The mer months. The bed-rooms in large towns are carpeted in winter; they seldom have fireplaces, but in winter a brazier is lighted. domestic arrangements in general in the Spanish hotels and lodgings are very bad. The only way that an improvement is ever to take place is to complain incessantly to the servants, and insist upon cleanliness whenever necessary. $ 10.-SPANISH ROBBERS-NEW POLICE-CIVIL GUARDS. Undoubtedly on the long highways of a thinly-peopled land, accidents may occur; but the regular and really formidable robbers have almost disappeared on the high roads, in consequence of the institution of a body of well-armed men, admirably disciplined (part mounted) as Gens-d'Armes, who are stationed on the principal routes as escorts and patrols. They are called Guardias civiles, to distinguish them from military and rural guards. Notwithstanding these precautions, however, every now and then trains are stopped, and the travellers robbed. Valuables should always be taken in a hand-bag, for the railway service is bad all over the country, and passengers' baggage is frequently opened on the journey. Civil Guards of Spain. This noble body of men is composed of 20,000 Foot and 5000 Horse Guards, or Gendarmerie, first organised 1844-45: they are dressed in dark blue tunic and trousers of same colour, light buff-coloured belts, and armed with Remington rifles; some have the short, some the long rifle. The Guardias civiles are under military law; their punishments and penalties exceptionally severe. Their esprit de corps is good. Their ranks are composed of the high-character and long-service men of the Spanish army; and of cadets from the College, near Madrid, where all the orphan children of Civil Guards who have died in the pursuance of their duty, are educated, free of expense, for the force. The duties of the Civil Guards are much the same as those of the Irish Constabulary, whom they greatly resemble in organisation. They are stationed, in couples, in every town and small village, and in small barracks along every frequented high-road, and in squads of from 25 to 50 in Spain's larger cities. They are police, without being spies; soldiers, without being liable to be called on for service beyond the Peninsula. They perform their duties as police most effectively. Not a robbery is committed but what these men find out, and, thanks only to their exertions, Spain is now well-nigh free of robbers. Two of them meet every train at every station, examine passports with courtesy, check everything that is wrong, as well by their presence and morale, as by the strong arm of the law. They escort prisoners from one prison to another, and, knowing how uncertain in its action is Spanish law, they constantly shoot down a murderer, taken red-handed, or trying to escape when on the march with them from prison to prison. They have done more to establish order in Spain than any other body. The men are 5 feet 8 inches in stature, well-set and powerful. Their head is a General in the army, living in Madrid, with the title of Director-General. Their officers are nearly all of the middle class: say, of the class of tradesmen, All members of the force must read and write. Promotion from the ranks is the rule, not the exception. They live in barracks, mess together, and associate but little with the outer world. The force supports a weekly periodical, called Boletin oficial de La Guardia Civil, first started in 1858. The rules of the corps are arranged in the Cartilla, gambling being entirely prohibited. "The couples engaged in patrolling the roads must walk twelve paces apart from one another, so as not to be both surprised at once." The rules for protection of persons and property prescribe the proper conduct for every emergency, such as earthquakes, fires, floods, wayfarer losing his way, and so on, duly laid down. The cavalry carry heavy dragoon swords of Toledo make, and revolvers and short carbine; the foot-soldiers-for soldiers they are, and trained to act in couples as well as in large bodies,-Remington rifle and bayonet, and sometimes revolvers. The safety of property in Spain may, without exaggeration, be said to depend on this most excellent force. No Civil Guard is allowed to accept a reward, however great be his service to you. § 11.-POPULATION AND REVENUE-EDUCATIONAL Population in 1868, 15,673,248, of whom 3,129,921 knew how to read and write, 705,778 could read only. According to the census for the year 1877, the population of Spain numbers over 16,731,570. Revenue for the year 1882-1883. This has been estimated (officially) at 760,291,224 pesetas, or francs; the State expenses are estimated (officially) at 792,122,953 pesetas. (See 'Presupuestos Generales del Estado,' 1882.) The Revenue has always been badly collected, and at an enormous cost. Every impediment has been placed in the way of intended investors of capital in the Peninsula. But in spite of every obstacle which successive governments-each (if possible) worse than its predecessor-could throw in the way of Spanish progress, that progress has been most marked during the last 20 years. Since then the population and revenue have increased, and a marked improvement is perceptible in the education of the people. § 12.-HINTS TO INVALIDS-CLIMATE. The superiority of the climate of the South of Spain over other regions of Europe has been ably demonstrated by various medical writers.* Independently of a more southern latitude, the geometrical configuration of Spain is superior. While the Apennines, the backbone of Italy, stretching N. to S., offer no barrier to northern cold, the sierras of Spain, running E. and W., afford complete shelter to the littoral strips. Free as a whole from malaria, dryness is the emphatic quality of the climate. Tarragona, Murcia, and Malaga, may be pronounced the most favoured winter climate in Europe. As Spain itself is a conglomeration of elevated mountains, the treeless, denuded interior, scorching and calcined in summer, keen, cold and windblown in winter, is prejudicial to the invalid; the hygienic *See Dr. Bennett's Climate of the South of Europe.' 'Change of Climate,' &c., by D. J. T, Francis, M.D. characteristics of the maritime coasts to the N.W. from Vigo to San Sebastian, are soothing and sedative—a relaxing influence prevailing as the French frontier is approached; the coast-line from Barcelona to Cadiz is more bracing and exhilarating. Tarragona possesses perhaps the most agreeable climate in Europe, whilst farther S. (in Murcia) occur the driest regions in Europe, with Malaga for the happy medium. For all this, at the present time there are few towns in Spain where invalids can pass a winter with comfort or safety. Malaga enjoys a mild winter climate, and the same immunity from frost as does the Riviera from Nice to San Remo; but it is not a clean or healthy city. The drainage is as defective as can be. The hotels are fairly good, but there are few, if any, suburban residences fit for invalids (Dr. Bennett and Dr. More Madden, p. 280). Murcia in summer is a desert, except where water springs and irrigation create an oasis, where palms flourish in forest growth. In winter the climate is mild, dry, and exempt from frost. The water drunk in Spain, where-in the warmer portions -diabetes and dropsy are little known, is deliciously pure. The wines of Navarre, Valdepeñas, and Aragon, are cheap and wholesome. The cuisine, in a country where people eat to live, not live to eat, will indeed keep body and soul together, but will tempt no weak and wearied stomach to repletion. The peptic benefits of climate on the natives are evident by the way they digest an oil, vinegar, and vegetable diet, and survive chocolate, sweetmeats, and bile-creating compounds. The sustaining effect is proved by the untiring activity of the very under-fed masses, where many seem to live on air, like chameleons. To be always able to bask in the open air, to throw physic to the dogs, to watch the sun, the stars, the country, the blue Mediterranean, and the people, with the satisfaction of every day getting better, are consolations and occupations sufficient. § 13.-MINERAL SPRINGS AND SEA-BATHING. These are very numerous, and have always been much frequented. In every part of the Peninsula such names as Caldas, the Roman Calidas, and Alhama, the Arabic Al-hamun, denote the continuance of baths, in spite of the changes of nations and language. From Alhămăn, the Hhamman of Cairo, the name of our comfortable Jermyn Street Hummums is derived; but very different are the Spanish accommodations, which are mostly inadequate, and inconvenient. The Junta Suprema de Sanidad, or Official Board of Health, has published a list of the names of the principal baths, and their proper seasons. At each a medical superintendent resides, who is appointed by Government. The most important of these establishments, and where a certain degree of comfort can be obtained for invalids, and which are remarkable for their admirable situation, are-Santa Agueda, Alzola, Arrechavaleta and Cestona (in the Basque Provinces), Caldas de Oviedo (Asturias), Ontaneda (Santander), Fitero (Navarra), Panticosa (Huesca), Caldas de Mombuy and la Puda (Cataluña), Alhama de Aragon, Lanjaron (Granada), Carratraca (Malaga). In the Almanaque de España, easily to be found everywhere, a list is also given of the properties of these medicinal waters, their locality and season. Sea-bathing, during the summer and autumn months, is very enjoyable on the N.W. coasts of Spain. The most fashionable sea-side resort is St. Sebastian, which is frequented by the best Madrid society. El Sardinero, near Santander, is also much resorted to. Zarauz, Deva, and Saturraran are more suited to quiet people who wish for economy. Gijon is the most fashionable sea-bathing locality of Asturias; but at the hamlets on the coast, Luanco, Luarca, &c., the bathing is very pleasant, the prices charged for lodgings most moderate, providing an agreement is made; the food, salmon, milk, and excellent fruits and vegetables most abundant; and the artist or student will find great enjoyment in the grand scenery and picturesque people. On the shores of the Mediterranean there are numerous bathing establishments-at Barcelona, Arenys del Mar, a beautiful spot, Alicante, Valencia, Malaga, and Cadiz. The water of the Mediterranean is very different in temperature and chemical properties to that of the Atlantic. For some constitutions these baths are highly recommended, but the heat at those localities is so intense that autumn should be chosen. Bathing machines are not generally used in Spain, one of the few exceptions being at Las Arenas, near Bilbao; thatched huts, or albercas, supply their place. Men and women bathe separately in these albercas. § 14.-TOURS IN SPAIN. Although the ravages of war, and the acts of the Gotho-Spaniards themselves, have destroyed and disfigured many of the most interesting relics of the Moor-yet the remains of that elegant, industrious, and enlightened people are still, both in number and importance, quite unequalled in Europe: they will long continue to furnish subjects of interest and curiosity to travellers in the Peninsula. Before pointing out objects to be observed in Spain, it may be as well to mention what is not to be seen, as there is no worse loss of time than finding this out oneself, after weary chase and wasted hours; and first let us advise the mere Idler and Man of Pleasure to go rather to Paris, Vienna, St. Petersburg, Florence, or Rome, than to Madrid and Spain, for Iberia is not a land of fleshly comforts, or of social sensual civilization. Oh! dura tellus Iberic !—God there sends the meat, and the evil one cooks. Then again, those who expect to find wellgarnished arsenals, libraries provided with the popular literature of the day, restaurants, charitable or literary institutions, polytechnic galleries, pale-ale breweries, and similar appliances and appurtenances of a high state of commercial civilization, had better stay at home. Life in the country towns and villages of Spain is a Bedouin Oriental existence. Madrid itself is but a dear, second-rate European capital. The maritime seaports are, however, more amusing; and the Alameda, the church show, and the bull-fight, will be best enjoyed in the Southern provinces, the land also of the song and danes, of bright suns and eyes, wholesale love-making, and of not the largest female feet in the world. Spain may perhaps interest a political economist, as offering a fine example of errors to be avoided, and a grand field for theories and plans of future reform and amelioration. Here is a land where Nature has lavished her prodigality of soil and climate, and which man has for [Spain.-1882.] с the last four centuries been endeavouring to counteract. El cielo y suelo es bueno, el entresuelo malo. Here the tenant for life, and the occupier of the peninsular entresol, have long abused, with incurious apathy, the goods with which the gods have provided him, and have preserved the country as a terra incognita to naturalists, and every branch of ists and ologists. Those, however, who aspire to the romantic, who wish to revel in the sublime and beautiful, will find subjects enough in wandering with lead-pencil and note-book through this singular country, this land of the green valley and ashy mountain, of the boundless plain and the broken sierra; through Elysian gardens of the vine, the olive, the orange, and the aloe, and trackless, silent, uncultivated wastes, the heritage of the bustard and bittern. Striking, indeed, and sudden is the change, in flying from the polished monotony of England, to the racy freshness of this still original country, where antiquity treads on the heels of to-day; where Paganism disputes the very altar with Christianity; where a want of much that is honest or merciful is blended with the most devoted heroic virtues ; where ignorance and erudition stand in violent and striking contrast. In suggesting lines of routes in Spain, a whole year would not suffice to exhaust the objects of natural history, antiquarian, ecclesiological, and fine art interest. A complete tour-the grand tour-may, however, be made in five months by those to whom time is an important consideration. a. THE GRAND TOUR, Start from England about the beginning of March, enter Spain by Route No. 137, and then proceed thus— |