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MEN'S DRESS CHART FOR 1915.

THE following is a specification of the proper attire for men on various occasions in the Spring season of 1915, prepared and copyrighted by The Haberdasher, New York.

Day Weddings, Afternoon Calls and Matinee

Receptions.

Coat and Overcoat-Black cutaway, Chesterfield or skirted overcoat.

Waistcoat-To match coat, or white.

Trousers-Striped worsted of dark gray, or to match coat.

Hat-High silk, with broad felt band.
Shirts and Cuffs -Stiff or pleated white.
Collar-Wing or poke.

Cravat-Pearl Ascot, or four-in-hand, to match gloves.

Gloves-Pearl suede, reindeer, qr glace, to match cravat.

Boots-Patent leather, laced or buttoned kid tops.

Jewelry-Pearl or moonstone links, studs, and cravat pin.

Business, Lounge and Morning Wear.

Coat and Overcoat-Jacket, Chesterfield overcoat.

Waistcoat-To match jacket, or fancy fabric. Trousers-To match jacket, or of different fabric with dark jacket.

Hat-Derby or soft.

Shirts and Cuffs-Pleated or negligé.
Collar-Fold or wing.

Cravat-Four-in-hand or tle.

Gloves-Tan cape or chamois.

Boots-Laced calf or russet, high or low.
Jewelry-Pearl, gold, or jewelled links and gold

chain.

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Afternoon Teas, Church and Promenade.
Coat and Overcoat-Black cutaway.
Waistcoat-To match coat, or of fancy fabric.
Trousers-Gray striped worsted, or to match
coat.

Hat-High silk or black derby.

Shirts and Cuffs-Pleated, white or fancy.
Collar-Fold or wing

Cravat-Once-over or four-in-hand.
Gloves-Gray suede or reindeer.

Boots-Patent leather or dull calf, laced or buttoned kid tops.

Jewelry-Gold or jewelled links, studs and cravat pin.

Evening Weddings, Balls, Receptions,
Formal Dinners and Theatres.

Coat and Overcoat-Swallowtail, cape skirted or
Chesterfield overcoat.
Waistcoat-White, single or double-breasted, of
pique, linen or silk.

Trousers-Same material as coat.

Hat-High silk, with broad felt band.

Shirts and Cuffs-Stiff pique of linen, white.
Collar-Poke, wing, or lap-front.

Cravat-White tie of plain or figured pique or linen.

Gloves-White glace or white reindeer; white cape for theatre.

Boots-Patent leather, buttoned kid tops, patent leather pumps.

Jewelry-Pearl or moonstone links and studs, platinum bar-chain, or white ribbon.

Evening, Informal Dinners, Club, Stag, and at Home Dinners.

Coat and Overcoat-Jacket black or Oxford, Chesterfield overcoat.

Waistcoat--Black or black-and-white linen single or double-breasted. Trousers-Same material as jacket.

Hat-Derby or soft.

silk ог

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BIRTHSTONES.

List as adopted by the American National Retail Jewelers' Association in convention Aug. 8, 1913.
January-Garnet.
June-Pearl and moonstone. October-Opal and tourma-
line.

February-Amethyst.

July-Ruby.

March-Bloodstone and aqua. August-Sardonyx and peri- November-Topaz.

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dot.

September-Sapphire.

December-Turquoise lapis lazuli.

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and

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210 Yellowstone(upper) Montana 110

NAME AND LOCATION. in feet.
.1,385 Schaffhausen, Switzerland.. 100
266
.2,000 Seven Falls, Colorado....
Victoria, Africa.
50 Skjaeggedalsfos, Norway.. 530 Voringfos, Norway
Shoshone, Idaho.......

Helghti

NAME AND LOCATION.

in feet.

Minnehaha, Minnesota.

Missouri, Montana. Montmorenci, Quebec. Multnomah, Oregon. Murchison, Africa..

Rjukan, Norway..

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90 Snoqualmie, Washington.. 268 Yellowstone (lower) Montana 310 265 Staubbach, Switzerland....1,000 850 Stirling. New Zealand.... 120 Sutherland, New Zealand.. 1,904 Niagara, New York-Ontario 164 Takkakaw, Brit'h Columbla1,200 780 Twin, Idaho..

180

Ygnassu, Brazil...
Yosemite(upper) California 1,436
Yosemite(middle), California 626
Yosemite (lower), California 400

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THE WORLD's purpose, to "turn on the light" in the interest of the people at large, was not forgotten during the year 1914. This inspiring alm was responsible for a remarkable feat in the Journalistic world. It led THE WORLD to investigate the business methods of the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad Company, nothing daunted by the fact that the corporation was controlled by some of the greatest living financiers, men whose decisions were supposed to be the last word in financial matters.

It showed that millions of dollars were unaccounted for following the consolidation of the New Haven and other interests; pointed the journalistic finger at the men who controlled the road, and asked for an investigation. It held firmly that there had been wrongdoing, and asked that the guilt be made personal and justice done the stockholders of the New Haven Railroad.

With this result: That an investigation into the financial transactions of the New Haven was ordered by the Senate and made for it by the Interstate Commerce Commission. Following this investigation twenty-three directors and former directors were indicted by a Federal Grand Jury under the Sherman Anti-Trust law; the indictment, presented to Judge Rufus E. Foster in the Criminal Branch of the United States District Court, being conspiracy "to monopolize by unlawful means and methods part of the common carrier business of transporting passengers and property by railroad, by water, and partly by railroad and partly by water from each of the States of New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Vermont, Maine, and New Hampshire to each and every other State in the United States."

The proof of THE WORLD's responsibility for this indictment and the investigation, if proof be needed, is in the statement of George W. Norris, Senator from Nebraska, who introduced the resolution providing for the investigation which was afterward adopted by the Senate.

He said: "The exposure in the New Haven Railroad is due to a tremendous degree to the intelligence and activity which marked the campaign of the NEW YORK WORLD. When I first Introduced my resolution providing for the investigation I read to the Senate a number of articles printed exclusively in the NEW YORK WORLD showing the need for an investigation. I am convinced that the force of these articles, combined with the knowledge of the Senators of the painstaking accuracy of THE WORLD in investigating the facts in such articles before publishing them, had a great deal to do with the passage by the Senate of the resolution.

"Many of the incidents in the history of the railroad which made the investigation by the Interstate Commerce Commission necessary at all were brought to my attention, and I am sure to the attention of the public at large, first through the news columns of the NEW YORK WORLD. I want to give that paper Its full share of the credit for bringing about this investigation and for forcing full publicity at a time when it might have been that the investigation would have been prematurely choked off."

Thus did Mr. Norris summarize THE WORLD'S work in this matter, that work giving the most striking and unusual proof of the great powers and responsibilities of the press. Views of other Senators who wrote their approval to THE WORLD follow:

To the Editor of THE WORLD:

I have read most of THE WORLD articles on the startling exposure of criminal looting of the New Haven Railroad, and I heartily approve of its attitude in relation to this foul blot

in the financial world. THE WORLD is doing a distinct service in exposing and uncompromisingly condemning such methods in the business world as it has shown have been practised in the mismanagement of the New Haven road. THE WORLD has assumed in this, as in many other questions, an attitude of fearlessness, independence, courage, and integrity that is a refreshing and encouraging feature of journalism. It is doing a signal service to the rights of the people and deserves commendation. Again I want to say that I heartily approve of its course." HENRY L. MYERS, Senator from Montana.

To the Editor of THE WORLD:

I am delighted with the fact that the Interstate Commerce Commission investigation of the New Haven financing, and the ultimate near-wrecking of the property, has got right to the bottom of the whole situation. I want to give the credit for this culmination to THE NEW YORK WORLD.

I voted for the resolution as passed by the senate, which, I might say, was advocated by THE NEW YORK WORLD at the time, and I have been in favor of carrying out the terms of that resolution to the letter, which policy THE WORLD has steadfastly advocated.

To the Editor of THE WORLD:

MORRIS SHEPPARD, Senator from Texas.

The investigation of the looting of the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad Company by the Interstate Commerce Commission is proving, in my judgment, of great interest and value to the public. Publicity of the matters which are being 1.sclosed will be powerful to prevent the repetition of the shameful practices which appear to have been pursued in connection with the New Haven's history. THE NEW YORK WORLD is to be commended for its position on this important subject and its efforts to promote the investigation. JOSEPH T. ROBINSON, Senator from Arkansas.

To the Editor of THE WORLD:

I am in favor of the most radical stirring up of the New Haven's affairs so that we may see what has been going on in that property. I am delighted that such a powerful influence as THE NEW YORK WORLD has lent itself to the prosecution of this propaganda. Those of us who stand with the people in this thing think that this kind of an exposé. made in the midst of the efforts of the railroads to get an increase in freight rates, is particularly timely, and we feel like saying to the railroads: "If you had not been robbed so much by your officers and directors you would not need to have your treasuries replenished now by charging the people of the country more for carrying their freight."

J. E. MARTINE, Senator from New Jersey.

THE WORLD's exposure of the business methods of the New Haven road began with the first of the year 1914.

THE WORLD, on January 18 of this year, told how the New Haven road was wrecked by its undertakings in the line of investments outside of its legitimate railway sphere, and of the problem that the late J. P. Morgan picturesquely described as "unscrambling the eggs,' there being 336 eggs, or corporations, owned directly, leased, operated under contract or controlled by the New Haven, and in which $204,000,000 of the resources of the road were invested.

It showed the decline in the price of stock since Mr. Mellen assumed control in 1903, this telling in cold figures the story of the road's financial difficulties. The stock from a high record of 225 in 1903 touched 65% as its low point in 1913.

THE WORLD, on January 19, presented facts showing how huge sums were spent by the New Haven for political aid and the workings of its system to control laws.

THE WORLD, on January 25, showed how the New Haven was looted in trolley deals as part of its extending its transportation tentacles throughout New England.

THE WORLD, on February 1, told "the story of $12.000.000." or how that amount of New Haven Railroad money vanished into thin air. It gave facts and figures of the part played by J. P. Morgan & Co., Oakleigh Thorne, Marsden J. Perry, Charles S. Mellen, and many lesser lights in financing and constructing the New York, Westchester and Boston Raflroad.

THE WORLD, on February 3, was praised by Senator Norris of Nebraska, who as a result of its revelations introduced a resolution to investigate the New Haven company.

THE WORLD, on February 7, was further commended when the Norris resolution passed the Senate without a dissenting voice, Senator Kenyon saying: "I think THE WORLD is entitled to the thanks of the American people for exposing the tale of infamy, the exposé of as corrupt a gang of financial plunderers as ever robbed a bank without requiring the same amount of courage that it does to rob a bank. I want to ask that this editorial of THE WORLD on 'A Chapter of Financial Infamy, which concludes with the significant words, There can be no constitutional peace on a policy of plunder,' be inserted in the Record as a part of my remarks."

THE WORLD, on February 8, further drew aside the veil of secrecy by which the officials of the New Haven sought to effectually conceal the actual purchase by the road in 1910 of the properties and securities of the Metropolitan Steamship Company in utter disregard of the prohibitory provisions of the Sherman Anti-Trust law.

The Interstate Commerce Commission, on April 10, held its first public session in the investigation of the affairs of the New Haven directed by the United States Senate under the Norris resolution.

Charles S. Mellen, former President of the New Haven, took the witness stand on May 19 and placed all responsibility for the New Haven's disastrous plunge into the acquisition of the Westchester road and the waste of millions upon J. P. Morgan. Mr. Morgan was dead when Mr. Mellen testified, transferring the blame on him, and Mr. J. P. Morgan, Jr., then the head of the Morgan house, had deposed Mr. Mellen as President of the road and Mr. Howard Elliott had been placed in the President's chair before the testimony was given. Mr. Mellen wanted it to be understood that Mr. Morgan, Sr., had treated him as he might an office boy, not trusting the President with all the secrets of the road.

J. P. Morgan, Jr., spoke for his late father; characterized as untrue the testimony of Charles S. Mellen before the Interstate Commerce Commission to the effect that J. P. Morgan, Sr., concealed from Mr. Mellen facts regarding the New Haven road which the latter should have known. He took full responsibility upon himself for the change in the road's presidency, by which Mr. Mellen resigned, and said it was untrue that his father in any sense took from Mr. Mellen the management of the road or any part of its affairs.

In its report the Interstate Commerce Commission censured every one, Mr. Mellen included, for the condition of the New Haven's affairs.

Regarding the absorption of the Boston and Maine by the New Haven, Mr. Morgan said his father deemed it advisable for the public benent, since it was recognized by others as well as by the late J. P. Morgan himself that changing economic conditions threatened the commercial position of New England.

The following from THE WORLD of February 1 is a summary of its article showing

HOW WESTCHESTER WAS "LOADED" FOR NEW HAVEN.
J. P. Morgan & Co. notes for money advanced to the Millbrook Company.
Collateral to secure above notes in September, 1907 (net)..

J. P. Morgan & Co. got for interest...

Messrs. Thorne and Perry got for spending the borrowed money a commission of..
This amounted approximately to...

Had they continued throughout the construction of the New York, Westchester
and Boston Railway, estimating that construction at $30,000,000, they would
have been entitled to a commission amounting to...

They were paid cash to cancel the contract.

C. H. Smith received for assignment of the contract to build the New York,
Westchester and Boston Railway in cash

And in stock.

James P. McDonald was paid for services in securing the contract (in cash).
Dick & Robinson received for underwriting bonds, 24 per cent. commission, being
in cash.

They also received a bonus in stock of the par value of..

The Trust Company of America got for services in buying the capital stock (par
value $631,250) of the New York Railroad and Development Co.

The Trust Company of America got for acting as transfer agent of the New York,
Westchester and Boston Railway Company in cash..

Stetson, Jennings & Russell demanded and received as a fee for organizing the Mill-
brook Company (capital stock $1,000).

SOME ONE received for the capital stock of the Portchester Company, all issued and outstanding, 156 shares of a par value of $156,100.

The New York, New Haven and Hartford, up to June 30, 1910, according to their own figures, had expended in cash on the New York, Westchester and Boston for franchises, real estate and construction..

They reported tangible assets (which had not been audited)

On the company's own figures George F. Swain, in his validation report on the assets
and liabilities of the company, estimated the value of the New Haven's invest-
ment in the New York, Westchester and Boston Railway Company as.
The difference between the cash paid by the New York, New Haven and Hart-

ford and the valuation of the New Haven's investment is..
Interstate Commerce Commissioner Prouty in his report on the hearing before him
says that the New Haven reported on June 30, 1912, its investment in the
Westchester had cost it almost......

Its report to the New York Public Service Commission three months later showed
that it had tangible assets in the Westchester of less than.
"Vanished into thin air"

MR. MELLEN'S EXPLANATION.

$11,155,000.00 200,200.00 5 per cent. 7% per cent. 800,000.00

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Mr. Mellen's explanation of the extraordinary cost of this Westchester road given by him in his testimony before the Interstate Commerce Commission is as follows: "I wish I could give a better explanation. I do not know, really. I know that it did cost, and I suppose and believe its cost was represented by the lawsuits, litigation, franchise values, giving away of the capital stock, giving away of rights before we got hold of it, and we simply had to pay by the nose to settle with everybody and everything, and it came pretty near settling me."

Mr. Mellen expressed the belief that the earnings of the road will be very much larger when contemplated connections with the New York subways are completed, but has "no anticipation that anything I can see in the immediate future is going to enable the road to earn the full interest on the full cost to the New Haven road."

He also told the commission:

"I believe the New Haven was working on the right lines for the benefit of the public, the benefit of the stockholders, and the benefit of the whole community.

"I think that if Mr. Morgan had lived the road would have been paying dividends to-day." To return to THE WORLD'S work and the result: The revelations in THE WORLD Concerning the New Haven, showing where the $12,000,000 that Chairman Prouty of the Interstate Commerce Commission sald had vanished, actually went, impressed the Senators from every section. The feeling culminated in the Norris resolution. With slight modifications it passed the Senate without a dissenting voice. As passed it reads:

"Resolved, That the Interstate Commerce Commission be requested to make public the facts In its possession concerning the financial transactions of the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad Company, and as far as it may be necessary to get additional information to thoroughly cover the subject to reopen its examination of the affairs of that company and make a further investigation of its financial transactions with a view of ascertaining:

First-What became of the funds of said company invested in the various enterprises and corporations mentioned in the opinion of the Interstate Commerce Commission, numbered 2384; case numbered 4842, entitled 'The New England investigation in the matter of rates, classifications, regulations, and practices of carriers,' submitted May 20, 1913 and decided June 20, 1913.

"Second-Whether the person or persons authorizing such investment of the funds of said company and the person or persons receiving the benefit thereof are liable to punishment under existing laws.

actions."

Third-Whether, under existing law, such funds so invested can be recovered on behalf of the stockholders of said company. "Fourth-What legislation, if any, is necessary to prevent the recurrence of similar transThe Interstate Commerce investigation was thorough. It was made notable by the full testimony of former President of the New Haven Charles S. Mellen. His testimony was in large part a repetition of the statements concerning the New Haven printed in THE WORLD.

The report of the Interstate Commerce Commission, made July 13 to the Senate, upheld THE WORLD's charges. Although THE WORLD was frank in its characterization of the methods used in exploiting this rich railroad, the commission not only upheld every charge, but was more emphatic than THE WORLD in some respects.

Demands made by THE WORLD for the restitution of millions taken from stockholders and for action against the financiers responsible for the wrecking of the great property were upheld without qualification. The Interstate Commerce Commission thus epitomized the result of its inquiry into New Haven Railroad affairs:

"If these directors, who were faithless to their stewardship, were held responsible in the courts and at the bar of public opinion for their failure to do those things they should have done, the lesson to directors who do not direct would be very salutary.

"Directors should be made individually able to civil and criminal laws for the manner in which they discharge their trust. A corporation can be no better or worse than those who operate it. "It should be just as grave a crime to plunder stockholders or the public through a railroad corporation as it is to personally rob an individual"

The report, in its entirety, is the most sensational and far reaching document of its kind ever put forth by that powerful and plain speaking body. Its principal findings against the management of the road are as follows:

That the directors of the New Haven are liable to the stockholders for from $60.000.000 to $90,000.000 losses as a result of the mismanagement of the financial affairs of that road That the directors should not only be forced to make good the loss resulting from their negligence, but should be held criminally responsible for their acts

That many of the transactions, characterized as violations of the laws of New York, Rhode Island, and Massachusetts, and the Federal Anti-Trust laws, have been reported to the authorities of the States and the Federal Department of Justice.

That the financial transactions undertaken by the New Haven directors were a species of "financial joy-riding."

That the directors were knowingly violating criminal laws and suppressing competition in acquiring the different railroad, steamship and trolley lines.

That the New Haven directors were responsible for the despollment of the Boston and Maine, the depreciation of the road beginning when the "Meilen-Morgan-Rockefeller” régime came into control.

That the Connecticut and Rhode Island trolleys were purchased at prices exorbitantly in excess of their market value.

That the retention by John L. Billard of more than $2,700,000 in the Boston and Maine transaction in which he represented the New Haven was illegal.

That Billard never used a dollar of his own money, and that a suit by the railroad against Billard and those who participated in the transactions should be maintained.

That Oakleigh Thorne falled to account for $1,032,000 of the funds of New Haven Intrusted to him in carrying out the Westchester deal.

That the affairs of the New Haven were dominated by the late J. P Morgan and Mr. Mellen.

That Mellen's dealings with former Police Inspector Byrnes in the Westchester Railroad transaction were "corrupt and unlawful," and that the amount illegally expended should be recoverable.

That hundreds of thousands of dollars of money belonging to stockholders was spent for the purpose of "educating public opinion."

That there was an unwarranted increase of the New Haven liabilities from $93,000,000 in 1903 to $417,000,000 in 1913.

All these strictures by the commission were upon the management of the New Haven system under former President Mellen. The commission called attention to the fact that in its inquiry it was compelled to overcome many obstacles, such as the burning of books, letters and documents, as well as the obstinacy of witnesses who declined to testify until criminal proceedings were begun for their refusal to answer questions. It added:

The result of our research into the financial workings of the former management of the New Haven system has been to disclose one of the most glaring instances of maladministration revealed in all the history of American railroading.

The commission called attention to the fact that it has turned over the evidence concerning local occurrences in New York City to the District-Attorney, and the irregularities practised by the New Haven officials have been laid before the proper authorities in Massachusetts and Rhode Island.

The commission believes it has collected suffelent evidence to warrant prosecutions in the various States in which the New Haven operated for the return of many millions of dollars squandered by the directors belonging to the stockholders in the road.

In touching upon the Westchester deal, which resulted in an expenditure of $36.434,173 for a road but eighteen miles long and which is being operated at an annual loss of $1,250,000, the commission said:

WESTCHESTER PURCHASE UP TO DIRECTORS ALONE.

The blame for the Westchester purchase rests squarely upon the directors of the New Haven road; some are guilty for acts committed; others, the greater number. for their failure to act. They are alike culpable and responsible to the stockholders.

The purchase of the Rhode Island trolleys was characterized by the commission as "another instance of millions wasted in acquiring properties that bring in an annual deficit instead of a surplus, and constitute a liability instead of an asset in the New Haven system."

The transaction between John L. Billard, the Connecticut coal dealer, and the New Haven, whereby Billard reaped a profit of $2,700,000 in the sale of the Boston and Maine to the New Haven, was called a "fraud upon the stockholders" by the commission.

The commission said that all the evidence shows that Billard acted at all times for the New Haven road, and that he never paid a dollar for his stock in Boston and Maine. The commission said the Billard Company and its assets belonged to and were the property of the New Haven road. The practice of employing "dummy" directors was bitterly denounced. The report pointed out that some one high in the counsels of the New Haven "had an obsession upon the subject of the utility of such sham methods."

As the next step in the 1914 history of the railroad, the New Haven directors rejected an agreement of modified dissolution made with the Government. They received in return a suit for dis. solution. Suit was filed in the United States District Court in New York July 24 for the dissolution of the New Haven community of railroad, steamship and trolley lines in New England. The petition asked action by the court under the Sherman Anti-Trust law.

Suit was instituted by direction of President Wilson following a Cabinet meeting.

The directors of the railroad decided to yield to the Government. The meeting of the board held in New York August 12 ratified an arrangement accepted by the Attorney-General for a peaceful dissolution of the properties. Thus the civil suit for the breaking up of the system was not

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