century. Amongst the earliest known Spanish painters who formed their style upon the combined Italian and Flemish influence, were, in the 15th century: Sanchez de Castro of Seville, whose works have, for the most part, perished; Pedro Berruguete, a painter of some reputation, to whom are attributed a series of pictures in the Madrid Gallery of the Life of S. Domenic Guzman; Santos Cruz, his associate, to whom are also assigned some panels in the same collection; Rincon, born, it is said, in 1446, who, like Giotto in Italy, has the credit in Spain of being the author of all old pictures by unknown hands; his son Fernando Rincon; Fernando Gallegos, born at Salamanca, who, according to Cean Bermudez, studied under Albert Dürer, and whose principal works are in the cathedral of his native city (Ford terms him the Van Eyck of the Peninsula); Juan de Borgogna, who, as his name indicates, may have been born out of Spain. He appears to have learnt his art in Italy, probably in the Venetian school. His principal work is the History of the Virgin, in fresco, on the walls of the chapterhouse of the Cathedral of Toledo, which is not without considerable merit. He also painted at Avila and in other towns. Alonso Berruguete, the son of Pedro, born 1480, went to Florence, and placed himself under Michael Angelo, whom he accompanied to Rome in 1504 studying under him painting, sculpture, and architecture. He returned to Spain in 1520, and made a revolution in Spanish art by introducing a broader and grander mode of treatment in imitation of his great master. Charles V. appointed him "pintor y escultor de camara." Of his works in painting none are known, but of his sculpture in marble, stone and wood, especially for architectural decoration, many fine examples exist in the Peninsula. He had many pupils and imitators, whose inferior works are usually attributed by ignorant guides to Berruguete. The celebrated Antonio or Antony Moro came to Spain in 1552, as painter to the Emperor Charles V. and Philip II. He founded the Spanish school of portrait painting. The Madrid Gallery contains some excellent portraits by him, especially that of Queen Mary of England. Many of those he painted of the royal family of Spain and of European princes which were in the Pardo were burnt with that palace. His most distinguished Spanish pupil was Alonso Sanchez Coello (died 1590), whose portraits of Philip II. and III., of various members of the House of Austria, and of Spanish knights and ladies, preserved in the Madrid Gallery and in |