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lar form, with turrets and towers, a style of architecture which bears the same resemblance to true art that the rhetoric of Thomas Diafoirus does to eloquence

I visited the court-house in company with Mr. Gerhard, during the trial of a very important case; that of the riot at Christiana. A planter, from Maryland, was killed while in pursuit of a fugitive slave in a free State. This law is, at this time, the stumbling stone, against which, the Compromise Act is at all times ready to fall. It allows the master to It allows the master to pursue his slave into the State in which he has taken refuge, and to obtain the aid, in this pursuit, of the officers of the Federal Government. It must be conceded that the principle of this law is to be found in the Constitution, which is positive in this respect, though the word slave is not mentioned. It seems that the legislators have substituted for this unfortunate name, the words, a person held to service or labor. The States, contrary to the general usage, allow, in this particular, the intervention of the Federal Government. They do not countenance their own officers in the pursuit or arrest of the fugitives; though they allow them to be arrested; which seems too little for the slave States, and too much for the free States. Without this legislative enactment, the slaves, aided in their escape by the abolitionists, would find an easy and sure refuge in a neighboring State, and the guarantee granted by the constitution would be fallacious; but in another point of view, the fugitive slave law presents great difficulties. It is scandalous that the judge who decides the action in favor of the claimant, is entitled to a larger fee than if he decides to the contrary; and aside from this monstrous clause, it may be imagined how hard it is in those states of the Union where slavery does not exist, for those who abhor it as a crime, and reprove it as a sin, to see a stranger, accompanied by officers who belong to another state, arrest and handcuff a peaceable citizen, established for years perhaps in a place, and recognized as a neighbor or friend. These arrests are often the occasion of heart-rending scenes. I was informed, that some time since in New England, a fugitive slave was found on a steamboat with his wife and two children. Some one jestingly told him that there were persons on the boat employed to arrest him, when he suddenly stabbed himself, and his wife threw herself with her two children into the water. Such scenes are not calculated to calm the public mind. Although the participation of

the accused in the riot at Christiana is generally admitted, it is thought they will be acquitted, especially since they are indicted for treason, which is a capital crime; and as it is defined in the old English law, the jury will never agree that those who were implicated in this affair had declared war against the United States. the United States. I heard a part of the accusation which was expressed in very suitable terms, carefully avoiding everything calculated to irritate the public mind, and confining itself exclusively to the meaning

of the law.

The judges did not appear to me less imposing for not wearing the black robe and the square cap. The same is true of the lawyers. I like to see a man in a frock coat explain a case to others similarly dressed, rather than one attired like Patelin, who, while gesticulating, is ever taking off or putting on his cap, or throwing back his sleeves before other persons in black robes, who involuntarily remind me of Perrin Dandin or Brid'oison. These costumes are aristocratic signs, which tend to separate the different classes, by imposing upon each a particular character, and it is known that there is but one civil costume in the United States. The democratic principle tends to suppress in everything hierarchical distinctions. In the United States there is no difference between the attorney and counsellor, as the same individual alternately performs the duties of both; still less do there exist the distinctions which separate in England the civilian, the barrister, and the sergeant at law. An American is all these, and may be besides proctor, advocate, solicitor, conveyancer, and pleader, and may successively or simultaneously engage in other pursuits. The United States is not a country of rigorous adherence to one thing exclusively, and there are but few who have not had a variety of occupations.

At another court, where I was present at a trial of less importance, I was surprised to hear one of the judges express his dissent after the verdict had been rendered. He did it with much calmness. It is carrying the respect for individual opinion very far, thus to allow the minority of the judges to express an opinion contrary to the decision, at the risk of weakening its force; but here it seemed to occasion no difficulty.

The mayor of Philadelphia proposed to accompany me this evening to the disorderly portions of the city. I was informed that he has ever performed his important duties in a very commendable manner, and that the public tranquillity and security have gained

much by the organization of a safety police | The Captain receives $600, and each man which he has established. As I have before $300; nearly all are laborers. The captain, observed, the police system is the weak an intelligent man, is a carriage-maker, by point of many of the large cities of the which he earns $300. The men serve fourUnited States-New York among the rest, teen hours in winter, and ten in summer. and as I was desirous of witnessing what had They watch in turn. Each one goes alone been accomplished in Philadelphia, I was armed with a club, and carries a rattle to gratified at this opportunity of becoming ac- warn his companions in case of need, and to quainted with that part of the population summon assistance. The law is generally which we seldom encounter in the world, and respected, and is only resisted by drunkards which there are no inducements to visit un- and vagabonds; but what surprised me, it less in such good company. is seldom necessary to appeal to the aid of the citizens. Besides the force at the dis

We began our circuit at eight o'clock in the evening, and ended it at eleven. Mean-posal of the mayor, there is another which while, we entered a number of suspicious looking houses, visited several colored females, and passed through certain streets, where it would not be wise to venture alone. The magistrate was attended by two large officers armed with pistols, and serving as our body-guard.

The mayor entered into a house occupied by a colored woman smoking her cigar. We were very politely received. He spoke very kindly to the woman. Well, Jane, how do you do? You have a very comfortable house here. He was answered without impudence or embarrassment. Now and then he was saluted by a negro whom he had sent to prison some time before. Be careful, he would say to him, not to appear before me again I may be more severe the next time. Never fear, Mr. Mayor, I shall not expose myself again. Mr. is much more severe than his predecessors, though he does not approve of useless severity. His motto is, as he says: Never harsh, and always ready. His officers are ordered, when they find persons but slightly intoxicated, to lead them

home.

Nothing can be more repulsive than the small rooms where the negroes assemble to dance or rather, to shake themselves monotonously before each other, striking the floor with the heels of their shoes, in the space of a few feet encumbered with a stove, and a revolting group of old negro women smoking their pipes. This black population furnishes, as might be expected, the greatest share of the arrests made by the police offi cers; though the white population, especially the Irish, contributes its due proportion. These arrests amounted in one year to 7,077; not unfrequently the lock-up contains sixty women. The Germans have for some time had a bad reputation; the French comprise the better portion of the foreign population. We visited the station of the night police, which comprises fifty men and a captain.

receives its authority from the marshal, who may in a case of emergency dispose of all of the municipal forces. This organization seems to me characteristically American in its perfect precision and accuracy.

I spent the remainder of the evening very agreeably at the mayor's. The conversation turned upon that adventurous instinct which prompts the American to tempt fortune at every risk. To obtain it, many go, for example, to New Orleans where the climate is almost fatal in summer, and where they die. or become rich. Like in all respects, except in the instinct of glory, to that military sentiment which leads to the desire for perilous warfare where there is sure preferment to all who are not killed. I was informed of a man who had arrived from California, who had been successively an agriculturist, a merchant, and captain of a steamboat, and at length became very rich. He returned home, but knew of no way to dispose of his money but to lend or give it to his friends, of whom he had scarcely thought in his absence. Evidently the passion of this man was not to possess money, but to acquire it. Much was said of the triumph of a locksmith, Mr. Locke. The famous Bramah had proposed a reward to any one who should succeed in opening a lock which he had exerted all his skill to construct. Mr. Locke opened it, then placed 100 guineas in a safe, and locked it and gave the key to Bramah, offering him the 100 guineas if he opened it: I have not heard that it has been opened. The triumph of Mr. Locke, the victory of the yacht America over the English yachts in a regatta near the Isle of Wight, the success of the reaping machine, are three topics upon which the press is inexhaustible. To these three great industrial exploits may be added the superior speed of the American steamers in crossing the Atlantic. They are the four great victories. They are Arcola, Marengo, Austerlitz and Wagram. The national vanity is quite ex

cited. The English deserve honor for the courtesy which they manifested in their defeat. When the America beat their yachts at the Isle of Wight, the Queen congratulated the victors. The conquered gracefully applauded. I have heard Americans acknowledge that, in case of defeat, they would not have done the same.

at that time a desert, where he often travelled 150 miles without finding an inhabited place. Wilson died in 1813, at the age of 47, after having surmounted all obstacles and published the seventh volume of his ornithology.

Wilson loved and appreciated nature; he experienced in the presence of creation those. pleasures of which learned statesmen have no conception. I read in one of his letters: "Since I have attempted to re-produce the wonders of nature, I see a beauty in each plant, flower and bird which I behold; I find that my ideas of the first and incomprehensible cause are elevated in proportion as I examine minutely His works. I often smile. at the thought that while others are absorbed in plans of speculation and fortune, and are occupied in purchasing plantations or in building cities, I am observing with delight the plumage of a lark, or contemplating with the air of a lover in despair, the profile of an owl." Studying did not render him cruel. "One of my pupils," he adds, "the other day caught a mouse, and immediately brought the prisoner to me. evening I began to sketch it; meanwhile the beatings of its little heart evinced that it was suffering the extremest agony of fear. I was intending to kill it by placing it under the claws of a stuffed owl; but having accidentally spilled some drops of water near the place of its confinement, it began to lap it up with so much eagerness and to look at me with such an appearance of supplicating terror, that it triumphed entirely over my resolution, and I accordingly liberated it." Uncle Toby would not have been more compassionate, had he been a naturalist.

That same

Philadelphia is said to be one of the most scientific and literary cities in the Union, and judging from what I have seen, I am induced to believe it. It possesses a museum of natural history, distinguished especially for its beautiful collection of birds. Aside from science, it is to me an unwearied source of enjoyment to contemplate beautiful birds, and I can comprehend the enthusiasm of two ornithologists who spent their lives in traversing the forests of America for the purpose of studying the habits of the birds, of which they have published representations in two works well known and appreciated by naturalists; these two men are Wilson and Audubon. Wilson, a Scotchman by birth, a friend of Burns, who himself attempted poetry in his youth, arrived penniless in America. In traversing the forests of Delaware, the sight of a beautiful native bird, the red-headed woodpecker, filled him with an admiration which decided his future career. By turns pedlar and school-teacher, he attempted to draw, but succeeded only with birds, which decided his avocation as ornithologist. With no other resource than a strong will, he conceived the design of collecting and sketching all the birds of North America, and with this view he spent his life wandering in the forests, with no society but the Indians. There he was happy observing the habits of the birds, Audubon was an American by birth, and and enthusiastically enjoying solitude. He his life, like that of Wilson's, affords a resuffered only while in the cities, "forced," markable example of what a persevering said he, "to forget the harmonies of the will, united to an indomitable passion, can woods, for the incessant turmoil of the city, accomplish. Both possessed the same pasand surrounded with musty books." The sion, both devoted their lives, in the depths only book which he studied with enjoyment, of the forests, in studying the habits of the was the book of nature. In his wanderings birds, and in reproducing their varied forms. he had a double aim: "I go," wrote he, "in The descriptions of Audubon are intersperspursuit of birds and subscribers." The lat-ed with the most interesting details of the ter were more difficult than the former; but habits of the American birds. It is evident nothing daunted Wilson: his correspondence, that he has lived with them in their solitudes, full of vivacity and imagination, shows him as he often gives variety to his descriptions sometimes at the North in the forests of New by introducing personal reminiscences, and Hampshire, where he is mistaken for a Cana-sketches of the prairies, of the banks of the spy; sometimes at the West, descending the Ohio in a small boat, and delighted, he says, to feel his heart dilate in view of the new scenes which surrounded him; then going to New Orleans, through a region of country

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Ohio and of Niagara. One interesting feature of his publications is, that the colored plates represent objects in their true dimensions. For the first time in a zoological atlas, a bird like the eagle and the turkey are represent

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ed in their natural size. Audubon has also placed by the side of each bird the flower or branch which they prefer, and has chosen that attitude which is most characteristic. This magnificent work, conceived and prepared by an American, was published in Scotland, with the aid of an English artist. In his preface, Audubon has related how his natural taste for ornithology was developed. From his childhood he was passionately fond of the woods. The sight of the graceful creatures which animated them, thenceforth filled his mind with inexpressible joy. He passed, he says, hours full of calm delight in viewing the eggs deposited in the moss; then he longed to possess these objects of his admiration. The death of the birds which he collected grieved his youthful heart. He then conceived the idea of reproducing their images by sketching them, but for a long time his efforts were fruitless, and at each anniversary of his birth, he was accustomed to destroy many of his sketches. He went to France, and entered the studio of David, which he never regretted, though he could not find his instinctive love of nature gratified. After a short time he returned to his forest life; but, as his passion for birds did not exclude all others, he married, and for twenty years he spent a restless, unsatisfied existence, engaging in a variety of occupations, but succeeding in none, because his mind was elsewhere. No longer able to restrain his propensity, though blamed by his friends, he resumed his wanderings through the woods, on the banks of the lakes, and along the shores of the Atlantic. He travelled with no other aim than to gratify his sight with the scenes of nature, and especially with the winged creation. One day, while traversing the forests of the Upper Hudson, the idea occurred to him to publish the result of so many observations, made solely for his own pleasure, and a representation more complete, more true to nature, of the beings he so loved. He encountered fewer obstacles than Wilson. The American was more liberally aided in Scotland, than the Scotchman had been in America; but before the completion of his undertaking, he met with some reverses; for one day he found, upon opening a trunk, where he had deposited a thousand designs, that two Norwegian rats had taken possession with their family, surrounded with the tattered remnants of his work. The sight almost maddened him. Audubon, of French origin, died some years since.

At the Philadelphia Museum may also be

seen the collection of skulls made by Mr. Morton, the author of the American Craniology. Mr. Morton aimed particularly at the American race in his researches; but the necessity of compairing the configuration of the people of the new world with that of the inhabitants of other continents, induced him to form the remarkable collection, which, since his death, has been deposited temporarily in the museum at Philadelphia. Mr. Morton is one of those who have attempted to demonstrate that we must seek in an artificial deformity for the origin of certain forms of the head, unnaturally flattened among some of the American tribes and immoderately enlarged in the form of a moon among others,-practices which are not unknown in France, and the results of which have been observed in the heads of foreigners. As to the question of race and origin, Morton has arrived at the conclusion that the new continent was peopled by a race bearing no essential relation to the Mongolian race, and consequently did not come from Asia. But what particularly attracted my attention, for I have my passion like Wilson and Audubon, were the Egyptian skulls which form an important part of Mr. Morton's collection, and to which he has devoted a special work. He recognized in the Egyptian race a particular type, and has distinguished in the Egyptian style, two varieties, one of which is characterized by a low, narrow forehead, and the other presenting the principal traits of the Caucasian race. the negro race ever intermingled themselves with the Egyptian population? This is perhaps not impossible. The wife of Amenophis 1st is represented upon the monuments as black; similar unions may have been formed by the common people, especially at the time of the invasions of the shepherds, who, having entered Egypt on the north, caused the native population to emigrate southward. To this union may be attributed the flatness of the foreheads, so striking in certain heads in this collection. One thing is true, that the Theban skulls bear a stronger resemblance to the Nubian skulls, than those of Memphis. Has the configuration of the black population of the south of Egypt been influenced by that of the inhabitants of Upper Egypt? This, in my opinion, has seemed to result from the examinations of the skulls in Mr. Morton's collection. If this fact is established, we may avail ourselves of it in seeking for the origin of the aborigines of Egypt. Pardon me for these Egyptian digressions, which perhaps do not inter

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est my reader as much as myself. I will house, and concerns me no longer." It was add nothing upon the skulls of the mum-impossible, in hearing him speak, to doubt mies, but will resume my promenade in Philadelphia.

his sincerity. Evidently the pleasure of research counterbalances, with him, the desire of gain. Mr. Wetherell showed me the gasometer of Philadelphia, which is very beautiful, and the one now in process of construction, it is said, will be the largest in the world. We afterwards visited the waterworks on the banks of the Schuylkill, by means of which water is carried into Philadelphia by a number of pumps, to which it is intended to add a turbine of 40 horse power, at the cost of $10,000, and which will increase the supply of water 4,000,000 gallons. We entered the house of a Welsh laborer to warm ourselves. I was informed by Mr. Wetherell, that there exists in Philadelphia a society for the benefit of the Welsh, having a fund of $10 to $20,000, which loans the interest of this sum to needy Welshmen. The money thus loaned has always been faithfully restored. This British blood is good. Mr. Wetherell, who is himself of Welsh origin, one day offered some wood to a poor woman, who proudly answered, "I am able to buy my own wood." You are Welsh," said he to her, which was true. He was relating this anecdote one day at a dinner, when one of the gentlemen of the company exclaimed-"She was my mother."

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We will return to America, and visit the Mint of this city. The Mint at Philadelphia presents at the present time an unusual spectacle: thanks to the California gold, which is there transformed into $5.00 pieces; gold literally runs and flows like water. The gold pieces are poured into baskets as are elsewhere the commonest pennies. For some time past they have been obliged to double the amount of labor, and I was informed that, on some days, there have been coined in this establishment pieces to the amount of $500,000. As I expressed some uneasiness with respect to the safety of the hands through which so much money passes, I was answered: If a few pieces are taken it matters not; but this seldom happens; and whoever will steal small sums, will be induced to commit larger thefts, when he will be infallibly detected. It is generally easier to resist temptation than to control it. Philadelphia is celebrated for its manufactories, and contains the largest manufacturing population in the United States. I was so fortunate as to have the opportunity of visiting the interesting white lead manufactory of Mr. Wetherell: the carbonate is prepared under water, so as not to endanger the health of the workmen. Mr. Wetherell This last trait is characteristic of society manufactures three tons of white lead daily, in the United States. It is pleasant to witand realizes an annual profit of $10,000. ness the facility with which all can elevate former years he has realized as much as themselves, without blushing for his origin, $50,000, but the competition of New York and on the contrary claiming the honor of a has reduced his profits. He also manufac- good sentiment in a poor mother. It is also tures hydrochloric acid, Prussian blue, mor- pleasant to find in this country, in the midst phine, refined camphor, and several other of the external uniformity of the general articles; forming an example of the variety manners, those nationalities which are preof occupations and arts so frequent in the served, perpetuated by a bond of benevoUnited States. Besides the technical inter-lence and love. In New York each race has est, there was a greater one in the charac- established a society, for the benefit of its teristic details which this American manu- members, under the patronage of their nafactory, and this American manufacturer, tional saint. Saint George for the English, afforded me. One of the workmen was Saint Andrew for the Scotch, Saint David engaged in reading, while his oven was heat- for the Welsh, and Saint Nicholas for the ing, as I lately saw a boatman at West Dutch. The members of these societies Point, while waiting for the hour of depar- meet annually and dine together. In that ture, reading one of Walter Scott's romances. of the Dutch, two pipes and a vessel of The reader was not at all disturbed when his Dutch freestone filled with tobacco, are prepatron passed near him. Mr. Wetherell is sented to all who are present, and lively the type of scientific activity in a mechanic. speeches are made. Innocent and pleasant After having explained every thing to me gayety: it is like our social balls, which some with much eagerness and vivacity, he con- austere persons condemn; but I have never ducted me to his laboratory, saying: "Here found that good was not good, when made I am happy, experimenting upon different a source of amusement. things; afterwards it is all taken to the store

In

At Philadelphia there are quite a number

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